|  
         Country Roads: 
          Paparazzi at the Osteria 
          Story and photos by Tom Weber  
          
          
         ne 
          of the drawbacks of being on tour as part of an international media 
          group  we're 23 strong and guests of Insight Vacations 
          (Insight) on its abbreviated Country Roads of Italy journey through 
          Umbria and Tuscany to sample la dolce vita  is that everyone 
          in our pack, and I mean EVERYONE, goes after the same shot with their 
          cameras, and all at the same time. 
          
        Some locales are better than others, but 
          the epitome of our paparazzi state-of-mind really comes into 
          focus around dining room tables and bar counters. Lenses, long and short, 
          poke out wherever and whenever fine food and drink is on display. 
          
        We jockey for position around la tavola 
          based upon available natural light, or lack thereof, and go straight 
          to work. CLICK!-CLICK!-CLICK! That's the sound you hear when 
          an assortment of DSLRs and mobile handhelds say "formaggio" 
          (cheese) in unison to the plates and glasses that catch our eyes. 
        I guess it's a small price to pay when 
          you're touring around Italy on someone else's euro, right? 
          
        Our next "photo op" finds our 
          band of merry media seated inside the upscale Osteria 
          di Fonterutoli, guests of Doctor-slash-Marchese (Marquis) Francesco 
          Mazzei, as well as the purse strings of Insight, for a degustazione 
          (tasting) of wines and gourmet food. 
          
        And the stars of this lens-loving affair? 
          The osteria (CLICK!); the creative dishes being prepared 
          for us (CLICK!); and, the wines from the nearby Castello 
          di Fonterutoli winery. (CLICK!) 
        Doctor Mazzei (CLICK!), looking 
          very smart in his tan sport coat and open shirt (some of the gals in 
          our group want to place him on a piece of toast), welcomes all of us 
          and begins to describe the characteristics of the first of two labels 
          that we will sample: Vermentino di Toscana. (CLICK!) 
          
        This IGT appellation (Indicazione Geografica 
          Tipica  Typical Geographical Indication) white varietal, comes 
          from Mazzei's Belguardo Estate in the hills of southwestern Tuscany, 
          between Grosseto and Montiano, not far from the Tyrrhenian Sea. 
        As Dr. Mazzei explains, "This dry 
          Vermentino shows real character, fine texture and a softness from a 
          bouquet of aromatic notes, including those of yellow peaches." 
        We swirl, smell and sip. 
        The good doctor continues, "It 
          pairs quite well with fish soups, grilled fish and crustaceans, pasta 
          with vegetables and cheese-based appetizers." 
          
        
        As if on cue, waiters begin delivering 
          plates of culinary art: a zucchini and herbs flan underneath a pecorino 
          cheese fondue. (CLICK!) 
        The dish turns out to be the perfect balance 
          between the meadows and the garden, and the Vermentino proves to be 
          quite the shepherd. I take my sweet time getting through it, as I don't 
          want this dish to ever end. 
        Still looking dapper in his tan sport coat, 
          Dr. Mazzei, now a.k.a. "the Hunk," returns to the head of 
          the table cradling a bottle of red  Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 
          (CLICK!)  and explains: "Selected from among our estate's 
          120 different terroirs, and following in the footsteps of its 'big brother,' 
          Castello di Fonterutoli (which we did not taste), this Chianti Classico 
          is our estate's second best wine." 
        We swirl, smell and sip again. 
        The highest appellation in Italy, this 
          DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita  
          Guaranteed Controlled Origin of Designation) classic  a blend 
          of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Malvasia Nera, Colorino and Merlot  
          comes from the hills just outside the osteria's front door, is 
          dark berry-red in color, intense, but well proportioned with an elegant 
          body, spicy flavors and a very smooth taste. 
          
        As our matinee idol, Dr. Mazzei, points 
          out, "Fonerutoli Chianti Classico is our estate's most widely known 
          and distributed label. It goes exceedingly well with aged affettati 
          (cold cuts), grilled meats, fried vegetables and dark sauce pastas." 
          
        Again, as if on cue, waiters place another 
          mouth-watering dish before us: a fresh, eggs-and-flour, macaroni pasta 
          in a wild boar's sauce. (CLICK!) 
        THE classic ragù of Tuscany, 
          the boar was not boring at all, the pasta was al dente, and mixed 
          together they paired fabulously well with the other classic, the Chianti 
          we were drinking. 
          
        The wine tasting over, waiters returned 
          with the final dish, the one that everyone craves: dolce (dessert). 
          And what a treat it is. A hazelnut, semifreddo, ice-cream cake 
          topped with a drizzle of dark chocolate. (CLICK!) Paired with 
          a caffè macchiato, it's the perfect ending to a perfect 
          pranzo. 
          
        But, this afternoon-heading-into-sundown 
          isn't over by a long shot. We gather outside the osteria, then 
          cross the street as Dr. Mazzei  now upgraded to GQ cover 
          status  and Belinda, Insight's tour director-slash-storyteller 
          (she's always a 10), take us on a walking tour of Castello di Fonterutoli, 
          including the doctor's residence, where he posed for the lens with our 
          band of merry media. (CLICK!) 
          
        Back on board the motorcoach, seats reclining 
          and faces smiling, Belinda delivers our new GPS coordinates: We're 
          now heading to the Borgo San Luigi, a gorgeous Tuscan villa estate, 
          where you'll be spending the next two nights. 
        Someone from the distaff side of our band 
          of merry media  I guess she just couldn't contain herself about 
          Doctor-slash-Marchese Mazzei's good looks  blurts out: Wasn't 
          Francesco the absolute bomb? He could give Clooney a run for his money. 
          (CLICK!) 
          
        For complete information on Insight Vacations' 
          12 Italian premium and luxury-escorted itineraries and over 100 journeys 
          throughout Europe, just click HERE, 
          or call toll free (888) 680-1241, or contact your travel agent. 
        See you tomorrow when we head to San Gimignano, 
          the Manhattan of medieval Italy. (CLICK!) 
        Ciao for now. 
        Related Articles: 
          Chianti 
          Pours Forth from Fonterutoli; Cortona: 
          Under the Renovated Tuscan Sun; Linnertime 
          in Spello; Take 
          Me Home Country Roads; The 
          Olive Groves of Ragani; Saintly 
          Assisi; Underground 
          in Perugia 
          
           
      
  |