England's Lake
District:
Where Peter Rabbit, Beatrix Potter
And Literary History Converge
Story by Fyllis Hockman
hat do William Wordsworth, William Yeats and Jemima Puddle-Duck have
in common? Well, they all lived in and around the fairy-tale villages
of England's Lake District, but only one of them actually is a fairy
tale. And possibly the most famous of the three at least among
the under-10 set. Ms. Puddle-Duck, along with her good friends and neighbors,
Peter Rabbit, Samuel Whiskers and Pickles among many others, were brought
to life by Beatrix Potter, another famous resident of the Lake District
and the one most responsible for maintaining the environmental
integrity of the area since her death in 1943 when she donated 14 properties
to the National Trust thereby preserving much of the land that now comprises
the Lake District National Park.
Okay, is there anyone who actually made it through childhood
without at least a cursory introduction to Peter Rabbit, Flopsy and
Mopsy and that mean old farmer McGregor? Well, this is where they lived
until Beatrix caught them and immortalized them forever in little 5"
by 4"-sized books.
Her books sold more than any other children's stories
ever although I suspect Pat the Bunny, Peter's more tactile cousin,
has since given him a run for his money
So first, something about that Lake District which Beatrix
Potter so loved. The countryside is so tantalizingly green the color
needs a new more enchanting name.
Photo courtesy: Victor Block
Quintessentially English replete with requisite sheep,
rolling hedgerows, low slung stone walls criss-crossing the landscape
into checkerboard squares, slate-roofed stone houses, and hot pink,
orange-gold and deep purple explosions of color so vibrant as to rival
the most brightly lit of neon Nikes so popular today. And by contrast,
in the middle of the district, craggy mountainous regions lend an even
more dramatic flair. And, oh yes, then there are the lakes 16 of
them; ergo, the District's name.
Photo courtesy: Victor Block
A world so clichely picturesque, with OMG moments at
every turn, which serves to explain the many artists who flocked here
to replicate its beauty on canvas. An entire expanse of visual wonderment
extending for miles in every direction that makes scenic overlook signs
ridiculously redundant. All of which is a walker's wonderland with public
footpaths as plentiful on every country road as Starbucks are on every
street corner in the U.S. No wonder Beatrix Potter fell in love.
Photo courtesy: Victor Block
I saw so many rabbits scampering about as we hiked the
countryside, I felt this was an open invitation as it must have been
for Beatrix to follow them further into their world, even if that
turned out to be a very commercial but wonderfully inventive, creative,
interactive enterprise appropriately nicknamed The World of Peter Rabbit.
But more on that later.
And splattered throughout the countryside are hilly
historic towns with cobblestone streets and hidden alleyways that now
sport shops, pubs and curbside cafes, with such lyrical names as Branthwaite
Brow, All Hollows and Beast Bank Lane. And a lot more stone, this time
on buildings, many from the 16th-18th centuries, evoking memories of
Renaissance-era maidens and merchants plying their trade, oblivious
to the KFC establishment right across the street.
But there is nothing modern about a visit to Hill Top,
Beatrix Potter's home for 38 years and the site of many of her creations'
adventures. Many homes reflect the personalities of their owners
and sometimes even their pets. But rarely is a home so filled with the
immediacy of its owner's creations as is Hill Top, first purchased in
1905, that they appear so alive as to permeate not only the house but
the surrounding village and countryside, all of which became additional
characters in what were soon to become a series of beloved children's
books. And once you enter the grounds and garden of Hill Top, with all
its original furnishings, you are transported back to the world as it
was until the day she died. Except for the occasional young visitor
who has been known to ask the guides, "So is she Harry Potter's
granny?"
Photo courtesy: © National Trust
Images
Photo courtesy:
© National Trust Images
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Pick up "A Tale of Samuel Whiskers" lying
about as you walk in and follow the book's tale as you see the holes
where the mice lived that threatened Tom Kitten! You can accompany Pigland
Bland as he wanders thru the village and seek to protect Jemima Puddle-Duck's
egg as it lays hidden in the rhubarb patch. You can almost hear the
Two Bad Mice discussing the ham and cheese that don't seem quite edible
because they are, of course, from Beatrix's doll house which is right
in front of you in the parlor.
And not only her stories but her life. Her desks
contain letters she wrote, often illustrated with little cartoons and
drawings; the first edition of Peter Rabbit, which started simply as
a story written in letter form in September 1893 to cheer up a sick
son of her former governess, is available for viewing.
Photo courtesy: © National Trust
Images
The whole house becomes alive through the illustrations
in her stories or is it that the illustrations become alive because
they re-create the reality of her home? The parlor contains a table
with some partially eaten biscuits and some correspondence Beatrix was
evidently in the process of completing clearly she is expected to
return at any moment
So much of the house, the grounds and the village reflected
in the books remain unchanged, you can relive the delightful tales of
your youth in a way no perfunctory read in your own living room can
provide.
And indeed every area shop seemingly sells some version
of Peter Rabbit. memorabilia. Emblematic of how much he invades the
neighborhood, when my husband and I stopped at a local pub for some
requisite fish and chips, he asked about the soup of the day. When told
by the bartender that it was carrot, he quipped: How appropriate. No
doubt Peter Rabbit's favorite
"
Photo courtesy: Victor Block
And remember the rabbits cavorting in the countryside?
Well, here's where their namesake really comes alive. In the downtown
section of Bowness-on-Windermere there stands a very different testimonial
to the creations of Beatrix Potter. More commercial perhaps but no less
intriguing. The World of Beatrix Potter Attractions, unconnected with
the National Trust preservation of Hill Top, offers an animated version
of all 23 of Potter's tales brought to life in an indoor re-creation
of the Lake District countryside she loved and her lovable characters
inhabited complete with sights, sounds and smells.
I mean how thrilling is it to find that Jemima Puddle-Duck
was a real duck that lived at Hill Top whose efforts to hatch her own
eggs, thwarted by a conniving fox nearby, were protected by Kep the
collie, Beatrix's favorite sheepdog. You can't get more real life than
that and we're talking cartoon characters!
Throughout the attraction are life-size dioramas of
scenes from her books, sometimes comprising an entire forest, that it's
hard to imagine that they were once only illustrations in a book the
size of 4x5 inches??? The whole exhibit replicates a stroll through
Beatrix Potter's home and garden.
Photo courtesy: Victor Block
Each exhibit entreats the viewer to press a "Find
out more" button which provides an explanation of what inspired
Beatrix to write that particular story and how she developed those particular
characters. Each larger-than-life display lifts the characters from
the page to inhabit your consciousness in a way few fairy-tales
or for that matter, adult literary protagonists ever will. There
is so much background information about each character -- and there
are dozens that it is almost impossible to absorb it all unless
you are a very devoted Beatrix Potter aficionado. It's a journey through
a lifetime of literature.
Adele Wilson from Scotland, with nary a kid in tow was
so obviously enthralled by the exhibits that I couldn't resist asking
why. "My granny used to read these books to me at night, and seeing
these presentations brings it all back to life. I had forgotten how
much I had loved all those stories." She isn't alone.
For more information, visit The
Hill Top website and The
World of Beatrix Potter Attraction.
Related Articles:
The
Magic of Christmas; Cotswolds:
Bourton-on-the-Water; The
Brothers Grimm and the Fairytale Road; The
Hand of Man in the South of England; Chewton
Glen; Yorkminster,
England
(Posted 11-14-2014)
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