The historic city, as high as it is, is entrenched in a river basin tucked between towering Andean Mountain peaks and snow-capped volcanoes lying on the eastern slopes of Pichincha, a Strata volcano. The ageless landscape dictates a long and narrow city with an Historic Center that is one of the largest, least altered and best protected in the Americas, not unlike Bordeaux Historic Center in France and the walled city of Antiqua in Guatemala.

In 1978 Quito was honored by UNESCO as the World’s First City for their Cultural Heritage, Traditions and Architecture, and Geographical Beauty, a tribute that also recognized the opportunities Quito provides to experience an historic slice of South America.

A View City Where Nature Speaks

The historic area is crisscrossed with narrow cobble-stone streets covering an impressive 800 acres. From the 15-room Hotel Castillo Vista del Angel high on the eastern flank of Old Town, astonishing 360* views and vivid impressions emerge under the night sky. Countless twinkling stars above are mirrored below as though their twins plunged downward into the valley, landing across the mountainous landscape in a romantic display of Ecuadorian design.

The Quitenos explain, “We compare the weather to politics, unpredictable and tricky. We can have four seasons in one day so a rain coat, sun block, and sun glasses are ideal when you’re out and about. On a clear day we can see 22 volcanoes, but when the afternoon rains arrive it’s time to pop into a cafe for a cup of coffee.”

In the heart of Quito, thousands of houses, and dozens of churches and Cathedrals line Old Town streets just wide enough for a horse-drawn carriage. A maze of white, sky blue, light yellow, and pale peach buildings spread up the sides of the surrounding steep-sided mountains and ancient volcanoes like a mind-boggling jumble of puzzle pieces not yet assembled that challenges visitors to put on their walking shoes and explore.

The streets and narrow sidewalks in Old Town are alive with Quitenos, an engaging blend of students, young nicely dressed business women, families, indigenous groups from the Andes Highlands, Otavalo and Cotacahi, some ingeniously carrying their babies in the traditional backpack, and vendors selling fresh fruit. Yellow cabs weave like crazed ants in search of their Queen through the streets, expertly navigating the five pedestrian-free streets that lace Old Town and connect with legendary Plaza Grande or Independence Square in the heart of the city. The 16^th century square is neatly lined with the Presidential Palace, City Hall, the Cathedral, Archiepiscopal Palace, restaurants, coffee shops, and Café Galeria. The café offers Pacari organic chocolate tastings, not unlike the wine tastings of other regions, where it’s explained that Ecuador’s climate is ideal for producing some of the world’s finest cacao which is shipped in great quantities to Switzerland.

Cathedrals and Churches: An Historic Understanding

Quito’s churches reveal the history of Ecuador and her people preserving the art of the 16^th and 17^th centuries, the architecture, extraordinary wood carvings, rare fine art, and the traditions of the Ecuadorians. Quito has 27 churches in a 33 block area, including La Compania de Jesus, 1605, adjacent to Plaza Grande. The church is considered the crown jewel of the Baroque Period in America with an interior exquisitely covered with 23-karat gold leaf. Nearby, the Cathedral with Rococo, Neo-gothic, Baroque, Moorish and Neo-classic architecture has a dome that can be accessed up a narrow passageway for views of the plaza, and, for those collecting photographs, a special memory.

A guided walking tour leads to San Francisco Market, 1893, offering vegetables, meats, herbs, seasonal fruit from the Andean highlands, roses in abundance, and a food court to experience potato cakes, chicken stew, potato soup, and slow roasted pork topped with fresh juices. Indigenous holistic herb healers encourage an herbal massage and cleansing using leaves, branches, and flowers that leave legs and feet tingling and give instructions not to shower in the evening in order to let the herb treatment settle. Ecuadorian roses are a major export and foremost city adornment leading one local Quiteno to say, “You can buy 25 roses for one dollar so if you’re not a romantic in Quito you have a big problem.”

In this city of neighborhoods, La Ronda is a bit off the tourist trail in the Southern Historic District. It is an artistic and colorful block-long stone-lined alleyway, similar to those in Southern Spain, with flowered iron balconies, restaurants, classic museum-quality wood carvers and small wall to wall boutiques.

Leave The Driving To Your Guide

Sixteen miles south of Plaza Grande is a monument marking the general location of the equator while nearby a Solar Museum with a modern GBS unit calculates the 0 latitude exactly. A location known to Quitenos as “the middle of the world,” the equator is also the origin of the country’s name, in Spanish, Ecuador.

A two-hour drive brings travelers to Otavalo’s craft market and Plaza de Ponchos, South America’s largest outdoor market, a vibrant array of Indigenous weavings from scarves, blankets, and ponchos, to embroidered blouses, hammocks, and jewelry. In contrast, Cotacachi, 45 minutes northwest of Otavalo, is known as the city of leather with some 50 shops.

Cotacachi is also a glorious stop for lunch, home to the exquisite 23 room La Mirage Garden Hotel & Spa, a five-star expanse of beauty and elegance. A former hacienda, opened in 1987, La Mirage is the only Relais & Chateaux property in Ecuador with a wall of prestigious awards. Chef Hugo Flores works with the local farmers and creates delightful specialties from the Andean Region. Out on the grounds, eight peacocks take turns staring through the windows at Chef Flores’ shrimp, avocado, and pineapple salad.

The Annual Festival of Light

South America’s premier Light Festival in August draws visitor’s world-wide. Twenty-one buildings are cleverly lit along with a street of multi-hued umbrellas, and a stunning 12-minute presentation depicting the history and life of Ecuador, Quito, and their people, created with dazzling artistic skill similar to the quality of Pixar or Disney. The streets of Old Town are blocked from traffic and an evening under the lights of Quito is exceptional.

Drink only bottled water and Quito’s diverse gastronomy offerings will be a distinctive highlight with recipes to share.

When You Go

The official Ecuadorian currency is the U.S. dollar with small bills and loads of singles essential. Driving in Quito is not recommended; a personal guide is. Marcelo Guerra, born and raised in Quito, speaks fluent English and can arrange a tailor-made itinerary.

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or 011-593 9 8458-7400. Various airlines serve Quito including JetBlue connecting through Fort Lauderdale. The Quitenos recommend visiting from December to April with warmer nights, sunny mornings, and easily avoidable bursts of rain in the afternoon.

For further information, visit Quito Turismo

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(First of Four Articles)

Some stories seem too bizarre to believe but this did happen to me. It was 1999. We were working as missionaries in the Philippines. Before I begin, I need to give you some basic background information.

We developed a livelihood program which helped impoverished churches support their pastors in extremely depressed communities. One of the products we trained the people to make was handmade paper from banana plant fibers.  Over the years the program became quite large and we had some beautiful products and the program achieved its goals.

To process these tough abaca fibers (a type of banana plant) into pulp, it requires several operations and one of them is cooking. We began small and cooked them over a wood fire in a small pot for three days. As the project began to grow, we needed a larger pot and that eventually led to a point where we needed to get serious about cooking large amounts of fibers. The best solution was a steam system and that meant a boiler.

A boiler. I knew nothing about boilers except that they are big, hot, expensive and they are found in Canada where they have 11 months of snow and one month of bad sledding.  But this California boy was “boiler-challenged.”  Where would one find a boiler in the Philippines? This is not exactly a country where central heat is a priority. We only had two seasons there, hot-humid and hot-wet.  A boiler right?!? Good luck finding that one! Did you ever have one of those things in your life that you felt silly asking God about? I was sure he was going to laugh.  So, I prayed, “Uh, God, this is Ed in the Philippines again. I know I am always asking for dumb stuff but I think I may have outdone myself this time. We need a boiler.”  Then I ducked.

This story gets crazy.  The associate missionary who was working with us at the time attended a small barrio church near us.  A Filipino banker was pastoring that church.  I have no idea how the subject came up but our associate mentioned to the pastor/banker that we were looking for a boiler.  I imagine he just said something like, “Brother Vern, I noticed that you need Bibles and windows in the building and your new Sunday school rooms are taking shape.  By the way, do you know where I can find a boiler?”  OK, I don’t know how the subject came up but it seems that the least likely person in the world to ask about a boiler is a pastor in a depressed area.  So, what did Vern say?  Are you ready for this?  He calmly looked at my associate and remarked, “I have a boiler and I could give it to you.”  I told you this story is going to get bizarre.

It gets better. It turns out that pastor Vern was not just a banker and a pastor, but he was also an entrepreneur. About ten years earlier he was approached by a Korean businessman who had a plan for an exciting new product that was going to sweep Korea and he needed a Filipino business partner to run the production side. It was much cheaper to set up a factory in the Philippines. The product was “liquid goat.”  No, that is not a typo.  Liquid goat!  The Korean wanted to use high-pressure steam to vaporize goats and turn them into this cool carbonated soft drink.  I still have trouble visualizing not just the process but the product. Can you imagine having some friends over on a hot summer afternoon for a barbeque and yanking some cool ones out of the ref, “Who wants a goat?”   Visualizing was not coming easy for me on this one but cultures are different.

From what I was able to understand the liquid goat industry didn’t exactly take off.  I could say, “Duh” at this point but that would not be kind so let me just say, “That is really too baaaaaaaad.”  Here is what happened. The two partners in goat proceeded to build a large building and then the Korean partner imported a huge stainless steel steam system with a boiler, large steam vessels, spinners and the other usual goat-vaporizing components.  It arrived from South Korea and they installed it and began the operation.

They bought a herd of goats and tossed them in into the big shiny stainless tanks and turned up the heat.  I know what you want to ask but don’t.  All I know is that the goats went into the tanks.  After the cooking, spinning, removing goat slop and filtering they then carbonated the stuff.  (Makes your mouth water, doesn’t it?)  Then the anticipated moment arrived.  They completed the first liquid goat soft drink.  Yep, they wiped the Manila sweat off their faces, sat down, looked at each other with hearts racing in anticipation, and then had the ultimate satisfaction of being the first to pop the lid and down the goat.  Then they just stared at each other.  And they stared. Was it satisfaction and the joy of accomplishment?  No, it was the realization that liquid goat was not very good.  Actually, it was horrible.  OK, now I can say it.  Duuuuuh!  Vern asked his new partner if he had ever had liquid goat before and the partner said, “No, it just seemed like it would work!”  They stared some more.

Since we can’t begin to imagine what goes through a person’s mind when they have their first frosty goat and when you experience the death of a vision in such a burst of blunt realization and heartburn, we will just the leave the rest of the story to your imagination and get on to the final part.

The Korean went home the next day. Let me say that one more time. The Korean boarded a plane in the morning, went home, and was never heard from again.  He vanished, disappeared, no phone calls, nada.  Vern, from what I can tell, was sad and happy at the same time. He was sad the business failed and he was happy the business failed.  I guess he didn’t want to be known as the man who cooked and carbonated goats.  So, he locked up the giant, glistening goat-liquefying facility, and got on with his life.

Ten years passed, and then one day he put his property up for sale. He found a buyer but they did not want the goat factory. (I can’t imagine why.)  I would have said, “Nice property Vern, but what really sold me was that great goat liquefaction factory.  Wow, how can I pass that up?”  But that is just me, the buyer wanted it gone.  What could Vern do with all that equipment?  Should he run an ad that said, “For sale, liquid goat factory?” It had been ten years since he had heard from his partner and now the place is sold and he has to move everything out in a few weeks.  So, at that very moment, with no idea how to find a way to get rid of all that equipment, this American missionary says to him, “Do you know where we can get a boiler?”

Two days later we toured the deserted food factory and saw not just a large boiler but large stainless cooking vessels and piping and motors and pumps and spinners and and and  and . . . We just stood there amazed with our mouths open and with perspiration dripping from our faces.  I am sure glad he didn’t offer us a goat.  The bottom line is that Vern visited our paper-making facility and loved the ministry.  He then donated the entire steam system to us.  And then, just as quickly as Vern had come into our lives, he died in a car accident two weeks later. I can’t help but smile when I think of the hug God gave Vern for his last generous act before he died. God has a way of rewarding his kids and I am so glad for Vern’s sake that he laid up treasure for himself in heaven and he didn’t delay in doing it.

Once again, my imagination takes me to a conversation, this time between Vern and God.  “Vern, well done. You have been a good and faithful servant. But I have one question for you.  What were you thinking?  — Liquid Goat?”

Almost overnight we had this incredible steam system and absolutely no idea how to install it or operate it. So, I prayed, “Hi God, it’s Ed again from the Philippines. Remember a few weeks ago when I asked for a boiler and then I ducked?  Well, as you know, we now have a complete steam system worth a gazillion dollars at our facility and I just wanted to thank you.  But if I can add a small addendum to the request we could sure use someone to help us set it up and show us how to use it.”   I ducked again.

Before we went to the mission field I did what many thought was a foolish thing.  I quit my secure job with the San Diego Fire Department and packed up my wife and five children and headed off to a Bible school in Canada.  While there for three years I studied the Bible and waited on God for directions. I also worked as a summer staff to help feed my family and in doing so I got to know many of the behind-the-scenes workers who kept the Bible school running. One of those people I met was a steam engineer who ran their two-story boiler that kept our classrooms warm when the temps dropped to 40 below zero.  Yes, 40 below.  That was fun.  Art was one of several steam engineers who worked there.  Now move ahead 20 years. I am standing in Manila looking at the large steam system we had just acquired and praying for help on what to do next.  Art came back to mind after all those years and I sent off an e-mail to the school and had no idea if he would remember one of the thousands of students and we had only briefly met. I had no idea if he still worked there.  I got an e-mail back from Art.  “Yes” and “yes” were the answers.

After a few more e-mails Art decided to use his vacation to come over and help us.  His church even helped with expenses and so Art, who had never left Canada, came to the Philippines.  It was his first out-of-country experience and what a treat it was to have him join us. He set up safety equipment, rebuilt parts and modified others, tested it all and hooked it up and then he trained us.  And he only mentioned the odd odor it had a few times. When Art left we had a fully functioning steam system and we were not afraid to use it. It worked flawlessly over the years and helped us cook tons of banana fibers and has helped keep impoverished churches alive.

One day in glory, I envision Vern, Art and myself sitting down together in heaven and having a nice cold goat together and laughing. I think we will all agree that the entire experience was unforgoatable!

PS: since that time, many years later, I came across an actual product of South Korea called Black Goat Tonic.  From what I have read the tonic is derived from a four-month-old goat that is boiled for 22 hours. The liquid is then filtered to remove the fats and sold in small bottles.

If you think drinking a carbonated liquid goat is weird, stay tuned.  The next three articles deal with food, but not just any food.  These will be the strangest, oddest and most fascinating things people eat around the world.

Dedication: I would like to dedicate this article to a special lady, Lucinda Tamayo, the wife of Vern.  When he died suddenly in 1999, she continued working with the poor in her church and today she is part of the leadership team of a vibrant Filipino church, the church Vern started.

The post The Frosty Goat: Strange Things People Eat appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Cabin Fever

I think we are in week 5 of the Covid lockdown. People are processing things they would normally have no time to consider. People are getting into each other’s nerves. If you are beginning to have conversations with inanimate objects, you know what I mean.

I just recently got into a conversation about the inhumane condition that this government demands of its citizens. A friend’s Dad is in a locked down retirement facility but she wants to be physically present with her Dad to comfort him. She is even willing to get infected and die in the process. She is thinking of crashing the doors to get him. However, from the medical logistical point of view, If she gets sick, she will be stealing resources (man power, medications, ventilators, etc.) from innocent others.

I can understand that the government is still grappling with uncertainties. What is the nature of the “beast?” Does it spread through animals? Does it live longer on metal surfaces? Is it airborne? Do we have enough resources to win this war? If it really is that deadly and that contagious, should someone dictate what is good for you and the rest of society? Should we be forced to isolate? Should doctors and nurses care for the foolhardy victims? My daughter is a nurse who is going through very real trials due to the pandemic. Is it fair for us to squeeze even more out of her to care for people who choose to be sick?

Joke of the Week

Thanks to Mike of New York for sharing this joke.

Video: Sophie Sings Fly Me to the Moon

Thanks to Debbie of Moreno Valley, CA for sending this adorable 5 year old’s rendition of Sinatra’s classic tune.

Video: Dog Hugs

Thanks to Don of Kelowna, B.C. for these heart warming clips of the love between dog and master.

Video: Grocery Shopping

Thanks to Naomi of N. Hollywood and Terry of Santa Monica, CA for this video. A great way to shop!

Video: Visita Iglesia

Thanks to Leo of Toronto for sharing his personal video of churches during his travels. Even the background music is from his own choir, the Madrigals of the University of the Philippines. I should have shared this last week but it’s better late than never.

Rodney’s Puns

Thanks to Rodney of Manitoba, B.C.  who sent this collection of puns. Sounds like this is original.

Parting Shots

Thanks to Naomi of N. Hollywood, CA who sent this image:

Thanks to Cheryl of Arcadia, CA for this picture:

The post Self-Isolation appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Balicasag and Panglao are just two of the many destinations in Bohol, an island province in the center of the Philippine archipelago. Bohol is well-known for its cute, large-eyed tarsiers and the remarkable Chocolate Hills but there’s so much more to see and experience in this province. A large number of white sand beaches await sun worshippers while crystal-clear waters teeming with marine life beckon snorkelers and divers. Just inland are several waterfalls, caves, cave pools, rice terraces and historic churches waiting to be explored. Green, jungle-fringed rivers ideal for kayaking, paddle-boarding or – if you’re feeling less adventurous – touring in a large boat while leisurely enjoying lunch, are there for the taking.

We were therefore faced with a bewildering array of choices upon arriving at Panglao Island where we checked in at a seaside resort. Deciding to go with the popular spots first, we drove for the Chocolate Hills Complex at Carmen town in the central part of the island.

The Chocolate Hills are a collection of at least 1,268 – but perhaps as many as 1,700 plus – grass-carpeted limestone mounds. It was the start of the hot and dry season when we arrived here and the hills had already turned a yellowish green. Those colors would soon morph into brown at the height of the dry season resulting in a slight resemblance to chocolate kisses, hence the name. During the peak of the rainy season in August to September these hills take on a more verdant green hue.

Next on the itinerary was the diminutive and lemur-like Philippine tarsier. There are a number of wildlife sanctuaries in Bohol that accommodate a few of the nocturnal primates and we selected the one in Bilar town since it was along our route. Most of the tarsiers in this sanctuary were asleep when we arrived, clinging to trees along a path that snaked its way through a forested area. Some eventually woke up even as we silently trudged along the pathway, their disproportionately huge eyes casting a shy stare in our direction. Those large eyes provide tarsiers with excellent night vision for hunting their prey.

After our encounter with the tarsiers and on the way to our next destination we passed by the Manmade Mahogany Forest in the town of Bilar. After sweltering in the warm tropical surroundings in Carmen and Bilar we were soon relishing the crisp, cool air afforded by the thick canopy of the mahoganies. Carpets of fallen red and brown leaves cloaked the forest floor adding a colorful contrast to the thick green foliage of the mahogany trees that almost completely blocked out the sun.

A Bohol countryside tour allows one to have lunch on the fly while touring a scenic river. That’s exactly what we experienced on the popular Loboc River tour where lunch buffet is served on a wide-bodied boat while cruising down the jade-green body of water. This tour also allowed us to have a splendid view of everyday life in the typical Boholano barrio: locals at work in their backyards along the riverbank, others paddling around in small bancas and children jumping from tree branches into the waters below. A teenage show-off displayed his Tarzan-like skills, swinging on a long rope from a tree on the riverbank almost into our moving boat and practically kissing the people lined up on the starboard side. Dangerous for him perhaps but pretty impressive.

During the river tour a father-and-daughter team was serenading us with a wide range of songs from The Stylistics’ Betcha By Golly Wow to Dolores O’Riordan and The Cranberries’ Linger. Then, as our boat swung back for the return trip, our tour group was treated to a special dance and music cultural presentation by locals aboard a floating hut. Such is the Boholanos’ love for dance and music.

Caves and waterfalls abound in Bohol but we could only drop by the Hinagdanan Cave on Panglao Island which is connected to the main island via 2 causeways. Beautiful stalactites and stalagmites as well as a crystal-clear green pool with a depth of 10-12 feet greeted us as we descended into the cavern from an opening in the ground. The cave was is well-lit but there are no manmade lights here; all of the lighting is natural. Several holes high up on the cave’s ceiling let sunlight in which then bounces off the rugged rock and crystal formations to create interesting lighting effects.

Just like all of the provinces in the Visayas, the group of major islands in central Philippines, Bohol is home to several gorgeous beaches and colorful waters. We’ve already mentioned Balicasag Island which has been a favorite of divers for some time now. Panglao Island has a collection of white sand beaches including Alona Beach, Dumaluan and the adjoining Libaong Beach. Alona Beach is the most popular beach in Bohol and probably has the densest concentration of hotels, resorts and restaurants in the province.

Wanting to shun the crowds and resorts at Alona Beach on our penultimate day in Bohol, we booked an outrigger boat to take us to the aforementioned Balicasag Island and Pungtud Island, the latter more popularly known as Virgin Island. Unlike Balicasag and Panglao, Virgin Island has few activities to offer but makes up for it in terms of looks. We could bask all day in its long white sandbar and surrounding crystal-clear turquoise waters. The only problem was that dozens of other boatloads of tourists had the same idea and we were soon sharing a lagoon near the sandbar with several other visitors (see also top photo).

The attractions in Bohol aren’t all natural. Practically each town has it its own historic church – a throwback to more than 300 years of Spanish colonial rule beginning in the 1500s. Some of these churches have been proclaimed as Natural Cultural Treasures by the government. The most famous among them is the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary Parish Church in Baclayon town, often simply referred to as the Baclayon Church. First built in 1596, the present structure was reconstructed in 1727. A major earthquake in 2013 heavily damaged this building, with the portico and bell tower collapsing, but restoration works were completed in 2017.

We might have visited a wide variety of destinations in Bohol but looking back now we realized we’ve only scratched its surface. Our visit was confined to the western side of the island and a part of its central section. The rest of the province still contains a treasure trove of natural and manmade wonders including more beaches and coral reefs that rival those of Panglao in the coastal towns of Anda, Jagna and Dimiao; green and gold rice terraces, cobalt-colored cold springs and turquoise cave pools in Candijay and more caves and rice terraces in Jagna just to name some of them. And a large number of waterfalls scattered about the whole province. We definitely have to be back. Now if only this pandemic will end soon…

The post Bohol: A World of Options in One Island appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Deep turquoise waters, ancient Andean cultures, breath-taking landscapes, and majestic 400 year old cathedrals make the region and city of Ayacucho one of Peru’s most interesting, yet least visited, tourist attractions.

Unfortunately, this unique region is known more as the birthplace of the terrorist organization Sendero Luminoso or Shining Path, who ruthlessly dominated the area in the 1980s and 90s, than for its astonishing history, culture and scenery.

With that said, today Ayacucho proves to be the perfect destination for tourists in search of a more local experience in the central highlands than might be found in larger sites like Cusco or Arequipa.

Brief History of the Shining Path

Winding up and up from the Pacific coast into the central highlands of Peru, one realizes how Ayacucho, a historically isolated and often forgotten region of Peru, became home to a tragic internal conflict which would eventually claim an estimated 69,000 lives between the years 1980 and 2000 (according to the Truth and Reconciliation Commission established by the Peruvian government).

In 1969, El Partido Comunista del Peru – Sendero Luminoso (Peruvian Communist Party – Shining Path) was founded by its leader Abimael Guzmán, a philosophy teacher at San Cristóbal of Huamanga University in Ayacucho. Guzmán, who became enamored by Maoist ideology, began introducing communism to his students and recruiting them for guerrilla warfare and cultural revolution.

The party, confined primarily to academic circles during the 1970s, began its attacks in 1980 by burning ballot boxes in a village near Ayacucho, attempting to stifle the country’s first attempt at democratic elections since 1964. Sadly, this attack was only the beginning of their reign of terror and a long, tragic period of violence in Peru.

While the government turned a blind eye for over a year, the party began brutal, coordinated attacks and assassinations on political leaders, labor unions, and other peasant organizations. They gathered support from primarily poor, rural areas where many only spoke Quechua, an indigenous language.

When in 1981 the Peruvian government finally declared a state of emergency, it would only complicate the situation for the people of Peru. The decree consequently gave the military unequivocal power to detain anyone under suspicion of terrorism, leading to an overall escalation of violence.

As the conflict grew stronger, local people found themselves trapped between a rock and a hard place, between the Peruvian military and the Shining Path, both sides guilty of intimidation, massacre, kidnapping, rape, and torture. A primary tactic of both groups was the kidnapping of men and boys. For the Shining Path, kidnapping served as a form of recruitment and social control. For the military, the tactic was used as “punishment” for political leaders or anyone else suspected of sympathizing with the Shining Path.

Not unlike most internal conflicts, civilians suffered the worst of the violence. Studies estimate that over 90% of deaths and disappearances were suffered by innocent townspeople who sided neither with the military nor the Shining Path. Out of all the victims, 4 out of every 10 were from the region of Ayacucho, 3 of every 4 were Quechua-speakers, and over half were farmers or shepherds.

In 1992, the Shining Path slowly began to collapse with greater pressure from the military and the capture of Abimael Guzmán, but it would be almost 10 more years before the party truly disintegrated into smaller, less influential groups.

Today, the people of Peru and especially Ayacucho remember these years with deep sadness and pain. They remember the anxiety of a time when no one could sleep peacefully, a time when fear ruled. They remember the government and international community turning a blind eye to their suffering. They remember fleeing to other regions and cities, leaving behind family, lands, and animals. Yet most importantly, they will always remember the thousands of people who were victims of violence, kidnapping, and murder.

Speaking with locals, I found that they want others to be educated about the evils that occurred, yet they no longer want their home to be defined by these experiences.  Locals want their city and region to be remembered for what it offers, for the various pre-Incan cultures who ruled there, for their unique contributions to art and music, for the battle site where Peru won its independence, and for its kind and humble people.

Ayacucho Today

At 9,058 ft. (2,761 m.) above sea level, the Andean city of Ayacucho lies between rolling hills and farmlands. If you decide to brave the long, windy, 10 hour bus ride from Lima, you’ll experience firsthand the natural beauty and geographical isolation of the region.

Like many Peruvian cities, Ayacucho, a town of over 180,000 people, is quickly growing and houses continue to pop up on the surrounding hillsides. The tourist lookout, Mirador de Acuchimay, which was originally constructed at the edge of the city, now stands smack in the middle. As one local pointed out, you now have to turn 360° there to see the city in its entirety.

Inside the City

As you begin to explore the city, the central plaza (plaza de armas) is unavoidable. The colonial architecture, well-maintained gardens, and central statue resemble those of Cusco. But as one local proudly commented, “We should begin saying Cusco resembles Ayacucho, not the opposite,” believing Ayacucho was Peru’s true historical and cultural origin.

Entering the main cathedral dating back to 1672 is worth your time, and for a fee of 10 soles ($3) you can receive a tour of the museum and crypt and climb the bell tower for a wonderful view of the city and plaza. The museum is home to church artifacts as well as a Peruvian painting of the Lord’s Supper with traditional foods like guinea pig on the table. If you’re still interested afterwards in visiting more colonial churches, don’t worry. Sometimes known as the city of churches, Ayacucho has over 30 other cathedrals and chapels.

After exploring the plaza and city center, we took the short walk to “El Museo de la Memoria.” This small museum is dedicated to remembering the victims of violence during the 1980s and 90s and honoring the courage of those who fought for truth and justice. The chilling exhibit was created by ANFASEP, the organization which resisted violence and worked to locate and free missing or detained persons. Inside is a timeline of events, art dedicated to those who were lost, personal testimonies, and artifacts. The stories of everyday people who disappeared, their photos, and the absence they left behind are especially impactful.

From El Museo de la Memoria, it’s only a brief stroll to the Hipolito Unanue Museum where you’ll find artifacts such as art, weapons, and tools from various ancient cultures dating back hundreds or even thousands of years.

Ayacucho would not be complete without an appreciation of its unique art, especially ceramics and detailed wooden boxes called retablos. Art galleries are located throughout the city containing pieces depicting scenes from the Andean countryside, Catholic religion, or the period of violence. If you’re looking for a souvenir, make your way to the artisan market (Mercado de Artesanías) and find local artists selling their own work.

While in the city, be sure to try typical foods like mote (corn and tripe soup), cuy (guinea pig), alpaca steak, and most notably puca picante, a strikingly red, spicy dish made from a beets and peanut sauce. If you’re in the main plaza, grab a handmade ice cream called muyuchi or head to a Belgian-owned restaurant called ViaVia Café which serves a variety of dishes including quinoa and alpaca.

Day Trip Adventures

These light blue, naturally-forming pools outside Ayacucho have become a popular tourist destination ever since they were opened by locals a few years ago. Although a long drive (3.5 hours), the day trip is an opportunity to see the high altitude countryside dotted with wheat fields and wild agave and cactus.

Upon arrival, a short hike takes you up into the hills, and the view from 11,600 ft. above sea level is stunning.  From above, a small stream becomes a waterfall and cuts through high rock walls where it settles into blue-colored pools. In the sunlight, an optical illusion makes the water appear turquoise due the presence of certain minerals. It’s a rare and beautiful site, and tours from the city (in Spanish) only cost around 80 PEN ($25).

While still under excavation, the Wari site provides a fascinating look into the customs and beliefs of one of Peru’s most powerful and widespread pre-Incan empires. Within the complex, you’ll discover ruins of a sacrificial altar, royal houses, burial and religious sites, and water systems.

The Inca were masters at adopting the best in art, science, and culture from each culture they conquered. It was no different with the Wari. Rock walls from late Wari culture are almost identical to Incan construction you’d see in Cusco, and their water systems are clear forerunners to those of their conquerors. As our guide shared with Ayacuchan pride, “Here we’ll see who actually learned from whom.”

In Quinoa, the heart of Ayacucho’s ceramic arts, you’ll see local artists at work and later peruse shops with a variety of handmade products. Just three minutes down the road is La Pampa de Ayaucho (The Plains of Ayacucho), where Peru won its final and decisive battle against the Spanish. An obelisk has been constructed in honor of the soldiers, and the high plain provides a spectacular view of the valley and city below. We found the trip to be worth our time and money, only costing 40 PEN ($12) for transportation and a guide.

Ayacuchan Pride

Throughout our visit, I enjoyed many conversations with locals and tour guides. As they shared their experiences, I felt both the sadness of their experiences as well as their hope and pride in their city and region.

On our last morning I took a walk into the plaza and was met by a familiar site here in Peru — a local parade. As always, the national anthem began the ceremony.  But then I noted a significance difference. In place of the typical whispers and mumbles, I heard a roaring anthem. The lyrics seemed to rise from a place deep within each police officer, soldier, student, parent, and teacher.  Perhaps it was a coincidence or maybe, just maybe, their voices represented a not-forgotten struggle against terror and a new-found freedom and peace.

Regardless, the words rang strong and true:

“Somos libres, séamoslo siempre…”

 (We are free, may we always be so…)

“En su cima los Andes sostengan la bandera o pendón bicolor…”

(On its summit may the Andes sustain the two-color flag…)

“…a su sombra vivamos tranquilos”

(…under its shadow may we live in peace)

****Disclaimer: “The content of this website is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. Government, the Peace Corps, or the Peruvian Government.”

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1. Question: What are some of the “things” or activities that the people of the Yucatán do for fun?

Answer:

Here in the Yucatán we are most famous for our Mayan Culture and the way that this has been expressed through Archeology and Gastronomy. Chichen Itza was recognized as a wonder of the world by UNESCO in 2007 and is well worth visiting either during the day or at night. At night you can view the Light and Sound show which projects the History of the Mayan Civilization onto the pyramid itself. We also recommend that when you visit you try the Cochinita Pibil; Shredded Pork cooked by being buried underground. Delicious!

2. Question: What’s one thing the public probably does NOT know about the Yucatán?

Answer:

In the Yucatán one can also locate the oldest Church on the mainland of the American continent. The beautiful church of San Ildefonso was built in 1562 and completed in 1598. The Franciscan sect of the Catholic Church built the vast majority of the churches located in the state and this influence has led a unique religious culture which gave birth to many colorful festivals and holidays.

3. Question: Share some aspect of what the Yucatán has contributed to the world.

Answer:

For a long time the State of Yucatán was cut off from the rest of the country and for 4 days was actually independent!  It developed a culture very unique and different to the rest of Mexico known as the Jarana and Trova which have now spread to all of the countries of Latin America. Famous Artists like Armando Manzanero have helped in spreading this beautiful music and making the Yucatán not only famous for its food and history but for its colorful sounds.

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