Embraced by the verdant Euganean Hills, an archipelago of conical-shaped peaks dating back some 35-million years, the thermal baths of Abano Terme, just 54 km southwest of Venice, form the oldest and largest benessere (wellness) center in Europe and, arguably, the world. Specializing in fango-balneotherapy, La Città Termale (The Thermal City) has an ancient, mythical past.

A blend of marshland and forest, sulfulreous waters sprang spontaneous millennium ago in bubbling, cauldron-like springs, creating a lake that covered the near earth as far as the eye could see. A phenomenon of extraordinary proportions, this à ponus (Greek for relieving pain) reservoir, considered divine in origin, played host to cult ceremonies, complete with sacrifices offered up to Aponus, the god of thermal and curative water, and from whom Abano Terme derives its name.

Legend also has it that Hercules himself and his warriors soothed their battle-weary bodies in the miraculous waters in the land of Aponus. Many late-antiquity literary sources confirmed the fame of the fons Aponi during the imperial period of the Roman Empire, including Claudius Claudian, a 4th century AD poet, who waxed:

“…The soft soil sighs, and closed beneath the boiling pumice the wave digs flaky roads. In its midst, like a widespread boiling sea, a blue lake extends, spinning greatly, covering an enormous area.”

Geologically and geothermically speaking, these deep, underground spa waters originate some 80 km north up in the Lower Dolomites, seeping into the subsoil through the limestone. Reaching a depth of 3,000 m, where temperatures rise and the pressure increases dramatically, the mercurial water begins its slow — 25-30 years — flow until it bubbles up, at 87°C, in the Euganean spa basin. Rich in geothermal energy, dissolved substances and minerals make the spa water of Abano a truly unique thermal resource. Scientifically classified as hyperthermal bromo-iodine-salt water, these spa springs are just what the doctor ordered to treat a plethora of ailments, from skin conditions to osteoarthritis.

With over 75 spa-wellness hotels, 120 swimming pools, 50 tennis courts, a golf training center, an equestrian center and riding school, leafy residential streets, historical villas, loads of parks and gardens, haute cuisine and couture, and access to a network of cycling-walking-trekking paths and hiking and horseback trails, Abano is able to attract more than 250,000 overnight guests a year with an additional 2 million visitors stopping long enough during a calendar year to be statistically counted.

Thermal waters and therapeutic mud aside, what else attracts the curious to the city limits of this 20k+ person town?

For starters, its array of accommodations. Each of Abano Terme’s benessere hotels — from three-star comfort to five-star luxury, with half and full-pension options — taps directly into the rare, underground spa source, providing its guests with medically and professionally-monitored therapies and aesthetic treatments: from balneotherapy to fangotherapy, from hydrokinesitherapy to inhalation treatments, along with an array of beauty and relaxation programs. All fully recognized spa-wellness resorts are classified with the “I Super” qualification issued by the Italian Ministry of Health, guaranteeing your peace of mind.

The care and concern go even further at the Pietro d’Abano Spa Study Center — named in honor of Abano’s revered late 13th, early 14th century physician, philosopher, astrologer and alchemist — as experts continuously analyze and monitor the spa water and carry out systematic research into spa water medicines and the effects of fangotherapy.

After a full day of lounging around in your swimsuit and the hotel-provided white, Turkish towel dressing gown and slippers — pampering yourself with long soaks in tubs and pools of hot, ozone-enriched spa water; listening to calming music overhead while encased in an Euganean mud wrap; and, having your body turned every which way but lose by a masseuse — take that new-found glow out for a stroll along Via delle Terme, Abano’s high street.

Enjoy a bit of window shopping then stop for an aperitivo — bubbly prosecco or an Aperol spritz — at one of the many, lively outdoor cafés and just people watch until the ice in your glass melts away. Now, head back to your hotel, or out to one of Abano’s white tablecloth restaurants (I highly recommend Ristorante Verbena on Via Monteortone) for a gourmet dinner accompanied with a bottle of chilled Ca’ de Frate Lugana. When that first yawn appears, call it a night, turn in and sleep well, dreaming about doing the same regime all over again.

Any visit to Abano Terme should begin at the monumental entrance to Sorgente Montirone, the little park on Montirone Hill where the history of La Città Termale began. Located at the start of the pedonale (pedestrian-only walkway), at the corner of Via Augure and Via d’Abano, the Corinthian colonnaded gate leads you back in time to the very source from which the underground spa waters first bubbled to the surface.

It stands to reason that a town built solely around thermal-fired H2O would have plenty of fountains dotting the urbanscape, and you’d be correct. Along with just about every one of the town’s spa-wellness hotels sporting a water feature of some sort near their entryway, Greater Abano’s water features stand out and are open to the public. Two of the most popular are the circular Fontana di Arlecchino (Harlequin Fountain), the centerpiece along the pedonale, and Columbus Fountain in Piazza Cristoforo Colombo, the largest sculpture in all of Europe dedicated to the Genovese explorer-navigator.

Meander with the aponese through the Parco Termale Urbano (Thermal Urban Park), a master-planned, elegant green space — designed by the late Paolo Portoghesi, the world-famous, post-modern architect — with spacious apartment living in various complexes strategically placed above, and shops, outdoor cafés, tree-lined serpentine walkways, a cycling path, a kiddie playground and countless park benches below, that magically merge together down the middle of town, like tributaries forming up in a flowing green river. Host to many of the town’s festivals and celebrations, step out at the large fountain in Piazza dei Todeschini and end your passeggiata (walk) at its identical twin fountain in Piazza Dondi dall’Orologio.

Founded in 1989, the Parco Regionale dei Colli Euganei (Regional Park of the Euganean Hills) is the very first regional park of the Veneto and the protected home to 81 prehistoric-looking peaks of volcanic origin, that rise above flat, fertile agricultural land inside an elliptical perimeter covering approximately 19k hectares and enclosing 15 towns, including Abano Terme, one of its gateway communities.

Cyclists, runners and trekkers alike take to the E2 anello, a 68 km ring that circumnavigates the regional park and passes by undulating vineyards, olive groves, wheat and corn fields, irrigation waterways, castles, noble villas of the old Venetian Republic, religious sanctuaries and monasteries of historical significance. Add to that, 31 well-marked rustic trails that meander off the ring for bumpy off-road thrills and heart-pounding uphill climbs. It’s the perfect tonic if you’re looking to explore the great outdoors. Ask your hotel concierge for the use of one of their complimentary two wheelers, a map of the E2 circuit and then start pedaling.

Osterias, trattorias and farm-to-fork agri-restaurants (al Peraretto in Faedo comes to mind) await you at the end of a long walk, a strenuous hike or a vigorous bike ride; or, spend some time traveling along the Strada del Vino Colli Euganei (Wine Road) to sample some of the prized DOC-rated varietals harvested and bottled in the hills — bubbly serprino, dry moscato, fior d’arancio, cabernet, carmenere and merlot to name but a few — and cold-pressed extra virgin olive oils, on offer at numerous cantine (wineries) and frantoi (olive mills) that dot the route.

Be Herculean, come to La Città Termale and soothe your body, mind and nasal passages. Aponos will thank you.

Getting here

Abano Terme is conveniently located to four international airports, two major train stations and Italy’s vast autostrada (motorway) network. By air, choose between Venice’s Marco Polo Airport (55 km), Treviso’s Sant’Angelo Airport (70 km), Verona’s Catullo Airport (90 km) or Bologna’s Marconi Airport (110 km).

By train, the Terme Euganee station, in nearby Montegrotto Terme, is less than a ten-minute taxi ride from Abano Terme and serves as your hop-on/hop-off point for connections to/from Padova (10 min), Venice (45 min) or Bologna (70 min).

By car, driving the A13 Padova-Bologna motorway, take the “Terme Euganee” exit. Motoring in on the A4 Milano-Venezia motorway, exit at “Padova Ovest”.

For added convenience, private car or passenger van transfer service to any of the airports or train stations listed, or to plan day-trip excursions with a knowledgeable driver, can be arranged directly with A.R.T.E. Taxi Service, Tel. +39 049 667842. A one-way transfer from/to Marco Polo Airport in Venice, for example, costs €110.

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Ever heard of a Sgroppino? Well, it’s a lemon-flavored, creamy-smooth, frothy alcoholic beverage.

More a digestivo (digestive) or liquid dessert than an aperitivo (cocktail), the Sgroppino was created by the inventive and masterful Venetians back in the 16th century.

Sgropin, as it’s called in the Venetian dialect, means to untie a little knot – the kind one finds in his/her stomach following a rather large meal. Further away from La Serenissima it’s called a Sgroppino, or simply Sorbetto.

Made with milk-free lemon sorbetto (sorbet) and a bit of alcohol, the Sgroppino was served in aristocratic Venetian homes during dinner to cleanse the palate between the first and second courses – normally fish to meat – and to also help digest all that was consumed at the tail-end of the dinner. That tradition continues today, with a few minor twinks to the centuries-old recipe.

Today, the classic Sgroppino is made with lemon sorbetto, vodka and Prosecco sparkling wine. Variations include strawberry, grapefruit or mandarin sorbetto vice lemon, and, for some, a bit of limoncello (lemon liqueur), too.

 Here’s the recipe I’ve tested out at my place and my friends were quite impressed.

Step-1: Thaw-out the sorbetto to a creamy consistency then place in an aluminum mixing bowl and whisk lightly.

Step-2: Pour in the vodka, whisk lightly, followed by the Prosecco and whisk a bit more.

Step-3: Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place the mix in the refrigerator for 3-4 hours.

Step-4: Dampen the glasses and place in the freezer to chill.

Step-5: Remove the bowl from the refrigerator and give the mix one final whisk to re-froth.

Step-6: Pour the mix into the pre-chilled glasses up to the top, garnish with a lemon wedge and some mint leaves, then serve.

The next time, or first time you find yourself in Venice, untie those knots by asking for a Sgroppino, during or after dinner. It’s the Venetian thing to do.

SALUTE!

View the list of travel recipes here.

View the list of past travel recipes at our old site here.

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Despite his dream of building a capital city along the banks of the Potomac River and unlike the real estate cliché “George Washington slept here,” America’s first president never once laid his head down on a pillow within the District of Columbia, aka Washington, DC. The closest he ever got was a good night’s sleep at his homestead in nearby Mount Vernon, VA.

Some 228 years later, our nation’s capital welcomes more than 22 million visitors a year. A world-class city embedded with a vibrant history, spectacular monuments, outstanding museums, plentiful parks, lush gardens and exceptional chef-driven cuisine, Washington, DC is well worth a visit. But, don’t just take my word for it, join me as I take the lens cap off and document this monumental city originally planned by Pierre L’Enfant.

For starters, there’s the Smithsonian Institution, a collection of 19 massive, artifacts-filled museums and galleries and the National Zoo, many standing shoulder-to-shoulder on either side of the two-mile long National Mall, “America’s front yard.” Art, history — natural and chronicled — science, and red-white-and-blue ingenuity to rocket into space, are all on display inside these titanic buildings. And, the best part? Entry is absolutely free for we, the people.

Bookending the Mall is the Capitol Building at the eastern end, where the legislative branches of government apply their checks and balances atop old Jenkins’ Hill, and the awe-inspiring Lincoln Memorial, where Honest Abe sits in deep contemplation at the western edge along the banks of the Potomac. And, smack dab in the middle of it all stands the Washington Monument, a 555-foot marble obelisk — the tallest structure in the District — honoring the “Father of His Country” that’s encircled by 56 American flags, one for each state along with the five territories and the District of Columbia.

Our historical walk around the Mall also includes a bevy of memorials: Jefferson, Vietnam and Korean War Veterans, Martin Luther King, Jr., FDR and World War II. Join the lengthy queue to get inside the National Archives to view John Hancock’s John Hancock on the Declaration of Independence, along with the Constitution of the United States and the Bill of Rights. Book way in advance for access to the National Museum of African American History and Culture, the newest venue on the Mall. Spend an entire day exploring the myriad of exhibitions at the National Galleries of Art and Portrait. Reach for the sky and the stars beyond at the National Air and Space Museum. And, stop long enough to smell the plant life inside the US Botanic Garden.

The United States is a cultural melting pot and its capital reflects the nation’s sea-to-shining-sea international roots. Heavily influenced by Egyptian, Greek, Roman, medieval European and 19th-century French architecture, wherever you look, especially up, you’ll see an abundance of tall columns, massive domes and the occasional flying buttress. From the White House to the U.S. Capitol, from the Washington Monument to the Library of Congress, from Union Station to the National Cathedral, a simple stroll around architecturally impressive DC alone is well worth the airfare. Right?

The District’s a showcase of American performance arts and is home to such iconic venues as the National Theatre and the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts.

In the early 20^th century, jazz music had a dizzying effect here as DC natives, like Duke Ellington, played the night away on stages up and down famed U Street. Years later, homegrown go-go, a blend of funk, R&B and hip-hop set the beat around clubs and out on the street.

And, let’s not forget that John Philip Souza came marching down Pennsylvania Avenue at the dawn of the 1900s leading the Marine Corps Band, the oldest musical group in the US. Today, Souza’s iconic march music is one of the highlights at the annual A Capitol Fourth, the national Independence Day celebration that unfolds at twilight on the West Lawn of Capitol Hill.

The White House, Congress and the Supreme Court, the three pillars of the US government, all punch their clocks here, while the Pentagon, the State Department, the World Bank and embassies from almost every corner of the globe float around their orbit. Power, those that carry it and those eager to wrestle it away, is why DC emits such a 24/7/365 buzz. Can you feel it?

Washingtonians, all 700,000+ of them, know full well the difference between the city itself and the District of Columbia, aka “inside the beltway.”

Beyond the high profile attractions, the politics, the leaks, the lobbying and the “fake news,” the city, all 68 square miles of it, is made up of small, distinctive neighborhoods where normal folk live and breathe. Here, restaurants, cafes, bars and nightclubs are hopping; Ubers are hailed and bicycles and electric scooters are shared via smartphone apps, and one of the cleanest metro systems in the world moves the populace quickly; and, where friends share a laugh, like my DC-based fam, on colorful row-house front porches or on terraces atop apartment complexes with fab views of their fair city spread out below.

While we’re here, let’s grab some cutlery and tuck in to one of the country’s hottest food scenes. The District is a can’t-miss epicurean destination touted by the likes of Bon Appétit, the Michelin Guide and Zagat, and where celebrity chefs like José Andrés, Tim Ma and Marjorie Meek-Bradley conjure up their culinary wizardry.

From food magazine-worthy dishes created and plated at coveted tables around Penn Quarter, to local favorite half-smokes served at a 24-hour diner up in Adams Morgan, to one-stop grazing at foodie mecca Union Market, just about every kitchen on the planet is represented within DC.

Regardless of your crave, one thing’s for certain: it’s all delectable no matter where you dine. Uh, I’ll have the Maryland crab cake sandwich topped with crispy bacon, please.

With loads of attractions and activities for every visitor, budget-minded and value-added, Washington, DC is teeming with a good-time vibe. Affording unmatched free access to museums, monuments and memorials and one-of-a-kind events, like the National Cherry Blossom Festival, not to mention five pro sports teams — Redskins, Nationals, Wizards, Capitals and DC United — the District is in a class all by itself.

Washington, DC, America’s monumental city that our first commander-in-chief envisioned, is all grown up now. I’m just happy that you let me show you around.

The post Washington, DC: America’s Monumental City appeared first on Traveling Archive.

All photos © 2022 Tom Weber

Bologna, the capital city of the Emilia-Romagna region of central Italy, had, until recently, three unique sides to its personality: La Dotta (The Learned), because the oldest university (1088) in the western world, where the poet Dante studied, was founded here; La Rossa (The Red), because of the terracotta-colored roofs, and, to a lesser degree, its penchant for left-leaning politics; and, La Grassa (The Fat), because of all of the great, original cuisine found within its postal code, like ragù, lasagne, mortadella, along with Lambrusco and Pignoletto wines.

The triumverate of this ancient medieval grid of a city — the very first Italian commune to abolish slavery in the 13th century — has stood the test of time, but now there’s a new moniker nudging its way to the forefront of Bologna’s spirit and spotlighting all of those ornate arcades. Last year, UNESCO listed 12 of the most significant sections of the archways of Bologna as a World Heritage Site, recognising them as an identifying element of the metropolis and proclaiming The Learned, The Fat and The Red (insert trumpet sounds here), La Città dei Portici (The City of Arcades).

No other city on the planet has more arcades than Bologna. In the centro storico alone, there are more than 42 km of covered walkways, with an addional 20 km of porticoes meandering outside the city gates. It’s an international record that the city has been holding onto for more than 900 years and that today, together with its remaining 22 neck-craning towers, including the leaning Garisenda Tower, and tasty tortellini — in brodo or with butter and sage — are the cornerstones of Bologna’s urban identity

Strolling through the vaulted passageways — dry when it rains, shady and cool when it’s hot — you find yourself surrounded by these architectural masterpieces built out of brick, stone or wood since the 12th century.

The most famous and longest arcade in the world, stretching 3.79 km, is the Portico of San Luca. It starts at Porto Saragozza, one of the city’s original 12 gates, and is supported by a devilish 666 arches.  

If you’re on foot — the absolute best way to experience this grand portico — you arrive at the halfway mark, Arco del Meloncello, crack a left and then it’s all uphill from there, sans defibullators, to reach the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca. Catch your breath, have a look around, then do an about-face and head back, the best part of the walk, because it’s all downhill.

If you’re in a hurry, you can hop on the San Luca Express, a tourist train that leaves Piazza Maggiore just about every half hour between 10:00 am and 5:30 pm. Or, catch bus 20 in the city center and ride it to Arco Meloncello, alight and climb the remaining 2 km in the shadows of the remaining porticoes up to the sanctuary.

Either on foot, tourist train or bus, you’ve got to experience the Portico of San Luca, just like you have to savor ragù, when visiting Bologna. Afterall, she’s not called La Grassa for nothing, nor La Città dei Portici.

HOW TO ARRIVE

A major transportation hub, almost all trains — local, regional or the super-fast, high-speed Frecce or Italo — stop at Bologna’s main railway station. From there, hail a taxi for the ride to your hotel.

National and international flights take off and land at Bologna’s Guglielmo Marconi Airport. From there, hail a taxi for the 15-20 min. ride to the city center, or hop on the Marconi Express that zips you to the main train station in just 7 min.

WHERE TO STAY — WHAT TO SEE — WHAT TO EAT

For the best hotels, restaurants, city itineraries and current and future calendar of events, look no further than the Bologna Convention and Visitors Bureau’s website: Welcome to Bologna. 

The post Bologna: La Città dei Portici appeared first on Traveling Archive.

In the southeastern reaches of the Bel Paese, where the Adriatic and Ionian seas embrace, lies the country’s breadbasket, Puglia. The pace is relaxed, life takes a breather and family and friends regularly gather around la tavola. Its heart and soul are nourished by la cucina povera (kitchen of the poor), the quintessential Mediterranean diet, which comes straight out of the zero-kilometer, terracotta-colored soil and the nearby bluest-of-blue seas and right onto your plate and into your glass. 

Applauded for its superlative wines and extra virgin olive oil, its Greek and Baroque architecture and its long, hot summers and mild winters, Puglia, where the Second Punic War was waged, is the less hectic, unpolished alternative to its more crowded and trendier postal codes up in northern Italy. Plus, the food is so genuine and tempting that you won’t be able to resist. Here’s a quartet of must-taste dishes when visiting this ascendant region of Italy.

Bombette: Little Explosions of Flavor on the Grill

One of the small cities around Puglia designated as a borghi più belli d’Italia (prettiest towns of Italy), Cisternino, sitting atop a hill overlooking the Valle d’Itria, is a well-manicured municipality with a camera-ready historic center full of white tablecloth restaurants. But, its true epicurean fame is found inside its bracerie (butcher shops), that grill your meat selections right on the premises and serve it all up, along with french fries, large salads and veggie skewers, on long wooden tables with bench seating. Go ahead and order a juicy steak, or some sausage rounds filled with fennel, but do not overlook the bombette (little bombs), the quintessential street food of Puglia that explode with flavor. They’re thinly sliced and rolled cuts of capocollo (pork loin) stuffed with herbs and caciocavallo cheese and wrapped with a slice of pancetta, then skewered together and cooked over a wood-fired grill. These little morsels are best enjoyed with a robust Primitivo of Manduria.

Pane di Altamura: An Ancient Bread Redefines the Bruschetta

Salt-of-the-earth Puglia boasts the very first European bread that came out of the oven with the designation of PDO — Protected Designation of Origin. And that distinction goes to the artisan bakeries of Altamura, a city that straddles the regional border with Basilicata. 

Shaped either like a priest’s hat or a long rustic knot, this bread is quite possibly the world’s greatest. But, don’t take my word for it, take Homer’s, the Latin poet, who wrote back in 37 BC, “Altamura bread, by far the best bread to be had…” Today’s Altamura, honey colored and crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, is the absolute best foundation for a classic bruschetta. Toast a thick slice, rub with a garlic clove, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, add a dash of sea salt and top with diced cherry tomatoes and basil leaves or oregano. Enjoy it until your heart’s content with a rosè of Nero di Troia.

Purè di Fave e Cicoria: Sweat-of-the-Brow Goodness

Sometimes the humblest of dishes are the best, and no plate embodies Puglia more than the marriage of the sweetness of puréed chickpeas with the bitterness of just-picked wild chicory. If you singled out one dish that’s a testament to la cucina povera, it would be this. No one city, town or hamlet can claim this dish as its own. It belongs to the Pugliese, each and everyone of them. From the high streets to farmer’s fields, a good, wholesome, sweat-of-the-brow plate of purè di fave e cicoria is just the ticket. Add in some prized, caramelized red onions from Acquaviva delle Fonti and a slice or two of artisan bread and you’re headed for heaven. You can’t go wrong pairing this simple dish with a young red or novello (new) wine.

Tiella Barese: Rice, Potatoes and Mussels fit for a King

Bari, the capital of Puglia, lays claim to this recipe, but no matter where you roam on the stiletto heel, every other city or town says their mélange of alternating layers of potatoes, mussels, rice, halved cherry tomatoes and pecorino cheese, with optional and controversial sliced zucchini and other ingredients, cooked in a tiella, a deep earthenware dish, in a wood-fired oven, is the absolute best. Don’t argue, just eat. Despite varying culinary bravado, tiella barese might simply be a variation on the paella, left behind by the Spaniards who ruled Puglia for some 200 years during the reign of the Kingdom of Naples. Pair this land-and-sea casserole with Baca Rara, a Bombino Bianco-Chardonnay blend from the Castel del Monte area.

Come to Puglia and savor la cucina povera; you’ll be richer for the experience. 

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For centuries, artists and aristocrats, divas and dictators, poets and politicos, why even James Bond himself, have fallen under the spell of alpine breezes, the scent of lemon blossoms and the mesmerizing shades-of-blue of Italy’s largest lake, Lago di Garda. Straddling three distinct regions: Veneto, Lombardy and Trentino-Alto Adige, this ladle-shaped body of water beckons travelers from all over to experience the Italian dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing).

Lacus Benacus, as it was known back in the day of the sandal-clad Roman Empire, is 154 kilometers around, including 45 kilometers of scattered sandy and pebbled public beaches. This postcard-perfect setting was formed during the Quatenary Age, about 1.5 million years ago, when a massive glacier slid down from the mountains, settled into a depression, melted and transformed itself into the largest freshwater lake in the Bel Paese.

In the narrow, fijord-shaped northern reaches of the lake, the Pelér wind blows strong and the Prealpi Gardesane mountains tower high above. Up here, the topography is wild and untamed. Lakefront cities, like Riva del Garda and Torbole, look less manicured than their southern siblings. Souvenir shops take a backseat to outdoor-themed stores selling climbing, hiking and camping gear. Windsurfers outnumber sail boats as they zigzag across like flocks of wild geese, while paragliders silently descend from Monte Baldo like a well-choreographed aerial version of Swan Lake.

Head south and it’s quite a different story. Glance around and you’ll be amazed to see an undulating landscape of vineyards, olive groves and citrus orchards dotting the Morainic Hills. Pastel-colored villages, like Bardolino, Garda and Lasize, are just a ferry hop away, while Sirmione, where opera diva Maria Callas once lived, soothes the body, mind and nasal passages at its world-class thermal baths. Theme parks like Gardaland and Canevaworld Resort, Parco Natura Viva – a combo zoo safari and fauna park – and Sigurtà Botanical Gardens, with its one million tulips, are just the tonic for families on holiday and an easy drive from the lake.

All across the southern shores, there are scores of Roman ruins and castles to explore, like the remains of Grotte Catullo, a massive villa reportedly built for the 1st-century BC Latin poet Catullus on an overlook at the very tip of the Sirmione peninsula. Younger by centuries are Rocca Scaligero, the historic entryway to Sirmione, and Castello Scaligero, the 13th-century medieval fortress that stands vigil in Malcesine and where Goethe, the German poet-statesman, was briefly detained in 1786 on suspicion of being a spy.

Hungry for more? Well, there’s plenty of haute cuisine to satisfy the most discerning palate up and down spotless lakeside promenades, along with award-winning estates eager for you to sample their fine wines, like Bardolino, Lugano, Soave and Valpolicello. If that’s still not enough to fill up your itinerary, then make tracks to Desenzano, the largest town on the lake, and follow Lord Tennyson’s suggestion to Row us out from Desenzano, where you can board a train for a day trip to Bergamo, Mantua, Verona or Venice.

Nestled in a bay on the lake’s southwest corner is the town of Salò, the gateway to the Riviera dei Limoni (Lemon Coast). Once a regional seat of power during the reign of the Venetian Republic, Salò later became the capital of the Social Republic of Italy, part of Mussolini’s last-ditch effort to reignite fascism in the face of the advancing Allied Forces.

Traces of the town’s past are clearly evident in its graceful historic center with a dense network of streets, cobbled alleyways and flower-filled squares with stately homes, elegant shops, lively bars, white tablecloth restaurants and a three kilometers-long lakeside promenade. Noteworthy, are Mu Sa, the museum of Salò, filled with permanent pieces related to the town’s story, including Gaspare da Salò, one of the world’s earliest violin makers, along with the Duomo of Salò, Palazzo della Magnifica Patria and Palazzo del Podestà.

The ferry ride from Salò to Gardone takes only 14 minutes. Disembark and hail a taxi for a five-minute ride up a serpentine, cypress tree-lined hill to visit the quirky museum-house where poet-playwright-ultranationalist Gabrielle D’Annunzio held court: Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (The Shrine of Italian Victories). A short stroll back down the hill, meander through Hruska Botanical Gardens, where alpine flora merge with tropical exotics.

Worth every ducat you spend, enjoy a two-hour private tour on one of Salò’s sleek motorboats. The skipper-guides are knowledgeable on all-things Lake Garda, as you glide up to Maderno-Toscolano, over to Punta San Vigilio, and then back to Salò via a quiet float around Isola del Garda, where Dante Alighieri once visited and mentioned it in the Divine Comedy, to admire from afar the 19th-century, Venetian neo-Gothic-style Villa Borghese Cavazza.

Although most points around Lake Garda are easily reachable by ferry, with a timetable so precise that you could set a Swiss watch to it, the disappointed look on my face when I was informed that the schedule just changed that morning and the ferry I was ready to take to Limonesul Garda was no longer available. What to do? Hire a car and driver, that’s what. Strapped into the back seat, I hold on for dear life as my local pilot races along the treacherous Strada della Forra, a winding, white-knuckle, tunnel-filled single lane road on the western side of the Gardesano, the very same stretch that James Bond negotiated aboard his 007-issued Aston Martin DBS V12 in the opening car chase of Quantum of Solace, a route that Winston Churchill proclaimed was, the eighth wonder of the world.to the tree. Thankfully, we eluded the imaginary bad guys and I arrived in the land of lemons just a bit shaken, but not stirred.

Limonesul Garda, a watercolor of a town built against the tall, rocky cliffs of Monte Sughera, shows its ancient roots as a quiet fishing village with motorized rowboats bobbing up and down in quaint little harbors; but, once the novelty wears off, you realize that the narrow cobbled streets are heaving with tourists on a mission to purchase products made from its prized lemons. First introduced in the 13th century by Fransican monks, these herperidium trees took root and prospered and Limonesul Garda soon became known as Lemon Town, the most northern point where citrus survives and thrives. So important was the lemon to life’s well-being that Bongianni Grattarolo, a 16th-century dramatic poet from Salò, wrote, …long before factories were built, there was a lemon tree: when sailors would make it ashore in spite of stormy winds, they would go and talk to the tree.

To protect the citrus from frost, locals built limonaie, the first terraced greenhouses made of strong wooden pillars covered in glass. From Via Porto, start a heart-palpitating hike straight up the winding cobble and you arrive at a restored castle-greenhouse, El Castèl, that now serves as a living museum where lemons, limes, grapefruits and tangerines sun themselves in the lake’s unique micro climate.

In his first-ever collection of travel notes, Twilight in Italy and Other Essays, celebrated novelist D.H. Lawrence described Lake Garda as, the lake as beautiful as the beginning of creation. Now, having just spent a fortnight ferry-hopping around the lake from my base in Salò, I’d have to agree with Mr. Lawrence’s succinct take on this gorgeous body of water. Like a slow-food Sunday around la tavola, it took my breath away, time and time again.

The post Lake Garda: Poetry in Motion appeared first on Traveling Archive.

When I’m not in my wellies tending to our two-acre plot of olive trees, tucked inside the Valle d’Itria of the Alto Salento sub-region of Puglia in the southeastern reaches of Italy, I like to lace up my hiking boots, grab my camera and walking stick and head out on long, photo-shoot treks around my ‘hood.

With an abundance of sunshine cascading down from the incredibly blue Pugliese sky, I’m blessed with picture-perfect weather as I go in search for abandoned abodes that pepper the landscape — those iconic, coned-shaped trulli and oval-roofed saraceni. On any given trek, I’ll come across at least a baker’s dozen of these dry-mortar, stone structures hiding in plain sight.

Whaddya say you lace ‘em up, grab a walking stick and tag along with me, virtually, as I go in search for more signature abodes of the Valle d’Itria that’ve been abandoned for centuries and left standing under the Pugliese blue.

The post Abandoned Under the Pugliese Blue appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Have you ever glanced across the room in a restaurant and seen someone at another table engrossed in a business lunch? The poor frontline employee is talking frantically on an iPhone with someone back at the office while simultaneously crunching sales projections on an iPad as his/her regional manager, waiting impatiently, strums his/her fingers on the table and remarks, “Well?”

Non è una problema per me (It’s not a problem for me). Today, I’m throwing away the gadgets and having lunch, virtually, with the late, great tenor-of-all-tenors, Luciano Pavarotti. “The King of the High C’s” and I have all the time in the world, just like the length of one his operas.

In between arias, we’ll lunch on a simple concoction I’ve whipped up in the kitchen many times before.

It’s a quick-‘n’-easy, Lazy Person’s pasta recipe featuring penne rigate (cylinder shaped, furrowed “quills”), grilled peperoni (bell peppers) and a handful of Greek black olives, or: Penne con Peperoni e Olive Nero. For lunch, it’s one of my favorite go-to dishes and plates in less than 30 min., OR YOU DON’T PAY. Not bad for “slow food.”

More often than not, Italians – of ALL ages – enjoy a plate of pasta at pranzo (lunch) vice cena(dinner). Admittedly, pasta, in all its variety, is one of the heavier dishes of la cucina Italiana and best served as part of the midday meal.

Whenever I wing it in the galley, I always have music playing in the background, appropriate for the dish I’m attempting to create or recreate, to keep me focused and in the right mood.

I love the sound of musica classica, and it marries well with the Italian fare that I routinely – and miraculously – whip together.

With “The Maestro” in the house, I thought it appropriate to go with one of his all-time hits, Mattinata, written by Ruggero Leoncavallo way back in 1904 and one of the 26 songs that made it into the Pavarotti’s Greatest Hits CD.

If you’ll cue it up on the turntable, I mean the iPhone, and raise the volume to the heavens, we’ll get this culinary aria underway.

Step-1: Fill a medium-size pot with water, cover, set the burner to HIGH and bring to a boil.

Step-2: Cut the pre-packaged roasted peppers and black olives, and peel, quarter and flatten out the cloves of garlic.

Step-3: Pour the olive oil into a skillet rotating it around until the pan is completely coated. Set the burner on MEDIUM heat and warm the oil for no more than one min. DO NOT BURN THE OIL.

Step-4: When the olive oil heats up, introduce the garlic (or garlic powder) and stir. Once the garlic cloves turn paper-bag brown, turn the burner off and remove them from the skillet and toss.

Step-5: Weigh the pasta to ensure you have the right amount (100g x person).

Step-6: The medium pot of water is now boiling. Remove the lid and add the sea salt.

Step-7: Drop the dried penne into the boiling water, stir vigorously for about 15 sec. to keep the pieces separated. Set the timer for 9 minutes and let the pasta cook on its own.

Note: Cooking time for the penne rigate (size n. 73) is 11 min., but we’ll subtract 1 min. and use that time to quickly sauté the pasta in the sauce at the very end just before plating to ensure the dish is al dente.

Step-8: While the penne cook, return the skillet to the burner and place on MEDIUM heat. Fold in the roasted pepper and black olives, the optional crushed hot red pepper flakes, and 2 tablespoons of the boiling, salty pasta water and stir for 2 min. Turn the burner down to LOW and keep the sauce going until the penne finish cooking.

Step-9: The timer rings at the 10-min. mark. The pasta is done. Turn off the burner. Drain the penne in a colander and shake off the excess water.

Step-10: Throw the penne down into the skillet where the sauce has remained warm. Raise the burner to MEDIUM heat and sauté quickly for about 30-sec., or until all the “quills” are bathed in the sauce.

Step-11: Turn the burner off. Plate the penne. Serve with crunchy, artisan black olive bread.

Step-12: BUON APETITO!

Recommended wine pairing: Bidibi IGT – Maculan Società Agricola, Breganze (VI), Italy.

Made from a blend of Tai (f.n.a. Tocai, 55%) and Sauvignon (45%), this refreshing vino is straw-yellow in color. Intensely aromatic, it pours forth with refreshing notes of ripe tropical fruit, citrus and freshly cut grass.

Dry and well-rounded on the palate, Bidibi IGT has a vibrant acidity with a pleasant and persistent finish. It stands on its own as a true ombra (regional dialect for aperitif), and marries well with soups, first courses – including the above recipe – and light fish dishes.

Best served chilled at 10°C. Cin cin!

View the list of travel recipes here.

View the list of past travel recipes at our old site here.

The post A Penne Peppered Pranzo With Pavarotti appeared first on Traveling Archive.

There is nothing better in a travel-foodie blogger’s life than to receive an invitation to attend a special event involving a knife, fork, spoon and wine glass. I scored such an invite several years ago from Bottega S.p.A., an award-winning Italian estate built inside Villa Rosina, a renovated and expanded 19th century manor house surrounded by ten hectares of just-picked vineyards, in tiny Bibano di Godega di Sant’Urbino, just 45 km (27 mi) north of La Serenissima, Venice.

I was here, smack dab in the middle of Italy’s Prosecco and grappa-producing Veneto region, to experience Bottega’s annual Festa della Vendemmia (Harvest Festival).

Sandro Bottega, the effervescent owner of the estate, and his staff rolled out the red carpet on their latest vintage with lots of delicious food and superlative wines, grappas and spirits in an outdoor party atmosphere attended by international wine agents and buyers, highlighted by a special theatre troupe attired in 18th century Venetian costumes and accented by a live concerto of classical music.

At the sprawling tenuta (estate), Sig. Bottega, dressed all in black, drew the first pour from a large wooden vat of the fresh, barefoot-stomped Glera grape – the Prosecco grape – took a sip, smiled, raised his glass and announced to the assemblage that the year’s harvest was…wait for it… ECCELLENTE!

The Venetian theatre troupe, members of La Compagne de Calze of Venice, followed suit and toasted en masse, along with everyone else, and Bottega’s harvest festival officially got underway.

Aperitivi of Bottega Gold Prosecco DOC, along with stuzzachini (appetizers) of grape and cheese skewers, figs and prosciutto crudo, and grape leaves-wrapped ricotta cheese, were taken in the intimate and elegant tasting room of the villa.

I chatted it up with just about everyone there, including the throwback Venetians who either doffed their tricorn hats or curtseyed.

Under the threat of overcast skies, we were shown our seats inside a large outdoor marquee where three female musicians, Le Serenissime Dame Venice Ensemble , were tuning their 17th century stringed instruments in preparation of serenading us with a selection of classical music composed by 17th century Baroque composer, Antonio Lucio Vivaldi, a true Venetian. Just like the Prosecco we were enjoying, the concerto was ECCELLENTE, too.

As if the festival in honor of the grape harvest couldn’t add any more bounty, it did. At dinnertime we all went to work over a mouthwatering, Venetian-themed feast perfectly paired with a selection of Bottega’s very best labels.

The first course star was the classic La Serenissima dish bigoi in salsa (thick spaghetti in an anchovy-onion sauce), wonderfully paired with Fundum Prosecco DOC.

The second course, a mix of pork and chicken roasted on a spit, complimented by four contorni (side dishes) of potatoes, polenta, stewed peppers and grilled vegetables, was succulent and matched well with the estate’s Chianti Classico Reserva DOCG.

Dessert – which I attempted to ignore, but couldn’t – was an assortment of fresh fruits, cheeses and tarts, accompanied by glasses of Amarone DOCG and Moscato Rosé, and followed by liqueurs and much-needed, strong shots of espresso.

With the last wine glasses standing fully drained, we struggled to make our way through the front door and out to the waiting motor coach for the ride back to our complimentary rooms at the atmospheric (hyperlink Villa Luppis (villaluppis.it/en/), a former 11th century monastery converted into a four-star, 39-bedroom hotel, in nearby Pasiano di Pordenone.

Before I could get on board, Stefano Bottega, the visionary who added gold to the family business, gifted me a huge basket of Bottega S.p.A. products: wines, grappas, creamy liqueurs and extra virgin olive oil. Evidently, someone told him about my penchant to conduct “research” at home.

The post A Wine Harvest dripping in Bottega Gold appeared first on Traveling Archive.

For 85 days, between March and June of this year, my wife, Orna O’Reilly, aka Chef Double O, and I hunkered down inside Villa Allegra, our little bright-white house with Santorini-blue shutters tucked inside the Valle d’Itria just outside of Ostuni, as Italy imposed a nationwide lockdown of biblical proportions to combat the Covid-19 pandemic. We only left our humble abode — kitted out like we were cast members on an episode of CSI — for the bare necessities: grocery and wine shopping. There was no dining out. No socializing with friends and neighbors. Nothing!

While she cooked and baked up a storm for nearly three straight months, I photographed most of the tantalizing dishes she prepped, selected their wine pairings and chronicled our lockdown on all of our social media platforms under the heading What’s Burning Tonight (WBT). In a relatively short amount of time, we established a steady fan base of like-minded foodies who wanted to dine with us virtually. Here’s a baker’s dozen of the highlights ripped from the WBT diary.

(Mar. 15^th) Day seven of the nationwide lockdown in Italy hasn’t stopped Chef Double O from performing more of her magic in the kitchen. How about salmon en croute, a whole-grain puff-pastry filled with salmon and spinach accompanied by fluffy mashed potatoes.

And, in the glass? Talò Fiano, a palate-pleasing, floral-scented varietal from the San Marzano Estate in the province of Taranto, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(Mar. 30^th) It’s a beautiful Sunday morning around Villa Allegra, the 21st day of Italy’s nationwide lockdown and Chef Double O’s 21st consecutive chowdown. As I hoist myself up on one of the stools surrounding our kitchen countertop, she places a small bowl in front of me filled with her variation of a popular Swiss breakfast food: Bircher Muesli. It’s a mushy mix of grains, seeds, dried fruits, grated apple, yogurt and honey topped with blueberries and strawberries. It’s just what the doctor ordered, actually Dr. Maximilian Bircher-Benner, a Swiss physician and nutritionist from Zurich who created this “rise and shine” healthy dish. Yodel-ay-hee-hoo!

Buon appetito!

(Apr 2^nd) It’s the XXVth day of the nationwide lockdown here in the Bel Paese and the XXVth edition of Chef Double O’s chowdown. Orna put our neighbor’s recent gift of farm-fresh eggs to good use as she prepped and plated a multigrain “quarantine” quiche filled with roasted butternut squash, caramelized onions and speck, accompanied by a green salad of valeriana (lamb’s lettuce) tossed in a Dijon mustard vinaigrette. It was “lock the door and throw away the key” delicious.

And, in the glass? One of the top wines of Puglia: Pungirosa, a DOCG-rated Castel del Monte Bombino Nero rosato from the Rivera Estate in Andria.

Buon appetito!

(Apr 14^th) On this the 37th day of Italy’s nationwide lockdown, I donned a mask and surgical gloves and braved a trip into Ostuni for a much-needed wine run. Frankly, I’ll brave just about anything when our cellar nears red on the stockpile meter.

I was the only wino, I mean customer, in the enoteca and had Silvestro, Elena and Francesco running around helping me find everything on my list and then some. When the dust settled, I filled the boot of the car with six cartons of wine, or 36 bottles. Ripping the mask off my face, I gunned the Fiat 500X out of town and into the safety of the rolling countryside.

Meanwhile, back at Villa Allegra, Chef Double O prepped her 37th chowdown dish: pan-fried, bio chicken breasts with strips of smoked speck accompanied by roasted fennel and taters. It was a meal fit for a guy just returning from hazardous duty. 🙂

And, in the glass? Aglianico, a superb ruby-red varietal from the Villa Schinosa Estate of Trani in the province of Bari, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(Apr 17^th) The nationwide lockdown here in the Bel Paese has reached 40 days, and like Noah’s Arc that floated about for the same amount of time, Chef Double O pulled a pair of thick salmon fillets out of the deep freeze to star in her 40th chowdown dish.

She pan-fried the fillets then plated them with roasted new potatoes and string beans. This 40th day chowdown dish was devoured by yours truly in just 40 seconds. Yes, it was that good!

And, in the glass? Aka, a bright, deep-pink colored Primitivo rosato, just like the color found in the rare Japanese coral of the same name, from Produttori di Manduria, the so-called “Masters of Primitivo,” in the province of Taranto, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(Apr 27^th) Under happier circumstances, today would be the 50th anniversary of something for somebody. Instead, today marks the cinquantesimo giorno of the Bel Paese nationwide lockdown.

Not to worry, Chef Double O is on the prowl in the Villa Allegra kitchen searching high and low for her secret ingredients to go into her secret sauce to plate her fave beer-battered cod and crunchy greens, tomatoes, and avocado-filled fish tacos, a handheld staple of the beach bums that occupy the space up and down Baja California. Surfs up and so are my fish tacos!

And, in the glass? Susumaniello, a splendid varietal rosato from the AlmaD’Itria line of wines produced by the Upal Wine Cooperative of Cisternino, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(May 7^th) On this the 60th day of Italy’s nationwide lockdown, the Villa Allegra cupboard is showing more open space than the state of Montana. Well, almost. Not to worry though, Chef Double O, with meager supplies on hand, has managed to whip up a delightful dish of fresh tagliatelle al ragù with a sprinkling of grated Parmigiano Reggiano on top. She calls it comfort food, I call it deeeelicious!

And, in the glass? Sturnio Rosso Salento, a vibrant Negroamaro-Malvasia blend from the Upal Cooperative of the Valle d’Itria, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(May 15^th) We’re now up to the 68th day of Italy’s nationwide lockdown. While the world has hunkered down, for the most part, to combat the Covid-19 pandemic, one dish, more than any other, is seeing a renaissance with wannabe stay-at-home bakers: banana bread. And, Villa Allegra is no exception.

When a bunch of our musa sapientum becomes overripe, Chef Double O flies into action and preps another loaf of ‘nana bread with walnuts, and my breakfast is pretty much set for the next four days. Add a side of fresh berries and a cup of strong French-press coffee with cream and I’m good to go until sundown.

Buon appetito!

(May 17^th) Seventy days. Ten weeks. That’s how long Italy has been in a nationwide lockdown. And, for her latest culinary trick, Chef Double O painstakingly prepped our homegrown artichokes, polenta and veggie skewers for the barbie to grill up alongside sausage rounds filled with fennel, thick slices of pancetta and cuts of bone-in Capocollo from Martina Franca.

And, in the glass? Talò Primitivo di Manduria, the king of Pugliese reds, from the Cantine San Marzano in the province of Taranto, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(May 18^th) Today is the 71st day of Italy’s nationwide lockdown. With no desire to travel and with plenty of time on our hands, Chef Double O shucked peas today from organically grown pods and prepped one of our favorite dishes when we lived up north in the Veneto: risi e bisi (rice and peas) with a touch of smoked speck. It was stay-at-home delicious!

And, in the glass? Fedora, a DOC-rated Castel del Monte blend of Bombino Bianco, Chardonnay and Pampanuto varietals from the Cantine Rivera of Andria in the province of Barletta, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(May 22^nd) We’ve now arrived at the 74th floor of Italy’s nationwide lockdown. While we’re here we might as well wish Sir Arthur Conan Doyle — creator of master sleuth Sherlock Holmes — a happy birthday, as he was born on this day back in 1859.

Meanwhile, in the Villa Allegra kitchen, Chef Double O deduced that tonight’s dish should be whole-wheat, flatbread pizzas topped with pesto, salame Milanese, cherry tomatoes and toasted black olives. The pies were so tasty that they were worthy of home delivery to 221B Baker Street.

And, in the glass? Tramari (Between the Seas), a light and elegant Primitivo rosato from Cantine San Marzano in the province of Taranto, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(May 28^th) The only thing that I have in common with Phileas Fogg, a London-born aristocat, and Passepartout, his French valet, is that I’ve spent 80 days now in Italy’s lockdown while the aforementioned pair circumnavigated the globe in 80 days through the imagination of Jules Verne.

Meanwhile, down here on terra firma, Chef Double O plucked several handfuls of our homegrown artichokes from the garden and made them the star of tonight’s menu: a baked lasagne filled with artichokes and spinach. After the first bite, I felt like I was sailing high above in the clouds with Messrs. Fogg and Passepartout aboard their hot-air balloon.

And, in the glass? Maresco, a Valle d’Itria varietal of the AlmaD’Itria line of wines at the Upal Cooperative in Cisternino, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

(June 2^nd) Eighty-five days ago Italy came to a screeching halt, but tomorrow we’ll all be allowed to move freely from one region to another without purpose, but with caution, i.e. masks and social distancing, wherever we roam. Chef Double O and I, however, will remain in place, here at Villa Allegra, as if the lockdown never ended, just to err on the safe side.

We’ve enjoyed keeping you company at dinnertime with her creative dishes and my photographic documentation of the same. So, without further adieu, here’s the final WBT offering: baked swordfish Livornese style with potatoes, cherry tomatoes and black olives.

And, in the glass? Fi, an excellent Fiano varietal from Cantine Risveglio in the province of Brindisi, here in Puglia.

Buon appetito!

The post What’s Burning Tonight: Dishes for a Pandemic appeared first on Traveling Archive.