Travel Pilgrimages
Mozart in Salzburg & 'Kit' Carson in Taos
by Ringo Boitano

An official portrait of the genius. Courtesy: Salzburg Tourism

ohann Chrysostom Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 - 1791) could read and compose music, plus play the violin and keyboard, when he was five years old. Born into a musical family in Salzburg, Austria (then the Holy Roman Empire), he had a unique ability for imitating music, which first became evident when he recited a musical piece by simply observing his father conducting a lesson to his older sister. This led to a childhood on the road, where the young prodigy performed before many of the royal courts of Europe. At 17, no longer a child prodigy, he returned to Salzburg and accepted a post as a court musician, but was frustrated with the salary and stifling opportunities. His early travels and uncanny memory, though, had provided him with a plethora of musical styles and experiences, from which he used to create his own compositional language. He eventually settled in Vienna where he achieved fame, and is now considered one of the most influential and prolific composers of the Classical era.

The Birthplace of Mozart. Courtesy: Salzburg Tourism

Though Mozart was never happy with his career in Salzburg, the city today is a Mecca for all things Amadeus. An essential stop is a visit to Mozart's Geburtshaus (birthplace). This is the house where Mozart's parents lived for 26 years and young Mozart was educated. Now a three-story museum, it is filled with original instruments ---- Mozart's childhood violin, concert violin, clavichord and pianoforte --- portraits, family letters, and furniture and objects of daily use, including Mozart's very cradle. I strongly recommend a private tour, where guides are walking encyclopedias about his life. Why were Mozart's famous eyes so bulging? He didn't eat his vegetables!

Another Mozart must is a dinner concert at the famous Stiftskeller St. Peter, considered the "oldest restaurant in Europe." The concert is performed by candlelight between food courses, prepared with traditional recipes from Mozart's era. Period-costumed musicians, including two opera singers, perform arias from "Don Giovanni", "Le Nozzi di Figaro" and "The Magic Flute." Dining under magnificent chandeliers and surrounded by 18th century décor, not to mention the stirring music, is like being transported back to the magical times of Mozart.

The enchanting beauty of Salzburg. Courtesy: Salzburg Tourism

The setting in Salzburg --- itself an enchanting fairytale of a city --- only enhances the experience. The city's wealth was built on the mining of salt ('salt' translates to 'salz' in German, hence the city's name). The west bank of the Salsas River borders the Alborg Historic Centre (known to locals as the Altadt), and is where most of the attractions are located. The fortress Festung Hohensalzburg towers over narrow cobblestone streets, lined with stunning baroque architecture. Smartly dressed locals sit in elegant coffee houses, noshing on delicate pastries and Mozartkugln (Mozart chocolate balls) and sipping frothy cups of coffee. I could have spent a week there.

Stiftskeller St. Peter * Mozart's Geburtshaus * Salzburg Information

The legend: Christopher Houston "Kit" Carson. Courtesy: Kit Carson Home and Museum

Christopher Houston "Kit" Carson (1809 - 1868) spoke ten languages, including numerous American-Indian dialects. Yet he was virtually illiterate, barely able to write his own name. Born in rural Kentucky, he ran away from home as a teenager and joined a hunting expedition. This began a life of adventure, which led to his becoming one of the most legendry figures in western history. American frontiersman, solder, trapper and mountain man, Carson drew national attention when he became a guide for John C. Fremont on three scientific and mapping expeditions through Oregon and California. The American public had a hearty appetite for the 'untamed land of the west,' and Carson became as famous as Fremont's published reports.

Carson eventually settled near Taos to farm and to do occasional scouting. He met Josefa Jaramillo, the daughter of a prominent Taoseno family. Despite their age difference --- he was thirty-three years old and she was only fourteen --- they married. As a wedding present for his new bride, Carson purchased a three-room adobe structure. They were married for 25-years, and raised seven children. During that period the house became a place for entertaining Taoseno "politicos" and prominent members of society. Carson's nationally known reputation also brought generals and congressmen, not to mention craggy mountain men and trappers. Kit and Josefa lived in the house until their deaths, exactly one-month apart.

The Kit Carson Home and Museum is located one block from the Taos Plaza. Photo Credit: Deb Roskamp.

Today visitors can learn about the history of the legendary western icon and life in Taos, due to the preservation of the home. Located one block from the Taos Plaza, the Kit Carson Home and Museum is a series of buildings which includes the original three room home, plus two buildings that contain a retail shop and additional exhibition space. The simplicity of the architecture and the sparse displays --- sheepskin bedding, buffalo hide, basic kitchen utensils, and outdoor kiva fireplace --- not only educates us about Carson, but show what life was like for a family living in that era. The Kit Carson Home and Museum is a mandatory stop when visiting Taos.

Kit Carson Home and Museum * Taos County Chamber of Commerce