Breath-holding
beauty. Harrowing 4-wheel drives.
Unique geologic formations.
History of the earth and of the country--
Utah's National Parks
Story by Fyllis Hockman
riving
along a winding, narrow cliff, a 1300-foot drop on the drivers
side, I clung to my heart, with the rest of me halfway out the passenger-side
window.
Hiking slick rock at seemingly a 90-degree angle, I
came to a visual wonder, and understood why so many made the climb.
Gaping at high cliff walls adorned with sharp pinnacles
leaping skyward, it looked like the earth had been splashed with multi-hued
red dyes, all running together.
Such is life among the five national parks of southern
Utah. Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce and Zion share many commonalities,
including uncompromising splendor, history of both the earth and the
country, and a sense of personal sanctuary.
These five mystical worlds have been created over millions
of years by the movement of the earth, water and wind, rain and draught,
freezes and thaws and, especially, erosion. Even today, these same elements
continue to change the face of the parks. After more than 150 million
years, they are still works in progress.
Aptly named Arches National Park is a Mecca of some
of natures most intriguing creations: architectural designs that
span space and confound logic for which no man-made blueprint was ever
drawn. With over 900 such structures, it boasts the largest concentration
of naturally occurring arches in the world.
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
The trail to Delicate Arch, one of its most famous,
is anything but. Arduous is the more apt term for the mostly uphill
climb over slick rock. By the time I neared the top, I was prepared
to trip the next person heading down who said, Oh, but its
worth it.
Still, after rounding the final obstacle, the only word
that emerged with what I was sure was my final breath, was Wow.
Leaving Delicate Arch, I was able to focus on the beauty of the surroundings.
Going up, I could concentrate only on putting one foot in front of the
other.
Nearby Canyonlands requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle
- preferably with a driver. At 6000 feet, the view from Island
in the Sky looks down at cliffs 2000 feet tall, arising out of a magnificently
gouged and painted landscape.
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
The panorama at Grandview Point is unequaled in terms
of sheer expanse, providing a broad view over the entire park, stretching
across countless canyons - and beyond. Indeed, Canyonlands is
a series of spectacular views strung across hundreds of miles of remote
wilderness. Suffice it to say, Scenic Overlook signs are
redundant.
The highlight of the park, for me, was the Shafer Trail.
The dirt road, rough in spots, very rough in others, is bordered on
one side by perpendicular cliffs; on the other, the afore-mentioned
sheer 1300-foot drop. Riding along the very narrow, bumpy ledge, I found
myself leaning far to the right in the hopes of influencing the car
further in that direction.
Even so, I managed to appreciate the other-worldly landscape
we were passing. Halfway down, the mountain on our right was so high
I could barely see its top. On the other side, the drop to the vast
valley below was vertigo-inducing.
The drive itself - in lowest gear - is slow-going.
Bouncing up and down and rocking side to side 2000 feet above any sane
persons comfort level for four hours, you can lose several pounds
without ever leaving the car. A plus, as I saw it.
Photo courtesy
of Utah Tourism
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Although geologic history is stressed in every park,
at Capitol Reef, its what defines it - ranging from 80 to
270 million years old. Dana and Milo Breite from Shingle Springs, California,
were as giddy as two kids in a video game store. Weve been
collecting rocks and exploring geologic sites together for decades,
and this is one of the highlights of all our excursions, exclaimed
Dana.
Expanding on the theme, a 10-mile scenic drive through
the park furthers the geologists perspective. Mile by mile, and
layer by sedimentary rock layer, our driver detailed what weather patterns,
geographical changes, erosion and other influences coalesced to create
the nearly 200 million years of geologic history through which we were
passing.
A stroll along the Grand Wash River bed nearby, so narrow
in parts you can touch both canyon walls at the same time, evoked old
western film images of the lonely cowboy out on the trail. Here cinema
meets cinema verite. This is Butch Cassidy country. He used to ride
along this same stream bed (though it had water in it, then) and hide
among the cavernous cliffs overhead - now called, not surprisingly,
Cassidy Arch.
A park away, Stan Weintraub of St. Augustine, Florida
claimed he could spend hours in Bryce Canyon just looking at the hoodoos
and assigning them different imaginary configurations. You can
write books about what you think you are seeing, offered Stan.
Photo courtesy of Utah Tourism
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Bryce Canyon is synonymous with hoodoos -- phantasmagorical
images emerging from weird and wonderful rock formations. There are
thousands of the little (and not so little) guys in all shapes, colors
and sizes. The parks unique rain and ice patterns sculpt these
fanciful spires of rusted limestone; erosion at its most imaginative.
More than geologic oddities, hoodoos cast a magical spell on all who
return their stony gaze.
I recommend driving to taking the newly available shuttle;
it covers only 5 of the 14 overlooks, thereby overlooking (in a negative
way) Natural Bridge, Aqua Canyon and Rainbow Point, among the most memorable
of the observation points.
The color-intense view from Aqua Canyon -- vivid coppers
glowing in ochres and vermillion, vying with slashes of oranges and
invading magentas -- challenges the most expensive of cameras or cell
phones to reproduce it accurately. Just below, sandstone statues of
a Pioneer Woman with bustled skirt and Mad Hunter with Hat reign as
king and queen over a hoodoo chessboard.
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
(Photo by Luca Galuzzi)
Hiking brings an intimacy with surroundings impossible
to experience from an observation ledge. Hikers way below negotiating
in, around and through the hoodoo pillars resemble colorful, marching
toothpicks. Ah, but the stories they will be able to tell as those who
knew the hoodoos well.
Arriving at Zion reinforces the idea that each park
is unique. At the other parks, your line of sight extends out toward
the horizon as well as down into the canyons. At Zion, you look straight
up - and up - and up. Towering cliffs - some of the
tallest in the world - flank you on either side. Youre now
on the canyon floor, looking up at straight, sheer masses of Navajo
sandstone unencumbered by frilly outgrowths and hoodoo pillars. They
meet the sky at a point that strains both the neck and the imagination.
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia
Commons
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Water is an anomaly here, in contrast to the harsh draught
of the other parks. The soft-running Virgin River, which accompanied
me on many of the hikes throughout the park, is responsible for creating
the huge rock gorges that encircle the park - and it took only
it 5-to-16 million years to do so.
At Bryce, riding the shuttle is optional; at Zion, its
mandatory - the only way visitors may tour the park. Running at
six-minute intervals, it takes you to eight stops which are simply starting
points for further exploration by foot.
Because youre so close to the canyons, towering
replaces expanse as the word of the day. Viewing options
at Zion are more under-looks than overlooks. For those who are afraid
of heights - Zion is the park!
Hiking provides even greater connection, and several
of the paved trails are easily traversed. A short, albeit uphill, stroll
leads to Hanging Gardens, where small waterfalls fed by springs high
in the cliffs above tease plants and flowers directly out of the rock.
The Riverside Trail hike passes through surprisingly
lush vegetation to streams where you can cool your feet; skip stones
with the kids; picnic or simply sit upon a rock and get lost in the
scenery. The Virgin River makes its less-than-virgin run through and
over rocks, emitting self- satisfied sounds as a backdrop to the reverie.
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
Visitors, depending upon personal preference, can start
in Zion and head north for increasingly spectacular views (my choice);
or begin at Arches and drive south to save the best for last, as many
consider Zion to be. Either way, it is impossible not to be enthralled
by the unimaginable replay of expansive beauty and scenic motifs that
present themselves in so many different ways from one park to the other.
For more information, call the Utah Office of Tourism at 800/200-1160
or check the website at Utah.travel.
If You Go
How to go. The drive from Salt Lake City International
Airport to Arches National Park takes about 3-1/2 hours, and to Zion
National Park about 4-1/2 hours. The logical route to take in all five
parks is to begin at Arches and drive southwest, or start at Zion and
head northeast. An alternative is to fly into Las
Vegas and drive about 3 hours to Zion National Park.
When to go. Spring to early summer, and autumn,
are the coolest times to visit, especially important for those planning
strenuous activity. Many families with children visit in the summer,
when the kids are out of school.
Cost. When covering all five parks, an $80 America
the Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass
is the way to go. It provides one-year admittance to every park in the
country for all passengers of a vehicle. A $10 version, for persons
62 and older, provides lifetime access to all the national parks. Individual
passes to the separate Utah parks range from $5 to $25 per vehicle.
(Posted 2-17-2012)
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