Win Win Situation

Warning: Serious topic. Move on to the jokes if you’re not into this.

This morning, in my sleepy state of mind, I clumsily let my external hard drive drop to the floor. Stupid me. I never gave that little gadget any respect. I tossed that baby around like a leather wallet. I trusted that technology had advanced so much that hard drives were solid state (ie. no breakable moving parts) and would last longer than the Battery Bunny. Big mistake! When I plugged it into my computer, there was no sign of life. I needed to fix it.

I researched and repair prices ranged from $70 to $2k. What a shocker! Thoughts raced through my mind: Do I really need this data? How much is this worth for me to fix? In case you didn’t know, I’m a techie. So I’m going to fix it myself. And even if I fail, I can reconstruct what was there.

Life Lesson
How often do we get a chance to reconstruct our mistakes? Mistakes happen and, as you know, there are big mistakes and little ones. Ones you can fix and ones that are irreversible. You know the old saying: “If at first you don’t succeed, sky diving is not for you.” I used to tell my kids (when they were young) that it was all right to make mistakes and have scars because they will heal and we can learn from them … but I warned them of permanent scars” — scars that will be impossible to change — like murder, losing an arm or a leg, having unwanted pregnancies, etc.

Life Application
In the broader arena, we have the US Presidential elections. In 6 weeks America will decide who will lead the free world. Tension’s rising because (no matter who wins) we know half of the country will think we would have made a mistake. Will we have a chance to reconstruct? Many don’t think so. But, believe it or not, I can accept whatever happens. This is gonna sound weird. Bear with me.

Scenario 1: The next President RECONSTRUCTS and builds — then we have nothing to fear. All will be fine and dandy. That’s good!

Scenario 2: The next President DESTROYS — then more people will suffer BUT when more people suffer, more people turn to God and more people will believe and go to heaven — that’s even better!

So you see either scenario wins. But this is just me. TGIF people!

p.s. I’m asking a BIG favor.
My little granddaughter, Caela, is a candidate for Baby of the Year and (if you have a Facebook account) she needs your vote. Log into Facebook first then you can vote once a day so please vote until this coming Monday. As of this writing she is Number 1 in her category. Thank you for your support.

CLICK HERE TO VOTE and see my grand kid.

“If you believe it will work out, you’ll see opportunities. If you believe it won’t you will see obstacles.” — Wayne Dyer

“Things will work out – maybe just not the way you plan “ — Rick Riordan

“Trust in the Lord with all your heart
and lean not on your own understanding;
in all your ways submit to him,
and he will make your paths straight.” — Proverbs 3:5-6

JOKE OF THE WEEK

Thanks to Norm of Encino, CA

Original art by Raoul Pascual.

Parting Shots

Thanks to Tom of Pasadena, CA

Thanks to Brian of Philadelphia

Thanks to Maling of New Manila, Philippines

Thanks to Art of Sierra Madre, CA

Thanks to Drew of Anaheim, CA

Thanks to Benny of Detroit

I found these:

My good friend (and jokester) Terry and I came up with this.

SUBSCRIBE

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This installment of Three Things is courtesy of Shelley Kekuna, Executive Director of the Kaanapali Beach Resort Association.

1. Question: What are some of the “things” or activities that people at Ka’anapali or Ka’anapali Resort do for fun?

Answer:

Ka’anapali is a diverse vacation destination that can appeal to any kind of traveler when it comes to activities. Not only have we been rated as a top beach in the world, which lends itself to multiple water activities, but the mountains behind us are also rich with things to do.

The beach is generous with sand, snorkeling opportunities, paddling canoe, stand up paddle, surfing, embarking and disembarking of luxury catamarans for snorkeling, whale watching (within season), dinner cruising or a cocktail sunset cruise. When the Humpback Whales are not visiting (May 15 – December 15), We have parasailing, jet skiing and small craft fishing. All of the activities mentioned can be accessed from the shoreline.

Ka’anapali is located at the foot of the West Maui Mountains, which has ziplining, quad riding and lots of fantastic hiking. A helicopter ride over the West Maui Mountains reveals the intricate network of natural fresh water flow that is captured at the top of the mountains, considered one of the second wettest places in the Hawaiian Islands.

Culture is also a big component of the Ka’anapali Beach Resort. Once a place rich in Hawaiian history, many properties offer cultural classes and ways to learn of this history over and above a simple hula lesson.

2. Question: What’s one thing the public probably does NOT know about Ka’anapali?

It’s difficult to name just one thing when it comes to Ka’anapali’s mystery and secrets so I will list them below:

A. Ka’anapali Beach Resort is the original master planned resort in the Hawaiian Islands. After it was developed, it became the benchmark for all other self contained resort destinations.

B. Ka’anapali is rich in history because Historic Lahaina (1 mile away) was once the original capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom, prior to well-known Honolulu on the island of Oahu. Because of Ka’anapali’s location, there are significant pieces of history and legends that center around this special location on Maui.

C. Ka’anapali Coffee, grown in this region on the side of the West Maui Mountains is the largest commercial coffee production in the United States and is shipped all over the world.

3. Question: What has Ka’anapali contributed to the world?

Regional Hawaiian Cuisine! While not the only birthplace in the Islands, HRC is available at all of our F&B outlets, expensive or otherwise. We continue to welcome global visitors and make them aware of the beauty of the culture through the amazing cuisine, which has change the way the world prepares food, by mixing traditional and inclusive combinations of flavors from a variety of cultural influences.

Ka’anapali has taught the world that it is possible to mix culture, recreation and community in a world class setting. Ka’anapali, Maui is an exotic location with a unique eco system and rich culture that you can experience without leaving the US.

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Their article struck a personal chord for me of the flight of the gallant Vietnamese immigrant  – often simply referred to as the Boat People – as they staked out a new life in my home state of Washington. Seattle, in particular, came to the aid of thousands of Vietnamese refugees fleeing violence and persecution in their own country well-over forty five-years ago. Today, we are blessed to have a Vietnamese ethnic group that is now nearly 70,000 strong in Seattle, and their success is traced back to Gov. Dan Evans. His exceptional leadership established a lasting legacy of the state helping the world’s oppressed seeking refuge. Today, most Vietnamese residents of Seattle are clustered around what is known as Little Saigon, just east of the International District. The strong presence of Vietnamese food in Seattle is marked by the ubiquitous pho restaurants all around the city. But there are many types of Vietnamese soup noodles beyond that well-loved bowl, as well as banh mi sandwiches, dry noodle dishes, plates of rice, and even esoteric preparations of various beasts. Seattle has always been considered the gateway to the Orient, and my hometown continues to be of our nation’s greatest culinary centers due to the rich tapestry of the immigrant experience. There’s a number of recipes in Leo and Nina’s article that still haven’t made it to the shores of the Pacific Northwest, and I am hungry and curious to give them a try. – Audrey

Healthy, Balanced and Tasty: Vietnamese Cuisine

By Leo & Nina Castillo

Ever since we’ve shifted to a plant-based diet our dining options have considerably narrowed. But there’s one particular cuisine that only suffered a minor hit with this change. We’ve always enjoyed Vietnamese food and with our adoption of a plant-based regimen we discovered we still had a lot of options to choose from. For omnivorous diners, Vietnamese cuisine offers a tasty yet healthy alternative.

Vietnamese food is considered one of the healthiest worldwide due to a minimal use of oil and dairy products and a heavy reliance on herbs and vegetables. During our initial visits to this country we would often spot locals sitting beside heaps of green veges plus a variety of herbs while dining. Vietnamese cuisine is also characterized by an excellent balance of aromatics, heat, sweetness, saltiness and sourness.

Vietnamese cuisine is one of our top 5 favorite international fares and is now one of the most popular around the planet. While we no longer travel to Vietnam as often as before, a good number of authentic Vietnamese restaurants in the Philippines have allowed us to continue savoring Vietnamese fare. (What we do miss, however, is Vietnamese street food, one of the true highlights of traveling in Southeast Asia.) The following are some of the dishes we have sampled.

Pho (Phở)

Pho is easily the most popular Vietnamese food globally. A French-influenced noodle soup originating from Hanoi in the early 20th century, pho is made with flat rice noodles, herbs (mint, coriander and others), meat (typically beef or chicken) and tasty broth. Pho is also topped with bean sprouts and other vegetables. We often add Hoisin and chili sauce to the mix for more pep. Our transition to a whole-foods, plant-based diet did not stop us from enjoying this noodle soup since vegan pho may be found in almost any Vietnamese restaurant in Manila.

Banh Mi (Bánh mì)

It’s almost as popular as pho worldwide and perhaps the most conspicuous proof of French influence on Vietnamese cuisine. Originating from Vietnam’s southern regions, banh mi is a crusty baguette filled with layers of meat (traditionally pork but also with myriad variations of other meats), radish and carrot pickles, cucumbers, cilantro, pate and mayonnaise. This might be head-scratching but in about 10 trips to Vietnam before last year only Nina ever got to sample a banh mi once – at a street cart in Da Nang. Leo got his first taste of banh mi at a Vietnamese sandwich shop in Linda Vista, San Diego and fell in love with it instantly. Our shift to a plant-based diet wasn’t a deterrence since vegan banh mi is sold in many Vietnamese restaurants here in the Philippines.

Bun Cha (Bún chả)

This is a dish we encountered fairly recently on a trip to Hanoi where it is believed to have originated. Bun cha is charcoal-grilled pork served over a plate of vermicelli noodles, herbs and green leafy veges such as lettuce, perilla, cilantro and mint. It’s also eaten with a side of deep-fried crab spring rolls and a dipping sauce.

Banh Xeo (Bánh xèo)

Another French-influenced dish, banh xeo is a crispy, savory crepe made with fried rice flour batter stuffed with pork belly slices, shrimp, green onions and bean sprouts. Our first encounter with banh xeo was at our old office in Baguio City where visiting Vietnamese colleagues prepared several of them. We liked it so much we each consumed 3-4 pieces. However, our Vietnamese friends looked at us in disappointment and asked us if we didn’t enjoy it. Later we understood why. When it was their turn to eat, each one polished off 10 of the savory crepes. That they could eat this way and yet remain svelte and slim was a source of envy for us.

Goi Cuon (Gỏi cuốn)

Our favorite Vietnamese salad is perhaps their pomelo and shrimp salad (goi tom buoi) but what we often order as appetizers is goi cuon. Known as fresh summer rolls goi cuon is shrimp, pork, herbs, rice vermicelli and other ingredients wrapped up in rice paper. It is usually dipped in a rich peanut sauce although an optional dip is light fish sauce with spices.

Cha Gio (Chả giò)

This is the deep fried version of goi cuon and is often referred to in English as fried spring rolls or egg rolls. It’s among the first dishes we’ve tasted in Vietnamese restaurants in the Philippines and it very much resembles a local version. Goi cuon is usually made up of minced pork, veges and spices wrapped in rice paper and deep fried to a crisp.

Cha Ca La Vong (Chả cá Lã Vọng)

Another dish from Hanoi, cha ca la vong is a grilled catfish or snakehead fish cut into nuggets and served with rice vermicelli, roasted peanuts, spring onions and herbs. The fish is marinated in galangal and turmeric giving it a caramelized coating after grilling. A dipping sauce made up of fish sauce, vinegar and garlic adds to its flavor. Some folks will also add a bit of shrimp paste with lime juice. We had this in a restaurant at the Old Quarter in Hanoi but a cousin said it’s best eaten at the market close by.

Kho Tộ

During our trip to Hanoi last year we ordered vegetable claypot rice on a number of occasions. Claypot rice is originally a Chinese/Southeast Asian dish of pre-soaked or sometimes partially cooked rice finished in a clay pot with other ingredients. The rice develops a tasty crust in the process.

Rice Plates and Veges

Rice plates served with meat or vegetables or a combination of both is a staple in Vietnamese cuisine as in other Southeast Asian countries. One such dish that we encountered in Ho Chi Minh City is com tam. This dish originated among poor farmers who utilized broken rice fragments damaged during the milling process. During the mid-20th century enterprising South Vietnamese adapted it to cater to foreign visitors, even serving it on plates with a fork instead of in bowls with chop sticks. The com tam of today is usually a bed of rice with greens and different types of meat with grilled pork as the most common.

Vietnamese Iced Coffee (cà phê sua dá)

A beverage with French influence, is cà phê sua dá or Vietnamese iced coffee. This is strong coffee served with a generous serving of crushed ice and sweetened with condensed milk. We’ve tried this in restaurants outside Vietnam but have ended up disappointed for the most part. The best cà phê sua dá we’ve had is still to be found – no surprises here – inside Vietnam itself.

Egg Coffee (Cà Phê Trứng)

This is a relatively new concoction made with egg yolks, sugar and condensed milk. Some people will tell you it’s the best coffee in Vietnam. We’ve tried this just once along with coconut coffee in Hanoi. A more exotic coffee is civet or weasel coffee, an increasingly popular coffee in Southeast Asia and said to be the most expensive of its kind in the world. We didn’t try this in Vietnam but bought a few packets of ground coffee to take home but are now regretting this purchase. We learned later that while civet coffee was initially made by collecting coffee beans eaten by civets in the wild, many countries have turned to using civet cats held captive in deplorable conditions due to the high demand.

With several Vietnamese restos here in the Philippines hardly a month passes by that we don’t visit one, especially since Leo needs to have his banh mi fix at least every month. Even with the quarantine imposed due to Covid19 these restaurants can deliver dishes right at our doorstep ensuring that Vietnamese cuisine won’t be leaving our palates in a long while.

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My charming tablemate, Shelley Kekuna, Executive Director of the Kāʻanapali Beach Resort Association, explained that Kahekili II actually jumped from around the corner of where the evening dive is performed today as it was  Pu’u Keka’a‘s highest point. Indicative of Hawai’i embracing its past and still emulating the Islands’ culture of the present, the contemporary Kāʻanapali Beach Resort diver stands at the top of the cliff each evening at sunset, recites a Hawaiian chant, offers a torch and lei to the ocean, then leaps into the sea. Kahekili’s feat of legend has spread throughout the globe for lele kawa is now a world-wide sport. This was only the beginning of what would prove to be an enchanting evening at Huihui, the Kāʻanapali Beach Hotel’s new beachfront open-air restaurant.

As I sipped Huihui’s Navigator cocktail, local Maui musicians gently serenaded us in the background. The waitstaff carefully pointed out its signature dishes and ingredients on the menu, but never too busy to throw in a bit of history. I was impressed how the restaurant embraced traditional Hawaiian food items of the past to a fusion of healthy recipes of the present.

The menu was orchestrated by Chef Tom Muromoto, Huihui’s award-winning executive chef at Kāʻanapali Beach Hotel. Born and raised in Hawai’i, Chef Muromoto developed a lifelong understanding of the islands’ ethnic diversity, ultimately combining Hawaiian culture and Native Hawaiian diet, creating a style of Hawai’i Regional Cuisine that is uniquely his own. When designing his new dishes, he looked back to when traditional Hawaiian foods were simple, natural, and never overdoing it. His mission is lofty, where Huihui’s signature items reflect the practice of Polynesian navigation and migration, using ingredients of the sea, ingredients used to sustain themselves on their brave voyages from the Marquesas Islands, approximately 300 to 600 AD, with a second wave 400-years later, by way of Tahiti.

The ingenious Polynesian explorers were ultra-sophisticated sailors, with a highly complex navigational system based on the observation of the stars, ocean swells and flight patterns of birds. Their primary vessel was a 50 to 60 feet long canoe, consisting of two hulls, connected by lashed crossbeams.

A precursor to the modern catamaran, the sails were made of matting drove. Long steering paddles enabled the mariners to keep it sailing on course. The canoes could accommodate roughly two dozen people, food supplies, livestock of pigs and poi dogs, and planting materials, essential for the long expeditions and the eventual founding of new island colonies. Like athletes, they would go into vigorous training prior to voyages, even conditioning their bodies to deal with less food and water.

Moanaku’inamoku Voyaging Academy

Huihui also functions as a sailing academy dedicated to the ancient Hawaiian art of voyaging. The new Moanaku’inamoku Voyaging Academy expresses the theme that the ocean that connects islands together, which provides an authentic experience of Hawaiian wayfinding for guests and community members.

WHAT WAS ON THE TABLE

Navigator Cocktail: Fid Street Gin (Hāli‘imaile Distillery), Blue Curacao, Ali’i Kula Lavender reduction spray, Maui Bees Honey, fresh squeezed lemon juice, topped with sparkling tonic water.

Today, many associate tropical drinks with Hawai’i. But the Piña Colada from Puerto Rico and the Mai Tai, invented in 1944 at Oakland, CA’s Trader Vic’s, are both made from Caribbean rum. The Mai Tai (Maita’i means good in Tahitian) was such a success in mainland North America that Trader Vic’s introduced it to the Hawaiian Islands. Orange and pineapple juice was added to the cocktail constituting the birth of the Royal Hawaiian Mai Tai. The Ka’anapali Beach Hotel boasts the Hawaiian version, but also Huihui’s refreshing Navigator, made with Maui produced gin and additional Maui products.

Molokai Venison Poke: Smoked and wok seared venison fresh from Molokai, pickled ogo (seaweed) & onions, scallions, tomato, nīoi (Hawaiian chili pepper) lemon soy dressing.

Poke (poh-kay) is a dish generally made with chopped sashimi, commonly fresh cubes of ahi/tuna, marinated in soy sauce and sesame oil, and mixed with Kula Onions. But, you’ll find many variations around Hawai’i, which include venison from Axis deer, brought to Moloka´i in 1868 from India as a gift to King Kamehameha V. In 1959, the deer was introduced to Maui, where it has caused a problem due to overpopulation — so don’t feel bad upon devouring a few bites.

Kula Onions: Fried thinly sliced onions, seasoned flour, nīoi (Hawaiian chili pepper) aioli, furikake.

Also known as the Maui Onion, this sweet onion is named for the growing region of Kula, (sometimes referred to as Upcountry). Nestled on the green upper slopes of Haleakala’s dormant volcano, Kula Onions are one of the first spring onions to appear and are considered one of the sweetest varieties in the world. Kula is also endowed with colorful flower farms, botanical gardens, expansive farmland and ranches with grazing cattle. And all this with views of Pacific in the distance.

Lāwalu: Traditional lāwalu (wrapped in ti leaf and grilled) is a cooking method of grilled banana leaf wrapped daily i’a (fish), creamy abalone sauce, cilantro, pohole (fiddle fern) & ogo (seaweed) relish.

Traditional Hawaiian llāwalu are ingredients bound in ti leaves for cooking. The ti plant, an emblem of high rank and divine power, is referred to as a canoe crop, brought to the Islands by the early Polynesians. Considered sacred to the Hawaiian god, Lono, and to the goddess of the hula, Laka; the plants are often planted around homes to ward off evil and bring good fortune.

Koala Lamb Chops: Marinated lamb, inspired by the traditional kō‘ala (barbeque) cooking method, seasonal papaya or mango mint relish.

Sheep, goats, and cattle were introduced to Hawai’i in the late-1700s by European explorers. Pryor to that there were no grazing or browsing mammals anywhere in the islands.

The Big Island of Hawai’i is world-renowned for its Kona coffee, but today Kāʻanapali Coffee, grown in the West Maui Mountains, is the largest commercial coffee production in the United States. The variety of Arabica coffee beans seduce your scenes and demand a second cup. West Maui has more than 50 coffee estates just a short drive away from the Kāʻanapali Beach Resort.

The following hot, but pleasant afternoon, I strolled through the Ka’anapali Beach Resort, and noticed a small structure serving shave ice. Yes, shave, not shaved. The line was long, but well worth the wait for shave ice has long been my favorite refreshing snack throughout Hawai’i. Connected to Hawai’i’s agricultural past with the advent of plantations, workers used to have only Sundays off from a week of labor, and would carry blocks of ice, sweetened with pineapples and sugar canes syrups from which they had planted.

More on Hawaiian History, Food and Culture

“In Hawai’i our diversity defines us, rather than divides us.“

— Former Governor Neil Abercrombie

When British Captain James Cook and crew first arrived in what is today’s Hawaiian Islands (circa 1778) he found a civilization of strong, healthy, and statuesque people; a population believed to have typical life spans as high as 70 or 80-years-old, with the British only making it to 40 or 50. Cook noted that he came in contact with the oldest people he had ever seen, some thought to be around 100-years-old. According to archaeological research by Dr. George Kanahele: The traditional Hawaiian diet was one of the best in the world. It was a simple, high starch, high fiber, low saturated fat, low sodium and low cholesterol diet which focused on taro, poi, yams, breadfruit, greens, seaweed, fruit, and small amounts of fish.

In a past culinary press trip to Hawai’i, I recall a representative from Kaua’i informing me that there was virtually no indication of obesity prior to the British and Euro-American invasions. But obesity would soon arrive by way of food items from grizzled New England whalers, strict protestant missionaries and unscrupulous plantation owners. They also brought European diseases in which native Hawaiians had no immunity, killing 90% of the population. In the Marquesas Islands alone, it is believed that 98% of its people perished due to various pandemics. It is a tragic story that existed throughout the New World’s Columbian Exchange, a tragedy which history often prefers not to mention.

As foreign plantation owners began building their own empires with factories for sugar cane and pineapples — both imported today — the population had been decimated to such an extreme that the money-mad owners scoured the globe for much needed workers. And the new workers migrated by the thousands, primarily from Japan, China, the Philippines and Korea. Portuguese paniolos (cowboys) arrived in the islands after Captain George Vancouver — one of Cooks’ first mates on his final voyage, along with William Bligh of HMS Bounty fame — gifted six cows and a bull to King Kamehameha I in 1798. Kamehameha created a 400-acre pasture and issued a kapu (forbidden) on killing cattle so that they could grow in numbers, leading to approximately 25,000 wild cattle. The experienced Portuguese paniolos taught Hawaiians how to run a ranch, and also introduced the Malasada donut to the islanders.

A new class of the Hawaiian impoverished was created, as in the North American mainland, who consumed easy to find, often inexpensive, fattening canned foods, with spam the most popular. (Curiously, 90% of all spam produced in the U.S. today is eaten in Hawai’i). Fast food restaurants would soon follow, where the Golden Arches offered their own twist on the Hawai’i menu with saimin noodles (inspired by Japanese ramen, Chinese mian, and Filipino pancit) and McTeri Delux (a teriyaki burger made with a Japanese marinade). Yet, today, with supreme gratitude to Huihui’s Chef Muromoto, forward-thinking Hawaiians and many of the Kāʻanapali Beach Resorts’ restaurants, Hawai’i is the second least obese state in the U.S., after Colorado and before Massachusetts.

Kāʻanapali Beach Resort Association

Kāʻanapali’s three-mile stretch of white sand beach has long been touted as one of the best beaches in the world. Nestled at the foot of the West Maui Mountains on Maui’s southwest coast, Kāʻanapali Beach Resort was established in 1963 as Hawai’i’s first master-planned destination resort. After it was developed, it became the benchmark for all other self-contained resort destinations. The Kāʻanapali Resort is dotted by six oceanfront luxury hotels and five condos and vacation club resorts resting on expansive tropical lawns thanks to the Maui sun and freshwater springs flowing from the mountains. Education is paramount at the resort with many properties offering cultural classes to learn more about Hawaiian history, spirituality and intense devotion to the land and sea.

Kāʻanapali’s diverse destination can appeal to any kind of active traveler. The beach lends itself to snorkeling, paddling canoe or stand-up paddle, surfing (Hawai’i its birthplace), parasailing and jet skiing, Humpback Whales watching, and dinner and twilight cruising, all easily accessed from the shoreline.

And the mountains behind the resort are also rich in activities with zip lining, quad riding and hiking, including the historical Trail in Kāʻanapali; an easy 4.40 mile out-and-back trail, paved with history and oceanviews, best to experience during sunset or early morning to avoid the strength of the Maui sun. Yes, there is so much more to put on my Kāʻanapali checklist upon my return, including a revisit to the innovative Huihui restaurant at the Kāʻanapali Beach Hotel.

• Ka’anapali Beach Resort Association
• Ka’anapali Beach Hotel – Oceanfront Hotel in Lahaina, Maui, HI
• Home | Huihui
• Virtual Tour Huihui

The post Kāʻanapali’s Huihui Restaurant: A Cultural Immersion of the Mind, Soul and Palate  appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Editor’s Note: This article appeared in T-Boy two years ago, and also in three part series in the Tico Times, Costa Rica’s leading publication. It serves as a reminder that once the airways are clear again, it will be one of the first destinations I’ll revisit. It’s a nation of stunning land and seascapes, coffee plantations and jungles, national parks and biodiversity – but most of all my return will be to reconnect with the gentile and gracious people of Costa Rica.

Pura Vida in Costa Rica

I’ve been reveling in the warmth of my recent trip to Costa Rica, and not just because of the heat and humidity. This alluring Central American nation of five million Ticos (citizens), roughly the size of West Virginia, consists of just 0.03% of the earth’s landmass, but is home to 5% of its biodiversity. My checklist included hiking misty rain and cloud forests, strolling pristine beaches, witnessing an active volcano, touring a coffee plantation and experiencing unique plant and wildlife – which included my first encounters with a viper and boa constrictor. Yes, there were some bad dreams that night.

Because Costa Rica is located between 8 and 12 degrees north of the Equator, the climate is tropical year round. However, the country has many microclimates depending on elevation, rainfall, topography and by the geography of each particular region. Statistics tell us that Costa Rica has a bounty of 230 mammal species, 890 bird species, 220 reptile species, 35,000 insect species and 9,000 plant species. Virtually half the nation consists of national parks and nature and wildlife reserves. The best time to go to national parks is in the early morning. A guide is necessary to point out important sightings. Upon preparation for your Costa Rican journey, you will undoubtedly see numerous guide books with colorful photos of wildlife. You will be lucky if you manage to see a few. The rainforests and cloud forests are not a zoo, and the animals are on their own time table.

For example, the only time I actually spotted a toucan was outside my cabin in the midst of my own private tropical rain forest, right under the Arenal Volcano. The primary colors of the toucan’s feathers, along with its yellowish orange beak, were so mesmerizing that it almost looked like a painting by Paul Gauguin. As was the active 5,357-foot volcano, which was in view every time I looked out my window.  In 1968 the Arenal Volcano violently erupted, burying almost six sq. miles under rocks, lava and ash; eventually killing 87 people and destroying  three small villages. Smaller eruptions continued through 1998.  A specialist from the Costa Rica Volcanic and Seismic Observatory explained that the eruptions are nothing unusual for the volcano. As a normal precaution, authorities declare a red alert, close nearby roads and evacuate people (mostly tourists) from the immediate area. I made a point of giving the specialist my cell phone number. For the complete celestial experience you can relax in one of Arenal’s many natural hot springs, surrounding the volcano’s base. At night, it’s just you and the stars above.

But, above all, it was the gentle charm and hospitality of the Ticos themselves which affected me the most. They seem to have graciousness in their DNA. Costa Rica has literacy and life expectancy rates higher than the US, and with no standing army. The former military budget is dedicated to providing health care services and education. This has resulted in a nationwide cultural phenomenon where Ticos are uncomfortable with any form of personal aggression or confrontation. The motto, Pura Vida! (‘Pure Life’), is an expression used in various contexts, reflecting the Tico’s philosophy of a simple life, free of stress and a positive, relaxed feeling. It can be used as everything from “hello” or “awesome” to “all is well?” I vividly recall a woman running over to assist my photographer who was struggling with changing her shoes on the beach. Asking for directions always ended in a handshake, and wait staff employees at sodas (little cafés) were happy to share their personal narrative when ordering a meal.

Backstory

Pre-Columbian Costa Rica was populated by 400,000 Amerindians. The various tribal nations seemed to be a cultural mix, influenced by the Mesoamerican civilizations of north Central America and the Macro-Chibcha civilizations of northern South America. Columbus arrived on his fourth and final voyage in 1502; the result of repairs to his vessel, off the coast of Limón. Greeted by welcoming tribal chieftains, he noticed gold and silver worn by some. He made a wrong assumption that this was a place of plenty. He proclaimed this new land as “Costa Rica” (“Rich Coast”), which led to the arrival of full force Spanish conquistadores in search of bountiful treasures – but there was virtually nothing to be found. Plus, the remaining Tribal People – most had died due to warfare and the spread of European diseases – would not adhere to the usual barbarous Spanish practice of encomienda  (forced labor). Costa Rica was described as the poorest and most miserable Spanish colony in all of the Americas by the Spanish governor. Most of the Spanish left in search of wealthier lands, while the remaining settlers headed for Central Valleys, where they found rich volcanic soil, ideal for farming, with no choice but to work the land themselves.  This period of history created the foundation for Costa Rica’s development as a more egalitarian society than the rest of Central America, resulting in a rural democracy with no oppressed mestizo or Amerindian class. After the final Spanish defeat in the Mexican War of Independence (1810–21), Spain declared the independence of all of Central America. Called the Federal Republic of Central America, Costa Rica eventually broke away and established its own democratic nation in 1838.

Since the late 19th century Costa Rica has experienced two significant periods of violence. In 1948, a six week civil war broke out between liberal and conservative forces that left 2,000 Costa Ricans dead.  The liberals won the bitter war. A new constitution was enacted which abolished the army, desecrated the country, granted women and Afro-Costa Ricans the right to vote, thus creating a stable democracy, progressive social policies, free compulsory public education, high social well-being, and emphasis on treating all citizens equally. In 1987 President Oscar Arias Sanchez won the Nobel Peace Prize for brokering a peaceful agreement between the peasant-class Sandinistas and US supported Contras, a remnant of the brutal Nicaraguan regime of President Anastasio Somoza. A covert CIA airfield just across Costa Rica’s northern border was quickly abandoned, which led to a nation-wide celebration where children planted trees on the empty airfield.

San José: Your journey will probably begin with a flight to the capital city of San José, due to its direct access from many US cities. Located in the center of the nation, peopled by 1.035 million citizens, San José’s densely packed urban center almost felt like a third-world city. Wealthy expiates generally live in self-contained guarded communities in the hills, complete with barbed wire as protection. Many visitors use it as an one-night stop-over, and then head for their destinations of choice. I had been warned: as a new capital city it is a bit charmless, with only a few examples of colonial architecture, museums, historic government buildings and grand boulevards. I took a midnight stroll on Saturday and another one the next morning. Contrary to popular opinion, it was a great experience. I felt safe and enjoyed the colorful Main Market and sense of life on the streets of Costa Rica’s largest city. My hotel, located a block away from the city center, was buttoned up like a fortress, with steel shutters blocking the parking area. It was almost midnight and I must have driven four times around long blocks to find the unassuming locked entrance with barely a small sign. But, once inside, I was greeted by the manager who was helpful and hospitable, serving almost like an ambassador. This was my first indication of the kindness of the Ticos.

Don Juan Coffee Tour: What nation leads the world in coffee consumption? Did you know the lighter the bean, the more caffeine?  Or, that vanilla needs to be added to the cacao bean in order to transform it into chocolate? All this and more is what I learned at the two-hour Don Juan Coffee Tour. Located in the rich coffee country hills of Monteverde, you’ll receive a real taste of coffee education from touring the plantation’s sprawling coffee fields to the processing of the beans. The tour also includes turning Don Juan’s cacao beans, whose birthplace is pre-Columbian Central America, into chocolate. Aztec Emperor Montezuma II reportedly drank 50 flagons per day of the liquid chocolate (ocōlātl), mixed with water, honey and dried chili pepper.  Visitors are welcome to participate in the process from grinding coffee beans to pounding the cacao into a paste. As an extra treat, you’ll receive coffee, chocolate and limeade tastings, made from the plantation’s sugar canes. BTW, Finland leads the world in coffee consumption per capita. This was my favorite tour in Costa Rica.

Tamarindo Beach: For ocean pleasures, the surfing Mecca of Tamarindo Beach on the northwest Pacific Coast, is a prime spot for surfing schools and sport fishing charters, diving and sunning. This is a location where the locals can be a little relentless selling souvenirs, such as wooden oxcarts (a national symbol), constructed with recycled wood. To the north, Playa Grande beach is a major nesting site for huge leatherback turtles, and forms part of Las Baulas National Marine Park. The mangrove-lined estuary of Tamarindo Wildlife Refuge protects animals such as Howler Monkeys and crocodiles.

Conchita Tours: On the last day, I was able to book a two-hour jungle boat tour with Conchita Tours. Floating through mangrove swamps in the safety of the boat, the highlight was finally spotting a family of Howler Monkeys sleeping in a forest canopy. Their unique howls had served as a soundtrack for my every night. The little critters, though, were hard to capture on film. There were a number of crocodiles lazing on the shore, which explains why the monkeys prefer the safety of the trees.

Did You Know?

The Little Drummer Boy and US Tyrant, William Walker: In 1856, American William Walker and his ragtag army of mercenaries attacked Honduras, Nicaragua and later Costa Rica with the intention of creating a slave-holding empire with himself as its president. With the blessing of US President Franklin Pierce, Walker was successful in Honduras and Nicaragua for a period, then turned his sights on Costa Rica. President Juan Rafael Mora Porras called upon the general population to take up arms and head north to fight against the foreign invader. After routing a contingent of Walker’s soldiers at Santa Rosa, Costa Rican troops continued marching north, following Walker’s army to the city of Rivas. The Battle of Rivas was brutal and fierce. Walker’s men retreated into a hostel near the town center where they commanded an advantageous firing position. Juan Santamaría, a poor laborer and son of a single mother, had joined the army as a drummer boy. A general suggested that a soldier should advance towards the hostel with a torch and set it on fire. Juan Santamaría volunteered for the suicide charge, but with the condition that someone would look after his mother if he died. He then advanced and succeeded in setting fire to the hostel, and was mortally wounded by the enemy. His heroics were the defining factor in the Costa Rican victory at Rivas. Walker escaped, and eventually returned to Honduras in an attempt to reestablish his control of the region, but was captured and executed by a firing squad in 1860. Juan Santamaría, the Little Drummer Boy, is Costa Rica’s national hero. You will see monuments, statues and parks named after him throughout the nation. Juan Santamaría Day, a national holiday, is held every April 11 to commemorate his courageous death.

Coffee is King: By the mid-1850s the main market for high-quality coffee was Britain. The locals drank a watered-down version which continues today, saving the best for export. Most of the coffee was grown in the Central Plateau and then transported by oxcart to a port city. It was a slow and brutal endeavor, compounded by traveling through rugged hills and valleys, thick jungles and torrential rains. It soon became a high priority to develop an effective transportation route from the Central Plateau to the Atlantic Ocean. The Costa Rican government contracted US businessman Minor C. Keith to build a railroad from San José to the Caribbean port of Limón. The railroad  proved extraordinarily challenging due to inadequate financing, tropical diseases, lack of food and poisonous reptiles along the tracks. As many as four thousand people, including Keith’s three brothers, died during the construction of the first 25 miles of the track. Having subsequent trouble recruiting Costa Rican laborers, Keith eventually brought in US convicts and indentured Chinese servants, and finally turned to freed slaves from Jamaica.

Keith had a brainstorm by growing banana fields along the railway’s tracks, which provided a source of food for the workers. The railroad was completed in 1890, but Keith was still badly in debt. With the excess bananas, Keith experimented by running a steamboat to New Orleans. The gamble paid off which resulted in an extremely lucrative banana trade. He soon established the Tropical Trading and Transport Company to increase banana shipments to foreign destinations. Bananas eventually replaced coffee as the king of exports.

Still short of money, Keith eventually partnered with the foreign-owned corporation, the United Fruit Company, which became a symbol of an exploitative export economy. This resulted in a major labor dispute between the peasants and the United Fruit Company, which eventually led to the formation of effective trade unions in Costa Rica

What to Eat

Costa Rican cuisine is primarily a blend of Amerindian, Spanish and African recipes. Dishes such as the tamale and others made of corn are the most representative of its first inhabitants. Spaniards brought many new ingredients to the country, especially spices and domestic animals. In the 19th century, Afro-Caribbeans added a little heat to the flavors, and like the US, each new arriving ethnicity brought their own ancestral recipes along with them.

Salsa: Food is the spice of life, and Ticos prefer their salsas mild and flavorful. The local favorite, Lizano Salsa is readily available at numerous stores.

Gallo Pinto is the national dish of Costa Rica, consisting of black beans cooked with rice, a few spices and petite pieces of carrots and other vegetables thrown in. It can be topped with a scrambled egg, generally served at breakfast. It’s filling, delicious and will vary in every kitchen.

Casada serves as a midday set-meal of rice and black beans, cabbage and tomato salad, fried platanos and your choice of either beef, chicken, pork or fish generally served in a soda, an unpretentious little café and a great place to meet Ticos. Casada means ‘married’ or ‘married man’s lunch’ for it was first prepared by the wives of workers.

Boca is a snack served in a bowl of rice, black beans, small salad, pico de gallo (a tomato based salsa), fried pork bellies, plantains, avocado with tortilla chips to scoop this delicious concoction up. Patacones are twice fried plantains, and a real treat.

Seafood is well represented due to Costa Rica having two coasts, just 75 miles apart. So there is a bounty of fresh sea bass, red snapper, dorado (mahi mahi), octopus, tilapia, bill fish, prepared any way you prefer. My personal favorite was sea bass, cooked in palm leaves.

Beef: Costa Rica is beef country. It’s inexpensive, cut thinly and full of flavor.

Frescos are usually fruit drinks made with milk or water. The fresh fruits are endless: mangoes, papayas, blackberries and pineapples. If you’re lucky, there’s also passion and star fruit. Horchata is made with water, rice flour, cinnamon and chan, a seed that is reputedly to be good for the digestive system.

Beer: Thanks to the early presence of German settlers, Costa Rica has a series of solid lagers, including my favorites, Bavaria and Pilsen. Keep an eye out for the craft beer, Maldita Vida, a deceptively smooth stout with 9.8% alcohol content. Many tourist are surprised to find themselves a bit tipsy after a downing a few.

In 2017, National Geographic magazine proclaimed Costa Rica as the happiest country in the world. Their article included these words: “Costa Ricans enjoy the pleasure of living daily life to the fullest in a place that mitigates stress and maximizes joy.” It  sounds like Pura Vida to me.

Go here for further information about Costa Rica.

For current news on Costa Rica, visit Tico Times

Sign up for Tico Times’ free monthly E-letter

For relocation to Costa Rica

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Sleepy Week

A dear friend of mine called me early this week … by “early” I mean past midnight. He was feeling terrible and needed someone to talk to. He kept me up past 3 am.  I’m a very light sleeper and when someone messes my sleep, it’s hard to get back to my regular rhythm (which is already bad to begin with). So these past days I’ve been feeling jet lagged but without the jet.

Sometimes I would just stare at the screen while my mind went to dreamland. Sometimes I would wake up with my neck craned all the way to the back of my chair mouth open wide. It couldn’t have come at a worse time because I needed to resolve a programming issue. So I took a drug that wasn’t healthy. Yes, I admit it. I gave in to the “feeling” … I took a cup of coffee.

I know what you’re thinking. “What’s wrong with coffee?” I’ve been an insomniac most of my life. But it wasn’t until recently that I realized it was because I was sensitive to caffeine. I shouldn’t even drink Coke after 6 or I wouldn’t be able to sleep. Weird, huh? Coffee in the morning is usually fine but I shouldn’t indulge in it because coffee also raises my blood pressure.

I guess I’m just gettin’ old. But you know what? It’s all good. Better to have jet lag and be sleepy and knowing that you were able to help a fellow human being in his moment of despair.

Be safe, be healthy, and remember to count your blessings if you can sleep soundly because that’s a luxury for me.  TGIF people!

Raoul

Joke of the Week

Thanks to Peter Paul of South Pasadena, CA for sharing this joke.

Video: 3 Little Pigs

Thanks to Art of Sierra Madre, CA.
This is pretty long but he’s pretty good. He knows his English literature.

Don’s Puns

Thanks to Don of Kelowna, B.C. who sent this pun.

Parting Shots

Thanks to Naomi of N Hollywood, CA

Thanks to Rodney of Manitoba, B.C.

Here’s another one from Rodney of Manitoba, B.C.

Thanks to Peter Paul of South Pasadena, CA

THE REVELATION

The post The Looter appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The Enemy

Art called me yesterday and told me he had just returned from the Keck USC Hospital in East Los Angeles. He expected to encounter a mob of Covid-infected people. Instead, the hospital was quiet. Hardly anyone there. He visited several floors and there was no sign of a pandemic. The news has been painting a very dire situation so what’s going on?

Maybe that hospital is an exception. But I can’t help wonder if we are getting fake news. Let’s face it. We live in a world of political, greedy and evil opportunists. You won’t see them if you join the noise of the parade, You need to step back and watch the parade from afar.

I remember when I joined a demonstration against the establishment back in my wild college years. I was in the middle of an angry picket. Since I was pretty tall, I could see the beginning of the line about a hundred feet away. I could see a police regiment with clubs blocking the procession. Then people started to scream in terror. The parade started to split right down the middle. I told my friends who were with me to move to the side. In a few minutes the regiment had reached our spot bashing the heads of the demonstrators. Seeing us standing on the side, they assumed we were just spectators and they left us alone. “That could have been me,” I thought. And for what? I didn’t really understand why I even joined the movement. My friends said it was for a good cause. They said it would be safe. They said so many things that I never bothered to check. I was so sure yet I was so foolish.

Whose news do you follow? Who do you believe? Have you listened to the “dark side?” You may have your set of facts but have you heard their set? Some people are blinded with hate and so sure of themselves that anyone who  holds a different viewpoint is labeled as an enemy. I believe intelligent people disagree because they are not fed the same information and ego gets in the way of honest discovery. That’s when we all lose.

But this is just me.

Keep safe and hold on to your faith. TGIF people!

Joke of the Week

Thanks to Peter Paul of S Pasadena for sharing this joke.

Video: Diego Gets Coffee

Thanks to Mario of Manila for this funny interaction between Diego and the overly-accommodating barista.

Video: The Craziest Bus U-Turn Ever

Thanks to Mike of New York for showing us this insane bus driving test.

Video: A Call From a 13-Year Old

Thanks to Mario of Manila who shared this video. In light of all the suffering many are facing today, there is hope when you see the world in a young man’s eyes.

Video: Mine’s Better Than Yours

Thanks to Jeff of Arcadia, CA for this friendly neighborly competition.

Don’s Puns

Thanks to Don of Kelowna, B.C.who loves puns. This isn’t really a pun but it’s still a play of words.

Parting Shots

Thanks to Maling of Caloocan City, Philippines. A clever idea gone bad.

Thanks to Don of Kelowna, B.C. Don’t be frightened. It’s just me!

The post Poor Bedside Manners appeared first on Traveling Archive.

1. Question: What are some of the “things” or activities that the people of Trieste do for fun?

Answer:

The Triestini are brave people: they sunbathe from February to the last sunburst in November! And they love to enjoy life, tasting one of the 40 different coffee cups or venturing into the Karst for biking, trekking, climbing or just looking for the popular “osmizas,” private houses where you can taste local food and wine (karstic prosciutto, cheese and of course wine). They love to enjoy all the “Dolce Vita” opportunities offered by their historical city located between the Adriatic Sea and the kartic plateau, on the border with Slovenia.

2. Question: What’s one thing the public probably does NOT know about Trieste?

Answer:

Three intriguing clues: Trieste is the city of Barcolana, the most crowded regatta of the world (more than 2000 boats). James Joyce lived here for more than 12 years. Last but not least, Piazza Unità d’Italia is the largest square in Europe facing the sea and, when the weather allows it, you can see the magnificent Alps set on the gulf of the city. A perfect combination! The waves of the Adriatic touch the only open side of the square (over 12.000 square meters), while on the other three elegant buildings rise as a reminder that the city was once the seaside outpost of the Habsburg Empire. And what about Baron Revoltella’s secret used to check merchant vessels reaching the port of Trieste? I suggest you to visit the Revoltella Museum, an important modern art gallery.

3. Question: Share some aspect of what Trieste has contributed to the world.

Answer:

Trieste is also the city of coffee. With its elegant Viennese-inspired historical cafés and considering the amount of cups consumed in the bars, Trieste and its port have undoubtedly contributed to the spread of coffee culture all over the world. In the city the ritual of coffee is that popular that a specific vocabulary dedicated to order it has developed in time: try to ask for a “capo in B” or a “gocciato”! There is something interesting at all levels: you can make guided tastings of various blends or learn how to prepare the perfect espresso attending the only master class in the world that trains experts. Moreover the city has also contributed to the world as a hub for science thanks to all the research organizations and institutes in the city. This made possible that the city was finally selected to host the EuroScience Open Forum, the most important European event dedicated to science, technology, society and policy. The event will take place from 4 to 10 July 2020.

The post Three Things About Trieste, Italy appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Recently I visited Berlin and Warsaw – the former an established European capital, the latter lesser-known but equally sophisticated.  It was an opportunity to relax, speak grammatically incorrect German, devour pierogies by the dozen.

But more than anything, it was a welcome respite from the nonstop circus American politics has become.  I needed a Trump timeout.

Instead, what I got were even more reasons to feel embarrassed as a citizen of the self-proclaimed greatest nation on Earth.  America has fallen behind in far more than politics. We’ve fallen behind in everyday life.

1. America is a second-world country.

Upon visiting Europe, America’s rabid patriotism seems woefully misplaced.  Like a die-hard sports fan too busy waving a “We’re #1” foam hand to notice his team getting clobbered, we’ve brainwashed ourselves into believing our place atop the free world remains unchallenged, let alone unsurpassed.

But infrastructure doesn’t lie: the proof is in the pavement.  And the trains. And the sanitation system. And the state of public buildings, parks and plazas.

The European trip marked my first 10-day stretch in recent memory without hitting a pothole large enough to bat an eyelash, let alone loosen a cavity filling (SEE: Parkway, Garden State).  Transit trains in both cities were quieter, cleaner and more frequent than their decrepit NYC-area counterparts.  They are also more modern: platform signs post remaining wait times, a 21^st Century touch for (go figure) the 21^st Century. Europe isn’t ahead of the times; America is behind them.

That Europe is greener than America – where a major political party denies the indisputable science of climate change – was no surprise.  Instantly notable is the smart segmentation of public receptacles, with different bins for glass, paper, plastics and traditional garbage. That something so obvious and easy is beyond us is shameful.

Finally, it’s remarkable how everything in the Old World seems newer than the New World.  Granted, both Berlin and Warsaw were decimated by World War II and therefore largely rebuilt; but the absence of dinginess in both cities is stunning and, as an American, unsettling.  As I enjoyed a free Chopin concert at a pristine Warsaw park, I wondered how a city barely a generation removed from Soviet-era poverty boasted public institutions more appealing than my native New York, the self-proclaimed capital of the world.

2. American media is more sensational and less substantive.

Traveling to Germany and Poland, it doesn’t take an in-depth, multi-lingual analysis of Der Spiegel or Gazeta Wyborcza to determine that, by comparison, American media outlets are more sensationalist and less sophisticated.  This notion was readily apparent by turning my hotel room TV to one channel: CNN International.

Doing so provided an apples-to-apples comparison between the over-produced, graphics – and chyron-laden hype-fest blared into American living rooms, and the lower-key, more thoughtful newscast I enjoyed after a day of sightseeing.  Same logo, different IQ level.

Gone were the 12-person panels, the six-way split-screens, the insufferable faux gravitas of lightweights like Wolf Blitzer.  In their place were longer segments with fewer talking heads – a setup less prone to superficial personality clashes and more conducive to actual substance.

An educated guess tells me that CNN International didn’t spend months speculating over a missing airliner or, more consequentially, give a charlatan like Donald Trump hours on end of commentary-free publicity to lie his way to the world’s most powerful office.

CNN International’s featured prime time anchor?  The highly regarded, no-nonsense Christiane Amanpour.  Back in the good ol’ U S of A?  Anderson Cooper.  Not bad… bad not Amanpour, either.  Why isn’t an American news network’s top talent headlining in the United States?  Probably because American attention spans aren’t long enough to finish reading this sente…

3. American pastries are too sweet, and our coffee is swill.

You can tell a lot about a culture by what people eat in the morning – what they wake up to, what they grab en route to the office to start a busy day.

Germany and Poland both have donut-esque pastries, providing a natural comparison with Dunkin’ Donuts, the northeast’s ubiquitous morning stop.  The primary difference is evident at first bite: European pastries are far less sweet.

I could taste the dough, the fruit filling… the other ingredients.  I didn’t feel it necessary to order my doughnut with a side of insulin or a belt extension.  Americans are eating the doughnut version of CoCo Puffs: tasty yes – but meant for children.

Some coffee to go with your berliner or pączki? You’re in for a treat. Both countries had chain coffeehouses with java that struck a Goldilocks Zone between the two American mainstays of Dunkin’ Donuts (often too light) and Starbucks (often too burnt).

It’s a minor yet telling detail: the quality of simple staples like pastries and coffee is simply higher in Europe.  We’ve become accustomed to, and tolerant of, inferior food products – even those we consume daily.  What we feed ourselves is a bellwether of sophistication, a taste test most Americans fail miserably.

The views and opinions expressed in this article are solely those of the author.

The post Three Sad Truths Traveling to Europe Reveals About the U.S. appeared first on Traveling Archive.