To refer to one of the mightiest, most significant architectural masterpieces in Great Britain as a “building,” does NOT do it justice, nor does it fully convey the reason why you need to visit St Pauls Cathedral in London – but here’s the thing – can you get the last 36 or more words into a headline? Although I was born, and grew up in this historic metropolis called London, like many city dwellers I never took the time to visit some of my hometown’s most spectacular attractions.

Several years ago, and on a visit that had me headed towards Scotland, I decided to make time to see one of London’s most iconic buildings, St Pauls Cathedral. I was transfixed by the stunning Main Hall of this majestic edifice, and all its incredible architecture, and I wondered how come I’d waited this long to see it. I was touched by the fact that there’s a unique bond between St Paul’s and America. In WW2 28,000 Americans – who were part of the hundreds of thousands of the US military stationed in the UK – lost their lives fighting for freedom and democracy in that war. In 1948 a special American Memorial Chapel of Remembrance – unconditionally built with funds donated by Brits – was constructed to pay tribute to, and recognize, that sacrifice.

Even as a naturalized American citizen I found this chapel to be a moving and thought provoking experience, enriched by yet another US connection. This one came about due to the events of 9/11. Three days later, on September 14^th, 2001, over 2,400 people – lead by Queen Elizabeth – held a special service at St. Paul’s that commemorated the lives lost in that terrible terrorist attack of a few days earlier.

Although there have been numerous reconstructions of St Pauls, the architect most often associated with this masterpiece is Sir Christopher Wren, the fact is that not too long ago a huge project was begun in his honor, and it’s now finished.  Today’s St Pauls looks absolutely magnificent, as do all its carvings, paintings, sculptures and mosaics, indeed some have never seen before. Check out www.StPauls.co.uk and you’ll get a feel for what I mean. When you next visit London I hope you’ll find time to include this superb building on YOUR Must See list.

British history buffs know that one of the all-time classic photo images of London in WW2 is of St Pauls. It became a famous photographic icon of British courage in fighting the scourge of Nazism. The photo, for those of you who don’t know it, showed the Cathedral surrounded by fire and smoke, yet still standing strong in the face of adversity. We show it again for you, as it has come over the many Decades since WW2 ended to symbolize London standing up to the might of the nightly bombing raids of the German Luftwaffe.

The post Classic? You Bet, and It’s a MUST See “Building” in London appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Until recently Britain was portrayed as a culinary wasteland, home to overcooked, boring food and an abundance of uninspired bland chefs. There were only a few tasty exceptions to their miserable repertoire — namely, fish ‘n’ chips, tea, beer and dessert. In this decade, respected food critics have reversed the hype, citing a virtual renaissance in the London food scene — raving about the hot new London chefs, touting its incredibly diverse restaurants, in fact anointing London as the Crown Jewel of European cuisine… London, London, LONDON! !!

The real question is… what happens when you leave the city? Are you back in a world of sub par dining? Is the rest of the country still an abyss of mushy vegetables and lumps of gray indistinguishable meat?

Well the answer is a resounding NO! Today the English countryside offers some of the most consistently appetizing, delightfully satisfying FRESH fare a traveler could hope for. The vast majority of local pubs, inns and bed & breakfasts scattered across Britain boast menus of substantial variety and above-average quality.

But increasingly, fresh ingredients are a rarity in restaurant food, especially for us nomads on the road. Perhaps because Britain is an island, still largely agricultural outside of London proper, many products are locally grown. Whether or not that’s the reason, the fact is that the base ingredients used by English locals have a farmer’s market level of quality and no long-standing relationship with plastic containers, chemicals or freezers to interfere with natural taste. Fruits and greens are crisp and just picked from the garden, home baked breads and pastries are noticeably textured, fish tastes barely plucked from the sea, cheeses creamy, nutty or tangy, but bursting with flavor-the offerings vary, but the sum total of these parts is nothing short of sublime.

Although I’ve had occasion to visit the U.K. many times over the years, this past summer I traipsed across the island with a twenty-something city crowd visiting for the very first time. Our route initially curved south through the small villages of Sussex and Kent, amidst cascading bouquets of flowering vines, hollyhocks, 7-foot wide roads and ancient castles. Then on west to Cornwall with its uniquely quaint fishing villages dotting the shoreline and its famously breathtaking coastal scenery.

I finally got a taste of real Cornish flapjacks — yes, they’re different — soft, dense and chewy, these porridge oat bars were totally addictive and surprisingly decadent for just three ingredients: 6 oz. Demerarer sugar, 6 oz. soft tub margarine (or butter), melted together with just 8 oz. of oatmeal, topped with mini egg pieces, (!) then baked for 30 minutes.

Along the way we happily ate and drank to excess, routinely asking to partake of the warm and friendly specialties of the house. We sampled all the peasant staples: crispy fish ‘n chips, steak & mushroom and cheese & onion pies, dip-in egg cups, cock-a-leekie soup, Cornish pasties, bangers and mash, toad in the hole, shepherd’s pie, the ubiquitous ploughman’s lunch, fish cakes, bubble and squeak, Welsh rarebit, cheese straws, John Dory, and roast lamb with mint chutney, to name a few, followed by a never ending selection of desserts, such as shortbread, fruit trifle, spicy gingerbread, sticky toffee and bread & butter pudding, cream cakes, pies and custards galore. Of course most establishments offered many less traditional options as well, reflecting ethnic trends that are not restricted to the city.

And oh, the English beer… we mustn’t forget the libations! An incredible array of our favorite ale styles — mild, bitter, best bitter, porter, stout, barley wine — not to mention hard ciders, lagers and lime and shandies. All luscious and at the proper temperature, of course. We seriously almost lost some of our party permanently to the small village of in St Just, after sampling the finest, creamiest hand pumped Real Ale imaginable in the (only) local pub. I could retire here based on the beer alone, plus there were young folks inside as well.

But that was when, and this is now: Jonny McFadden, who runs the Star Inn in St Just, Cornwall, installed an electric fence in front of the pub’s bar for social distancing purposes. “We have had enough of people doing as they pleased and ignoring social-distancing guidelines,” said McFadden. “The fence had been placed there to, ahem, shock locals into behaving. To protect staff and myself and my customers you have to put in the meter [distancing] rule,” he said. Asked how customers reacted to the innovation, McFadden said, “It was quite comical. We’re in a rural area, so everybody knows what an electric fence is. I got a little sign too on it — ‘electric, danger.'”

Inevitably, in the course of our sampling, we made friends of all ages. A gentle couple in Lewes who found my oh-so-youthful companions most entertaining invited us into their home to share a traditional tea. They had a lovely manor estate complete with a croquet lawn, a wishing well and a glorious tended garden too pretty for words. The fellow next door owned homing pigeons and about 60 of them dotted his roof.

Once in Looe, we enjoyed an incredibly picturesque 180 degree view of the harbor from our bedroom window at the Deganwy Hotel perched on the hill overlooking the harbor, only a hundred yards or so walk from the station. Our luck held out even at the beach, which was sandy, sunlit and full of mostly British tourists. After sunning, we consumed a host of Cornish pasties, mostly sold as take-out. Each shop seemed to have their own slant on construction and fillings, offering us no choice but to sample them all. We ate potato and lamb and mushroom and onion and cheddar and beef and olive and chicken. A few were hefty with dough similar to a calzone; the majority were rich and flaky with a lot of shortening in the crust.

Looe itself proved to be a quaint, quiet fishing village with lovely pubs and lots of souvenir shops, bustling but not overrun with curious visitors. By far it’s best attribute, though, was its starting point for the 5-mile mostly cliff-side Looe to Polperro Walk, finishing at the next pretty fishing village up the coast. Full of incredible vistas, hauntingly beautiful rolling hills, a vivid assortment of flora and fauna and the constant sights, smells and sounds of the sea below you, it is an unforgettable sensory experience. While much of the hike was leisurely, some of the final uphill stretches were fairly aerobic, a good thing considering the delectable Cornish Clotted Ice Creams available in the teeny Talland bay shortly before its Polperro end. Without a doubt, this coastal walk was the stunning highlight of our trip.

Our hike ended on a winding street which brought us quietly down into the picturesque fishing village of Polperro. As in Looe, clusters of cottages perch on steep slopes overlooking the boats in the harbor. Narrow cobblestone streets abound in between tightly spaced homes, gurgling waterways and footbridges, garden window boxes and brightly colored flowers. The high street is tiny, so a bit crowded, but charming. Working our way slowly up the main street incline to the bus stop, we were stopped by some friendly ladies at a church yard sale. Comically, there we purchased all sorts of unique treasures, new and old, to bring back to the States… and a few homemade flapjacks for the ride home.

Getting There

If you haven’t yet toured the British countryside, here are my tips for sights and flavors you will want to sample along the way, and several ways to accomplish your travel.

TIP: Lunch is usually served from noon to 3 p.m.; the time of day to enjoy your large meal of the day throughout Britain. Prices are generally less, portions are generous — you will save a considerable amount of your travel budget by eating more at mid-day and enjoying a light meal, say soup and sandwich or salad for supper.

TIP: You can generally tell if you are drinking Real Ale if it is served using a hand pump.

TIP: Some B&Bs will help arrange for car and/or car and driver hire for day trips about the area. B&B owners are also a wealth of information on local sights, tours and best meal options. Through photos and email, you can oft-times narrow down your choices and book the best establishment for your needs well in advance. This gives you time to establish a relationship and along with it, maximum planning ability and control over your travel budget.

TIP: One aspect of traveling the British countryside that truly cannot be missed is the walking tour. Whether initially you get where you’re going by train, car or bus, the most wonderful way to truly capture the essence of England is on foot. There are a mind-boggling 630 miles of superb walks promising “the ever present sense of the sea” just on the southwest coast alone… and that comprises only one of fifteen National Trails in England and Wales.

Audrey’s Recipe for Cornish Pasties
(makes 3 large)

Processor Dough

• 2 cups flour
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1-tablespoon sugar
• 1 stick cold butter (or margarine or combination)
  cut up
• 1 egg, separated (yolk used in dough, white as glaze)
• 5 tablespoons ice water
• 1 Tablespoon milk (for wash)

Filling

• 2-3 medium potatoes, chopped in ½ inch cubes
  (about 2 ½ cups)
• 2-3 medium carrots, chopped in 3/8 inch pieces
  (about 1 ¾ cups)
• 1 med. large onion, diced ¼ inch (about 1 cup)
• 2 celery stalks, leaves okay, diced ¼ inch
  (about ½ cup)
• 1 pound ground beef or turkey (about 2 cups)
• 1-oz. packet beef au jus (or turkey) gravy mix or seasonings to taste
  (*plus additional packet for gravy)

Gravy

• Reserved vegetable water
• 1 Tablespoon flour or cornstarch (optional)
• 1 packet au jus (or turkey) gravy mix

For the dough: Put the first four ingredients in an attached food processor bowl and process with a steel blade until the consistency of coarse meal (no big lumps). Add the egg yolk, and while the processor is running, add your ice water one tablespoon at a time, stopping as soon as the dough begins to clump. Process only until it forms a loose ball. Divide the dough into three pieces. Gently form each piece into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature. If the kitchen is too hot, put the dough in the refrigerator while you make the filling.

For the filling: Wash and scrub vegetables; there’s no need to peel. Place the cut up vegetables in a roomy pot. Add only enough water to cover and boil gently about four minutes until partially cooked. Reserve (drain and save) the boiled vegetable water for the gravy, increasing both the flavor and vitamin content of your meal. Next, saute the ground beef or turkey until cooked through. Don’t indiscriminately discard juices, but do skim any excessive grease if using a high fat ground. Add to the meat one package of gravy mix (I prefer au jus even with ground turkey) or season to taste with up to one teaspoon bouillon and a sprinkling of onion and garlic powder. Add the vegetables and briefly mix together; set aside.

Constructing the pasties: Lightly flour a flexible plastic mat or cutting board and roll out one dough ball into a round-ended oval measuring approximately 10 x 7 inches and about 1/8 inch thick. Carefully transfer the dough to an outside corner edge of a large baking tray, letting one long half of your oval dough hang over the side (see photo). You will not be able to move the pasty once filling is added. Mound a generous, tall amount of filling on the supported half of the dough, leaving a ¾ inch margin around the edge. Then fold over the other half on top to resemble a filled-in letter “D”. Press the edges together, then fold the outer edge in on top of itself again and press to seal shut. Repeat with remaining dough balls. If any holes or tears result, just press the dough together to repair. Make a 1-inch slit in the top of each pasty for steam to escape. Moisten the top of each pasty with a little milk before placing in the oven, and brush with beaten egg white about 10 minutes before done. This will keep your pasty crust soft and add a lovely glazed patina. Bake at 375 degrees a total of 25 – 30 minutes.

Gravy: Use the reserved vegetable water as the liquid called for in your gravy mix. Au jus style can be thickened slightly by adding a little flour or cornstarch to the dry mix and making a smooth paste before gradually adding the vegetable water. Stir or whisk frequently while cooking to prevent sticking.

TIPS:

• Any favorite pie crust recipe can be substituted for the pasty dough. Even (horrors!) store-bought pre-made pie crust works fine. Either way, the milk and egg wash steps will enhance your results.
• Kids love a happy face or other fun design on top of their pasty. For finicky children, cook the potatoes, carrots, onion and celery six minutes and smash together to achieve a more uniform texture (i.e., hide the veggies).
• If you want to make little pasties instead of larger ones, you will need almost twice the amount of dough (up to 2 recipes, see below) for the same amount of filling. Baking time may need to be reduced to as little as 20 minutes.
• Anytime you are doubling or otherwise increasing the dough recipe for the pasty crust, make sure to process only one 2-cup recipe at a time for optimum results. Larger quantities will not process as quickly or uniformly and your crust may end up tough and overworked.
• Pasties freeze well and reheat without major repercussions in the microwave.

There are no rules as to quantities or proportions with pasties. You can put in them what you like and have on hand, change the ratio of meat to veggies, etc.; do what you will. Any leftover meat or poultry, as long as it is not too dry, makes a fabulous pasty.

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Are several lumps of sugar worth putting in an historic museum? That may sound like a funny question, but the fact is that yes they are – especially if they’re part of the Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms (CWR) in London.

Located a short walk from Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, the CWR opened in 1984 and is, at least in my view, one of the most intriguing museums in London. Although the city is full of captivating museums to suit almost every taste in things to see and do, the CWR should be a “must see” for everyone visiting London. Seeing it up close and personal makes you feel as if you’re actually there in those dark days of 1940 when Hitler’s troops were expected to invade Great Britain tomorrow. Every room in this magnificent museum has been restored to the way it was when World War Two ended in May, 1945.

One of the most important areas of the Cabinet War Rooms is the Map Room and, when you first see it you’re struck, as I was, by the profusion of white, red and green telephones – they’re every where. The desk of the most important man in the room – the Chief Map Room Officer – is strategically located in the center of the display, and it turns out he had a very sweet tooth. Maybe it was because sugar was in such short supply back then, but for some unknown reason he saved all his sugar lumps in an envelope – which he placed in his top desk drawer. During the restoration in 1980, when it was decided to make everything look the way it was during World War Two, one of the restorers opened all the drawers of this desk and, lo and behold, found these still perfect lumps of sugar! Wow!!! And yes, they too have been saved in this intriguing museum, at least they were when I visited a few years ago.

Because the CWR was the nerve center of Churchill’s strategy in the planning of Britain’s wartime efforts in those days, the museum’s location is also “somewhat secret.” Their exact address is Clive Steps, King Charles Street, London, SW1A, but it’s very easy to miss because it’s almost hidden from view off the Horse Guards Road. Unless you knew it was there, you could easily miss it altogether. It’s online at the Imperial War Museum site and then scroll down the page and click on “Cabinet War Rooms & Churchill Museum Home.” For more information on Great Britain in general, let me suggest you go to the Visit Britain site – If London is in your travel plans, I hope you’ll find time to visit this unique, one-of-a-kind museum. I know you’ll find it fascinating.

A final question. When they found those lumps of sugar in the restoration process, and as they wanted EVERYTHING to be “as it was in WW2” do you think they left those EXACT lumps, or did they insert new ones – and possibly change them periodically due to dust and such?

The post 2 Lumps of Sugar Make This Churchill Museum Totally Unique appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The sounds of the city entering through the swinging door of the celebrated Ritz London late at night are strangely subdued, muffled under moisture-laden clouds hovering over a slumbering Piccadilly. This elaborate palace with its imposing pink-hued marble pillars standing tall, crystal chandeliers sparkling overhead, and floor-to-ceiling mirrors holding secrets of clandestine love affairs long forgotten, is the perfect finale to a dream-filled London evening. The ageless mirrors once reflecting the Ritz’s opening day more than a hundred years ago in May of 1906 when horses and buggies lurched through the streets amidst the electrifying clatter of London life.

The peaceful silence of this London night provides the perfect opportunity to experience the potent elegance and creativity expressed in the slumbering hotel through the art of interior creativity. Special design touches catch the eye, flashing like diamonds, catching guests’ imagination and bringing to mind the radiance of the people who created this historic setting. Guests here are rarely surprised to learn that the Long Gallery on the ground floor has been described as one of the all-time masterpieces of hotel architecture. The brainchild of Cesar Ritz, a skillful and gifted Swiss gentleman with forward-thinking ideas, the hotel was brought to life by two talented architects, one British and one French, who were influenced by the Louis Seize-style architectural traditions of Paris. The pure classical forms common in the architectural design and furniture of the reign of Louis XVI of France are carried throughout the hotel’s decor.

On this contemplative night, the hotel seems to be taking a deep breath to settle itself while guests in 136 elaborate rooms and suites are resting. The city is subdued as the clouds decide to open and let fall a gentle but steady rain. The Ritz has hosted the elite of the world — kings and queens, writers, actors, wounded soldiers, celebrities from prima ballerina Anna Pavlova to Charlie Chaplin, and bartenders who knew them all.

During World War II, Winston Churchill, Dwight Eisenhower, and Charles de Gaulle met in the Marie Antoinette Suite to discuss tactics, hopefully over champagne. Damaged nine times during German bombing raids, like fervent London sentinels, the Ritz’s original 1906 Portland stone and gray Norwegian granite held firm.

The hotel, caught in a historic British time bubble and still showcasing the modern edge of the 20^th century, was recently listed among the world’s top five hotels; not a big surprise to hotel aficionados. Inside, the gorgeous Palm Court feels almost spiritually imbued with good thoughts, an impression heightened by the absolutely brilliant use of light and space. Its splendor was intended as the ideal fashion-forward setting for some of the world’s most stunning women, all adhering to the classic Ritz dress code as they took pleasure in afternoon tea and carefully prepared cuisine with live background music.

Palm Court Afternoon Tea

For more than a hundred years, the Palm Court has been a gracious host and the only hotel in the UK to have a certified Tea Sommelier who offers 18 different types of loose-leaf tea, including a unique house tea developed specially for the Palm Court. With a bit of imagination it’s easy to imagine Princess Diana, Sophia Loren, Jackie Onassis, and Audrey Hepburn, sipping champagne or tea and wondering who may have been enjoying the Palm Court earlier today.

At 2:30 a.m. while the rain continues in a misty haze, the Ritz kitchen is filled with the tantalizing aroma of freshly baked bread, croissants, and rolls fashioned by the baker who works throughout the night to gratify Executive Chef, John Williams. The Chef, personable, articulate, and honored with a Michelin Star, is distinguished among the top chefs in both Great Britain and Europe. With a team of 65 cooks and sous-chefs, Chef Williams oversees the Ritz dining scene. Enthusiastic, passionate, and vigorous, he creates the menus for The Palm Court, Ritz Restaurant, Secret Garden, Rivoli Bar, Room Service, banqueting and private dining rooms — an astonishing and artful task.

Admired by the Royal family, Chef Williams has cooked and catered for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, celebrating two of her birthdays at private dinners for the Royal family, both at The Ritz and at Buckingham Palace.

Williams was born and raised in South Shields in northern England, the son of a Tyneside fisherman, one of six children, from humble beginnings and a hard-working family. His mother set the pace for her young son. He explained that she was a simple, practical cook, who fed the family well with lots of different fish and allowed him to help in the kitchen. Williams attended college and cookery classes working his way through the kitchens of England, tutored by French chefs, before finally landing at the Ritz as an Executive Chef in 2004.

Following in the footsteps of Auguste Escoffiere, the father of modern cooking who was chef at the Ritz during the first years of its opening, Williams says that he prefers modern cuisine and loves to stretch the boundaries, but regardless everything must fit under the roof of the Ritz. “We strive to make it relevant, aim for the stars, and create flavor that gives people joy.”

It’s 3:45 a.m. and the Ritz’s wine cellar of some 500 bins of goodness is locked tight. There is nothing to do now but count the hours till lunch when it will be time to enjoy Chef Williams’ creations. The list embraces Langoustine a la nage, Cherry Bomb Chicken, Drunken Mussels or Eggplant Parmesan Casserole, and a sip of Bordeaux wine.

Before heading for the lift and a bedroom on the second floor, a man, hatless, dripping wet in a brown suit, strides in carrying a thin brief case with a cell phone attached to his ear. He pauses by the grand piano which is played to accompany the Afternoon Tea sitting. He bends over and plays a few bluesy chords, and then continues up the famed staircase, a design urged by Cesar Ritz who believed that a curved staircase allowed ladies to make a dramatic entrance and showcase their fashion. Halfway up, he stops, removes the cell phone from his ear, turns to view the Long Gallery and the Louis XVI setting for a long moment, and with an immense smile nods goodnight. It’s that kind of place.

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With the recently celebrated 75th Anniversary of VE Day, commemorating the end of World War II in Europe, A Royal Night Out, currently streaming on Netflix,  couldn’t have been re-released at a more appropriate time.  This delightful film, written by Trevor De Silva and Kevin Hood, and exquisitely directed by UK director Julian Jarroid (Brideshead Revisited,) was originally released by Lionsgate on May 8, 2015.  This glorious film tells the story of how Princesses Elizabeth (Sarah Gadon) and Margaret Rose (Bel Powley) supposedly celebrated that historical moment.

Raucous celebrations are breaking out all over London and future queen Elizabeth, whose nickname is “Lilibeth,” and her younger sister by four years Margaret, who refers to herself as “P2,” (princess 2) desperately want to join in the historic celebrations.  They beg and plead with their parents – George VI (Rupert Everett) and their mother Queen Elizabeth (Emily Watson) – to allow them to participate in the festivities.  They want to see first hand how everyone is celebrating.  The sisters have lived a very sheltered life and have never even been abroad, which is worrisome to their parents.

At first their parents are unbending, as they are fearful for their daughter’s safety, but finally relent with specific rules.  They must be incognito and be chaperoned by two soldiers, Lieutenants Pryce and Burridge, delightfully played by Jack Lasky and Jack Gordon. Caught up in the excitement, in short order they are literally seduced by two young ladies of the night and lose track of their charges.  There is a delightful scene of them drinking what they believe will be their last drink before being court-martialed.

Margaret, the wilder of the two sisters, gets separated from Lilibeth in the hundreds of people milling about in the streets and fearlessly sets off on her own to have the time of her life.  Aware that they are to make an appearance at several parties, the future queen hops on a bus but when the conductor asks her for money, she looks at him and says, “Oh dear, I don’t have any money.”  The conductor, not recognizing her, insists that she either “Pay or get off the bus.” Sitting next to her is handsome Jack, a seemingly disgruntled member of the RAF, who reaches into his pocket and pays her fare.  Well played by Jack Reynor, whose character has gone AWOL, resumes leaning against the window with his eyes closed but Elizabeth, absolutely perfectly played by Sarah Gadon, insists in engaging him in conversation.  She tells him about her search for her sister and eventually, fixing her broken heel, agrees to help her.  In the meantime, pandemonium continues to break out as midnight approaches, the official end of the war in Europe.

People are dancing in the streets, kissing each other, drinking champagne right out of the bottle, waving flags, singing, and dancing. After suffering through the Blitz, Londoners are truly ready to celebrate this momentous occasion. P2 somehow winds up at a “knocking shop” in Soho where a naughty Lord Stan spikes her drink with thoughts of seducing her. Experiencing dizziness, she wanders around until she comes to an office with a couch and is rescued by the proprietor of this “house of pleasure” who recognizes who she is.  Bel Powley captures the absolute joy and innocence of Margaret’s zest for life.

To continue this evening of extraordinary fun, she and some of the “working girls”  travel together to a party near Trafalgar Square, which is precisely where  Elizabeth and Jack are headed. As you might have deduced by now, the girls find with each other and jitterbug the rest of the night away.  At one point, a scrap breaks out between Jack and another soldier.  Seeing him getting the worst of it, Elizabeth assumes command of the situation by announcing who she is and for a few delicious moments, quiet fills the room as everyone curtsies and the fighting ceases.

Past the curfew, Margaret goes back to Buckingham Palace by taxi but Elizabeth says she will meet her back at the palace later on.  She, already somewhat smitten with Jack, as he is with her, decides to walk back with him and much to the chagrin of her parents, invites him to breakfast with them the next morning.  They question him about his service where he reveals that he flew 50 missions over Germany, shooting down five planes and witnessing the slow death of one of his friends who was mortally wounded. Spoiler alert:  The final scene is beyond precious.

Technically, this film is sheer perfection from Claire Anderson’s exquisite period costumes and Christophe Beaucarne’s beguiling cinematography, to Luke Dunkley’s Film Editing and Paul Englishby’s Musical Score, which includes some of the wartime hits such as “Don’t Sit Under The Appletree” and “In The Mood.”

Whether this story is totally true or cobbled together from heresay, this is one spirited, joyful film depicting how two famous princesses joined with the people for the first time in what was probably one of the most memorable moments of their lives.  In this difficult time, anything that is uplifting and makes us smile, is a temporary antidote to the isolation many of us are facing.  So, for a few hours of fun, I heartily recommend “A Royal Night Out.”

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So, how are YOU doing as you read this article, probably “imprisoned” in your home because of the Covid 19 medical disaster? Turns out that more and more people are reading books, for gosh sakes, to pass away the seemingly no-end-in-sight Covid 19 saga. Reading a good book is so much more rewarding than watching an aspect of social media, or video game adventure.

I’m a confirmed Bibliophile — who reads about 57 or more books every year. Always have, always will. Let me give you two intriguing books to consider. One this month and, in May, a truly remarkable tome about Field Marshall Rommel, and why you should consider buying both the Churchill and Rommel books.

First up, a book about Winston Churchill and WW2 called THE SPLENDID and the VILE by Erik Larson. Coming in at nearly 600 pages it’s a MUST READ. You might wonder, as I did, how anyone, anywhere, could still come up with newsy, interesting, and compelling facts in the early 1940s, about this sixtyish, robust, cigar chomping thoroughly British icon that saved Britain in WW2. Literally hundreds of books have been penned, typed, and computerized about him, so why buy any new one?

Simply because THE SPLENDID and the VILE by Erik Larson illustrates, in an exceptional and distinctive way, the exhilarating saga of British courage against all odds; and Churchill’s magnetic personality that endeared him to the crowds wherever he went — so much so (and I recall this personally as a boy growing up in London) people saying “Good old Winnie will fix it.” As such, this book was almost impossible to put down. It is written as if you are there with him, right by his side (with your still not invented) tape recorder, as you become mesmerized by his ideas that poured out in a sort of “Why didn’t  I think of that?” feeling. Winston Churchill, as he comes across in this stimulating and captivating book, is truly the epitome of the word UNIQUE.

One of his closest confidants was the colorful, deeply loyal individual John Colville. He was Churchill’s private secretary during the most critical, scary and in a time of “near-to-an-actual-invasion-by-the-Germans” Britain ever came. Colville wanted, desperately, to sign up and join the RAF, but Winston kept refusing.  Another man who constantly resigned — or attempted to — but was equally constantly refused by Churchill, as this book so cleverly details, was the Canadian businessman Max Aitken, more commonly known as Lord Beaverbrook, who was placed in total charge of mandating that more Hurricane and Spitfire fighters for the RAF would be, indeed MUST be, built faster than anyone thought possible.

Churchill consistently refused Beaverbrook’s increasingly impassioned requests to depart the government and, in the end, he did resign — but he missed, dreadfully — his previous regular back and forth with Churchill. The book also shows — more so than any book I’ve read on this subject — how Churchill taught the British public to be totally fearless.

The book is additionally spellbinding, as author Larson was able to secure access to German/Nazi information about WW2 secret Nazi facts — never before available — from German libraries, secret archives, and government resources regarding WW2 from the German/Nazi point of view. There is also an underlying theme to the entire book that I found mesmerizing: It was Churchill’s overriding mission, his main objective, his passion, to somehow find a way to get America — and its vast resources — actively into the war — for Churchill knew that Britain could not do it by itself. Here is a book you need read.

Contact John:

jd******@gm***.com

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Brits call them Narrowboats, as it IS one word, and depending on their size and length, they can hold from 2 to 10 people.  Research indicates there are over 38,000 Narrowboats in the UK, and they’re a wonderful leisurely way to see the 3,000 (yes, THREE THOUSAND!) miles of handsomely historic waterways that, Britain being Britain, envelops you in over 200 years of (mostly!) fascinating local and national history. To slightly alter a well-known cliché, the sights are a joy for fresh eyes!

Although a large percentage of Narrowboats are permanent homes for many people, there are still lots of places they can be rented, hired, or enjoyed as a special trip. Prices and itineraries online: Type in “Narrowboats in England.” Maximum length is 72 feet (2.13m) and to see WHY they’re called NARROWboats, go online and check out the multitude of nifty photos.

My first sighting of these gaily colored boats was on a trip to Great Britain. I was having  “A Ploughman’s Lunch” (usually bread, cheese, and fresh, absolutely deeeeeelicious (!) ham, green salad, hard boiled eggs and an apple …. Plus a superb only in the UK pickled onion… aaaah, I can taste and sense the mouthwatering aroma right now), and it was in one of those classic riverside pubs.

Off to my left there was a long, narrow (!) bridge that spanned a gorgeous, lushly green valley below. What totally stunned me, and made me wonder if what I saw was REAL or a dream, was that the bridge was not (as I expected) for a roadway or railway, but a water canal! Adding to my joy and “visual senses,” was that coming towards us on the bridge waterway, was a slim, trim highly imaginative, full of character, multicolored Narrowboat.

I’ve always loved “chatting up the locals” wherever I go, and near my lunch table was a middle aged couple who looked as if they’d stepped out of a British Tourist office poster advertising Britain and her people. The woman smiled at me, noticing the obvious surprise of seeing what was now very near to us. “Yes,” she said in a marvelous – but a somewhat hard to understand local brogue, “they ARE lovely aren’t they… you can rent them, and some offer you the chance to step off the Narrowboat and stay overnight in one of the many waterside cottages.”

To get an even better “feel” for  Narrowboats, check out the Huddersfield Narrow Canal. At 3 miles in length, it is the deepest canal in Britain, and took 16 years to build and, as you’ll see, has some absolutely exquisite local scenery along the canal route.

Talking with some Narrowboat owners, I was intrigued to hear that another joy of Narrowboating, is the number of Locks you’ll go up or down through. The UK has 1,569 locks and 53 tunnels that some canals go through, plus 3,112 canal carrying bridges, and even 370 water canal aqueducts.

For photo buffs, I urge you to check out – and for sure photograph – the BINGLEY FIVE RISE LOCKS on the Leeds and Liverpool Canal at Bingley. If shot with a wide angle lens, it looks as if the five lock gates are part of some Steeple Chase canal adventure. It’s too confusing to describe how they function, as you’ll get a much better idea of WHY they’re so intriguing, by a personal visit. I’d heartily recommend you go in the summer months.

Don’t be narrow minded: experience a trip in a Narrowboat in the UK. Contact JOHN:

jd******@gm***.com

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If you’re a train aficionado and Great Britain is in your travel plans, the 320 page “Britain from the Rails” by Benedict Le Vay needs to be in your possession. Not only does it give you a “from your seat” description of some of the most remarkable rail trips in the UK, but it also provides unusual anecdotes and diverse facts, news and information about the history of British railways, such as: The extraordinary saga of the Flying Scotsman & The Flying Scotsman; Hell & Horror in the High Hills; The Highland Main line – a Summit Special in Railway Building; The Barry Scrapyard (where most of England’s steam engines ended up to “rust away,” but were saved by devoted preservationists) and an intriguing section on “Britain’s Best Kept Secret Railways.”

I loved the Train Trivia section and the pages devoted to such topics as Speed Limits, Clocks, Whistle Boards, and Patterns Repeating Canals and Roads. The British call them “Points” and in the good old USA they’re known as “Switches,” and you’ll find other British and American railroad terminology explained in these pages, some of which may surprise you. Here’s a riveting railway book you should gift someone with, plus buying it for yourself.

The 210 page “Lost Railway Journeys from around the world” by Anthony Lambert is a captivating book about fabulous gone forever railways in Europe, Asia, Australasia, The Americas and Africa. When you see how spectacular some of these railroads were, it makes you want to cry and ask WHY did “Officialdom” put an “Out-of-Business” mark on all of them? As an ex-Brit I was mesmerized by the story about the British “Somerset & Dorset Railway” that shut down in 1966. Because of its stunningly scenic route, photographers flocked to the line not only to capture on film some of England’s finest countryside, but also to have photos of the line’s classically magnificent steam engines.

Like so many of the unforgettable routes and locomotives lovingly described in this book, many tracks on which they traveled and mesmerized thousands, are now nothing more than bicycle routes or hiking trails. Railroad buffs will love – as I did – the many stunning photos, several in color, of those one-of-a-kind steam engines from around the world.

As a kid growing up in London, America was personified for me by, among other things, the blue and white colors of the US airline Pan American. Every time in the 1940s when I saw one of their propeller driven Douglas DC 4 and DC 7 airplanes, and of course the majestic Boeing Stratocruiser aircraft, it made me long, even more, to live and work in the USA. So it was a “No Brainer” for me to buy the superb, 208 page, coffee table sized book “Pan-Am – An Aviation Legend” by Barnaby Conrad the 3^rd.

Although quite a few books have been written about this iconic US airline, none have – in my view – captured the magic, elegance and an only one of its kind sentiment and yes, the atmosphere of Pan-Am, that this book does. Centering mostly on its ambitious, focused and forward thinking founder and driving force, Juan Trippe, this book clearly – and vividly – shows why, after Trippe’s passing in 1981 at 82, Pan-Am faltered and failed, sadly collapsing completely on December 4^th, 1991.

Filled with B&W and vibrantly evocative, even “thoughtful” color pictures, as well as some early history look sepia photos that are “magical memories” for any aviation buff or Pan-Am devotee, this is a true treasure trove of airline reminiscences. They range from the marvelous days of the unique Clipper Flying Boats to the “Plain Jane” (or should that be PLANE Jane?) looks of today’s aircraft, which makes this a must buy book. The powerful prose is uncommon and unusual in its brilliance, and gives you a personal involvement of “I wish I could have saved Pan-Am.”

For anyone considering, or taking, a RIVER cruise in Europe, get THIS book — even if you’ve previously  enjoyed many cruises on the scenic rivers of Europe. The 255 page “River Cruising in Europe” by ace cruise expert Douglas Ward, is a goldmine of news, facts and information that I’ll bet many are not aware of, as it gives you an insider’s look at river cruising in that part of the world.  It’s so well written, and there is so much data, statistics, news and knowledge here, it makes you want to go online and make a reservation right now. The photography is also stunning with most of the images in full color that likewise give you that “urge to splurge” on a river cruise in Europe. Check out the reviews of all MAJOR river cruise lines; what to see & do on river cruises, plus over 280 river ships rated, and you’ll know why it’s worth getting. I’ve found it VERY helpful in making my river cruises even more spectacular.

To contact John, email him at

jd******@gm***.com

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If I told you one of the most romantic ways to get to one of Britain’s most spectacular resorts is by cruise ship, you might think I’d gone — as the British might say — a little batty. Then again consider it serves up a typically Upper Crust, very High Society drink called Pimms Number One. Believe me, it’s the most refreshing drink this side of London. Suppose on top of all this, I said the best local sightseeing is a forest with over 3,000 cuddly, charming and loveable ponies? Of all the luxurious places in which I’ve stayed around the world, Chewton Glen ranks among the very best. While the name Chewton Glen possibly sounds Scottish, it is uniquely British, croquet and all! This gorgeous, romantic and one of a kind hotel, spa and country club is located 90 minutes South of London’s Heathrow airport, in the county of Hampshire, and just 35 minutes from the historic port of Southampton, home of British liners the Queen Mary 2 and the Queen Victoria.

Traveling the world as much as I have, it’s a challenge to pinpoint one destination as being better than any other. Yet after I’d spent two nights at Chewton Glen, I knew it is Nirvana. This quintessential 5 star resort is the type of destination you’re convinced exists only in your imagination. Set on the edge of the 145 square mile New Forest, home of the above ponies, Chewton provides guests total comfort and luxury. Then again if you want river fishing as fishing should be, how about doing it in Timsbury on the River Test? As I quickly found out after I’d arrived at Chewton Glen, staying there is the epitome of what a much slower, much more relaxed lifestyle is all about.

Climb aboard a tour bus organized by Chewton Glen’s concierge, for a fascinating tour of the New Forest, and if you’re a WW2 buff you’ll probably be surprised to see a very old US Air Force runway from WW2 — decaying and crumbling in places, but still a reminder of where US fighters and bombers took off on their bombing missions over Europe. I found the word “New” somewhat disingenuous, because the New Forest was created by none other than William the Conqueror back in the year 1079! Take the tour, as it’s like taking a trip back in time, with a landscape mostly unchanged since medieval times.

There are almost countless options regarding the time honored question of “What are we going to do today? Consider; Golf on Chewton’s 9 hole course; having real fun playing the very British game of croquet on their British Home and Gardens’ type lawn; relishing the tasteful delights of a scrumptious afternoon tea on the patio; or finding complete relaxation in their Hydrotherapy Pool, Chewton Glen is totally captivating.

Leading travel publications constantly vote it as the best hotel in the British Isles, and every one of its 72 charming bedrooms are so comfortable you’ll probably want to spend more time there than you imagined. Especially as most accommodations have their own terrace, balcony or, now get this, private garden. If, among the fragrant aromas that waft around this 130 acre property from the profusion of multi colored flowers, you also notice a whiff of fresh sea breezes, you’d be correct. Taking a wonderful trail called “The Chewton Bunny” it’s only a 20 minute walk to the English Channel!

Whether it’s the heated towel rack in your mini suite, the fluffy towels that envelop you after your shower or bath, or soaking up the ambience in one of the resort’s lounges (that made me feel I was in the home of some English Lord or Lady) Chewton Glen should be on your list of places to enjoy in Great Britain.

While you’re there be sure you ask for a Pimms Number One Cup. This drink is as British as a cup of tea, and harkens back to a London Oyster Bar in 1840. The owner, James Pimm, wanted a drink that was a real thirst quencher, and created a mixture of gin, quince, and a secret mixture of herbs. It became an instant hit. The Pimms No 1 Cup served by Chewton Glen is the best ever, and uses the following for each Pimms served — a slice of orange, lemon, apple and — now get this — cucumber and one sprig of mint — then add two parts lemonade to one part Pimms. And hey Presto you’ve got the best Pimms in all of the United Kingdom.

Many websites are often difficult to navigate, but when you go to the Chewton Glen website  you’ll be captivated by its harmonious simplicity, and the wealth of worthwhile and intriguing information.

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