The property (which is part of a group of eight delightful, luxury hotels in Rome, Venice, and Florence) is owned and operated by the WTB Hotels Collection. (Why The Best, in case you are wondering.) And the head corporate honcho (chief timekeeper?) is a watch aficionado, who has infused each of his three L’Orologio properties with a unique décor that showcases a plethora of impressive watch-related accessories, sprinkled throughout the inspiring and comfortable design. You’ll never be too far from a dazzling timepiece.

The intimate (43 rooms and suites) Rome property sits comfortably in the Sant’ Eustachio neighborhood, not too far from Largo di Torre Argentina, the Pantheon, the Piazza Navona; it is across the Tiber River from Rome’s well-known Trastevere neighborhood (the former Jewish ghetto) and the Villa Farnesina, an impressive mansion built in the very early 16th century and one of the most majestic (remaining) Renaissance buildings in the city.

Upon entering this conveniently-located hotel, you’ll spot the watch theme immediately-large, elegant art works feature classy and classic watches. A lobby coffee table is actually a model of an outsize, imposing Audemars Piguet watch, a yard or more in diameter. So amazing, you may not want to rest your lowly water bottle on the surface.

Several other design elements will not escape you: The illuminated numbers above the elevator glow with back lighting. The black background showcases a white-outlined number, and inside that outline there is a panoply of watch gears and rotary parts. It’s a charming reminder that time marches not only on, but, also, up and down.

When you arrive at your floor, you’ll find the halls lined with stunning, oversize photos of “important” watches. And when you get to your room, you’ll note that the door sports not merely the room number, but a “proper moniker,” referencing a watch movement. In my case, it was room 203, dubbed 2499 Perpetual, honoring a striking Patek Philippe model; between 1950 and 1985, Patek manufactured fewer than ten, and John Lennon owned one of them.

Embedded in the bathroom mirror, there is also a handsome clock, supplying a bit of mechanical counterpoint to the stylishly decorated chamber. As is apparent, the owner and design team put a great deal of thought and heart into this hotel, all aimed to deliver maximum comfort of their guests.

You’ll find the chronometer theme expanded in the fifth-floor dining room, with its outdoor terrace, replete with panoramic views of the city, including the Pantheon.

The cocktail lounge, Santa Cocktail Club Rome, is located here, as well, and you’ll find that the drinks are artfully prepared with house-made reductions and fruity botanicals.

Enjoy a buzzy cocktail at sunset and when you come back in the morning for the plentiful breakfast buffet, you’ll discover the custom-crafted china, again, embellished with the watch theme. Against the snow-white, ceramic background, steel-gray numbers form staccato accents, with an occasional ebony cipher. The dinner plates sport a soft-gray clock face along the rim, inside the large “O” for L’Orologio. The design level is of the highest quality and the attention to detail is unsurpassed, whether in the dinner service or the ministrations of the staff-to organize custom tours for you or to even walk you across the street to the cash machine. Ask about the runners’ walking/jogging workout, an archeology and antiquities guided tour, a fashionista’s shopping extravaganza, or a film-location tour; or create your own guided day out, which the hotel will plan for you.

You will be pampered here, and suffice it to say, you’ll want time to stand still so you can stay forever-eternally cossetted in the Eternal City.

Additional info: hotelorologioroma.com

© 2024 Ruth J. Katz All Rights Reserved

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I woke from a deep, coma-like sleep.  Not entirely sure where I was…the celestial-looking ceiling above me seemed to ooze Heaven. Nimbus poufs of feathery clouds loomed languidly over my head…hints of statuary, or Cupids, or angelic cherubs, sketched in sorbet colors,floated gracefully on the canopy above my head.  Jet lag being what it is, it took me a few minutes to realize I was in a different kind of Heaven on Earth. I was in the Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese, floating on its signature-branded Sofitel MyBed, my body a limp whirl of protoplasm atop a bowl of weightless cotton candy!

As is fairly standard with an overnight flight from the States, I arrived in the early morn to the elegant, superbly located Sofitel, which was mercifully a mere half-hour from the airport. A stroke of luck—and it is rarely the case—the Foreign-Travel Fairy had somehow sprinkled her magic over the reservation roster for that day, and I was able to glide into my room early in the day, shower, and collapse—although I soaked up the stunning view from my room first.

The welcoming staff, perched behind two handsome, geometrically-carved, boulder-like desks, both burnished to gleaming perfection, had encouraged a snooze to re-energize my dazed circadian rhythm.

And I had followed that sound advice, but not before dipping my hand into a few of the clear glass goblets and apothecary-style chalices on the shelves in the intimate lobby,so I could swoop up a few Italian sweets. Then, I waltzed upstairs to my handsomely appointed chamber, where elegant, modern furniture beckoned: A dusty-gray-velvet recamier welcomed my luggage at the foot of the bed—such a refined resting spot for piles of clothing, as I fished for a sleep shirt. All this sophisticated design is from the artful hands of Jean Philippe Nuel, both architect and designer of the property.  He has sculpted a classy and classic masterpiece.  After dousing myself with the sweet-smelling Diptyque toiletries in the marble-clad shower, it was nap time. And sleep, I did.

This charming, five-star hotel is housed in a former 19th-century Roman palazzo, and is ideally located within walking distance of all that I wanted to drink in that first half-day, before I began serious sight-seeing and reacquainting myself with all that is Roman in my half-Italian blood.  Trevi Fountain, Villa Medici, the Spanish Steps (and all its glorious, adjacent shopping), and, of course, the splendor and majesty of the gardens of the Villa Borghese. (For sojourns farther afield, the Barberini metro station is just a six-minute stroll away.)

An intimate hotel by most yardsticks (71 rooms and seven suites), it still offers the more grandiose (included with your tariff) breakfasts Americans have come to expect in Europe, where lavish spreads overwhelm…what shall I have first?  The French toast?  The waffles?  The pancakes?  A custom-crafted omelette?  Cereals? Healthy, home-crafted yogurt, berries, and grains?  Or sinful pastries? No matter what you select for breakfast, your meal will be all the more enhanced and enjoyed because you’ll be dining in the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, Settimo, with a 360-degree view, including St. Peter’s Basilica, the Villa Borghese gardens, and those famous pines of Rome.

The mosaic-laden floor is awash with large botanically inspired garden motifs, created with chunky,stone inlays, in earth tones of raw umber, burnt sienna, and chestnut, or ofsage, pine, celadon, loden, and sea foam.  The lush fabrics on the chairs—saturated turquoise velvet accented with more lavish, forest-green florals-on-steroids—are all complimented by actual foliage. Even the hanging, lantern-style, indoor lighting fixtures are covered in cannon-shaped shades, florid with floral and leafy motifs. If you’re fortunate, you can snag an outdoor table and drink in all that Roman scenery, along with a high-octane shot of espresso to kick off the morning.

If you are enjoying La Dolce Vita completely, then allow that crackerjack staff at the front desk plan your days:  There are family packages available that include gladiator school, gelato workshops, horseback riding, and stargazing like a Roman astronomer; or ask about the hotel’s multi-day foodie tour, created with Lauren Caramico of Davvero Rome, one of the city’s leading culinary influencers and tour guides. Some of the days’ activities in that package might include truffle-hunting, kayaking, or wine-tasting. The hotel can also arrange for private city tours, in a vintage Fiat on the back of a Vespa (I did this and I loved both the Vespa and the guy driving it!).  For fashionista and culinary devotees, there are individualized tours, highlighting shopping and wardrobe-styling (for men and women)a la Romagna, or yoga among the ruins, or cooking classes, among the custom-crafted excursions.Ask about the film-inspired sightseeing tour (think “Roman Holiday,”“Angels and Demons”, and, of course, “La Dolce Vita,” among the many celluloid visions of Rome). There are even special packages for you and your four-legged BFF (Bark in the Park, is a picnic in the Villa Borghese garden; there is also ozone bath therapy Fido and dog-sitters available around the clock.

At the end of the day, though, you’ll be thrilled to return to Settimo, to enjoy sunset and a sun downer. The trip up to the seventh floor is in an elevator that is about as good as an elevator can get, anywhere, courtesy of a fantasy garden on the walls: Floor-to-ceiling floral prints, walls awash with trellises and oversize, lavish, grandiose flowers.I wish I could have had more than two dinners at Settimo, as there was so much more I wanted to sample, but suffice it to say, everything I ate was toothsome, savory, and satisfying.  A lovely menu is available for that aperitivo and dinner, as well.  A sampling of dinner fare: Crispy tuna millefeuille with avocado cream, red radish, and accented with aged Modena balsamic vinegar; velvety Romanesco courgettes, bread crumbs, and toasted almonds; Roman saltimbocca veal fillet, pan-fried with chicory and stewed onions.  And top it off with a cherry crème brulée or traditional tiramisù with crunchy chocolate.  No matter what you order, it will be a winner.

Regardless of how many nights you stay, you’ll want more. This is a tribute to the comfortable, but detail-oriented, service delivered by the attentive and caring staff—and by those angels on the ceiling in your room.

Additional info:  sofitelrome.com

©   Ruth J. Katz  2024  All Rights Reserved

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I have a great affection for swimming pools. Jumping into refreshing, crystal clear waters in Southern California has always had a way to soothe my senses. I’ve noticed when my Pacific Northwest friends and families realized that I had a swimming pool in my backyard in Burbank, some were curious and wondered why someone like me, a former Seattleite with a fondness for rain, should actually have a pool. I would remind them that having a pool down here is not uncommon. In fact, due to the heat, our pools are often not heated.

Once, after an exhausting final lap in my pool, I remembered a story when a former U.S. president was asked what we would like to show Mikhail Gorbachev when he visited Southern California. He said that he would like to take him for a plane ride over the San Fernando Valley to show him that American workers live harmoniously and have the freedom to afford swimming pools. And the former Soviet President supposedly replied, though it was never confirmed, for the plane ride never really happened, In my nation, our workers have the freedom to live without poverty. Yet, they managed to forge a mutual respect between one another, that led to a friendship, a friendship which ultimately thawed the Cold War.

Later, when first lady Nancy Reagan led Madame Raisa Gorbachev on a tour of the White House grounds, she was unable to show her its swimming pool, for a former president had turned it into a pool for the press. Eventually, the former president would find himself drowning in his own pool of remorse.

Fortunately, he was able to swim to the edge of the pool, in realization of the harm he had done to his nation. And, as this is an American story, where past misdeeds generally transition into the good, our former president reinvented himself, and joined the human race. With thanks to John Lennon, for allowing me to mutilate his lyrics in the song, Instant Karma.

The birth of the world’s first Swimming Pool…

The Great Bath of Mohenjo-Daro.

The Great Bath of Mohenjo-Daro is considered the earliest public water tank of the ancient world. Archaeological evidence indicates that the Great Bath was built in the third millennium BCE, soon after the raising of the citadel mound on which it is located.

And the birth of my first swimming experience…

The Green Lake Children’s Wading Pool in Seattle.

In the early days of my Seattle youth, nothing signaled the beginning of summer quite like the Green Lake Wading Pool. With the mercury rising, this little aquatic sanctuary in the heart of Seattle was the premier venue for us kiddos to wade, splash and beat the heat. As an unsteady swimmer, I found its shallow waters to be particularly enjoyable, for my feet could always touch the bottom of the pool.

Through the years, I’ve noticed some pools have themes…

Jayne Mansfield’s heart-shaped pool of love in Beverly Hills, built and designed by Mickey Hargitay.

While others have themes of history…

The indoor Roman swimming pool at San Simeon.

And, with some, you can look up and look down…

The swimming pool on a sheet of glass, at Houston’s Market Square Tower.

But, if it was during lunch hour, you’d barely see a soul on the streets, for most Houstonites have taken a reprieve in a cool, underground city to avoid the blasting heat. Houston’s underground is a bit of a reverse, though, modeled after, Montreal’s own winter underground world, where a Montréaler can simply traverse throughout it without even wearing a cold storage coat.

And then look down again…

The swimming pool used in Steven Soderberg’s The Limey.

This time look down at the vegetation in the Hollywood Hills, but be warned, it’s the swimming pool used in Steven Soderberg’s The Limey, and you might find yourself falling head-first into the ground. That is, if British actor, Terence Stamp has crashed the party and is in the hunt for the murder of his estranged daughter, who he last saw when he was in a British prison very long ago.

You can use a lagoon as your own swimming pool…

At an alluring lagoon in Bora Bora.

The Pacific Ocean island of Bora Bora is a paradise with its breathtaking lagoons, crystal-clear streams, lush jungle vegetation and soaring mountains. Bora Bora provides a genuinely remarkable experience in natural splendor, along with a unique Polynesian culture.

Or at a bay…

Isola di Procida.

In the Bay of Isola di Procida, Naples’ smallest island, is where you’ll find that the people of this quintessential Mediterranean paradise are more than just proud of what they gave to the world: UNESCO certified Pizza Napoletana’s marinara, Margherita, and Margherita extra.

So friends, Romans and countrymen, please take note:  Pizza Napoletana is the first and only real pizza on the globe. Anything else is a mere imitation, despite your preference for its crust and flavor in your mouth. With thanks to Amirali Mirhashemia for the enlightenment and the photograph, via Unsplash, above.

And, if you desire a spa experience in the Land of Fire and Ice…

Iceland’s Blue Lagoon.

Iceland’s Blue Lagoon is the island nation’s number one tourist attraction. Sadly, the Blue Lagoon is currently closed after the volcanic eruption that began at Sundhnúkagígar on March 16, due to its close proximity to the eruption site.

The countdown begins for the selection of the FIVE (5) best swimming pool in the world, but let’s start with an Honorable Mention…

The natural salt water swimming pool at Vancouver’s Stanley Park Seawall.

The saltwater Kitsilano Pool is located at Vancouver’s Stanley Park Seawall, formerly known to the Coast Salish people as Skwa-yoos. The Kitsilano Pool opened in 1931, and was originally billed as North America’s Largest Swimming Pool, with the size of 660 by 200 feet and 2 by 8 feet deep, covering 2.3 acres, and containing 1.3 million liters of water. It was filled by tidal water from English Bay, where mud sharks, octopuses and other sea life were occasionally found. It was designed as a spot for bathers to swim during low tide, and had a sandy bottom until the 1960s, when it was filled with concrete. Over 5,000 swimmers arrived on opening day to experience the new oceanside swimming pool.

The Stanley Park Seawall is a popular running and biking route. On the beach you can watch people fishing, sitting on logs, laughing, chatting, playing music and waiting for the final glimpse of the sun in the late afternoon or early evening. My own senses have always been endowed with tantalizing aromas from Robsons Street’s cutting-edge restaurants, where many seafood entrees were caught that very day at the bay

And at Number Five (5), the graceful and culturally vibrant swimming pool at…

The Costa Baja Resort & Spa in La Paz, Mexico.

As the first 5-star resort in La Paz, Costa Baja Resort & Spa is just ten minutes from downtown La Paz, set on the Sea of Cortez, overlooking a 250-slip double-basin marina and a white sand beach. At the resort and spa, you’ll discover that Baja Lower California Peninsula is much more than the birthplace of fish tacos and hot dogueros, (the La Paz hot dog). You’ll also find margaritas, stronger cerveza, colorful homes, music and folkloric dance and citizens with a higher literacy level than the U.S. Sometimes it’s hard to take it all in with the sun setting on the glimmering Sea of Cortez, which Jacques Cousteau christened the world’s aquarium, with one of the planet’s most abundant ecosystems. But, remember to bring your bathing suit and scuba gear.

La Paz is dubbed The Peace, so not exactly sure why I was unable to notice any murders, rapists, drug cartels and some real mean hombres. Perhaps I was too busy reading that the national cuisine of Mexico was inscribed by UNESCO on their List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. I beg to wonder if any of the rapists, drug cartels and some of those real mean hombres, ever smuggled over the U.S border: corn, beans, tomatoes, avocados, squash, chili peppers, wild turkey hens for Thanksgiving, vanilla, or Cacao beans – you know, the bean which gave the world chocolate. Now, I’ve just stolen and revised a line from T-Boy restaurant critic, Audrey Hart, who recently wrote and revised from Adam Sandlers’ Chanukah Song: “And what do they all have in common? All Mexican!“

Yet, I struggle to understand why La Paz experiences only a fraction of the robbery, rape, assault and murder found in most US cities, according to the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime. In fact, it’s so safe that the infamous drug cartel, Joaquin El Chapo Guzman made La Paz his hideout. And still I wonder, why is Mexico allowing reckless Americans into their country?

Number Four (4). The many swimming pools at…

The Westin Maui Resort & Spa at the Ka’anapali Beach Resort.

By taking a plunge at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa, you will be on your way to a journey through long channels of clear water, where you will swim under water falls, with the destination of a swim-up bar, or, should I say, a secret swim-down bar, hidden in a grotto.

The history of Ka’anapali Beach dates back nearly 250 years to the legend of the king of Maui – Kahekili II – who would demonstrate his bravery by diving 400 feet into the sea from a cliffside Black Rock. Kahekili would force his warriors to do the same; showing him that they were fearless, loyal and bold. The very same iconic Black Rock still stands at Ka’anapali Beach today. The feat is emulated once a day at five p.m., when a diver stands at the top of the rock, recites a Hawaiian chant, offers a torch and lei to the ocean, then leaps into the sea without making a splash. And, after a day of activities, there was no better way to enjoy a five p.m. cocktail hour while swimming and marveling at the man’s heroic dive. PR reps, take note of this brilliant marketing strategy.

Ka’anapali Beach Resort is the original master planned resort in the Hawaiian Islands, and has become the benchmark for all other self-contained resort destinations. Its diverse location can appeal to any kind of traveler when it comes to activities. Not only has it been rated as a top beach in the world, which lends itself to multiple water activities, but the mountains of Maui are behind the resort, also rich with things to do.

Hawaiian Regional Cuisine is available at all Ka’anapali Beach Resort restaurants, which continues to welcome global visitors and make them aware of the beauty of Polynesian culture through the amazing cuisine, which has changed the way the world prepares food, by mixing traditional and inclusive combinations of flavors from a variety of cultural influences.

I’ve always been impressed how Ka’anapali Beach Resorts embraced traditional Hawaiian history and culture; taught the world that it is possible to mix culture, recreation and community in a world-class setting. Ka’anapali Beach Resort, in Maui, is an exotic location with a unique eco-system and rich culture that you can experience without leaving the U.S.

Number Three (3) on the list is the swimming pool at Sun Valley Resort.

The swimming pool at Sun Valley Resort.

As I sat on the edge of the resort’s famous outdoor circular pool, it was so cold outside that I couldn’t see across the surface, due to the fog and steam. I began to contemplate if I would have noticed Ernst Hemingway if he was in the pool, before realizing he was probably pounding away on For Whom the Bell Tolls, in the Ernst Hemingway Suite at the Sun Valley Lodge.

In 1935, Austrian Count Felix Schaffgtosch was hired by Averell Harriman of Union Pacific Railroad to find the perfect location for a grand American resort. It should be noted that the U.S. diplomat Harriman helped seal the Lend-Lease deal between the U.S. and Great Britain in the early days of WWII. After fruitless months of searching the mountains of the west, the count became aware of Ketchum, a dying mining town in Central Idaho. He quickly made a sharp U-turn to Ketchum, and was overwhelmed by what he saw. He immediately wired Harriman with these words: This combines more delightful features than any place I have ever seen in Switzerland, Austria or the U.S. for a winter resort. Harriman rushed over to join him, and purchased 4,300 acres of what was to become Sun Valley Resort. Harriman was determined to build Sun Valley into a resort worthy of its majestic setting, which would include a timeless four-story mountain lodge, complete with a glass-enclosed pool, world-class cuisine, ice-skating rink, impeccable service and nightly orchestra performances. After seven months of construction, Sun Valley Resort opened in the winter of 1936. And the PR was nothing less than brilliant, where Harriman shrewdly marketed the resort to the Hollywood elite, in an effort to drum up publicity. Celebrities such as Gary Cooper, Ingrid Bergman and Clark Gable, were invited to enjoy the resort without spending a penny in their own pockets. The PR spread across the globe and Sun Valley became known as the place of the stars. Soon local wildlife was sharing the mountain with Hollywood royalty. And the resort wasn’t just for relaxation either, as world-class athletes used the mountain for Olympic training.

Ernst Hemingway, an avid hunter and fisherman, was overwhelmed by Sun Valley’s vast great outdoors, which he found both recreational and inspirational, and could also be enjoyed with solitude and anonymity; unlike the new breeds of celebrities today, where no form of anonymity is ever warranted.

And the selections continue with Number Two (2)…

The Engadin Scuol Health and in Bathing Center in Switzerland.

The Engadin Scuol Health and Bathing Center has developed into one of the world’s major health and wellness destinations.

As my eyes took in the spa’s holistic waters, surrounded by the Swiss Alps, it was easy to see that the quotation: A picture is worth a thousand words; an advertising slogan by Fred R. Barnard, was really true.

Scuol lies cradled between the peaks of the Silvretta range and the Engadin Dolomites. This holiday area has retained its native cultural values and natural surroundings.

But, before plunging into its holistic waters, stand warned: never jump into the pool’s spa waters before showering first. You’ll find that North Americans are considered to be somewhat dirty, and, if the staff notices you haven’t showered first, there’s a chance you’ll be issued a one-way ticket back to the Canadian provinces or U.S. states.

Plus, you might miss the historic 2½ hour-long Roman-Irish Bath, a blending of two ancient cultures. The Romans believed in the health benefits of steam baths of varying temperatures, while the ancient Celts enjoyed a combination of bathing in hot water, followed by dry air. This rejuvenating bathing tradition encompasses 10 different stations, beginning with an invigorating massage, and ending with a 30-minute nap with the Swiss Alps as a backdrop.

I’m not going out on a limb when I proclaim Switzerland to be one of the world’s most spectacular tourist destinations. Within an area roughly the size of the state of Maryland, there is such an abundance of awe-striking beauty, recreational activities and cultural attractions that the nation has become a Mecca for visitors of every age and nationality.

The varied Alpine world of the canton of Graubünden is brought within reach by a dense network of railways that offers journeys so scenic that many visitors can’t resist hanging their heads out train windows to bask in a world of lush valleys, sweeping mountain peaks, glacier-fed rivers and lakes. And it is in this spectacular Alpine valley region, where you can witness some of the wildest and most breathtaking landscapes on the globe.

And closes, with the Number One (1) favorite swimming pool in the world…

The Molino Stucky Hilton in Venice, Italy.

At first, it seemed strange that we would be staying at a Hilton property in Venice, but that was before my eyes set on the palatial Molino Stucky, a former flour mill that has been painstakingly refurbished into a swank hotel, but still very much in the Venetian character. While luxuriating by the roof top pool, with Venice’s unforgettable city skyline in the distance, it occurred to me that I was experiencing something that even a Doge in all his glory would find unimaginable.

Earlier, after charging through the congested streets of Venice, I somehow managed to reached the Bridge of Sighs, where the crowd had grown so thick that (ironically) I could barely look above the mandatory Venetian straw hats to get a glimpse of the famous window. Of course, this is the window which prisoners would pass and take their final view of Venice before their descent into the darkness of the dungeons. A petite woman, almost hidden in the crowd, asked me to take a photo of the window with her camera; for she could not see what it looked like outside. As I returned her camera, she politely smiled a thank you and disappeared before I could say goodbye. My own personal sigh illustrated that I needed a break from the sweltering hordes of tourists, and it was best to take a reprieve.

My cruise pass allowed me two days of lodging at the Molino Stucky Hilton, which not only included dips into Molino’s almost unimaginable terraced swimming pool, but trips to Stucky’s Rialto Bar & Lounge, which offered complimentary regional snacks, coffee and the Venetian mainstays of spritz, grappa and Prosecco. Both the rooftop pool and Stucky’s bar and lounge, proved to be a welcoming venue to relax and refresh. Plus, my batteries were soon recharged for a further exploration of Venice’s major attractions. This time, hopefully, with less heat and crowds.

Venice is built on an archipelago of 118 small islands, formed by 177 canals in a shallow lagoon, connected by 409 bridge and remains the only functioning city in Europe in the 21st century where every form of transport is entirely on water or foot. Also the main public transportation means – motorized waterbuses (vaporetto) – which serve regular routes along the Grand Canal and between the city’s islands.

As a city built on water, Venice offers a strong relationship with its citizens in their natural element. So, one of the main activities for a Venetian in their leisure time is to be close to water. Most local people own a boat, either a sailing one, rowing one or with a motor. When summer arrives, everybody seems to take out their boats. There are also many traditional rowing or sailing boats, which were created from the local environment, that can be considered as a piece of art for their design and construction. Besides the great deal of rowing boats in Venice, the most famous one is the gondola, which is conducted in a standing position, something very unique to this city. Even the sailing boats have special shapes in both the hull and the sail, to be able to cross shallow waters.

To keep the boating tradition alive, there are many local associations, along with the City of Venice, organizing various events in the lagoon such as regattas, races, parades, etc. Many of the most important traditional feats, still celebrated in the city – Festa del Redentore, Festa de la Sensa, the Historic Regatta – take place on the water, offering citizens and visitors both sports and culture at the same time. In recent years, there has been an important movement entitled, the Vogalonga, a non-competitive race which started as a local protest against motor wave movements. It has become a worldwide appointment for all sorts of rowing boats. Motor wave movement is still a great issue inside the Lagoon of Venice because more and more people enjoy outdoor weekends between the island of the lagoon and at the sea, using motor boats with speed engines that erode salt marshes and damage the edges of the city.

And, the Molino Stucky Hilton in Venice will always remain in my heart, as well as the most essential stay at my favorite swimming pool destination in the world.

The post The Swimming Pools in My Life appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Ever heard of a Sgroppino? Well, it’s a lemon-flavored, creamy-smooth, frothy alcoholic beverage.

More a digestivo (digestive) or liquid dessert than an aperitivo (cocktail), the Sgroppino was created by the inventive and masterful Venetians back in the 16th century.

Sgropin, as it’s called in the Venetian dialect, means to untie a little knot – the kind one finds in his/her stomach following a rather large meal. Further away from La Serenissima it’s called a Sgroppino, or simply Sorbetto.

Made with milk-free lemon sorbetto (sorbet) and a bit of alcohol, the Sgroppino was served in aristocratic Venetian homes during dinner to cleanse the palate between the first and second courses – normally fish to meat – and to also help digest all that was consumed at the tail-end of the dinner. That tradition continues today, with a few minor twinks to the centuries-old recipe.

Today, the classic Sgroppino is made with lemon sorbetto, vodka and Prosecco sparkling wine. Variations include strawberry, grapefruit or mandarin sorbetto vice lemon, and, for some, a bit of limoncello (lemon liqueur), too.

 Here’s the recipe I’ve tested out at my place and my friends were quite impressed.

Step-1: Thaw-out the sorbetto to a creamy consistency then place in an aluminum mixing bowl and whisk lightly.

Step-2: Pour in the vodka, whisk lightly, followed by the Prosecco and whisk a bit more.

Step-3: Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place the mix in the refrigerator for 3-4 hours.

Step-4: Dampen the glasses and place in the freezer to chill.

Step-5: Remove the bowl from the refrigerator and give the mix one final whisk to re-froth.

Step-6: Pour the mix into the pre-chilled glasses up to the top, garnish with a lemon wedge and some mint leaves, then serve.

The next time, or first time you find yourself in Venice, untie those knots by asking for a Sgroppino, during or after dinner. It’s the Venetian thing to do.

SALUTE!

View the list of travel recipes here.

View the list of past travel recipes at our old site here.

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Photography: Halina Kubalski

Milano, one of Europe’s celebrated destinations with fashion, architecture, and fine dining at the forefront, and conceivably one of the world’s distinguished twofold travel destinations with Lake Como a short 40-mile jaunt, is blessed with 13 NH hotels, one in the town of Lecco in Lake Como, and all positioned in unsurpassed settings. Spanish owned, small to mid-sized boutique properties, tabbed as four-star, we booked three Milano NH hotels for convenience of locality while on a fashion assignment in Milano, and in a way in which to become acquainted and connect with Milano neighborhoods on foot and possibly enjoy some jazz and dancing.

We found the NH recommendations from respected and veteran media travelers were incredibly accurate. The hard-working NH staff were hospitable and impressive, and it seemed that the hotel’s employees shared the same deep veneration for a city layered with fashion, history, and Italian personality. For us, the well-managed properties were just the acceptable size for employee to visitor interaction with small being a limitless and notable asset within the world of hotel hospitality.

Not renowned in the United States, the NH Collection has an exceptional profile in Europe, and Latin America, opening their first property in Pamplona in 1978, and expanding, became one of Spain’s first and foremost hotel chains with more than 350 city hotels. We booked three nights at three NH hotels, the first NH Collection CityLife, a mid-sized property with 185 guest rooms, opened June 4, 2022, on the site of the 1930’s Chiesta Cristo Re church, deconsecrated in 2017. With white columns spiraling skyward guarding an elaborate entrance, first impressions were that of an estate. Ingeniously, the hotel retained much of the ecclesiastical building, as well as the grand entry, the lobby section of the church, and the original wooden doors and arches. The property is carefully designed in the Italian neo-Mannerist style, located in the futuristic and chic CityLife district with several high-end shopping centers, restaurants, steps from the Portello Pavilion, and 100 meters from a metro station.

Straightaway guests appreciate they are visiting one of Europe’s foremost fashion destinations with large framed black and white fashion images of stunning Italian ladies embellishing the hotel’s public spaces that send an artistic welcome to Milano. Our room, 1012, was comfortable and clean, housekeeping being of upmost importance. The linens were high quality, pillows with hypoallergenic synthetic feathers to avert allergies, free Wi-Fi, coffee maker, floor to ceiling windows, and a large television screen. For warm days CityLife has a rooftop swimming pool, a private garden, meeting rooms, and a gym we failed to experience.

The elaborate morning buffet offered a huge touch of hospitality with smiling servers passing by with additional offerings. Later the room converts to Taylor’s restaurant where Executive Chef Gabriele Grisolia creates Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, and selections passed down from his grandparents. A long-time employee, his kitchen suggestions were integrated into the original blueprints. Smiling, he said, “We have a very modern kitchen, and I do love to cook, and at home too. When I’m in the kitchen and examine fresh vegetables and fruit my heart is with my creative thoughts.” A huge block of honey in the breakfast buffet is likewise creative. Grisolia smiling, “It came straight from a local farm and is the tastiest hotel honey in the city.”

General Manager, Riccardo Bombaci interjected, “We work hard to address the visitors concerns. I believe we are a fresh diamond in a city full of diamonds.”
Moving to NH’s Collection Porta Nuova, hosting all of 100 guests, we were within a 20-minute walk to the fashion district, and less than a mile from Brera, an elegant and distinctive neighborhood with cobble-stoned streets leading to art galleries, antique shops, trendy boutiques, clubs and restaurants, and the Academy of Fine Arts dating to 1776. The hotel, elegant and stylish, has an intimate and embracing ambience with an attractive lobby, small stylish cocktail bar, and well-equipped gym. Our room came with robes and slippers and was sparkling clean. With floor to ceiling windows the breakfast buffet stretched the entire length of the room, freshly baked bread, tasty croissants, and local specialties, all tickling the senses. Speaking with General Manager, Baldassare Schembri, 17 years with NH, he said, “I feel we have a tailor-made experience. We’re small and can bond directly with the guests. Travel can be challenging, and we want our guests to find a home here. We’re in the financial district and host everyone from business executives to newlyweds.”

Walking the area, we discovered directly across the street from Port Nuova the NH Palazzo Moscova, opened in 2015 with 65 unique guest rooms. Adjacent to the lobby is Forti, noted among the best seafood restaurants in the city with a 3,000-bottle wine cellar. Around the corner is Sciatt a Porter, a small family-owned restaurant and a real gem. They source their produce from local farmers with original Milanese offerings, home-cooked style.

After six full working days in Milano, we hopped on a 40-minute train ride to Lecco in Lake Como and the 111 guest NH Lecco Pontevecchio Hotel. The hotel and Lecco are a dynamic duo. Managed by personable Alessandra Giovanniello, the hotel is set in the heart of the city, which seemed more like a friendly town to us, tucked between the towering Grigna and Resegono mountains and the Adda River, laced with cycling, hiking, and jogging paths. Lecco, removed from the Lake Como tourist trail has family-owned boutiques, superior dining, and the opportunity to mingle with the residents of Lake Como, yet close to nature and the Lake’s main attractions.

From our balcony in room 308 we had a splendid view of a 1338 Roman Bridge and the Adda River, and appropriately the hotel has a bike room for cyclists, a gym and ironing room. Executive Chef Vincenzo di Bella, 58, is another NH and Lecco highpoint. President of the Federazione Italiana Cuochi, and cooking since age 14, he has a great passion for Sicilian cuisine and designed the hotel’s menu with Sicilian delights. The hotel has a late checkout before 3 p.m. on Sundays but departing Lecco and Lake Como is difficult indeed.

When You Go

NH Hotels are 100 percent non-smoking, free Wi-Fi, dogs and cats allowed. Visitors should allow at least four full days to fully enjoy Milano’s hidden pleasures, and Lake Como is forever. www.nh-hotels.com. Recommended guide, Alessandra Dell Andrea, ww************@am**************.com ; For a personal itinerary for Milano and Lake Como, Travel Consultant and Itinerary Designer, Celia Abernethy. ce***@mi*********.com

We didn’t dance or hear any jazz but did enjoy two of Italy’s most vibrant destinations.

The post Milano’s NH Hotels appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Curated by Ed Boitano

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Dear Italian-American:

I am planning my first trip to Italy. I want to see Rome, Florence and Venice. I plan on arriving in Milan. Friends have told me to quickly bail out of Milan and use it as a place to head out to more historic places. Should I ignore the city and go on my way? — Susan of Portland, OR

Dear Susan:

If you are in search of ancient Roman roads and ruins or medieval cobblestone streets, Milan is not the place. As the Italian capital of fashion and commerce, Milan is the city of now. It’s simply fun to just sip a coffee at Piazza del Duomo and watch tall, fashion clad models rushing off to unknown destinations. Yes, Venice is the city of canals, but Milan still has a few at the Navigli District, a canal area that once connected Milan with Lake Maggiore. The innovative system of locks was designed by Leonardo Da Vinci in the late fifteenth century. One of the canals actually stopped directly in front of the Duomo di Milano, the world’s most brilliant cathedral, which took nearly centuries to complete. With 3,400 statues on the façade, plus 700 marble figures and 135 gargoyles, the pink hued Condoglian marbled Duomo holds the record for the most statues in the world. Back to Leonardo, the Renaissance man spent 17-years in Milan, where his fresco of The Last Supper is available for viewing at the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, but make sure to get your tickets in advance.

Climbing up the Duomo di Milano‘s stairs to its terraced rooftop is mandatory; you’ll see spectacular vistas of the city, the Lombardian countryside and the Swiss Alps, plus be surrounded by angels built on buttresses. Also, just a few yards away is La Scala, the world’s greatest opera house. There’s a chance that tickets might be available; but can be expensive and somewhat difficult to procure. For a glimpse of the opera house’s interior, you might consider booking a museum tour, where mine consisted of watching a pre-opera arrangement of lighting in the theatre and a trip to La Scala’s museum. Outside you can walk through the passageway just like Verdi, Toscanini and Maria Callas did when strolling to and from La Scala.

And a sampling of local cuisine will introduce you to new dishes, unique to Lombardy: Costolette di Vittelo (breaded Milanese veal), saffron infused Risotto and Osso buco alla Milanese.

And, Susan, remember Milan embodies la bellafigura: “ Behaving well and looking good doing it.” With me, they apparently made an exception. — The Italian-American 

Dear Italian-American:

I’m not an Italian rookie, seen much of the sites and want more. Scheduled for another jam-packed trip back – with no Covid – this summer. But never seen Bologna or Parma. Which one should I pick? — Stan of Ventura, California

Dear Stan:

A visit to Bologna or Parma qualifies as a win-win solution. Both cities are located in the region of Emilia-Romagna and are relatively close to one another; 54 miles with 38 trains per day. So, if possible, consider revising your packed schedule, and visit both. You’ll thank yourself, but your increasingly larger stomach may not.

Parma is smaller than Bologna, more laid back, almost in a countryside setting. The city is the birthplace of conductor Arturo Toscanini, his home now a museum, and film director Bernardo Bertolucci. I noticed that the T-Boy Society of Film & Music selected his 1970 political drama, The Conformist as his best movie. It is also the birthplace of Parmigiano-Reggiano, which contains only approved ingredients, then aged at least one-year, and Prosciutto di Parma, a licensed cured ham, made only from the hind legs of pigs, and aged during a dry-curing process. Moderna, nestled between Parma and Bologna on the south side of the Po Valley, is famous for its namesake Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.

Bologna is much larger than Parma. It’s a college town, flushed with students, featuring Università di Bologna, the first and oldest university in the world (circa 1158). Bologna is also Italy’s most educated and forward-thinking city, culturally regarded as the nation’s greatest liberal city. Often referred to as the city of learning, exemplified by its status as the world’s first city-state to abolish slavery. Stan, sure you understand when speaking of Italy as a nation, the unification of the city-states didn’t happen until 1840, where Italy is often noted as a young nation and an old country.

And then there’s the food. Bologna has long been considered the gastronomic capital of Italy. On the Bolognese table you might find Mortadella, Tagliatelle (made with eggs) al ragù, Tortellini and Lasagna. You may be surprised to find Lasagna and ragù heavier and more robust than its Italian-American counterparts.

And, Stan, remember that Bologna is called La Grassa (the fat one) for a reason. — The Italian-American

Dear Italian-American:

Often times when eating at Italian restaurants in America, I notice some people twirling spaghetti with a fork into a big spoon. When some see me only using a fork but still twirling, I receive almost an arrogant look. Am I doing it wrong? — Linda of Cleveland

Dear Linda:

On the contrary, you are using proper Italian table etiquette, while the others are not. In Italy using a fork to twirl ribbon or sting pasta in a spoon is just not done. If you do use a spoon in Italy, the arrogant looks might come from the staff or diners, well aware that you might be a clueless North American, devouring pasta incorrectly. I have addressed this question to many friends and restaurant servers in Italy, and the normal reply is, Spoons are for children!

Linda, I completely understand your confusion; for I too have received those somewhat arrogant looks while dining at an Italian-American restaurant. What can we do? Nothing. The fact that we are aware of the proper Italian protocol by not using a spoon should lead to peace of mind. Simply enjoy your meal and ignore those disparaging looks. Meals are for enjoyment, not for confrontations.

I believe the popular 2015 film, Brooklyn, where the Irish immigrant, played by Saoisre Ronan, was given instructions on how to use a spoon when eating pasta, almost created a blueprint for many of us on Italian-American dining.

Buon appetito! — The Italian-American

This installment of our advice column comes to you from T-Boy’s Ringo Boitano, a second-generation Italian-American, whose ancestral home hails from the hills of Genoa in the region of Liguria. As a lifetime consumer of Northern Italian cuisine, i.e., polenta, risotto, pesto, ravioli, focaccia, and with little attention to his waistline, offers important travel advice regarding the Italian cities of Milan, Bologna and Parma; as well as addressing a question about correct Italian table etiquette when eating long strands of ribbon pasta.

Readers, feel free to ask the Italian-American any question of your choice at **@tr**********.com Also, queries about non-Italian destinations or any form of travel welcomed. T-Boy has an illustrious team of writers with an acute understanding of their ancestral homeland. Next up will be Dear Icelandic-American. I’m curious to learn more about the Icelandic tradition of eating starvation foods.

— T-Boy

The post Dear Italian-American: Travel Advice on N Italy appeared first on Traveling Archive.

We begin the day following the duchess through the narrow passages of the vibrant, noisy Capo market. Nicoletta navigates the stalls with the assurance of a regular, explaining that in Sicily a market goer only frequents certain vendors with whom a rapport is well established. “In return for my loyalty they take care of me,” she explains, as she examines the freshness of an enormous tuna, caught that very morning off the island’s west coast. “I know that when I ask them to filet this fish they will not substitute it with an inferior piece.” Nicoletta shares insights into these codes of Palermitani behavior as we fill bags with almonds and lemons and inspect mountains of tomatoes and eggplants. She tells us about fairly recent times when pickpocketing was so rife that the police set up bureaus in tourist hotels to help victims replace their lost documents. “The idea of trying to stop the thefts did not even seem to be an option,” she says with a smile of resignation. Then she takes an unexpected turn into an alley to show off a brilliant Art Nouveau mosaic, gleaming on a broken facade that stands like a skeleton amid a field of rubble.

Many ruins like this still litter the old city, where Allied bombs leveled streets of fine old palaces in 1943. Others were damaged but have been splendidly restored, and some have been left to molder, their marble staircases and fine woodwork either lost to the elements or carted off by scavengers. The Palazzo Lanza Tomasi survived the bombings relatively intact if a bit the worse for wear. Gioacchino began restoring the palace in the 1970s, dislodging hens from the courtyard and eventually reclaiming a labyrinth of rooms. Now, above family living quarters and a floor of stately salons are 12 charming apartments that the duke and duchess rent to short-term guests.

In the palace garden, flourishing beneath lemon and palm trees on an enormous sea-facing terrace built atop Spanish ramparts, we gather herbs and jasmine flowers, ingredients for the lunch we will prepare. Nicoletta walks us through her living room, a casually aristocratic-looking assemblage of comfy, slipcovered couches and armchairs and fine old tables piled high with books, then up a back staircase to the blue-tiled palace kitchen. There, she delegates tasks as we prepare dishes that combine raisins, almonds, currants, cinnamon, and other ingredients of a cuisine that merges the island’s Arab, Spanish, and French heritage. Her repertoire consists mostly of local dishes she’s encountered around the island. One team chops basil for Pasta col Pesto alla Trapanese, a deliciously simple concoction with almonds, tomatoes, and toasted breadcrumbs that the duchess came across 30 years ago on the terrace of the Albergo Paradiso on the island of Levanzo, off Trapani. Another group prepares a thick chickpea batter for panelle. Nicoletta’s special technique for this street-food staple is to scoop the batter into a narrow can from which both ends have been removed and slowly push it through the oiled cylinder and out one end, cutting it into thin slices that are then fried in oil to puffy, golden perfection. We mash anchovies with mint and pistachios and stuff this aromatic paste into slits we pierce in an enormous slab of tuna. No food could be more Sicilian than tuna, Nicoletta explains. Greek colonists were catching these giants 3,000 years ago, though fishermen no longer stage the ages-old mattanza, in which they lured the fish into mazelike labyrinths of nets and butchered them in a bloody frenzy. Dessert is a biancomangiare, a sweet almond-milk pudding garnished with zuccata (candied pumpkin), more pistachios, and jasmine flowers we’ve gathered in the garden.

Our creations seem impressively lavish as white-jacketed footmen serve us in the elegant dining room, where sunlight gleams off the Mediterranean and bathes creamy walls, oil paintings, Murano chandeliers, and majolica. The duke is an engaging conversationalist who glides easily and assuredly from one topic to another, a staging of the Benjamin Britten opera Peter Grimes to the clumsy restoration of La Zisa, the Norman pleasure palace at the edge of the city where an elderly princely cousin once lived, to the maddening quirks of the little elevator he’s installed in one corner of the courtyard. Nicoletta tells the story of the palazzo, where in the mid 19th-century Prince Giulio Fabrizio used to retreat to observe the stars over the sea. He was the great-grandfather of Giuseppi Tomasi di Lampedusa and the model for The Leopard’s main character, the nobleman Don Fabrizio Corbera, Prince of Salina, who witnesses his way of life changing with the Risorgimento. The historical and psychological upheaval is summed up in what is perhaps the novel’s most famous line, “Everything must change for everything to remain the same.” The author moved to this palace in 1943, when bombs leveled his childhood home, the grander Palazzo Lampedusa. He and his wife, Licy, a noblewoman and psychoanalyst who lost her estate in the Baltics to the Nazis then the Soviet army, lived in a few habitable rooms amid dripping ceilings and collapsing walls. They shared a deep longing for the lost homes of their childhoods, and Tomasi di Lampedusa evoked his sprawling ancestral seat in The Leopard with “A house of which one knew every room wasn’t worth living in.” He spent his days in cafes reading and writing and died of lung cancer in 1957, a year before his novel was published.

After lunch the duke and duchess walk us through a suite of salons and libraries, showing off furnishings from various family palaces and sharing stories: of the duke’s fun-loving mother, daughter of a Spanish diplomat and granddaughter of the governor of Cuba, a grandmother whose pet panther used to jump over the garden walls of her Roman villa, a branch that includes saints and mystics. Pride of place belongs to the typewritten manuscript that made its way around Italy’s leading publishing houses before Feltrinelli brought out The Leopard to immediate acclaim in 1958. Luchiano Visconti directed a lavish, color-saturated 1963 film starring Burt Lancaster as the prince, and a ballroom scene was shot in the Palazzo Valguarnera-Gangi, just a few blocks away on the pretty Piazza Croce dei Vespri. The novel and film and their Sicilian settings are lush and transporting, but not more so than a day with this amiable duchess in her palace.

A Day Cooking with the Duchess classes cost about $180 a person, including a market expedition, instruction, lunch, and a tour of the palace. Large, character-filled apartments, all with fully equipped kitchens and some with terraces and sea views, sleep from two to six guests and rent from about $95 a night. Visit this site for more information.

The post Getting a Taste of Palace Life in Palermo appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Well, I’m still basking in the memories of my cruise experience aboard  Holland America’s ms Veendam.  At the end of each day’s illuminating  tours of the ports of call – Lucca and Pisa,  Málaga, Barcelona, Monaco and Gibraltar – I would excitedly rush back to the vessel to my favorite lounge, the Crow’s Nest, where I’d compile my notes over a crisp, full bodied Budweiser Budvar (circa 1245). The venue was quiet and relaxing, and once again I must commend Holland America for the remarkable  attention to service. I was on a first name basis with many of the staff, who were always interested to hear about that day’s tour. Last month in Part I, I wrote in detail about this floating pleasure palace christened the ms Veendam and the ostentatious culture of the tiny nation of Monaco. In Installment II, I cover the selected highlights of Lucca, Pisa, Barcelona, Málaga and Gibraltar.

Gibraltar – The Barbary Monkeys: Originally from Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, Gibraltar’s Barbary Monkeys are the only wild monkey population on the European continent. Though not confirmed, some believe they were brought to Gibraltar by the pirate, Red Beard. Currently, some 300 animals in five troops occupy the Upper Rock area of the Gibraltar Nature Reserve. The cute little critters are inquisitive and have no fear of humans. Upon my arrival one jumped on top of my car. Foraging for food seems to be their main goal, and they are known to even traverse the streets of capital city below. Due to being tailless species, they are often mistakenly referred to as Barbary Apes or Rock Apes. As an endangered species, Gibraltarian officials keep a sharp eye on them, documenting each individual monkey, feeding them and giving medical examinations.

With Spain at its back, on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula, Gibraltar’s two square miles of limestone Rock overlooks the Strait of Gibraltar, which separates it from Morocco. As a lover of maps, it was exhilarating viewing the African coast just 15 miles away. History tells us that Roman ships sailing west on the Mediterranean would not go beyond the Strait for fear of falling off the edge of the earth.

As a British Overseas Territory, the Rock features 32 miles of tunnels, as protection from Spanish and French forces in their attempt to take Gibraltar back from the British, when they were at their weakest during the American Revolution.  In one surprise attack, the monkeys were disturbed in the night, and alerted the soldiers. This led to the saying, “As long as the Apes (monkeys) remain on the Rock, so will the British.”

During WW II, the British used the tunnels as a garrison to guard the territory from an attack by the Axis Powers. In the early days of the war, Winston Churchill had visited Gibraltar, and was disturbed that the population had dwindled down to only seven monkeys. He immediately instructed that five new females be sent to the Rock. Churchill was well aware of the Gibraltar Monkeys’ symbolic importance to the British people, and feared that the disappearance of the animals would have a detrimental effect on morale – which the British Empire needed plenty of when they stood alone against the Nazis in 1941.

The population of the capital city of Gibraltar, situated at the base of the Rock, weighs in at 4,495. It’s small, flat and easy to stroll, with numerous venues selling all things British. Fish and chips, anyone? At the edge of the city rests the courthouse where John and Yoko were married, and Sean Connery, married twice.

PISA – Leaning Bell Tower of Pisa: Yes, it really does lean. In fact, it started to lean during construction in 1178, before builders had even reached its third story. Over the next 800 years, it became clear that the 180 ft. white-marble cylinder wasn’t just learning, but was actually falling at a rate of 3 ft. per year. This was due to an unstable foundation of shifting soft soil, fine sand and shells – an engineering debacle flawed from the beginning – which could not properly support the structure’s weight. To compensate for the tilt, the next eight-stories were built slightly taller on the short side in an attempt to disguise the tower’s lean. However, the weight of the extra floors caused the Romanesque-style tower to sink further and lean more. Because of this, the tower is curved. Numerous efforts throughout time have been made to restore the bell tower to a vertical symmetry. In 1964, the Italian government insisted on retaining the current tilt, due to the money-making role that the Tower played in promoting tourism to Pisa.  Today, only groups of 30 are allowed inside at once, and are welcome to scale the 251 steps from the bottom to the top of the Pisa Tower. The Tower’s bells have long been silenced as their movements could worsen the lean of the bell tower further.

Throughout the years, we’ve all seen endless photos of the Leaning Tower, but to witness it in person was a monumental occasions. I was unaware that the Tower stands on a pristine green-expanse inside the medieval walls of the Square of Miracles. The piazza is also shared by the white marbled Cathedral of Pisa, the Baptistery – famous for its acoustics, demonstrated by singers daily – and Capuano Monumental Cemetery, made with 53 shiploads of earth brought back from the Hill of Calvary in Jerusalem.

Málaga – Feria de Málaga:  I generally avoid outdoor street fairs, but that was before I joined the Feria de Málag (Malaga City Fair) in Málaga, Spain. I said ‘joined’ for I was made to feel part of the all-inclusive event in honor of the 15th century Catholic Monarchs who marched into the city after 800 years of  Islamic rule. I had never seen such open displays of affection: old friends embraced, strangers kissed one another on the cheek, and Malagueños couples walked hand-in-hand through the maze of the celebrating crowd. Musicians played anthem-like songs, with the crowd singing along, knowing every word. The day time event (there’s also one at night) is primarily based in Old Town along Calle Larios, where shops are beautifully decorated, patios turn into makeshift casetas, and restaurants take to the streets to offer their regional specialties.  The streets are overflowed with parades and shows, including the traditional dances of the Verdiales, whose origins can be traced back to the Minoan civilization. Women are sure to wear enchanting red flowers in their hair and decorative fans while men carry Málaga’s famous sweet wine,  Cartojal, which is poured into traditional fuchsia pink cups. Saluds are made and the laughter is infectious. It’s a celebration open to all who want to experience the addictive warmth and charm of the cosmopolitan Malagueños. You do not need an invitation or formal attire, just the desire to have fun.

With a population of 571,026, Málaga lies on the Costa del Sol (Coast of the Sun) in the Autonomous Community of Andalusia, Spain. It has long been a vacation destination for British tourists, with many retiring there. Today, an estimated 6 million tourists visit the city each year. In many respects, vacationers consider the culture, cuisine, history and alluring beaches of  Costa del Sol to be the very essence of the REAL Spain. If you are not too exhausted from the Feria de Málaga, you can visit the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and the Museo Picasso Málaga,  where Picasso’s earlier paintings are on display. From the panorama of a hill, I noticed a bullfighting ring.  I asked the two Malagueños beside me, if tickets were available. Without a look, they ignored me. I finally got it: many Spanish people are appalled and ashamed of this cruel and barbarous so called ‘sport,’ where the bull always loses.

Lucca – The City of Walls: Nestled in Tuscany, Lucca is renowned for its well-preserved city walls encircling its historic city center. The first wall was built by the Romans, but abandoned due to the advent of  gun powder in China. I noticed locals bicycling the top of the walls, with stunning country views on one side and narrow Roman cobblestone streets on the other. This will be the first thing I do upon my return to Lucca, which is ideal for a two-day stay. The city is also the site of the 56 BC Roman First Triumvirate where an uneasy alliance was made between Julius Caesar, Pompey and Crassus, designed to maintain Rome’s earlier expansions. Then, breaking the agreement himself, the military genius Caesar crossed the (now Julian) Alps and defeated the Gauls. With Caesar’s triumphal return to Rome, he proclaimed himself emperor of the new Roman Empire, which resulted in the fall of the Roman Republic for good. We all know the rest.

Lucca’s most famous citizen is clearly Giacomo Puccini (1712–1781), considered to be the greatest composer of Italian opera after Verdi.  Best known for his masterpieces: ‘La bohème,’ ‘Madama Butterfly,’ ‘Tosca’ and ‘Turandot,’ he was born and raised in Lucca, and lived there for most of his life. The Puccini Museum includes Puccini’s birthplace, and showcases priceless objects that once belonged to the musician: the Steinway & Sons piano used to compose ‘Turandot,’ signed scores of early compositions, handwritten letters, paintings, photographs, sketches and mementos. The centerpiece of the museum is an exhibition that explores the personality, the genius and the passion of Puccini.

Barcelona – Antoni Gaudí (1852 1826): Spending 16 hours was far too little time to explore the enthralling  metropolis of Barcelona, the capital of Spanish Catalonia. Peopled by 1.6 million stylish and sophisticated Barcelonés, I was greeted with grand boulevards and welcoming pedestrian malls which wandered down to the waterfront. I was particularly enchanted by the cityscape that reflects the lifelong work of Barcelona architect, Antoni Gaudí,  considered the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernism. As a proud Catalander, he refused to speak Castilian and seldom left his beloved Catalonia. Gaudí’s architecture illustrates his profound passion for nature and devotion to religion. Still ahead of his time, he integrated used ceramic pieces, stained glass and wrought ironwork into his architectural style. Seven of his works have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and include the still-incomplete Sagrada Família, the most-visited monument in Spain. A visiting bishop once asked him, “Why do you trouble yourself so much about the tops of the towers? After all, no one will ever see them.” “Your Grace,” replied Gaudí, “The angels will see them.” His faith in the Roman Catholic Church intensified towards the end of his life, with his living in a squalid room at Sagrada Família, frantically attempting to finish his astonishingly masterpiece. Still dressed in his work clothes, he would often venture out for a long walks in nature. In 1926 he was tragically run down by a streetcar. Gaudí desperately waved for assistance from passing vehicles, but was dismissed as a ragged beggar, and died shortly after. Today he is often times referred to by his nickname, “God’s Architect.”

For more about Barcelona, visit Richard Carroll’s two edifying articles on Traveling Boy, which feature stunning photographs by Halina Kubalski.

• A Gothic Happening in Barcelona’s Old Quarter by Richard Carroll
• Lift a Fork in Barcelona by Richard Carroll

For further information, logon to www.HollandAmerica.com.

The post Exploring the Mediterranean with Holland America’s ms Veendnam, Installment II appeared first on Traveling Archive.

It’s almost impossible not to fall under the spell of this dreamscape where round, domed houses known as trulli rise from gentle hillsides. Alberobello will make you feel like you’ve stepped into the pages of a fairy tale, but this small town in Italy’s southeastern Puglia region is decidedly of this world, fashioned from limestone, surrounded by centuries-old vineyards and olive groves, and home to 11,000 residents. You probably won’t be able to resist the urge to make a crack or two about hobbit houses and how “truly” extraordinary they are, but the Alberobellese have heard it all and they are proud to show off one of the most unique townscapes on the planet.

Domed Wonders

Some 1,600 trulli line the lanes of Alberobello’s old quarters, Rione Monte and Aja Piccola, protected these days as a UNESCO World Heritage site. “How?” (as in “how on earth did this otherworldly place come to be?”) is the first question that comes to mind as you meander into the maze and get a close up look at so many strange-looking whitewashed houses with domed, conical roofs (trullo is from the Greek word for dome). Whimsical as trulli seem, they are borne out of practicality, built without mortar from rough-cut local limestone. Materials for the stone walls and corbelled-slab domes were readily available, and masons could assemble houses quickly and easily. Just as important, they could disassemble them simply by removing a single stone — as local lore has it, a distinct advantage if the Naples-based royal treasury decided to impose taxes on householders. With news of an approaching tax collector the entire town could be made to disappear in Brigadoon-like fashion.

Look Up!

Designs of the pinnacles atop the domed roofs are marks of the masons who built the houses, and slabs are often painted with Christian and magic symbols. Shopkeepers have added modern decorative touches of their own, few more exuberantly than Anna Maria Matarese. She’s filled her shop-in-a-trullo on Via Monte Pertica with fischietti, pottery whistles that include a Fiat weighted down with a family and their belongings. These days trulli also provide some cozily memorable dining experiences beneath their domes. Davide Girolamo of Trullo D’oro and other chefs around town serve delicious variations of cucina povera, or poor cooking, that make the most of local ingredients, though octopus served atop a bed of local fava beans and their other creations seem fit for a king.

One Dome, One Room

Most trulli consist of a single room beneath the domed roof. A peak inside a trullo, especially rewarding when this stage-set of a town mounts a historical reenactment, reveals the hardscrabble practicalities of trullo life — a large fireplace for heating and cooking, alcoves for sleeping, often a loft for storage above and a rainwater-filled cistern beneath the stone floor. A few break the mold with multiple domes and multiple rooms. Trullo Siamese was created when two brothers fell in love with the same woman and joined two trulli to accommodate their unusual living arrangement. Grandest of all is the Trullo Savrano, a complex of 12 little trulli surrounding a central, double-height trullo.

Into the Valle d’Itria and Beyond

Beyond Alberobello, the Valle d’Itria dips and rises across rolling hills that here and there are topped with irresistibly picturesque città bianche, or white towns: Ceglie Messapica, Cisternino, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, and Ostuni. Each will lure you into a few hours of aimless wandering, as will Polignano a Mare on the coast. Polignano’s narrow lanes open to seaside terraces perched above the crashing waves and a pebbly beach hemmed in by cliffs. Don’t be surprised if the setting makes you feels as though you’re taking flight into another realm — after all, Polignano’s famous son is Domenico Mudugno,  honored with a statue, and these vistas of sea and sky inspired his song “Volare.” Egnazia, farther down the coast, is an ancient Roman town bisected by the Via Traiana, the road that linked Rome with the port at Brindisi. One of Italy’s many transporting archeological experiences is a descent into Egnazia’s Tomb of the Pomegranates, from the 4^th to 2^nd century B.C. and entered through a stone door that still swings on its original hinges.

Among this abundance of sights, trulli steal the show. They stud fields and groves across the countryside, built on the spot from gathered stones to provide shelter and storage. Spotting one of these humble structures never fails to provide a world-class thrill.

For more information check out the Arteca website and the City of Alberobello website.

Stephen Brewer is an author of Frommer’s Italy and many other guidebooks.

Elyse Weiner is an Emmy Award-winning network news producer and executive, and the creator of iJOURNEYS audio walking tours of cities across Europe.

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How was your journey? The Gambardella family, several generations of whom are usually on the scene, have been asking this question ever since they began welcoming guests to their villa-like retreat on the edge of a cliff along the legendary Amalfi Coast of southern Italy in 1904. It’s understandable if some of their arrivals are at a loss to sum up the hair-raising trip along the famed Amalfi Drive. This narrow ribbon of pavement and hairpins floats hundreds of feet above the churning surf. The writer John Steinbeck described the route as “hooked and corkscrewed on the edge of nothing” and confessed that “in the back seat my wife and I lay clutched in each other’s arms, weeping hysterically.” Even so, he found the coast, where entire villages cling improbably to green hillsides that plunge into the blue Mediterranean, to be “a dream place that isn’t quite real.” Another writer, Gore Vidal, lived in a cliffside aerie in nearby Ravello, and he abandoned his typical churlishness to say he was blessed with “the most beautiful view in the world.” You’ll probably come to some of the same conclusions when you take a seat on one of the many terraces, sip a chilled Prosecco, and surrender to the sensation of being suspended here between sea and sky — or the sense that you’ve stumbled onto the set of a very stylish movie.

The Amalfi Coast is one of the most beautiful, glamorous, legendary, gossip-soaked strips of land anywhere, the haunt of film stars and poets, the rich and famous, exiled royals and pretenders, bigwigs and flaneurs, lovers and lotharios, and plenty of ordinary folks just looking to relax in style. Everyone feels right at home in these sprawling, tile-floored lounges and vine-laced dining rooms. In these swell surroundings you wouldn’t be too surprised if the bejeweled woman at the next table purred, “Gimme a whisky . . . ginger ale on the side . . . and don’t be stingy, baby,” or if a well-tanned gent ordered a martini, shaken, not stirred. The white-jacketed attendants, who seem to know every guest by name, will be just as solicitous as you wrestle with a decision to have the sea bass salted and baked or simply grilled or if you should indulge in the lemon soufflé for dessert.

“I need something truly beautiful to look at in hotel rooms,” said actress Vivien Leigh, who used to vacation in these parts. She would find plenty to admire in the 66 rooms and suites, each different, that ramble through the main house and are tucked into gardens fragrant with oranges and lemons. Furnishings are homey rather than ostentatious, enlivened with a smattering of family heirlooms, and warm whites are accented with Mediterranean hues that offset glistening hand-painted tile floors. Many of the deep bathtubs have sea views, and you might just be tempted to call room service and order a bottle of Champagne as you settle in for a long soak. These are the sorts of digs to which Greta Garbo yearned to retreat when in the film Grand Hotel she famously said, “I want to be alone.” Actually, Garbo and her lover, the conductor Leopold Stokowski, once hid out in a villa up the mountainside in Ravello. They probably would have been just as content in the Giulietta e Romeo Chalet, a hidden garden cottage dripping with bougainvillea and jasmine, or for that matter any other accommodation here.

A Bond-worthy glassed-in elevator whooshes 10-stories down a rock face to a cove that shelters the beach club. You expect to run into Cary Grant and Grace Kelly down here, lying around in beach togs as they do in To Catch a Thief.  Adding to the laidback glamor is an army of Polo-attired attendants who appear with a towel and bottle of water the moment you climb out the sea or saltwater pool. Settle in with a house made Limoncello and you can almost see Odysseus sailing by—legend has it that as he plied these waters he had himself bound to the mast to prevent him from answering the lure of Sirens promising “love, sweeter than honey.”  It’s easy to understand how he might have succumbed to local pleasures. You might also imagine that you’ve stumbled into a scene from Evil Under the Sun. You know, the lush film of the Agatha Christie thriller in which Maggie Smith is a former actress and royal courtesan who looks after a bunch of spoiled toffs at her seaside villa-turned-guesthouse. Thing is, it’s hard to imagine anything evil happening under this sun.

Hotel Santa Caterina is perched on a clifftop less than a mile outside Amalfi, at S.S. Amalfitana 9. The hotel is open from mid-April through early November. Visit their website for more information.

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