Greece Archives - Traveling Archive

An Eastern Mediterranean Odyssey

Ed Boitano — Sun, 14 Nov 2021 17:20:00 +0000

The towering Star Clipper.

Traveling Boy photographer, Deb Roskamp, takes time off to climb the Star Clipper’s mast. Photo courtesy of John Dann.

In Homer’s epic poem, The Odyssey, the mythical Greek character Odysseus builds a raft and attempts to return to his home island of Ithaca. But Odysseus’ enemy, Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, unleashes a storm and the raft is destroyed. Half-drowned, Odysseus washes ashore on the island of Corfu. He staggers into an olive grove and collapses.

My arrival on Corfu was a slightly different experience. Poseidon must have been smiling for the seas were calm and shimmering. And my mode of transportation was the 360 feet long luxury sailing vessel the Star Clipper – whose Tropical Bar was always open.

The Star Clipper

Arriving on a sweltering summer day in Venice, the embarkation city for the Star Clipper, was similar to being at Disneyland on opening day. But who was I complain; after all I was a tourist too, and Venice demands a visit from each and everyone one of us. I took comfort in the shade at Piazza San Marco, the epicenter of Venice, complete with pigeons and musicians. A look at my map illustrated the enthralling journey before me. Soon, I was refreshed and on my way, but at a rather slow pace.

Napoleon I called Piazza San Marco the “drawing room of Europe.” Photograph courtesy of Tiia Monto via Wikimedia Commons.

Prisoner’s last gasp of Venice from the Bridge of Sighs. Photograph courtesy of Rambling Traveler via Wikimedia Commons.

By the time I reached the Bridge of Sighs, the crowd before it had grown so thick that (ironically) I could barely look above their mandatory Venetian straw hats to get a glimpse of the famous window which prisoners would pass and take their final view of Venice before their descent into the darkness of the dungeons. A petite woman asked me to take a photo of the window with her camera; so she could actually see it later. Further along my walk I paid witness to the Doge’s Palace (home of the de facto ruler of Venice), took a Vaporetto cruise down the Grand Canal, and had a sampling of Venice’s famed seafood and risotto – which was different from the risotto I had consumed in Milan and Turino, who both claim its origin. Later in the afternoon, dressed rather inappropriately as a Yankee in shorts, I remembered that Harry’s Bar & Grill was one of Hemingway’s favorite stomping grounds and decided to stroll in for a cocktail. A giant hand abruptly stopped my entrance: “No shorts!” “You’d let Hemingway in wearing shorts,” I replied. “Yes, but you are obviously not him.”

Vaporetto (waterbus) on the Canaledella Giudecca. Photograph courtesy of Marc Ryckaert via Wikimedia Commons.

View of the Venice Skyline from the Molino Stucky Hilton terrace and pool. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.

Earlier, the water taxi ride from the airport to the stunning Molino Stucky Hilton proved to be a glorious introduction to Venice. The 45-minute journey glided through the shallow marsh lands with stops at numerous islands. It provoked thoughts of the era when Venice, due to its strategic position of waterways between east and west for trade, was one of the strongest and most affluent empires in the world.

A Jewish shop in the former Ghetto in Venice by Giovanni Dall’Orto, Wikimedia Commons

But, I found a stop at another one of Venice’s connected islands particularly disturbing. Its former name Ghetto Vecchio (initially Ghèto) originated in Venice, from the copper foundry that existed on the island before the arrival of people of Jewish ancestry. By law, Venetian Jews were relegated to live within the gated and walled area to segregate them from the surrounding Christian population in Venice. Jewish life has been restricted throughout the world for centuries, but the first use of the disdainful name was declared in Venice.

At first, it seemed strange to me that I would be staying at a Hilton property in Venice, but that was before my eyes set on the palatial Molino Stucky Hilton, a former flour mill that has been painstakingly refurbished into a swank hotel, but still very much in the Venetian character. Luxuriating by the roof top pool, with Venice’s unforgettable city skyline in the distance, it occurred to me that I was experiencing something that even a Doge in all his glory would find unimaginable. Considered one of Venice’s newest landmarks, accommodations were both spacious and elegant. Trips to the Rialto Bar & Lounge offered complimentary regional snacks, coffee and the Venetian mainstays of spritz, grappa and Prosecco. It was a wonderful venue to relax and refresh after a return on the hotel’s free shuttle boat that takes guests to Venice’s major attractions.

MALI LOŠINJ, CROATIA

The Clipper departed for the first stop of my 11-day odyssey on the Croatian island of Mali Lošinj. The most low-key of all the ports, it was a good place to stretch your legs and take a swim in its waters among local Croat families and children. Simply siting on the water’s bedside and watching families frolic in a non-touristic area was what I most fondly remember.

HVAR, CROATIA

The idyllic island of Hvar is an oasis of lavender fields and ancient olive trees, once a getaway for the Romans. Lavender season is when the fields are covered in purple blossoms, and the air is filled with the exotic scent of the plant. There are two ports on the islands which both offer history as well as the culture of today. My guide informed me that it’s still popular for the rich and famous, with some American computer billionaire named Bill recently vacationing there in his yacht.

Vantage point of Old Town Dubrovnik’s famous red terra cotta roofs from 10th century wall. Photograph courtesy of Deb Roskamp.

DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

George Bernard Shaw was so enamored by Dubrovnik’s Old Town, that he once said “Those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik and see Dubrovnik.” Layered with 1,400 years of history, walking the entire distance of the 10th century Old Town wall is mandatory. Dubrovnik suffered considerable damage in the 1991/2 war known as the Siege of Dubrovnik, fought between the Yugoslav People’s Army (Serbia and Montenegro) and Croatian forces in their quest for independence. The bombing of Old Town – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – led to international condemnation, and became a public relations disaster for Serbia and Montenegro, contributing to their diplomatic and economic isolation on the world stage. Upon my arrival the city had been restored to its former glory, but it was easy to notice that many of Old Town’s famous red terra cotta roof tiles were a little irregular due to 70% of their destruction during this war. When the sun came down, a countless number of friendly youths poured into the Old Town for fun and excitement, including women – some over 6 ft. tall, not counting their towering high heels. Now I know how Napoleon must have felt.

KOTOR, BOKA FJORD, MONTENEGRO

Charming villages rested along the shore as we sailed deep into the heart of Boka Fjord, the largest fjord of the Mediterranean Sea. Four hours was not enough for the medieval town of Kotor, but long enough to know that I will return.

Corfu, an important site In Homer’s the Odyssey. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.

CORFU, GREECE

In Corfu, the lushest of all the Greek Islands, rests the village Paleocastrit. In Homer’s the Odyssey, it is the setting where Odysseus was washed ashore after 20-years abroad. Homer was a traveling blind poet whose two epic poems, the Iliad and the Odyssey, orally composed and conveyed around the late eighth or early seventh century BC, are considered the very foundation of ancient Greek literature. We were hungry for knowledge but our stomachs won out, choosing to enjoy the lofty site while sitting at a hillside café sipping Retsina and picking at small bites of spanakopita, xtapodi (octopus) and feta saganaki (pan fried feta cheese). My conversation with our photographer covered just how little we actually knew of Greek Mythology.

A view of Sparta from the vantage point of the Castle of Mystras, with Mount Parnon in the distance. Photograph courtesy of George E. Koronaios, Wikimedia Commons.

Yithion – Sparta – Mystras, GREECE

The next port of call was Yithion, once an ancient site and principal port of the Sparta. Now it’s a small town of about 5,000 citizens without any important touristic components. Our attempt at a better understanding of Greek Mythology told us it was where Helen of Troy; Helen, Queen of Sparta; the most beautiful woman in the world had been abducted by Paris of Troy, leading to the Trojan War. The bus ride was long from the port to the once dominant military city-state in ancient Greece, and was disappointed to find that Sparta was buried a mile underground, covered with the ashes of time.

View of the Castle of Mystras and its frecoes. (Top) Photograph courtesy of Aeleftherios, Wikimedia Commons.
(Left bottom) Photo courtesy sailko via Wikimedia Commons; (right bottom) Photo courtesy of Joy of Museums.

Our final destination was the abandoned fortified town of Mystra for a look at Byzantine frescoes in 14th century churches. During its period of prosperity, the city attracted artists, architects and philosophers of the highest order.

Santorini rests in the most southern part of Aegean Sea. Photograph by Deb Roskamp.

SANTORINI, GREECE

With villages built on tall cliffs, complete with white-washed churches and cobblestone streets leading to tavernas, Santorini is the archetypical Greek picture postcard island. In 1500 BC, a volcanic eruption destroyed the center of the island, leaving a crescent shaped rim of cliffs around the harbor. Santorini is actually a group of islands consisting of Thira, Thirassia, Aspronissi, Palea and Nea Kameni in the southernmost part of the Cyclades. For over 4,000 years, poets have sung its praises. In Greek Mythology, the eternal rock continues to stand majestically above the sea, guarding the secrets of Atlantis.

MYKONOS, GREECE

Someone on the vessel had clearly upset Poseidon, for the trip to Mykonos was cancelled due to rough seas. Many were disappointed, but we had been warned that this was the price one might pay when sailing a smaller vessel. The good news: another day to spend with my new friends. I think I read where Odysseus made a few friends on his odyssey too.

Epilogue

That Was Venice Then and This is Venice Today

Photo courtesy of Venezia Autentica/Sebastian Fagarazzi.

Overtourism, the result of having too many visitors arrive at a place at the same time, has become a major problem for popular destinations like Venice.

Cheaper international airfares, the growth of the cruise market, and the emergence of cheap accommodation options such as Airbnb are fueling the overtourism phenomenon. Venice, in particular, but not exclusively, is feeling the effects, struggling to cope with the huge influx of visitors. Venice’s city fathers have recently issued guidelines to reduce tourist overcrowding, but only time will tell.

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Vicarious Culinary Travel During a Pandemic

Richard Frisbie — Thu, 25 Mar 2021 23:35:54 +0000

Just because we can’t travel during the Covid-19 pandemic, doesn’t mean we can’t still explore the culinary traditions of various countries from the comfort of our own kitchens.

This wasn’t a conscious thought. As the travel restrictions weighed more heavily upon me I started to broaden my cooking, unconsciously seeking out new recipes from favorite countries that reminded me of my visits. Then one day I realized I’d taken a grand tour of Europe without leaving my dinner table. Over the course of two weeks I cooked ten different international meals. With the resulting leftovers and lunches I had 14 days of reminiscences of past visits while enjoying the taste of each country.

And it wasn’t just Europe I visited. I went to Cuba (I wish!) New England (a favorite summer haunt) and to North Africa for an adventurous dish. But it really all started rather simply in Mexico.

Taco Bowls created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

I’m a big fan of tacos, but not one of “messy eating around the dinner table” tacos. So now I make taco bowls to be eaten with a fork and spoon. Yes I’ll still eat tacos as street food, say, in Mexico City, with sauce dripping down my chin and arms, but doesn’t this look more inviting?

The next evening I was transported to Spain over a dish of Chicken Chilindron. This dish could be from any Mediterranean country except for the addition of smoked paprika, a.k.a. smoked pimenton, a very distinctive Spanish spice added for its red smoky heat. The aroma and taste had me right back in Extremadura, Spain, where smoked pimenton has its own DOC.

Spanish Chicken Chilindron created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

Portuguese Cod Cakes created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

For a Friday in Lent I made cod cakes. The Iberian Peninsula is historically connected to cod, with Basque fishermen crossing the Atlantic, way before Columbus “discovered” the New World, to catch and dry fish for transport back home. All the salt cod you see today is descended from their preserving tradition. The Portuguese fished New England’s cod banks as well. This recipe is from an older Portuguese woman I once knew. It is healthier and more complex than the deep fried Spanish cod croquettes I love.

The next three dishes could easily be lumped into an Italian trifecta. Not that I was on a roll here. And certainly pizza the way I make it has nothing to do with Italy. But it’s still good and does have Italian-American roots. No, these reflect a desire for a more extended stay in the boot of Europe.

Dishes created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTOS BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

And while the scallops in white wine and garlic could be found along any Mediterranean coast, serving them on pasta got the dish included here.

Bolognese Sauce and Ravioli created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

But the true dish of Italy I made was a huge batch of slow-cooked Bolognese sauce, fragrantly simmering all day in my kitchen. It made a great base for some homemade ravioli I enjoyed for many days before freezing a quart for another trip, er, I mean meal. And speaking of slow cooking, I also made a vat of Pasta e Fagioli, unconventionally using some Rancho Gordo pinto beans I got as a Christmas gift. (If nothing else, we’ve all learned to improvise ingredients during this pandemic shut down.) I enjoyed the soup’s rich deliciousness many times.

Then, while I was in the neighborhood, I thought I’d skip across the Mediterranean to taste a bit of Ethiopia. It wasn’t my plan, but I was inspired by a description of berbera spice mix on Milk Street Radio one Sunday. Apparently Ethiopians put berbera spice in everything, everyday, and each house has its own distinctive blend. I researched the basic recipe and made my own, adding and subtracting to my tastes. By the second batch I knew to use less hot ingredients, so everyone in the household can enjoy this taste of North Africa. The result is Doro Wat, an Ethiopian chicken dish with a red onion to chicken ratio of 1:1, a head of garlic, and a half cup of berbera spice blend. Wow! Just Wow! I doubled the next batch of berbera I made so I can use it every day, too.

Doro Wat created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

Europe bound once more, I had a layover in Greece, because I always wanted to. And because I had all the ingredients for this delicious sounding dish: Greek Braised Chicken, a.k.a. Kota Kapama. It’s not what you’d think – no olives or feta cheese – just a healthy amount of cinnamon and allspice rubbed into the skin-on chicken thighs before they are braised in a tomato and wine stock. It was just so fragrant and tasty – Yum!

Kota Kapama created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

Quiche created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

On my last visit to France (and the word “last” takes on new meaning during this pandemic as I wonder if we’ll ever travel again . . . ) I was in the Lorraine region when I remarked that during my entire visit I had not tasted the celebrated local dish, quiche. Arrangements were promptly made, and quiche was served with drinks before dinner, by a chef who disdainfully told me that we “never serve quiche here.” (I can only throw my hands in the air and exclaim “THE FRENCH”! when I think of it. They should serve quiche more often – and more civilly.) It was delicious. Since then I have it on rotation in my kitchen, using up bits and pieces of ingredients and things “going bad” in the refrigerator. This one used up the sheets of phyllo pastry left over from the Greek spinach and feta dish, Spanakopita, that I ate all of but neglected to photograph!

Last year a sale on pork loins left me with an eight pound loin (I cannot resist a food sale!) Half was butterflied, stuffed with herbs, wrapped in prosciutto and braised (with much work and little reward except that it was pretty) while the other was frozen. I thawed that for the next two dishes.

Dish created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

The first was a slow-cooked New England balsamic and stock braise on red potatoes and carrots. It fits the travel theme because we visit family in New England often. Coastal Maine and New Hampshire are favorites for summer fun and food, so while it wasn’t lobster rolls I was cooking, it was comfort food.

But the real reason to cook the pork, besides making room in the freezer, was for the leftover pork needed to make Cuban Sandwiches. With thinly sliced pork loin, Swiss cheese, ham, dill pickles, and two kinds of mustard layered in a crusty loaf, then pressed and grilled, these are always a favorite in our house. They were so satisfyingly chewy-delicious served with a horseradish cole slaw and a cold beer. Heaven!

Dish created by Richard Frisbie. PHOTO BY RICHARD FRISBIE.

There was another Cuban dish – Braised Chicken. It tasted great, but except for the raisins, olives, and capers it looked just like all the other chicken dishes pictured above. So, instead of looking at same ol’ same ol’, here’s a picture of the Cuban Sandwiches plated:

So wasn’t that a fun vacation to the culinary hotspots of the world? You got to read it and enjoy a vicarious tour through kitchens of seven countries, while I gained five pounds cooking and eating! Does that seem fair to you?

Do you like to recreate the dishes of your favorite vacation destinations? Please tell me about them in the comments below (and share the recipe!) Thanks for reading.

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Smartphone Photography, Top Airports, Hotel on Skis

Ed Boitano — Sun, 01 Apr 2018 18:08:28 +0000

Happy April from the Staff at Traveling Boy

We have designated 2018 to think of those who suffer from great sorry and misfortune. Here are some of our favorite charities.

10 Countries Where the Dollar Goes Furthest in 2018

Courtesy Jamie Moore, SmarterTravel

Your hard-earned dollar can take you to some incredible places where favorable exchange rates and undervalued currencies get you more bang for your buck in 2018. While the greenback isn’t as strong as it was last year, the dollar goes further in several countries you might not have expected.

Transformational Travel

In theory, we’ve always known that travel has the power to transform. On a true journey, the sights, personal interactions and chance to experience local culture can all come together to provide powerful experiences that can be life-changing.

Photo Credit: Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay; Diana and Marcin from Poland @lostitalianos

10 Secret French Villages to Discover Before the Crowds Do

Courtesy Sarah Schlichter, SmarterTravel

With tourists and motor coaches crowding their medieval streets, some French villages are in danger of being loved to death. These 10 villages aren’t completely off the tourist map, but they remain unspoiled by mass tourism, and offer visitors a glimpse of everyday life in the French countryside.

2018’s Best Frequent Flyer Programs

Delta SkyMiles is the best frequent flyer program for the third straight year

With U.S. airlines expected to carry more than 600 million passengers on domestic flights this year and credit card debt levels exploding, we can expect airfare savings to be increasingly important in the months ahead.

TSA says old driver’s licenses OK for air travel until 2020

Transportation Security Administration spokesman Mike England announced that driver’s licenses from all states will be acceptable identification for domestic US air travel until Oct. 1, 2020. Airport signs had previously warned that licenses from some states would no longer be acceptable as of Jan. 22, 2018.

JetBlue’s ‘All You Can Jet’ Pass Is Back

Courtesy Cynthia Drescher

Courtesy JetBlue

How many free flights can you fit into one year?

Buy one flight, get a full year of flights for free. It sounds crazy, but it’s true for the next two weeks, as JetBlue awards travelers who book even one ticket on their website with a chance to win one of three ‘All You Can Jet’ passes for 2018. Dubbed “AYCJ” for short, the pass allows for unlimited travel from February 1, 2018 through January 31, 2019. Hopefully winners are bursting with wanderlust, as these AYCJ passes will be valid for flights to the more than 100 cities on JetBlue’s route map, including international destinations like Mexico City, Grand Cayman, Bermuda, St. Lucia, and Cartagena, Colombia.

12 Things You Should Never Do in an Airport Security Line

Courtesy Neil Gladstone

Photo courtesy: pittaya/Flickr

If you’ve ever wondered whether airport agents perform a necessary function, take a look at the TSA Instagram account. You’ll find a stupefying collection of objects confiscated from passengers, including axes, crossbows, and handguns (and that’s just in the last few days). Acting foolishly, though, can get you delayed from a flight or even detained. To help explain what you shouldn’t do in an airport security line, we tapped Lewis Sage-Passant, a former British infantry officer who is trained in intelligence and has worked in security and crisis management for several corporations, including Goldman-Sachs. These days, he runs How Safe Is My Trip, a company that creates advisory reports for people going to risky destinations.

Caribbean Hot Spots and Travel Trends for 2018

Courtesy Gay Nagle Myers

Photo courtesy of Norwegian Cruise Line

Who is going where this winter? And which destinations are trending? Steve Lassman, vice president of villa product and agency relations for Villas of Distinction, ticked off 2018’s five most sought after villa-vacation destinations, two of which — Turks and Caicos and Jamaica — are in the Caribbean.

Being on the ground in over 180 countries means you get the full story.

Together in Spirit – The Best Friends Animal Society

At the core of Best Friends Animal Society’s work is the dream that one day animals will no longer be killed in America’s shelters.

5 Smartphone Photography Tips from Thanda Safari

Christian Sperka Resident Wildlife Photographer and Field Guide at South African safari destination says you can travel light and photograph like a heavyweight.

Changi Airport Singapore is Voted the World’s Best Airport for the 6th Consecutive Year at the 2018 World Airport Awards

Singapore Changi Airport has been named as the World’s Best Airport by air travelers for the sixth consecutive year at the 2018 Skytrax World Airport Awards, held at Passenger Terminal EXPO in Stockholm, Sweden.

A New Hotel on Skis Is Launched in Finland, Perfect for Watching the Northern Lights in Bed

Photo credit: Kilpissafarit

Northern Finland is the site of a new hotel experience where a well-appointed glamping cabin is towed into a remote wilderness location, deep in the Arctic Circle. The cabin is one of three rooms that are then moved to an optimal spot for lying back to experience the Northern lights from the comfort of your bed.

México Tourism Launches New Heritage Initiative in Los Angeles

Photo courtesy: Mexico Department of Tourism

Fresh off a record-breaking year of visitation, the Mexico Tourism Board is rolling out a new marketing initiative, “Viajemos Todos por México,” (Let’s All Travel Across Mexico), with the aim of attracting many of the 35 million U.S. citizens who identify as being of Mexican descent. The campaign, which celebrates Mexico’s beauty and its cultural and natural wonders, is designed to remind Mexican-Americans that those treasures belong to them.

The World’s Most Popular Travel Experiences, According to TripAdvisor

Courtesy Carl Unger

TripAdvisor recently released its 2018 Travel Trends Report, naming the most popular travel experiences, tours, and activities booked by its users last year. The data points to a shift toward non-traditional and experiential activities as travelers look to expand their options.

Top 25 Most Interesting Webcams

Selected from hundreds of nominees by a panel of EarthCam producers, EarthCam announces the most unique and compelling webcams of the year.

Norwegian Named Value Airline of the Year by Air Transport World

Photo credit: Steve Bates/Norwegian Airlines

Norwegian, the World’s Best Low-Cost Long-Haul Airline and Airline of the Year 2017, was named on Feb. 12 the Value the Airline of the Year’ by Air Transport World, the leading monthly magazine for the airline industry, and will receive the award at the ATW Airline Industry Achievement Awards on March 28.

The global panel of judges were highly impressed with Norwegian’s achievements and entrepreneurial spirit. Norwegian has truly shaken up the all-important transatlantic market, introducing quality service at low prices, and demonstrating that long-haul can be done at low cost.

Countries That Require Visas for Americans

The State Department’s Office of American Citizens Services and Crisis Management (ACS) administers the Consular Information Program, which informs the public of conditions abroad that may affect their safety and security. Country Specific Information, Travel Alerts, and Travel Warnings are vital parts of this program.

How to Fight Jet Lag

Being outside during daylight, exercising early and avoiding caffeine, alcohol or nicotine before bedtime can help lessen the effects of jet lag after returning home across time zones. Complete recovery can take multiple days.

Volunteer Vacations with Projects Abroad

Choosing a volunteer vacation abroad is an increasingly popular option among people looking to do meaningful work during their vacation or career break. You can spend as little as 1 week volunteering in over 30 different countries around the world with Projects Abroad. By spending your vacation as a volunteer with Projects Abroad, you are joining a community of fellow volunteers and local people in developing countries – working hard, traveling, and having a good time while contributing to long-term impact.

The post Smartphone Photography, Top Airports, Hotel on Skis appeared first on Traveling Archive.

An Escape to Five Island Destinations

Ringo Boitano — Mon, 12 Mar 2018 23:50:27 +0000

Soothing trade winds caress the landscape. Palm trees sway in the breeze. Gentle waves blanket the golden sand. Please forgive this stilted attempt to be descriptive – but I’m feeling a bit of the pre-holiday stress, and I thought it was fitting to emotionally escape to some of my favorite island destination. Come to think of it, they’re not all tropical. But an island is an island.

PHOTO CREDIT: ASGEIR HELGESTAD/ARCTIC LIGHT AS/VisitNorway.com

Svalbard, Norway – Wildlife

As late as 1990 there was virtually no tourism to the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard. Located between the Norwegian mainland and the North Pole, Svalbard was first the place for explorers, then whalers and coal miners. But thanks to companies like Hurtigruten – the Norwegian Coastal Voyage, it is now on the tourist map for the whole world to see. My adventure began aboard the coastal steamer MS Nordstjernen from Longyearbyen – the most northern city in the world. Heading northwest, I experienced breathtaking fjords, calving glaciers, unique animal and plant life, and a midnight sun that refused to go down. Over 60% of the archipelago consists of national parks, nature reserves, and bird or plant sanctuaries. Only four land mammals can survive on this barren tundra: the Svalbard reindeer, the Arctic fox, the Svalbard mouse and the polar bear – which has become the very symbol of Svalbard. The largest living land carnivore, they are considered the only animal that actively hunts humans. Actual encounters with this mighty species are rare, but their presence is felt all around. Visitors cannot leave settlements without a weapon or armed guide, and instructions are given on what to do with an unexpected encounter. From the deck of the vessel, I spotted a mother and her cub sleeping on an iceberg. After a couple of restless nights of my own, I would have liked to have asked them how they managed to sleep through the midnight sun.

PHOTO CREDIT: DEB ROSKAMP

Tahiti & Her Islands – Cuisine

The first thing you notice is the fragrance. The intoxicating perfume of the tiara flower announces to your senses that you are in a tropical world, overflowing with island vegetation and soothing trade winds. Indigenous Tahitian cuisine features what’s available from the land and sea. With such a plethora of fresh fruit and fish, it is virtually impossible to starve on the islands. Due to presence of the French (Tahiti is part of French Polynesia) there is a delectable hybrid of French and Polynesian creations. Coconut milk and vanilla – much stronger than the vanilla found in Mexico – are incorporated in many of the dishes. Poisson Cru, tuna cured in lime juice with chopped green onions, cucumbers and tomatoes; and Fife, a chicken stew with spinach-like taro leaves are among my favorites. The taro root (more flavorful than Hawaiian poi) is boiled like potatoes and not pounded. Breadfruit, sweet potatoes, and plantains also offer typical island starch fare. Mangoes, bananas, watermelon, pineapple, papaya, guava, sour sop and pummelo are in abundance. From the lagoons come parrotfish, perch, and mullet; from the open sea the freshest of tuna, bonito, Wahoo, scad and mahi mahi. For an insightful overview of these gastronomic delights, visit the main market in downtown Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. Bon appétit!

PHOTO CREDIT: DEB ROSKAMP

Corfu, Greece – Literature

In Homer’s epic poem, the Odyssey, the mythical Greek character Odysseus builds a raft and attempts to return to his home island of Ithaca. But Odysseus’ enemy, Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, unleashes a storm and the raft is destroyed. Half-drowned, Odysseus washes ashore on the island of Corfu. He staggers into an olive grove and collapses. My arrival on Corfu was a slightly different experience. Poseidon must have been smiling for the seas were calm and shimmering. And my mode of transportation was the 360 feet long luxury sailing vessel the, Star Clipper – but my thoughts were colored by Homer in preparation for my arrival. In the story, Odysseus is found by a local family who nurse him back to health. Soon he tells the family of his 20-year odyssey, which began with his departure for the Trojan War. Homer, a traveling blind minstrel, articulates the narrative orally in “heroic hexameter” – known as a form of meter in poetry or rhythmic scheme. His approach to the story is considered by many a landmark in literature as the first-time most of a story is told in flashback. Today, odyssey means ‘an extended adventurous voyage or spiritual quest.’ I’ve often wondered how Odysseus was pronounced in Greek. So with a look of a surprise when the question was proposed to a local resident, I was told, ‘O-da-Say-us,’ of course!”

PHOTO CREDIT: VENICE TOURISM

Venice – Romance

Arriving in Venice on a sweltering summer morning is similar to negotiating Disneyland on opening day. Hordes of day-tripping tourists pour into the city in search of Venice’s seemingly endless attractions that include San Marco, the Rialto Bridge, the Bridge of Sighs, Doge’s Palace, fish market, various boat excursions on the Grand Canal, and a sampling of Venice’s famed seafood and risotto. With a dwindling population of 90,570 designated as permanent ‘lagoon city’ residents, it has been said that every door in Venice now leads to a shop. But who was I to complain – after all, I was a tourist too, and Venice now belongs to the world. For many, the centerpiece of a trip to Venice is taking a gondola ride on one of its many canals. It is touristic, can be expensive and you’ll find a plethora of hungry gondoliers anxious to take you on a short trip. My advice is to wait until the sun goes down, when most tourists have left the island, and taking a gondola ride on the quiet, back canals, avoiding bumper to bumper gondolas during the daytime. Riding on canals in less touristic areas allows you see a different perspective of the city. The best way to do it is to walk a few blocks off the Grand Canal and look for a gondolier who is anxious to please. At that point, you can choose what neighborhood you want to explore. A standard gondola ride is 40 minutes – and yes, to my surprise, it was romantic. The gondolier even honored my request to refrain from singing as he gently maneuvered the gondola through Venice’s back canals.

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Catch Up With the Latest Traveling Boy News

Ed Boitano — Wed, 28 Feb 2018 03:40:37 +0000

Happy March from the Staff at Traveling Boy

We have designated 2018 to think of those who suffer from great sorry and misfortune. Here are some of our favorite charities.

Greece Cuisine, Culture & Wellness Tour

Featuring Celebrity Chef & Mediterranean Diet Advocate, Amy Riolo

Get Global Expeditions (GGEx) is excited to offer a late spring 2018 journey to Greece that will showcase its effusive hospitality, Zorba-like zest for living, staggering beauty, incredible history, contemporary challenges – and its trademark simple, delicious, and healthy cuisine – for which this country is renowned. GGEx’s Greece expert, Alex Safos, and celebrity chef, author, and Mediterranean Diet advocate, Amy Riolo, will lead this delectable, intimate, enlightening, and picturesque tour.

10 Countries Where the Dollar Goes Furthest in 2018

Courtesy Jamie Moore, SmarterTravel

Here are insider tips on the travel destinations where your dollar goes furthest in 2018.

Can’t Be Topped: Neapolitan-Style Pizza Making Wins UNESCO Heritage Status

Courtesy Amy Held, NPR

Photo courtesy of Amirali Mirhashemian via Unsplash

When a UNESCO World Heritage Site comes to mind, perhaps it has the natural splendor of the Great Barrier Reef or the imposing mastery of the Pyramids of Giza. Now one may look no further than the humble pizza for world heritage status. No, not the frozen kind, the old-school kind baked in a wood-fired oven. Recently, Pizzaiuolo, the art of Neopolitan pizza-making, was added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. UNESCO says the designation is meant to safeguard and raise awareness about forms of cultural heritage — often passed down from generation to generation — before they die out.

Traveling Boy’s Fyllis Hockman Wins Silver Excellence in Travel Journalism

The North American Travel Journalists Association’s (NATJA) Travel Media Awards Competition winners were announced February 5, 2018. The Media Awards are given to publications, travel journalists, and photographers whose work was published in print and online media.

Ms. Hockman took the highly-coveted silver for her stunning blog in Traveling Boy, “Exploring Venice: Lost and Found. And Special Finds. Repeat.” in the Byline Travel Column category, where there were over a 1000 entries in the contest.

Seven Seas Mariner Drydock to Complete Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ $125 Million Fleetwide Refurbishment Program

First all-suite, all-balcony ship to return to Alaskan waters more resplendent than ever and offers three-category upgrade for travelers

Photo courtesy of Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Regent Seven Seas Cruises, the most inclusive luxury experience, confirmed details for the upcoming bow-to-stern refurbishment of Seven Seas Mariner, the world’s first all-suite, all-balcony cruise ship. After a 20-day drydock in April 2018 at Chantier Naval de Marseille, Seven Seas Mariner will re-emerge with dramatic new culinary experiences, elegant new suite designs, and completely renewed modern guest spaces. After her drydock refurbishment, Seven Seas Mariner will immediately reposition to the Pacific Northwest to take travelers on a fully immersive, luxury Alaska experience.

2018’s Best Frequent Flyer Programs

Delta SkyMiles is the best frequent flyer program for the third straight year

France and Germany Top New Sustainable Tourism Index by The Economist Intelligence Unit

TSA says old driver’s licenses OK for air travel until 2020

JetBlue’s ‘All You Can Jet’ Pass Is Back

Courtesy Cynthia Drescher

Courtesy JetBlue

How many free flights can you fit into one year?

10 of the World’s Craziest Landings

Courtesy Ashley Rossi

These 10 airports have some of the craziest landings in the world. Fretful flyers, you’ve been warned.

Flying can be a nerve-racking experience for fretful travelers; however, landings at these 10 airports are sure to frighten even the most frequent flyers. From an airport at the edge of a cliff to sandy beach landings, here are the world’s craziest runways — consider yourself warned.

12 Things You Should Never Do in an Airport Security Line

Courtesy Neil Gladstone

Photo courtesy: pittaya/Flickr

Top 25 Most Interesting Webcams

Selected from hundreds of nominees by a panel of EarthCam producers, EarthCam announces the most unique and compelling webcams of the year.

8 Weird Things You’re Allowed to Bring on Planes

Courtesy Stefanie Waldek

Many travelers know the drill when it comes to packing your carry-on bag for a flight. Make sure your bag fits the size and weight requirements. Check to see if you’re allowed to bring a personal item in addition to a full-sized carry-on. No liquids greater than 3.4 ounces, no firearms, no large sharp objects. There are seemingly endless banned items, but if you read the fine print, there’s actually a whole range of odd things that you’re actually allowed to fly with. Here, we name eight such items.

Falcons
Antlers
Christmas Trees
Pies and Cakes
Cremated Remains
Camp Stoves
Parachutes
Bowling Balls

Together in Spirit – The Best Friends Animal Society

At the core of Best Friends Animal Society’s work is the dream that one day animals will no longer be killed in America’s shelters.

2018’s Best Cities for St. Patrick’s Day Celebrations

Courtesy Diana Popa, WalletHub

With St. Patrick’s Day around the corner and at least $5.9 billion expected to be spent for the holiday this year, the personal-finance website WalletHub today released its report on 2018’s Best Cities for St. Patrick’s Day Celebrations, along with cool stats about the holiday in its St. Patrick’s Day infographic.

To determine the best cities for celebrating Irish-American heritage, WalletHub compared 200 of the largest U.S. cities across 17 key metrics, ranging from Irish pubs and restaurants per capita to lowest price for a three-star hotel on St. Patrick’s Day to weather forecast.

México Tourism Launches New Heritage Initiative in Los Angeles

Photo courtesy: Mexico Department of Tourism

The World’s Most Popular Travel Experiences, According to TripAdvisor

Courtesy Carl Unger

Reinventing Travel: FlixBus Celebrates Five Years of Booming Business

Photo by flixbus.com

Five years ago, inspired by the deregulation of the German bus market, the first FlixBus hit the road with a goal of providing green and smart mobility for everyone to experience the world. Today, over 100 million people have travelled across Europe with FlixBus, disrupting the traditional view of long-distance travel and supporting the shared mobility trend.

The success of FlixBus spans multiple demographics, with 60 percent of users being females who choose the green buses as their preferred mode of shared mobility due to the safety, comfort and price point. Thirty-three percent of FlixBus customers are between 18 and 25 years old.

Austrian Wine Walking Tour

Herzerl Tours’ Austrian Wine Walking Tour has been nominated by InfoHub.com as their Unordinary Trip of the Month. InfoHub is the #1 travel portal on the Internet specialized in the out-of-ordinary, special interest adventures. The tour is a great opportunity to feel the taste of the genuine Austrian wine culture. Herzerl Tours is offering our guests a special prize!

Volunteer Vacations with Projects Abroad

Active Gourmet Holidays: Exceptional Travel Experiences

Unique French Cooking Vacation at Marouatte Castle in Southwest France

Active Gourmet Holidays brings its clients a culinary vacation that is set in a 14^th century fortified castle in Périgord Vert, France. Chateau Marouatte is a stunning castle steeped in history and now fully restored as an amazing family home.

Perched on a hill in the Green Périgord, Marouatte enjoys spectacular panoramic views over the surrounding countryside. This majestic environment is the perfect setting for creativity, inspiration and relaxation and has been a songwriting retreat for invited musicians and songwriters for over 20 years. Creating a culinary retreat was a natural next step.

Ways to Save in 2018

Eight tips to help keep your travel expenses nominal and your wallet fat this year.

Courtesy Lucas Peterson, New York Times

Last year may have been a disappointing Dumpster fire in countless ways, but it was a great year for travel deals — saving money has never been easier or more accessible to more people. Looking forward to 2018, there’s no reason to think it should be any different. Here are eight tips to help keep your travel expenses nominal and your wallet fat.

Norwegian Named Value Airline of the Year by Air Transport World

Photo credit: Steve Bates/Norwegian Airlines

Countries That Require Visas for Americans

Caribbean Hot Spots and Travel Trends for 2018

Courtesy Gay Nagle Myers

Photo courtesy of Norwegian Cruise Line

12 Ways to Have a Luxury Vacation for Less

Luxury travel usually means expensive travel. But you can take upscale vacations without breaking the bank. Here are some outside-the-box ways to get almost as much…for a lot less.

By Karen Tina Harrison

Choose Emerging over Established Destinations

It’s very hard to economize in a super-expensive destination. So my advice is: to save money, don’t go there. Think different. Go to a place that delivers a lot of what you love about your fantasy destination, but at real-life tabs.

Here are some ideas

How to Fight Jet Lag

Being on the ground in over 180 countries means you get the full story.

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Z – A Look Back

Walt Mundkowsky — Sat, 10 Feb 2018 17:42:35 +0000

Director: Costa-Gavras

Writers: Vasilis Vasilikos (novel), Jorge Semprún (dialogue)

Cinematography: Raoul Coutard

Music: Mikis Theodorakis

Orchestrator: Bernard Gérard

Sound editing: Michèle Boëhm

Stars: Yves Montand, Irene Papas, Jean-Louis Trintignant, François Périer, Jacques Perrin, Charles Denner, Bernard Fresson, Marcel Bozzuffi, Renato Salvatori

Z – A Look Back

By Walt Mundkowsky

Costa-Gavras’ Z predisposes one to admire it, as the first film to indict the brutal military regime in Greece; in fact, the music by the long-imprisoned Mikis Theodorakis had to be smuggled out of the country. From the bitter opening title card (“Any similarity to actual events, or persons living or dead is not coincidental. It is intentional”) our sympathies are engaged. And Z is remarkably well made; not once in its 127 minutes does it relax its grip. As a political statement, however, the movie is suspect, and its style calls into question the use of melodrama for political ends.

On May 22, 1963, Gregorios Lambrakis, a professor of medicine at the University of Athens and deputy of the liberal EDA (United Democratic Left) party, went to Salonika to address a Friends of Peace rally. Leaving the meeting, he was run down by a pickup truck and died several days later. Thanks to a young investigating magistrate with extraordinary integrity and a passion for truth, the “accident” was unmasked as an assassination plotted by high-ranking officers in the gendarmerie and carried out by an organization of the extreme Right. The resulting scandal toppled the ineffectual right-center Karamanlis government. Vassilis Vassilikos, an important Greek novelist and a native Salonikan, wrote a semi-documentary novel around the Lambrakis affair; he titled it Z, symbol of the Lambrakis supporters, for the Greek verb zei — “he lives.” Z was banned shortly after the military takeover and Vassilikos fled to Paris. This is the film of his book.

Z seems not so much shot as snared: The camera is frequently on the move, hurrying after the characters; no recent movie has such a pronounced sense of forward motion. Lately, in Chabrol’s Les biches and much Godard, or in Easy Rider and Zabriskie Point, the traveling camera has seemed like so much doodling. Costa-Gavras satisfies Roy Armes’ view of Resnais’ tracking shots: “The camera is the eye of an investigator moving forward to see for himself, at first hand — the director sizing up his subject.” Raoul Coutard’s fluid Eastmancolor camerawork here is a cohesive mix of rough, slightly newsreel-like exteriors and highly composed and lit interiors. Dozens of stunning images result — the shimmering telephoto of Z’s (played by Yves Montand) plane landing, the zoom lens stabbing down an aisle to focus on the X-rays of Z’s skull fracture, the angled long shot of a virtually deserted hospital ward. Or the photographer’s entrance into the film, the camera drawing back from a screen-filling close-up of his 35 mm. Canon’s lens. Pretty pictures edited with a ruthless hand.

Sound editor Michèle Boëhm has assembled an exciting, urgent soundtrack. The hard-driving, heavily percussive Theodorakis score greatly assists the headlong pace. (One passage, when Vago comes out of the newspaper office and rips off his “disguise,” could have employed a buzzsaw.) The music would be good in any case; considering that the composer was unable to see any footage, compliments to musical arranger Bernard Gérard are in order.

At the center of the swirling action, calm as the eye of a hurricane, is the Investigator. The dedication to justice in the face of bribes and threats of all kinds does not become a self-righteous crusade, as it does in a Hollywood film; rather, it is lonely, frustrating and demanding. Jean-Louis Trintignant’s crisp, exacting vocal delivery captures the man’s love of precision. Préciser (to clarify) is a French verb, after all. He cuts off a flimsy, meandering explanation with an impatient “Je connais, je connais” (I know, I know) and greets an uneasy admission with an “Ah!” of mock surprise. A witness begins, “The day of the assassination —” “The incidents,” the Investigator interrupts her. “Say ‘the incidents.’” Later he corrects another witness, adding, “Assassination has not been proved.” When he finally uses the word assassinat himself, it has the force of a fist.

The cracking gait Z sets has its drawbacks: When an intricate plot is related with speed and efficiency, characterization is the first casualty. The sole complex character is a callous, mercenary journalist played by a superb Jacques Perrin. He is capable of astonishing charm, courage, determination, invention; capable of everything short of caring. A bleeding peace demonstrator is carried past him; he nods to his associate, “Sell to the Daily Worker” — supplying the headline — “Victims of Fascism.” He locates the assailant of another EDA deputy. “You must publish it in our paper,” the deputy tells him; but the journalist is going to put it “in a big-circulation daily. It’ll be read, and they pay.” “In an opposition paper,” he continues, “it’s nothing. It’s just ‘politics.’ But in mine, it’s news — sensational news!” He has equal disregard for both sides: His rapid-fire questions literally back Z’s confused, exhausted widow against the wall — all she can do is plead weakly, “Laissez-moi … laissez-moi” (Leave me!); similarly, the tearful confession of a thug is punctuated by a clicking camera shutter. Even Perrin’s face seems to change. Here it is all sharp planes; as the love-struck blond sailor in The Young Girls of Rochefort his features looked soft and adolescent. But this part, wonderfully realized though it is, falls outside the film’s main concern; as the Investigator says, “His motives are anything but political.”

I think Costa-Gavras realized how flat most of the characters remain. He has tried to give Montand’s Z a little depth by cutting in very brief flashbacks. Mostly they are on the Hiroshima, mon amour pattern (Manuel, a lawyer and friend of Z, attempts to console the widow by stroking her cheek — cut to Z making the same gesture), and Costa-Gavras will not make us forget Resnais; their A Man and a Woman tone (Z’s wife snuggling up to him as they drive through a rainstorm, Z playing with his children) does not help matters much — an effort to lend Z some dimension without cluttering it with psychology or deflecting its single-minded drive.

The dialogue by novelist (Le grand voyage) and screenwriter (Resnais’ La guerre est finie) Jorge Semprún is fine, but the actors do more for the lines than the lines do for them. François Périer’s oily, vacillating public prosecutor is so convincing one expects him to leave a trail as he glides across the floor. Renato Salvatori creates a chilling, funny brute out of the mere fact that Yago likes to hit people over the head with a club. Marcel Bozzufi (Vago), his homosexual partner in crime, is even better; his theatrical performance is a useful counterpoint to the film’s quasi-documentary approach. In much the same way, Charles Denner’s Manuel contrasts with the stoical EDA officials. This intense actor’s voice is the razor’s edge in operation. Costa-Gavras felt he needed Irene Papas’ presence in the cast; alas, that presence is all he asked of her. Few grasp more subtleties in bombast than Pierre Dux; his General is an assured, carefully judged turn. The ensemble is so overqualified that Magali Noël can bring her usual fire to the right-wing sister of a witness who simply wants to tell the truth (he’s Georges Géret, the pimp friend in Visconti’s film of The Stranger). And Clotilde Joano’s long, pale face and beseeching eyes fit the concerned wife of an EDA man. The English subtitles are never more than adequate, but the film couldn’t exist without the voices of these actors.

As the old Scot says, I hae me doots. One way to examine Z’s shortcomings is through Françoise Bonnot’s editing. It is brilliant in every sense: Action scenes that are staples of the secret-agent movie — the struggle in the back of a careening vehicle, the man on foot desperate to avoid being run over — are so joltingly cut it seems tiresome to complain. While Z is doing his speech, shots match his points expertly: Over dry statistics (“A strategic bomber costs as much as seven schools”) his fellow deputy is savagely beaten; “Why is peace so intolerable to them?” — the General’s jeep drives up to the crowd. But “brilliant” also means dazzling, narrowly applied, superficial. Z is a political thriller that lacks “the thrill of comprehension” (Brecht). If you know anything about recent events in Greece, your understanding will not be enlarged. Vassilikos attempts (not entirely successfully) an analysis, but not Costa-Gavras — he is unwilling to take the risk of boring us.

The potent acting and technical authority give Z the illusion of substance. It is hard to reproach any film which opposes the military rulers of present-day Greece, but one wishes Z were better. It tells us less than we want to know; despite many strong virtues, it is finally not quite enough.

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Athens in the Summer

Gary Singh — Sun, 14 May 2017 15:15:43 +0000

On a scorching overcast afternoon in the summer of 2000 the Parthenon
looks down on Athens

I have Greece on my mind these days. I am revisiting both Zorba the Greek and Henry Miller’s Colossus of Maroussi. A few recent conversations with a few different friends, brought those books back into my consciousness and how they should be required reading for the herds of tourists who invade the country on a regular basis. Hence, the conversations also brought back a scene from July of 2000 – the last time I traveled to that country.

At that time, I had no job except for a few cobbled-together freelance writing assignments. I held two degrees from the university down the street, but I had drank away any possible academic career and was living on a friend’s floor above a supermarket.

Somewhere in Athens, on a hot summer day in July of 2000

My solution to this predicament: go to Greece.

So there I was, a pre-smartphone summer, and it was way over 100 degrees in the Plaka neighbhorhood of Athens. A squawking battery of American tourist families surrounded me. In a roped-off taverna courtyard with potted plants and dust, hazed with pollution, I occupied one of a hundred tiny square formica-looking tables. A bouzouki player, older than dirt and wearing a sequined vest, plopped himself on a chair by the counter and jammed like there was no tomorrow. With a plastic fork I powered through a dirt-cheap meal on a white paper plate: a slab of tourist Moussaka, plus a native salad and something else buried with an avalanche of garlic. I found it hysterical that the Greeks would bastardize their shtick to the point of force-cramming a “Greek Salad” on throngs of tourists.

I had studied enough to order a litre of beer – megalo meant large – but since I had finished it, along with the next one, a bountiful carafe of retsina now sat in front of me on the faded orange table. While I ingested concrete fumes from nearby sewer construction and god knows what other flavors of pollution, the bone-cold retsina provided a sandy, resin-flavored counterpoint. It is the Greek chilled wine, intended to accompany native food, lift the spirits and ease the pain of a grotesquely hot summer.

None of that pain, however, was even remotely as miserable as one particular American tourist family that paraded right in front of me. The husband wore a t-shirt and shorts, plus glaring white socks and athletic shoes that would have come out oversaturated in Photoshop. The wife’s outfit included a faded paisley mumuu and a flimsy sunhat almost as big as a sombrero. Under her arm she carried a three-inch-thick Lonely Planet book, a pompous tome dedicated to the entire country of Greece. Already engrossed in a clamorous argument and drenched in sweat, the couple dragged their two distracted kids between and around the folks eating at the tables. The husband complained over and over that it was too hot, way too hot. The kids didn’t seem to mind. Their faces were filled with introverted curiosity, like they were continuously trying to figure out something in their heads.

A street vendor near the Plaka neighborhood of Athens

I was somewhat drunk, the conventional pace of time was lost, and I could not stop staring at the American family, as the husband and wife complained about the unbearable Athens heat. “It’s too hot,” they kept saying. “Let’s find a place that isn’t so hot. Why is it so hot here?” And strained variations thereof.

Taking in the heat near the Plaka neighborhood of Athens

I wanted to howl and break plates, throw a tantrum, and wring them out like soaked bar rags, all while barking: Well, you’re in Athens in July. Of course it’s freakin’ hot. What the hell’s the matter with you? You paid thousands of dollars to bring your whole family across oceans and continents to be here. In Athens. In the summer. Sheesh. Take that nine-hundred-page travel guide you’ve been lugging around the whole country, and flip it open to page three, where it probably mentions the weather and where it probably indicates that July in Athens is hot.

But I felt indecisive, distant and cowardly, so I said nothing. I just watched them leave the courtyard and disappear into a labyrinth of cobblestone walkways, the children still trying to figure out something in their heads. Meanwhile, the dust lingered and the retsina was a glory to behold. The bouzouki player broke out a chromatic gypsy ballad. I closed my eyes and continued sweating. I don’t think I ever wore white socks to Europe after that.

Henry Miller would have been proud. And now I must go back to Greece, tourists be damned.

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