Gochujang is a Korean red chili paste that's sweet, spicy, and savory all at the same time, perfect for sauces and marinades. You can find it in many Southern California supermarkets and Korean specialty stores. If you live outside of SoCal, you can probably order it online.

In fall, 2019, I set out for the West Village in a monsoon. It was the last night of a small, culturally significant exhibit that I wanted to catch. At the designated address, I walked into a darkened courtyard, seemingly the patio of a shuttered restaurant on the far side of the enclosure, certainly not a gallery.