Vacationers paraded up and down the finely-swept sidewalks. They wore shorts, pushed double-strollers, devoured ice cream and took photos of the cranky mountain peaks. A seemingly endless traffic jam of car-jeep-crossovers-green, maroon, black, red or blue-but all very outdoorsy-looking and many with canoes or kayaks strapped to their tops, honked every two seconds, each making illegal left turns or looking for parking where there wasn't any.