By Ed Boitano

The first thing you notice is the fragrance; where the intoxicating scent of the tiare flower announces to your senses that you are in a magical place, overflowing with tropical vegetation and soothing trade winds. It is the same perfume that the English seamen on the HMS Bounty first encountered; but they came not for flowers, but for breadfruit, intended as a new food staple for their African slaves in the West Indies. But that was another time and another emotional place. Today, Papeete, located on Tahiti Nui (‘Big’), is Tahiti’s vibrant capital city and gateway to her islands. Roughly one-half of all of the Tahitian islands’ population live in this city. Papeete bustles with world-class resorts, restaurants, nightclubs and endless shopping.

FIRST STOP: The Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands

The Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands (‘Te Fare Manah’) is located 10 miles south of Papeete and offers a concise overview of Tahiti and the other 118 islands of French Polynesia. The museum is divided into four sections: geography and natural history; pre-European culture; the effects of colonization; and the natural wonders of the archipelago. In less than two-hours you will become an expert in all things French Polynesia. Displays are in English and French.

Like many of the Pacific Islands, it’s a widely accepted theory that around three to four thousand years ago, there was a great migration from southeast Asia which led to the settlement of many Polynesian islands.

Feats of Courage

The ingenious Polynesian explorers were ultra-sophisticated sailors, with a highly complex navigational system based on the observation of the stars, ocean swells and flight patterns of birds. Their primary vessel was a 50 to 60 feet long canoe, consisting of two hulls, connected by lashed crossbeams. A precursor to the modern catamaran, the sails were made of matting drove and long steering paddles enabled the mariners to keep it sailing on course. The canoes could accommodate roughly two dozen people, food supplies, livestock of pigs and poi dogs, and planting materials, essential for the long expeditions and the eventual founding of new island colonies. Like athletes, they would go into vigorous training prior to voyages, even conditioning their bodies to deal with less food and water. The navigational voyages — voyages of spectacular feats of courage, strength and skill — are still widely admired today. Numerous canoeist groups have attempt to emulate the Polynesian voyages; but with the backup of small motors, charts and compasses and food items, they certainly do not qualify as a voyage into the unknown.

The European Conquest

During the 1500s, several European explorers sighted various Tahitian islands, but it was not upon Englishman Samuel Wallis’ arrival in 1767 that Tahiti, Moorea, and MaiaoIti were christened the Society Islands, named for the Royal Society, which had sponsored the expedition under Capt. James Cook.

This was followed by landings of French naval expeditions in 1800s along with further English ships. Packed with rugged whalers and strict Protestant English missionaries, an attempt was made to strip Tahiti of much of its culture, including even the traditional use of the canoe. Tahitians soon faced harsh biblical justice of prison, banishment and even death by the new European colonizers.

The British and French conquests provoked a gold rush fever between both nations for control of the islands, which concluded when King Pōmare V of the Pōmare Dynasty, who had ruled Tahiti until 1880, was persuaded to abdicate his throne in return for a French pension and two honorary titles, making him the last Tahitian monarch. The body of his mother, Aimata Pōmare IV Vahine-o-Punuateraʻitua (otherwise known as Aimata; ‘eye-eater,’ a custom of the ruler to eat the eye of the defeated foe) were removed and buried in the nearby Royal Mausoleum.

The earlier French-Tahitian War (1844-1847) set the stage for Tahiti and most of her dependencies ceded to France; by 1958, all the Islands of Tahiti were reconstituted as a French Overseas Territory and renamed French Polynesia.

A large harbor was built in Papeete, an international airport was constructed in Faa’a, and a huge film crew descended onto the islands to film the 1962 movie, Mutiny on the Bounty. These rapid changes quickly brought French Polynesia into the modern age. In 1977, the French government granted autonomy to French Polynesia; then in 2004, it became an official Overseas Country of the French Republic, with all its people receiving the full rights of French citizenship.

Louis-Antoine de Bougainville & the Noble Savage

But it was Louis-Antoine de Bougainville, the first French naval explorer to have circled the world (1766-69), who earlier created a worldwide sensation when publishing his travel log under the title, A Voyage Around the World. The book describes Tahiti as an earthly paradise where the noble savage lives in blissful innocence with one another, influencing the utopian thoughts of poets, novelists and philosophers. The Bougainvillea Flower stems from his family name.

But were the islanders really an example of innocence and bliss? Human sacrifices were common, and the trade of iron nails with European conquerors — which Tahitians conformed into fishing hooks that would not break as opposed to the previous use of delicate seashells — were returned for water, food and sexual favors. Imagine the crusty English sailor, complete with rickets, scurvy wounds, broken smiles and missing teeth at the average height of 5 ft. 5 inches tall encountering statuesque 6th ft. tall Tahitian people born into a perfect gene pool. With the reduction of nails, some captains actually expressed concern that their vessels would collapses. And along with stealing (often eating) strange animals and general theft of supplies, the Tahitians demonstrated certain aspects of their culture that was not unfamiliar to humankind.

Paul Gauguin in Tahiti

In 1891, Post-Impressionist French painter Paul Gauguin also relocated to Papeete. Middle aged at 43-years-old, he was disappointed to find that Tahiti’s mythical paradise and primitive life had already changed due to English and French colonization. To distance himself from ‘civilization’ he moved to the far west side of the island, ultimately completing 516 paintings, which included his oil on canvas: Two Tahitian Women, recently purchased at $300m (£197m), making it the most expensive work of art ever sold.

A Personalized Exploration

Arahurahu Marae, Tahiti Nui’s only completely reconstructed marae, is an open-air place of worship and ceremony. The sacred temple is constructed of tiers of lave stones where the Tahitian elite made sacrifices. Yes, sometimes even human. Only royalty is permitted to be inside a marae, even a rebuilt one, while commoners risk death by entering. My guide informed me that he had never once stepped into a marae. I couldn’t resist, and carefully climbed over the lava bricks. Somehow, I managed to survive.

Our jeep commenced deep into the mountainous valley of Papenoo; a true Garden of Eden with fertile displays of ginger, vanilla, taro, noni and breadfruit. The medicinal and cosmetic benefits of the pants and flowers are well utilized by the Tahitians, renowned for their health, physical beauty and spiritual serenity.

For this final tour, my guide was an Euro-Tahitian anthropologist, who has lived in Tahiti Nui his entire adult life. While charging through the thick forested terrain in our jeep, he explained the intricacies of Tahitian culture, where the past meets the present, and that the Gallic texture of today is often only evident on the surface. The French police keep the islands safe but will never enter a home when there’s a family dispute or even violence. Often times when a local commits an egregious crime, justice is handled the tribal way, where the offender might ‘accidentally’ fall from the top of a mountain or ‘mysteriously’ drown while fishing.

When a Tahitian woman reaches the age to give childbirth, she is encouraged to take as many lovers as she chooses. When an infant is born, the child is given to a group of older women, often aunts (slang, motu mamas) to be raised by the community in wide open mountain valleys. From my guide’s studies, he believes that Tahiti and Polynesia illustrate the most tolerant and sophisticated child rearing practices in the world; a world where the youth find meaning through relationships with the family, community, spatial terrain, ancestral spirits and God.

Māhū: French Polynesia’s Esteemed Third Gender People

A person referred to as a Māhū is a male born child, raised as a girl. When a young boy illustrates what is considered feminine qualities such as cooking, cleaning and sewing as opposed to the assumed male characteristics of hunting, fishing or going to war, he is simply raised alongside girls. There are no negative ramifications on being a Māhū, and the people are considered a culture-bound transsexuality treated with great respect. Māhūs traditionally play key social and spiritual roles, as guardians of cultural rituals and dances, or providers of care for children and elders. Many continue as Māhūs throughout their adult life, and once enjoyed the trusted status of servants to the royalty. The earliest known written reference to Māhū people was in 1789, when Captain Bligh of the Bounty wrote in his logbook about “people very common in Otaheitie called Mahoo… who although I was certain was a man, had great marks of effeminacy about him. They weren’t just tolerated, but embraced…”

“Māhūs have this other sense that men or women don’t have,” said Swiss-Guinean photographer NamsaLeuba, whose images from French Polynesia appeared at a recent exhibition in London. “It is well known that they have something special.”

My guide continued with an anecdote about a friend who was the father of three Māhū children. Though the man was proud of his offspring, he laughingly complained that he had no one to go fishing and hunting with. Some adult Māhūs become fathers — and this is the very essence of Tahiti, where virtually everything is embraced with an easy, no sweat mentality.

Marché de Papeete

Spread over an entire city, the two-story Marché de Papeete has occupied the same location in the commercial center since 1869. It is nothing less than an institution and a must-see for every visitor. The first-floor features fruit, flowers and souvenirs to fresh seafood, produce and takeaway meals. I found that hand-painted pareus (sarongs) — worn by women and men alike — make an inexpensive gift to friends. The pearl typifies Tahiti — and also its leading export — and you’ll find large retailers selling a variety of Tahitian pearls, ranging from inexpensive to the opposite. On the market’s second floor, I made the bold decision not to dive into the water in search of a pearl for my bride’s wedding ring and managed to purchase one, a perfect black one with ease, despite my clumsy bargaining power.

Most importantly, Marché de Papeete is the ideal venue to kick back with a tropical smoothie, and watch merchants and local shoppers laugh, chat and talk story. There is no better place to enjoy the pulse of Tahitian city life.

MORE ON PEARLS

Rangiroa, located approximately one hour north of Tahiti Nui, is the world’s second largest atoll, i.e., a submerged volcano with only the motu (sandbank) at the water’s surface. Long considered the epidemy of an island paradise, scuba diving and pearl farming is Rangiroa most popular activity, with 240 small islets protecting the atoll’s infinitely deep lagoon.

The Robert Wan Pearl Museum, the world’s only museum dedicated exclusively to pearls, is a short stroll from the Marché de Papeete. Mr. Wan has devoted 51 years of his life to exploring the role of the pearl in art, history, and literature, and his exhibits reveal pearl farming techniques and why they are associated with religious rites and status symbols.

The museum also showcases the largest cultured Tahitian pearl in existence; the Robert WAN, which measures almost an inch in diameter. A guide informed me that the pearl is the world’s only gem born from a living being.

Yes, Tahiti Nui has much to offer, but locals also proudly tout the outlying, less-populated islands for their beauty and tranquility. Like southeast Alaska, exploring the other Tahitian islands is best accomplished by booking an excursion on a cruise ship. You get to see more islands and it’s less expensive.

Bora Bora – The Romantic Island

As my helicopter soared over Bora Bora’s alluring blue lagoons and tropical slopes, my pilot said it was only the second time he had maned a ‘copter… that is, the second time today. After our nervous laughter subsided, Mount Otemanu soon loomed in the distance, and it became clear why this enchanting island is synonymous with romance. Bora Bora is ideal for a bike ride around the island, a leisurely hike, or to simply disappear by a refreshing lagoon. The history buff will enjoy seeing remnants of cannons manned by American servicemen during World War II. Until 1942, there were no roads and no vehicles on Bora Bora. Tourism, of course, is theme of the today with scores of tasteful, over-the-water bungalows dotting the seascape.

Moorea – The Magical Island

Moorea is a profound example of a south seas island paradise, and it comes as no surprise that it is a favorite of many Tahitians. The beauty of the island, with its jagged green mountains and palm-draped beaches, is astounding. James Michener called it Bali Hai, Herman Melville based his novel Omoo on it, and Captain Cook spoke passionately of its landscapes and the attractiveness of the people. Moorea is unique among the Tahitian Islands in having magnificent expanses of both white and black beaches, while in most islands it is the pristine lagoons that illustrates much of their ethereal characteristics. High in Moorea’s interior mountains, Polynesian royalty practiced their archery and constructed maraes hidden in rainforests. On a hilltop lookout between shark-tooth Mount Rotui and towering Mount Tohivea, there’s a once-in-a-lifetime view once reserved only for the gods.

Raiatea – The Sacred Island

Raiatea was the cultural, religious and royal heart of Polynesia — the birthplace of the gods. The second largest Tahitian isle, and where entire clans canoed off to find new homes on other islands. Today, you can paddle around Faaroa Bay and discover why the island was a favorite of Captain Cook.

Taha’a – The Vanilla Island

Taha’a offers a glimpse of the traditional tranquil life of Tahitians. The flower-shaped island is surrounded by tiny motus, and in its fertile valleys, farmers grow watermelon and vanilla — first cultivated in Mexico, but, for me, with a more delicious flavor.

The Food of Tahiti

Indigenous Tahitian cuisine uses what’s available from the land and the sea, and the word, ‘fresh’ is essential. The taro root (more flavorful than the Hawaiian version), breadfruit, sweet potatoes, and plantains offer typical starch fare. Mangoes, bananas, watermelon, pineapple, papaya, guava, soursop and pummelo are in abundance. From the lagoons come parrotfish, perch, and mullet; from the open sea, fresh tuna, bonito, wahoo, scad and mahi mahi. Coconut milk and vanilla are incorporated into many of the dishes. With Poisson Cru, a French hybrid of tuna cured in lime juice with chopped green onions, cucumbers and tomatoes; and Fafa, a chicken stew with taro leaves; my taste buds were seduced with remarkable new flavors.

Yet, as of today, McDonald’s has even made their presence felt with three franchises in Papeete. McBaguette, anyone? But, thankfully, Tahitian snack bars and food trucks (les roulettes) still reign supreme.

Tahiti & Her Islands: The C-19 Pandemic

Upon check-in at the airport, your airline will require proof of a negative COVID-19 test. The government of French Polynesia accepts an Antigen Test administered withing 48 hours of departure, or an “RT-PCR” Test administered within 72 hours of your international departure.

Today, Tahiti & Her Islands remains the definition of an enchanting island paradise, with the warmth and openness of its people the very essence of its charm and beauty.

The post The Secrets of Tahiti and Her Islands appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The drive in from the Falls is along the beautiful Niagara Parkway. Winston Churchill described the Parkway as “the prettiest Sunday afternoon drive in the world”. He was in town in 1943 after attending the Quebec Conference when the Allies were planning the D-Day landings in France almost exactly 75 years ago!  The Parkway winds along the edge of the Niagara River and forms a welcoming tree-lined entrance to one of the prettiest small towns in all of Canada. On the way you pass the famous monument at Queenston Heights that honours the death of our first national hero, Sir Isaac Brock.  The general who helped save Upper Canada in the early days of the War of 1812 but died on this hill in October 1812 during the Battle of Queenston Heights.

One of the biggest attracters for our nearly 3 million tourists to this small town of just 18,000, are its wineries. Niagara-on-the-Lake has become famous for the wines from its 40 local wineries. Many have excellent restaurants where they pair their fine wines with regional cuisine. The unique climate of the Niagara Region lends itself to winemaking and it is surprising that it is on the same latitude as southern France. The Niagara region is an area which benefits from a unique and moderate micro-climate and mineral-rich soils, making for successful world-class vintages.

This is my hometown. As a way of giving back over the past few years, I have joined a number of town committees as a volunteer. One was the committee that won many National and International awards for the town in a worldwide municipal contest. The Communities in Bloom award in 2017 was on the international stage and Niagara-on-the-Lake won the prestigious gold award over towns its size in the U.S., Ireland, Croatia and many other countries. The Communities in Bloom program is so much more than flowers. Each competing community is judged on greening through environmental, as well as natural heritage conservation and horticultural actions by citizens and municipalities.  The wonderful flower displays, and the magnificent hanging baskets downtown draw the attention and admiration of millions of visitors in the spring and summer.

In Niagara-on-the-Lake, I love saying that “history walks beside you”. This was one of the first towns settled in Ontario and was declared the capital of Upper Canada in 1792. It was first settled by United Empire Loyalists. People who were loyal to the British crown and who fled the US after the American revolution. In fact, the US border is nearby, just offshore in the middle of the Niagara River. This historic town boasts a number of National Historic sites and wonderfully restored homes in old town.

It’s hard to understand the deep heritage of this town without knowing how it suffered during the War of 1812. The US declared war on Britain in June of 1812 and prepared to attack its closest colony, Canada. The first major attack was at Queenston Heights, but the British were victorious despite the death of General Brock.  By 1813 the Americans forces were better trained and attacked Niagara in what is known as the Battle of Fort George. They were successful with overwhelming forces and the town was then occupied by the American militia for over 6 months. After the American occupation of Niagara, desertion and disease had reduced the American soldiers’ numbers and by December 1813 they decided to withdraw from Canada to Fort Niagara across the river. But before they left, they (and some Canadian traitors) burned and destroyed the whole town during a winter snowstorm. Virtually every home was put to the torch before being reclaimed by the British. In anger, the British troops retaliated and within 3 months had burned the towns of Lewiston and Buffalo across the river in New York State thus laying waste to the whole Niagara Peninsula.

In the years after the war, the town was rebuilt in that beautiful Regency/Neo-Classic style… also known in the US as Federalist. These magnificent 200-year-old homes still stand in all their restored beauty in the quiet tree lined streets of old town today. Niagara-on-the-Lake became one of the first towns in Ontario to have a recognized National Historic District and the old town district offers the largest inventory of heritage buildings in Canada constructed between 1817 and 1850.

Niagara-on-the-Lake has a lot of natural beauty because it is surrounded on one side by Lake Ontario, with its many moods, and on the other by the mighty Niagara River. The beautiful water views add so much to the charm of our town and help attract nearly 3 million people during tourist season. Many flock to our shoreline and the views of Toronto 32 miles across the lake.

Another interesting fact about Niagara-on-the-Lake is that it is the point for marathon swimmers to start when swimming across the lake to Toronto. In the early 1950s, marathon swimming was a very popular sport. One of the best of the marathoners was young Marilyn Bell and in 1954 she became the first to swim the lake from Niagara to the Toronto shoreline at the age of only 16. It took her 24 hours and captured the imagination of all Canadians.  It seems every year more swimmers attempt this grueling 32-mile swim route. There is a plaque in Queens Royal Park honoring these successful swimmers and I’m proud to say my son’s name is on the plaque. I accompanied him (in the luxury of a boat) on his successful 19-hour swim in 2008.

There are seven National Historic sites in our small town protected and maintained by Parks Canada. The most popular with visitors is Fort George. The fort was built around 1800 but was destroyed during the War of 1812. In May of 1813 it was attacked and burned by the Americans. Following the attack and the destruction by “hot shot’ from cannons at Fort Niagara, the town was occupied by American forces. Fort George was carefully restored in the 1930’s based on accurate drawings that still existed in England.  Today it welcomes as many as 100,000 visitors from all over the world and costumed interpreters teach tourists and students alike about the impact of the War of 1812. Our nearby houses shudder with the sounds of cannon fire during reenactments in the summer.

Culture, along with heritage, thrive in this town. For instance, the successful Shaw Festival theater started in the 1960’s and now the Shaw is considered a world class theater destination. In the past 50 years, this theater that has brought with it a cultural rebirth to the town.  Now, along with the Shaw we have a number of summer music festivals, including classical music presented by Music Niagara and the annual Jazz Festival which brings music to town parks and wineries.

Niagara-on-the-Lake is a “must visit,” and a wonderful gem on the shores of Lake Ontario.

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Alice’s Table & 1-800-Flowers

Alice’s Table is the ultimate way to bring joy to yourself and keep it going for several days. Flowers are delivered to your door, and then simply zoom in and listen to Alice who is a bubbly fun instructor who will tell you how to arrange your flowers and create masterpieces. Not only is it fun, but über relaxing as when you concentrate on something artistic, it is a great way to forget everything and get into the “flow”.

I have done this class several times, and created beautiful displays with farm fresh flowers that last for days. Also, you learn secrets on how to keep your flowers and displays lasting. Bringing nature, especially beautiful flowers brings joy to your home. Do it yourself or order it for a friend, its a great gift for yourself or someone you love.

Stick Together

Stuck at home, well stick together and have as much as fun as possible. The perfect family activity for adults and kids of all ages. Relaxing for adults and an extra bonus it provides a great way to tune those fine motor skills for little ones. Also, if you have kids that sitting is not a skill they use often, this one might tempt them to stay focused.

Each StickTogether kit comes with a coded poster grid, a color key, colored stickers and instructions / suggestions for making your StickTogether experience a success. They also include extra stickers. The StickTogether mosaic puzzle kits come in two sizes:

• Standard Format 40” x 36” poster (3,996 stickers)
• Large Format 60” x 36” poster (7,040 stickers)

Blue Lotus Chai

This is a wonderful way to start your day, and I drink this tea daily. It’s special because it is the fancy Chai tea all ground together. Packed with black tea and natural spices like ground cloves and nutmeg. Blue Lotus Chai is a delicious, pure, authentic spiced tea that is easy and quick to prepare. It comes in a variety of flavours, and I have tried them all and find them equally tasty.

ChiUniverse Yoga Mats

Miss your regular yoga class? Hard to concentrate with your little one by your side? ChiUniverse Yoga mats came up with the answer to make a little meditation possible. These fun yoga mats have a creative element to them with pictures that guide you through the poses.

The mat comes in Kid and Tween/Teen/Adult sizes. Inside every mat is a double sided how-to game poster of 200 poses. There is a worldwide downloadable app, free kids videos online, and a card game deck as an alternative to screen time. It is a comprehensive learning program, and the symbol system is a Universal Language.

LEGO

Remarkably relaxing Lego is perfect for adults too, as one is required to focus on the task at hand. Lego has released phenomenal new items such as the LEGO ART series. Additionally, they have the sets that allow you to travel the world without leaving your house. The sets are easy for those who have a sense for building, otherwise it is best to have your kids do it with you- as they are usually more savvy and terrrific builders who can help guide you!!!

BeeSpa Hand + Foot Cream

If you never have a chance to sit you are in great company. BeeSpa Hand + Foot Cream is a wonderful product to use. I suggest you get a large container, as once you use it, you will use it all the time. Not only will it help your skin absorb the effects of your massage, but it will help protect your skin with 16% of the formula made with beeswax that helps fight against viruses and bacteria. Also solves your dry, cracked hands and feet from all those outdoor workouts and typing away on your keyboard.

SpectraSpray

Now more than ever vitamins matter to stay healthy and safe. A practical solution that is also light weight is SpectraSpray. They also offer a practical solution with their SpectraSpray Travel Wellness Kit if you are traveling or driving too.

The travel-sized kit includes B12, Sleep Support and an Immune Support, that’s complete with Vitamin C, Vitamin D, Zinc and Lysine.

Firefly’s Ready Go Power Toothbrush

It might sound silly, but daily tasks that you have to remind your little ones to do can be stressful. This is a fun way to get your kids to brush, and tick off one item that stressed you out off the do to list.

Firefly’s Ready Go Power Toothbrush is a great way to maintain good oral hygiene as well as teach them the dentist-recommended time for proper cleaning of two minutes. Another way to make it fun is to have your child choose their favorite flavor or favorite character with Firefly’s Natural Anticavity Fluoride Toothpaste. It even comes with a mystery prize!

Alina Cosmetics

If you have been spending time mixing and matching and creating your own special face care routine, then try out Alina Cosmetics oils. This is for the savvy person who likes to create their own way to take care of their skin. The oils are unscented so if you like one with a scent, it is best to also include your own fragrance to the mix.

Please join my mailing list for the latest updates on great ways to take care of yourself, fun options for kids and upbeat ways to keep yourself happy, entertained and relaxed.

The post Relax, Rejuvenate and Refresh – 9 Ways to Do It appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The Cordillera Region might be a good driving distance away from our home in Metro Manila but if we wanted to escape the heat in the lowlands and enjoy mountain scenery the Cordilleras are right there on top of our list. The most famous attraction in the region is its rice terraces, particularly those in the province of Ifugao.

These terraces were carved out of the mountainsides using primitive tools and have been in constant use for 2,000 years. (Recently, researchers in the Philippines have suggested they might have been constructed less than 1,000 years ago but that doesn’t diminish our appreciation for them). Five of these terrace clusters have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites namely the Batad and Bangaan Terraces in Banaue town, the Nagacadan Terraces in Kiangan and the terrace clusters in Hungduan and Mayoyao towns.

These terrace clusters span several mountains and valleys, particularly in Hungduan and Mayoyao. Going to most of them is an adventure in itself, mainly due to the nature of the roads in this part of the country, although the road networks have been improving in recent years. Probably the most gorgeous of these rice terraces is the amphitheater-like cluster at the village of Batad. To get there we had to survive a bumpy jeep ride and trek for almost an hour through hilly terrain. It was another 3 hours of hiking along the terraces to see them up-close while gingerly balancing ourselves on top of the narrow terrace walls that serve as pathways along the edges of the paddies. One mistake would have sent us tumbling 10 feet down into the next rice paddy below.

Overshadowed by the Ifugao rice terraces are more terraces in the town of Bontoc and its surrounding villages in the Mountain Province including the Maligcong and Bay-yo Terraces. And beyond that are even more rice terraces in the provinces of Kalinga, Apayao, Abra and Nueva Vizcaya, some of which have remained well under the tourist radar due to their remoteness and relative inaccessibility.

Due to its cool climate the Cordillera Region is a major supplier of vegetables and flowers to the rest of the country. Vegetables and fruits that are normally cultivated in temperate countries thrive here. Benguet province in particular is a major source. A flower farm in Atok town has been making the rounds in travel blogs the past couple of years. Intrigued by its flower varieties that are rarely found elsewhere in the country, we finally decided to pay a visit to the Northern Blossom Flower Farm earlier this year. The farm is built on terraced fields on the side of a mountain and the scenes of the colorful flower fields with the Cordillera mountains in the background are simply stunning.

Baguio City is the biggest municipality in the Cordillera Region and was our home from 1998 to 2004. First established as a hill station by American colonizers in 1900, Baguio has become urbanized and has grown into a major commercial and educational hub in the region. It still attracts several tourists especially during February when a colorful month-long festival, the Panagbenga, is held as a tribute to the city’s flowers.

Missing its cool climate and the fine scent of pine trees, we visit Baguio from time to time. Dining in its many cozy establishments is already reason enough for us to stay in this city. Shopping for pasalubongs – a Filipino term for our tradition of buying gifts for friends and love ones whenever we travel – is a favorite activity here. We usually end up bringing home Benguet barako coffee (an Arabica variety), Kalinga coffee, strawberries, peanut brittle and native handicrafts.

Baguio also happens to be a sanctuary for artists with its natural environment and rich cultural heritage acting as creative magnets. Prominent Filipino artists have moved into the area including National Artist Ben Cabrera whose BenCab Museum in nearby Tuba town houses his own works as well as other artists’ plus a collection of indigenous crafts and artifacts. Another art gallery may be found in Tam-awan Village which also features native Ifugao and Kalinga huts. During our last foray into the region we visited Winaca Eco Cultural Village in nearby Tublay town for a glimpse of its Bontoc, Sagada and Ifugao huts and a taste of its marvelous coffee.

We, however, miss the small-town charm of Baguio before it became highly urbanized in the late 1990s. Old-timers used to say that if we wanted to see Baguio in the 1970s we should go instead to the town of Sagada in the Mountain Province. Which is exactly what we did a few years ago. Sagada, however, has several unique attractions that you won’t find in Baguio at any time in its history.

This town has numerous karst-cliffs on pine-covered hills, limestone caves with stunning underground rock formations, gorgeous rice terraces, thundering waterfalls and hill peaks with amazing panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Of particular interest here are its hanging coffins – namely the Sugong Hanging Coffins and those in Echo Valley. Traditional practice is to place mummified remains either in the town’s surrounding cliffs or in caves, unburied. We often wonder how the locals managed to get the coffins tucked away high up in those karst cliffs. An alternative is to lay the remains in coffins in burial caves such as Sumaguing Cave where they can still be viewed today.

But perhaps the most popular spot in Sagada is the Kiltepan Viewpoint from where a golden sunrise may be viewed amidst the clouds and mountain peaks. A popular local movie featuring this spot made it even more famous. We had looked forward to going to Kiltepan and woke up at 4AM for this purpose but the van driver whom we contacted to bring us there failed to show up.  Disappointing but there were just too many attractions in town and several cozy cafes and restaurants to try out to lose sleep over this setback.

We’ll probably never tire of going back to the Cordillera Region anytime soon. It’s always a gratifying alternative whenever we want a diversion from the usual plethora of sunny beaches and islands in the Philippines. And who knows? It’s a pleasant option for retirement.

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As I entered Hotel d’Angleterre on the regal Kongens Nytorv Square in Copenhagen, I remember thinking, “Did I just time-travel into Floral Narnia?” I have been to some pretty snazzy hotels with bedecked public spaces, showing off some pretty amazing floral arrangements (the Corinthia Hotel, London, comes to mind, where By Appointment Only Design — with a boutique on-premises — transforms Mother Nature’s opulent flora into va-va-va-voom visions), but the fleurs in the d’Angleterre’s lobby were in a class by themselves. It’s not as if the arrangements walk up to you and clobber you over the head with their gorgeousness; rather, it’s their simple, quiet sophistication that is so striking. The blossoms dramatically enhance and refreshingly transform the surroundings: They glow against the muted, neutral, grayish and aubergine palette of the mohair furnishings and marble-clad foyer and lobby. Sky-blue pink bursts of color from voluptuous peonies are combined with soft-blush tones of more exotic buds, both accented by staccato notes of the intense lavender of lisianthus. Stunning.

I learned later that the hotel (like the Corinthia) has its own in-house design operation, Creations Studio, with a jewel-box boutique in the hotel, where it vends exquisite floral arrangements as well as carefully curated merchandise (opulent coffee table books, flower boxes, cashmere throws, table knickknacks, and so on).  Creations Studio is also the go-to design source for the many weddings and corporate events held at this pillar of old-world Copenhagen.

Indeed, the hotel has noteworthy, weighty history, assuring its proper place as a bastion of Denmark’s formidable landscape. Its pedigree is one of amour, which only adds to the glamour and mystique of the property. In the middle of the 1700s, Jean Marchal, a French servant, and Maria Coppy, the daughter of the Danish royal family’s chef, were both pierced by Cupid’s arrows. She was a veritable magician in the kitchen and he was a maître of the required skills to not merely satisfy, but to please, the aristocracy. This match-made-in-Copenhagen forms the roots of the storied d’Angleterre. The couple opened a restaurant and later moved that eatery to the Kongens Nytorv (King’s New Square) and then transformed it into an auberge. It took on its official name some 30 years later, in 1787, and now, 260 years after that, the illustrious hotel is still home to royalty, A-listers, and civilians with discerning palates and an eye for tasteful living.

Which brings us to Marchal, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant. I was in transit for merely one day, but had time to stroll the square and settle in for a divine luncheon at Marchal. The city’s square at the doorstep of the hotel had been under renovation for a full 20 years (!) and the day I was there, it was being prepped for the following day’s official celebration marking the completion of this never-ending urban project.

It is an imperial plaza, newly planted with double rows of 80 linden trees; it features freshly cobbled walkways and a new Krinsen (circle) Garden. There is an equestrian statue of King Christian V, who ruled Denmark when the platz was created. Slightly asymmetric, it is the central meeting point for le tout Copenhagen. Warm-weather exhibits, wintertime ice-skating, and countless events are staged here, as it is truly the focal point of the metropolis. Other significant edifices dot its perimeter — the Royal Danish Theater, the Charlottenborg Palace (now the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts), the Thott Palace (now the French Embassy), and the Magasin du Nord (a major department store).

Marchal features a warm and welcoming dining room, with an open, spic-and-span kitchen and a massive wall, housing the wine cellar, behind glass. There is a glassed-in terrace, as well, and in summertime, a sidewalk café.  Inside, the delicate mauve and lavender of the velvet- and damask-swathed banquettes and dining chairs provide a quiet landscape, appointed with burnished wood and gleaming marble. But the soothing interior design is not the key draw; that is reserved for the fare from Executive Chef Andrea Bagh, who formerly worked at Kong Hans Kælder, another renowned Copenhagen restaurant. Chef Bagh has invigorated a menu with rich echoes of classic French, new-age Danish, and worldly flavors, and has rightly earned a Michelin star not too far into his reign.

There is an abundance of oysters and  caviar on the menu, if that is your fancy — Gillardeau oysters with wasabi, finger lime, and ginger oil; succulent perle blanche oysters “Bloody Mary” with piment juice, celery, and Tabasco.  As for the caviar, there are at least five different kinds, served graciously with all the expected accoutrements, including the de rigueur blinis and egg whites and yokes; and, my favorite — heavenly, melt-in-your-mouth sturgeon.

The menu is rife with seafood, from Norwegian scallops, to baked sole, to grilled lobster (with pumpkin and saffron).  The chef’s signature turbot and canard are both served for two and are skillfully and artistically plated and presented — and it is worth noting, the restaurant uses one of my all-time favorite china patterns, Bernardaud’s Ecume, in custom-crafted, burnished gold and deep plum, as well as in the traditional snow-white.

Desserts include an assortment of hard-to-find cheeses; panna cotta with bergamot and citrus salads; a lusciously rich chocolate mousse with caramel, candied almonds, and Calvados ice cream. Pastry chef Nicoline Julie Hjort Jørgensen’s offering of post-prandial miniardises is toothsome and tempting. Save a little room.

Hote d’Angelterre, Kongens Nytorv 34, Copenhagen, K 1050, Denmark

NOTE: Marchal serves a delightful and tasty afternoon tea and will also be offering a festive, six-course holiday meal, starting November 18 through December 26.

© Ruth J. Katz 2019  All Rights Reserved

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