By Ruth J. Katz

Photos provided by Regent Seven Seas Cruises

It’s hard to imagine that there is feverish activity below decks, while you are more or less inert, above deck, sunning languorously poolside, with a frothy, umbrella-adorned beverage in hand. Such is “the life” on deck 11, on an at-sea day on Regent Seven Seas Cruise Line’s stunningly appointed Explorer, with its exquisite décor—punctuated by its extensive, on-board art collection, valued at some $6 million. 

But, on levels one, two, and three, there is unremitting bustle, a floating beehive in perpetual motion.  Your seamless and cosseted experience is possible only because this well-oiled hospitality locomotive—comprised of both “machinery” that boasts DNA as well as inanimate machinery—is constantly rechoreographing its balletic acrobatics, reacting to guests’ needs and assuring their comfort and well-being. 

Your experience is not about the state-of-the art sundry engines and sophisticated equipment that chug along without your being aware of them and which contribute to your seamless journey.  But, more importantly, it’s about the 2,200-odd legs and arms that belong to a crew of more than 550, a cohesive corps who inherently want to spoil you and the other 745 passengers on board.

Among the upmarket cruise lines, Regent stands arguably alone when it comes to truly embodying the meaning of that “all inclusive” sales message: No tipping; no add-ons for alcohol (save, for example, for a Connoisseur Cognac Tasting); no fees for the more than 2,000 diverse shore excursions, in over 500 ports of call.  (NB:  There are some tariffs for a handful of over-the-top adventures.)

Always on the qui vive for enriching and previously-uncharted experiences for its customers (many of whom are brand-loyal to the core), Regent staff and its boots-on-the ground excursion partners plumb their imaginations and local geography and history to dazzle you with alluring excursion programs.  Recently added to the mix are Behind the Design Tours and Eco-Connect Tours, all touching on popular themes.

In keeping with the mantra that pampering knows no bounds for Regent guests (clients fly Business Class to and from their ships, on intercontinental flights from the U.S. and Canada), the 4,443-square-foot Regent Suite on the Explorer—the ne plus ultra cabin—is outfitted with a $150,000 Savoir No. 1 bed, which takes 120 man hours to hand-build, and which sports a mattress-topper lavishly layered with horse-tail hair, lambswool, pure cashmere, and even Mongolian yak hair. The company refers to its Regent Suites (one per vessel) as the most exclusive addresses at sea.

But even if you are not in a Penthouse Suite, outfitted with a pillow menu (gel, memory foam, down, buckwheat-hull—you get the idea), you will find luxury and service above your wildest expectations.

And while you slumber in comfort, that city that never sleeps below you is humming 24 hours a day: The engines, the mechanical systems, a desalinization plant, the laundry and dry cleaning plants, staff quarters, food and alcohol stores, butcher shops, galleys, room service staff, and crew-training facilities, are all purring efficiently, keeping everything ship-shape, just for you.

It is here in the wee hours of the morn that a half-dozen or so pastry chefs are knocking out thousands of rolls, croissants, brioches, muffins, donuts, Danishes, and even gluten-free breads for breakfast alone, while the crew in the laundry are washing and pressing thousands of napkins and tablecloths daily.  And the housekeeping staff are loading their carts with thousands of freshly laundered towels and getting ready to pounce like Ninjas to clean your suite after you have left for an excursion, and, of course, to replenish Nespresso pods and the L’Occitane Mer & Mistral line of toiletries in your marble-clad bath.

Multiple traffic cops and computer systems are in place to keep this human “appliance” waltzing smoothly, so that the many galleys are never bereft of, say, soy milk. During a typical seven-day cruise, more than 500 gallons of milk alone are consumed. In fact, on a galley tour, if you snoop around the refrigeration units, you’ll see they are filled with regular milk, heavy cream, half-and-half, 1% and 2% skimmed milk, regular skimmed milk, as well as almond and rice milks—maybe even a cow secreted away in the fridge.  On a typical seven-day cruise, the 82 galley chefs might blitz through 900 dozen eggs, 800 pounds of butter, 600 pounds of lobster, 700 pounds of cheese…and guests will consume 4,800 bottles of wine and nearly 1,000 bottles of Champagne!

Another fascinating aspect of the galley—and throughout the ship, in fact–is the separation of trash. Mindful of global ecology, Regent is striving to cease supplying guests with single-use plastics and in an effort to cut down on paper waste, the company has shifted paperwork to digital formats. In the galley, trash is scrupulously segregated:  Pulpable waste, shells and bones, plastic, cans, paper, non-pulpables, and so on, all have their own receptacles. And don’t think for a minute that the refuse you drop into your cabin garbage bin isn’t sorted.  Batteries, razor blades, plastics, are all separated.

But all these numbers and policies mean nothing, unless the services behind those facts and figures are delivered with a smile and style.  And, that they are. Regent is holistic in its approach to training staff and maintains a school in the Philippines, as well as a teaching facility on board. What is most important to the company, however, is to hire people who comprehend that they are the public ambassadors of the brand and its philosophy. Regent is committed to its mantra of serving guests with the utmost care, always remembering that they are the face of the company, and that the attention they give to details—anticipating and exceeding guests’ expectations—is Regent’s “normal.”  The crew, from nearly 50 countries—be it Kyrgyzstan or Mauritius—must love their jobs, as they repeatedly return to work on a Regent vessel.  Many have worked for the company a very long time, including Theodora, an employee in Prime 7 (the on-board steak house), who has been a Regent employee for more than 25 years.

You may well find that after your first Regent journey, you become just as regular a Regent devotee as its longtime employees and other guests. Bon voyage!

Regent’s six ocean-going vessels sail all year long, to seven continents, to more than 100   countries and 350 ports of call; more than 2,000 complimentary excursions are offered.  Average pricing for most Regent cruises starts at approximately $3,999 per person.

Additional Info: rssc.com

What Else is Cooking?

In between lazing about, eating, attending enrichment lectures, and heading shoreside for excursions, you will definitely want to save two hours for at least one of Explorer‘s Culinary Arts classes—assuming you can snag a place for these waiting-list-is-the-norm cooking classes. These hands-on, instruction-filled lessons were designed to enhance guests’ appreciation and understanding of a local port’s culture, history, and, of course, singular culinary profile. Taught in a state-of-the-art kitchen-classroom (deck 11, starboard, with sweeping, floor-to-ceiling window views), each student’s station is equipped with an induction cook stove, stainless steel sink, and quartzite work counter.  The program was designed by executive chef Kathryn Kelly, a graduate of and former instructor at the Culinary Institute of America. She first joined sister cruise line Oceania in 2011, when that company launched a highly successful seafaring cooking school on its Marina vessel. Regent’s classes include basics for those interested in things like knife skills, but the program excels at truly innovative, interesting classes, focused on ports of call…such as Epicurean Safari, which highlights delicious cuisine from Morocco, South Africa, and Namibia.  — RJK

© 2024 Ruth J. Katz   All Rights Reserved

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Stopping for lunch, I ordered a glass of the house wine. A bottle arrived at the table. When I protested, I was told to drink what I wanted and I would be charged accordingly. Not a bad system, I thought.

Later, sipping more wine – this is Italy, after all — on our apartment balcony overlooking the vineyards from whose grapes it was made, we debated whether to eat in or go out for another Florentine steak. The fact that our apartment was housed in a structure dating back to the 13th century on a farm boasting one of the best-known vineyards in Italy was a bonus.

Vineyard photograph courtesy of Victor Block.

Welcome to UNTOURS, a wonderful well-kept secret that may change your concept of travel forever. Idyll, Ltd.’s UNTOURS program offers tourists a unique opportunity to not be tourists. It flies participants to one or more cities in more than a dozen European countries, inundates them with information and puts them up in apartments for two-to-four or more weeks to live like the locals. A much safer option during the pandemic than staying at a hotel.

It’s a way to get to know a destination in a manner that would never happen on a conventional tour. And again — a safer one. It’s ideal for those who have the time and interest to explore their surroundings at leisure and in depth. And they provide the wherewithal to do it: rental cars or bus and rail passes are part of the package.

Those who joined my husband, Victor, and me on the pre-pandemic Southern Tuscany adventure were intrepid travelers who wanted to focus on the destination, not the details. Cathy Gerdes, a veteran Untourist from Durham, NC explained: “We love the philosophy of Untours. They help you make all the arrangements, give you the inside scoop on what to do, and then leave you on your own to explore and discover.” We were learning about our neighborhood, but on our terms. Rise early or sleep in. Sightsee or stroll around town. Cook in or eat out. And whatever the choice, we returned to our apartment, a much roomier and warmer ambiance than any hotel would provide, and one which has been treated according to strict Covid protocols.

The town of steps, turns and back alleys that initially seemed daunting to navigate soon became negotiable. We mastered shortcuts to the center of town; got to know local vendors, and began to feel secure enough to risk getting lost on purpose. The sense of pride I felt when giving some harried American tourists directions was bordering on smug.

Street photograph courtesy of Victor Block.

Each day brought a new adventure, often beginning with a visit to any one of several nearby “hill towns,” which indeed come by their name honestly. One day, it was the Renaissance city of Pienza, known for its harmony of ambience and structure, a town the word charming was invented for. Another day, San Gimignano, claiming more intact towers than any other hill town – 13, 14 or 15, depending upon the not-so-reliable source material. Or tiny Murlo, town of 17, which more resembled a movie set of a 13th century village than the reality of it. And then there was historic Volterra, flaunting evidence of Etruscan, Roman, Medieval and Renaissance influences.

Muro photograph courtesy of Victor Block.

A visit to Abbadia San Salvatore introduced us to an 8th century Abbey whose write-up talks about it being newly renovated. Those recent restorations? They took place in the 15th century. This sense of time warp is ever present. The present and past — long-ago past — coexist harmoniously as one can travel back and forth through multiple centuries within a couple of hours of doing day-to-day errands.

Whatever the village, be sure to walk off the main square to see where the people really live. Perusing 13th-century corridors an arms-length wide, flanked on both sides by two-to-three story stone apartments, we eavesdropped on venues teeming with life. The back streets appear even more historic and colorful than the already enthralling but more touristy central piazza. Admittedly, the local folks are probably not as impressed as I am at the origin of their lifestyles.

Every town has its church dating from the 1200s, museum celebrating its art, its de rigueur duomo, fortress and possibly Etruscan tomb. I rarely went into any of them. I’m not proud of this, and I don’t recommend it. I’m a travel writer after all, and this is sacrilege, but for me, the wonder of traveling is to be found wandering the streets, and in Tuscany especially, stopping at every café for a Cappuccino or scoop of gelato.

Gelato photograph courtesy of Victor Block.

Check out the wide, heavy wooden apartment doors with their ornate designs and fanciful brass knockers — to me, almost as appealing as the many works of art within the cathedrals and museums. Look through ubiquitous archways overlooking the red tile roofs of the towns below for yet another photo op demanding to be taken.

Driving through the Tuscan countryside, almost every bend produces another WOW moment — perhaps not the more dramatic views of, say, a New Zealand, but instead a more tranquil beauty. Picture this: an incredibly vast expanse of rolling hills, a patchwork quilt of vineyards, olive trees and wheat fields dipping into valleys and clinging to hillsides, with colors of green and brown and reddish gold depending upon the season and the crop, accentuated by stately, slender Cypress trees standing guard along long driveways leading up to stone villas.

Cypress trees photograph courtesy of Victor Block.

Looking out across the valleys, you recognize there’s something different about the light – it seems richer, more intense. A young artist we met who was painting her way through Tuscany characterized it as “luminescent.” Ah yes, I thought, that’s it.

Countryside photograph courtesy of Victor Block.

Grant & Patricia Wood from Mississauga, Canada, on their third Southern Tuscany trip reinforced the concept: “We fell in love with the simplicity, the community, the people, the views, the light. We left our hearts here so we had to come back. It feels like we’ve come home.”

Though Vic’s eyes were beginning to glaze over at the thought of another Medieval town, I was still entranced by the narrow streets, steep hills and back alleys. Yet we broke up our days with hiking in nearby national parks, meandering through local outdoor markets, checking out a Cock Festival that had been held in a close-by hamlet for over 700 years and doing errands such as laundry, email and shopping for quiet dinners at home.

But mostly we dined on pasta, cheeses and pizzas at the many tavernas in our neighborhood, every table sporting the ubiquitous bottle of wine. Even at lunch! Not a usual practice back home. One of our favorite hangouts was Taverna dei Barbi, an old stone tavern on the grounds of the vineyard where we lived. Sitting among the eerie granite-covered archways and columns, I felt like I was in a very sophisticated, warm, welcoming…dungeon.

Offered a menu in English or Italian, I so wished I could have said “Italiano, per favore” and meant it. But I had only learned just enough Italian to get into trouble. I could ask some basic questions but didn’t have a prayer of understanding the answers. Still, it found us “il banyo” (bathroom) and “la stazione” (train station) and, of course, a multitude of gelato flavors.

The Taverna’s sausages and salami come from their resident pigs; the cheeses from their sheep; the veggies from the garden and, of course, the wine from their vineyards. Most restaurants at home are not quite that self-sustaining. I was glad I hadn’t taken a tour earlier and gotten to know any of the local inhabitants by name.

Our days were filled with a meshing of hills and happenstance, vistas and vino, walled cities and watch towers; a chance meeting at a museum, church, fortress or, better yet, a wine tasting. After all, this is what Tuscany is famous for, and wine bars are as omnipresent on street corners here as Starbucks are in the States.

Perhaps, that’s the essence of the UNTOURS experience. There’s something more special about discovering such treasures on your own than being herded there as part of a group, according to a pre-determined time schedule that dictates how long you can spend looking before it hurries you through because the bus is leaving to go to the next stop.

Wine and cheese photograph courtesy of Victor Block.

It was so much nicer just to pick up some roasted chicken, wave to shopkeepers we had befriended and return home to sit on our porch, sip yet another glass of wine and savor our most recent exploits. For more information, contact UNTOURS at 888-868-6871 or visit their website at www.untours.com. Now that the EU has opened up travel to visitors from the States, UNTOURS expects their trips to start again, hopefully, very soon.

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Monterosola Winery is a 25 hectare hillside estate in the heart of Tuscany, Italy, between the world-famous wine-growing regions of Chianti and Bolgheri. It is a family owned and run vineyard with a brand-new architect-designed state-of-the-art cantina. Monterosola makes award-winning organic wines by combining old traditions with modern technology. Besides the reds they sent me, I received two bottles of white wine to taste. Here’s how they are described:

They Say: Cassero 2018 – “A sophisticated single variety Vermentino, straw yellow colored with youthful green highlights. Enjoys an elegant and consistent aroma with hints of white flowers, grapefruit, pear, white peach and a pleasing minerality. Fresh and well balanced on the palate with a lingering light finish.”

I Say: Cassero is a dry white wine made with the Italian Vermentino grape, which I first tasted (and loved) in Sardinia. It has 14% alcohol, is light and drinkable with a floral bouquet, tree fruit and citrus notes, and a medium acidity – ready to drink now. $15

They Say: Primo Passo 2018 – “A warm light golden color. Intense and elegant aromas come to the fore, ripe apricot, peach, citrus zest and minerality evolve into a hint of sweet spice. A generous, silky and balanced wine with an authentic personality. Remarkable aftertaste.”

I Say: Primo Passo is a blend of three grapes: Viognier, Grechetto, and Manzoni Bianco, the last two (even though Grechetto is originally Greek) being typical for a Central Italy white blend. Its fruity bouquet only hints at the flavorful and dry goodness this winner brought to the table. $28

The Meal: I have the ability to read a recipe and know if I want to cook it and who I want to cook it for. Ever since being served the Brazilian fish stew Moqueca in a whole pumpkin, I wanted to recreate that presentation, just not necessarily with fish. The October issue of Food & Wine magazine has a recipe for rice cooked in a whole pumpkin that I knew would be perfect for two old family friends with discerning taste. Since they also like white wine, they were perfect for this Monterosola Bianco tasting one sunny October Day.

In this age of pandemic dining, a warm early afternoon offered the perfect opportunity for an alfresco meal on the patio. My guests are always game guinea pigs when it comes to my penchant for trying out new recipes on company. Thank goodness, because it did not go as smoothly as planned, although it could have been far worse . . .

Prepping the pumpkin was easy enough, and the simplicity of the recipe had me thinking it would be a breeze. Rice, curry paste, coconut milk, and water are mixed and poured into the hollow pumpkin. Then it gets baked with the top on for one hour at 350 degrees. Easy as pie, right? It was in the oven and well on its way through the first phase of cooking when guests arrived.

We opened the lightly chilled Monterosola Cassero and sipped the delicious wine while nibbling snap peas in a hummus dip with toasted baguette slices and a side of brie. There was crunch, green, and my own smooth garbanzo & sesame paste to pair with the light “summer is still here” Cassero. After the first satisfying tastes of wine, I excused myself to finish the next cooking phase.

Once out of the oven with the filling bubbling, I stirred in fresh green beans, fish sauce and salt, replaced the top and popped the pumpkin back into the oven for another 45 minutes. Then it was back outside for more good conversation and wine. Part way through, I took the pumpkin out of the oven to come together. I opened the Monterosola Primo Passo then, so we could taste the two whites side-by-side. It was touch-and-go which was preferred as we finished the cocktail hour, but the Primo Passo definitely got to shine later.

The main course was beautiful straight out of the oven, and the fragrance filling the kitchen had everyone eager for a taste. I should have quit while I was ahead. The pumpkin split open moving it to a serving platter, so there was no photo op. Saving face, I scooped the insides into a bowl and we took that and a salad to the table. Unlike the wines we tasted, the meal never lived up to the fragrance. It was bland and so undramatic looking out of the pumpkin. The kindest remark was that at least I’d used fresh green beans, not canned or frozen. But they only knew that because the beans were very much al dente! I’ll know better if there is a next time.

Not every meal can be a success, and not every bottle of wine approach perfection. But the Monterosola whites delivered what they promised, a flavorful and delicious addendum to an otherwise unremarkable meal. They were the hit of the afternoon!

The Monterosola winery offers concerts and events in its various performance spaces, with fine dining to accompany their superior organic wines. I can’t wait until it is safe to travel again. After the pumpkin near-failure, I think I want my next wine tasting with their superb Italian food. Tastings and tours can be arranged through the Monterosola website.

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The T-Boy Society of Film & Music’s latest poll is dedicated to Sky’s the Limit,  where members select trips and destination/s in which money is of no concern. Like last month’s World’s Friendliest Destinations we’ve decided to continue with another uplifting theme due to the events of today. You’ll find members’ selections to be deeply personal and great fun, where we tap into their minds and go on an emotional journey and see what constitutes their wildest dreams.

Richard Carroll — T-Boy Writer:

Sky’s the Limit; Destinations where money is no object 

If I came upon a satchel of gleaming South Africa diamonds and with deep pockets where the sky’s the limit and money is no object, I would quickly book a private jet and invite family and close friends on a 21-day plus world excursion to Buenos Aires and a night of tango at Bar Sur with dinner at the Four Seasons; a few nights at remote Las Alamandas on the West Coast of Mexico; a visit to the Maya site of Tikal in Guatemala led by Maya guide Jose Antonio Gonzalez; dinner and lunch in Mexico City at Pujol, Mercaderes and Les Moustaches, serenaded by guitar and harp; a private Bordeaux winery tasting tour to Yquem, Margaux, Petrus, Lafitte Latour, and Haut Brion; overnights at Turtle Island, Fiji; dinner with Executive Chef Massino Defrancesca, Kimpton’s Seafire Resort, Cayman Islands; overnights at the historic 18th century Castadiva, Lake Como; three nights at The Ritz London,  and along the travel trail sharing with anyone in need.

Chloe Erskine — Educator:

Outer Space

Ed Boitano — T-Boy editor:

Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Railway – Russia

Much of my youth was colored by images of the Trans-Siberian Railway. All I really had was a little note card in a pack of other cards which illustrated the world’s most monumental engineering feats. At the length of 5,772 miles, traversing though eight times zones, my Sky’s the Limit  selection would be to experience Siberia via the Trans-Siberian Railway. Siberia constitutes 77% of Russia’s total land mass with the nation itself blanketing 11 percent of the world’s landscape. Reading about taiga forests; rugged mountains ranges; untamed rivers; ancient log infested  lakes; and little villages, first settled by Old Believers, preservationists of “pre-Nikonian” practices of the Russian Church, would no doubt be a stunning foray into a new world of images and history. After careful research, I discovered Golden Eagle, a luxury private train, considered the top of the line in deluxe first-class railway travel. My journey would commence in Moscow (or St. Petersburg) to the Pacific in Vladivostok. Perhaps  I’d bring half a-dozen friends who have a keen appreciation of caviar and vodka.  After all, isn’t this the Sky’s the Limit: Where Money Is No Object? Golden Eagle’s luxury service is provided by a provodnitsa, a female attendant in a military-style uniform, who keeps things running smoothly in a unique Russian way. Za Zdarovje!

Deb Roskamp — T-Boy photographer & writer:

Cruising.  Seeing the world. Two pleasures that bring me some of my greatest delights

Combine. Include a generous helping of the some of the most remote locales that I have fantasized visiting, but because of their location, make it highly improbable that I will. Sprinkle into the itinerary a few places that I’ve already been to, loved, but most likely will not return to.  Subtract COVID-19 and any pandemic to follow.  Find a pot of gold (4 kg worth).

My “Sky’s the Limit:” around the World in 167 days aboard Silversea’s Silver Cloud, departing January 25th, 2022 from Ushuaia, Argentina.  Includes Antarctica, Shetland Islands, multiple stops along Chile, Robinson Crusoe Island, Easter Island, Pitcairn Island, multiple stops in the Marquesas, Tahiti, Cook, Samoa, Fiji, Vanuatu, Solomon, and Papua New Guinea islands.  On to Australia, Indonesia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, India, Oman, Egypt, Greece, Albania, Tunisia, Sicily, Algeria, Spain, Portugal, France, England, Ireland, Scotland, Iceland, ending in Norway.  Aaah… bliss!

Fyllis Hockman — T-Boy writer:

Lodge at Tikana — Southland, New Zealand

So there I was lying in this massive tub overflowing with all kinds of goodies ‘cause I couldn’t decide between the rosewater bubble bath, the ginseng and orange blossom aromatic bath soak, the green tea and lime leaf water infusion disc or the green tomato and seaweed body scrub. I was so stressed out by the decision, it was a good thing there was the lemon-scented calming oil to finish off with. Not your usual hotel amenities! Which is an apt introduction to the Lodge at Tikana in Southland, New Zealand. Tikana, by the way, means style in the Maori language.

Did I mention that while I was soaking, I was also making eye contact with a family of deer peering in the wide bath-tub-level window next to me? This luxurious two-story retreat, the only guest accommodations on the property, is part of a working farm which breeds the afore-mentioned deer as well as thoroughbred horses. But let’s get back to the important things. How many lodgings have YOU stayed in that came with its own wine cellar???

Okay, you had a wine cellar, you say. Well, what about your own latte-making machine in the kitchen? Imagine curling up on the couch in your living room with freshly made cappuccino? We’re not talking International Coffees here. Of course, you probably wouldn’t also have a little fawn outside your window.

The décor is combination art house and rustic elegance — steel and stone flow together between raw timber-framed floor-to-ceiling windows to create an environment that entices the eye and embraces the soul. A heady escape from civilization but with surround-sound entertainment and internet hook-up.

Picture this. While sipping cappuccino mid-day, I nibbled on cheese and crackers from the fridge; with the Chardonnay, I opted for olives and deli. Keep in mind, this is no hotel mini-bar where you’re charged extra for every indulgence. And indulgences abound.

Owners Dave and Donna — he, a vet; she, a horse trainer — who also know a thing or two about treating humans, take pampering to a whole new level. Their gourmet meals are 4-star Michelin for both food and presentation.

I was so relaxed after my bath I dined in the fluffy, multi-colored robe they provided — though my evening wear didn’t do justice to the beautifully attired table. A candelabra of multi-layered candles oozed ambience, and the silver meal-covers warmed our hearts as well as our food.

Chef Donna discussed our preferences for every course ahead of time — did we want the lamb or the venison tonight? Basted in garlic or encrusted in dukah? I have no clue what that is but it tasted yummy. And would you believe sticky date pudding with toffee sauce?

I inadvertently picked an award-winning wine from the extensive collection to accompany the meal. It was beginner’s luck but I didn’t feel the need to disavow the hosts of my sophisticated taste.

Such all-inclusive sumptuousness comes at a price, of course — a hefty one — but this is Sky’s the Limit: were money is of no concern— and I’ll be ready for my return to Southland, New Zealand.

Tom Weber — T-Boy writer:

Ashford Castle: Elegantly Wrapped in Irish Charm

Of the 522 medieval castles that dot the Republic of Ireland’s landscape, one stands “keep and ramparts” above all others: Ashford Castle, the oldest fortress in the country, a true treasure of the Emerald Isle and a real “sky’s the limit” destination.

Several years ago, I arrived at this iconic landmark under a fine mist and was led across a stone bridge straddling the River Cong in Co. Mayo by a piper in full regalia. “Céad míle fáilte! (One-hundred-thousand welcomes),” announced the general manager as I walked up the entry stairs, flanked by a pair of Irish Wolfhound statues — four-legged guests are always welcome — and stepped onto the bespoke carpeting and entered into a world of regal elegance.

Winner of the 2020 World SPA Award as Ireland’s best hotel spa, Ashford Castle, a five-star country estate, is set amid 350 acres of well-manicured greenery, gardens and rustic paths and trails that overlook the Lough Corrib, the country’s second largest lake. With a heritage dating all the way back to 1228, the castle turned the page on its history in 2013 when it was purchased by Red Carnation Hotels and immediately underwent a top-to-bottom, multi-million dollar renovation and refurbishment that was unveiled to much fanfare in 2015.

I’m handed a green leather key card to a lovely, renovated deluxe view room on the top floor of the castle. As I swiped the card over the security pad and pushed back the door, my jaw dropped in OMG fashion. My suite, like the other 82 guest rooms, is richly appointed as the meticulous attention to detail is found in the unique works of art, carefully sourced antique furniture with sumptuous fabrics and custom-designed carpet, king-sized bed, feature lighting, exquisite toweling and VOYA seaweed-based organic bath and beauty products.

Cullen’s at the Cottage, a summer-only bistro restaurant occupying a traditional thatched-roof cottage, serves up international and local dishes inspired by Beatrice Tollman, owner of Ashford Castle, in a casual atmosphere accented by friendly Irish hospitality. Greeted warmly by the manager, she and her young and eager wait staff went above and beyond the call of duty to ensure my dining experience at the Cottage was memorable. And, it was.

A nightcap was in order, so I retired to The Prince of Wales Cocktail Bar where the on-duty mixologist prepped a Jameson, neat. Seated at a glass-covered table showcasing a few antique flintlock pistols, I sipped slowly wondering all the while if these weapons were ever used in a duel at 15 paces.

Sleep arrives quickly as I tuck myself into the inviting bed — turned down by evening maid service — with luxurious 400-thread-count Egyptian cotton monogrammed bed linen, and highlighted by a complimentary box of Lily O’Brien’s chocolates resting atop one of the pillows. Night night!

When it’s not raining on your parade, and that’s a real possibility when visiting the Emerald Isle, there are plenty of outdoor activities to keep you busy around the castle in between breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tee it up at the parkland golf course; play singles or doubles on two all-weather tennis courts; go fishing; grab a kayak and paddle around the lake; mount a horse and hit the woodland trails, or take a carriage ride with the entire family; hire a bike and cycle the castle’s vast estate; take aim at clay pigeons and bullseyes with skeet and archery; play billiards; screen The Quiet Man and other box-office hits in the velvet-seated cinema; relax in the spa; or, do what I did: experience the ancient sport of falconry.

Ireland’s School of Falconry is the oldest established falconry school in the country. Here, castle guests can book a once-in-a-lifetime “hawk walk” and fly their very own Harris’s hawk in the nearby woodlands. Following its “handler” from tree to tree, your hawk periodically swoops down into your gloved fist, grabs a “snack,” then flies off again. You know it’s somewhere nearby from the sound of the tiny bells attached to its talons.

I was told that a “history” cruise around Lough Corrib, sailing daily, weather permitting, from Ashford Castle’s private pier, is a terrific way to explore the camera-ready surroundings of some of the lake’s 365 isles, one for each day of the year, and take in the panoramic views of the Connemara Mountains in the distance. I board the M.V. Isle of Innisfree, an original tender (lifeboat) from the Cunard Line, and we shove off. The knowledgeable captain/historian steers the boat and narrates the scene at the same time as we cruise across the lake. Meanwhile, an 80-year-old musician entertains guests topside on the “squeezebox” with a selection of Irish tunes, like Danny Boy and Rakes of Mallow. In between the history lesson and the ditties, a member of the crew ensures that glasses are kept full with wine or Jameson, or both, to ward off the cold wind hitting us straight on. Brrrr.

In 1906, the Prince of Wales was a guest of the Guinness family, owners of Ashford Castle at the time. The prince went on to become England’s King George V. In honor of his visit, the Guinness family built a special dining room which still bears his name. Dressed in coat and tie, I’m ushered into the graceful setting that is the George V Dining Room and prepare to dine like royalty. From acclaimed Chef Philippe Farineau’s kitchen, a bounty of food magazine-worthy dishes are plated before me from Ireland’s lands, seas and farms, all paired with stellar wines from Bouchard Finlayson Winery of South Africa.

With my 48-hour, fairy tale-like stay coming to an end, I add my name to the guest book to ensure that I’m part of the Ashford lore. I thoroughly enjoyed the elegance of Ashford Castle, but found its Irish charm simply irresistible.

Richard Frisbie — T-Boy writer:

A cruise around the globe

I don’t have that lifestyle, or even that imagination. My last vacation was in the 1980s — a week in southern California followed by a weekend at Amelia Island resort. Since then it’s just been an overnight to Maine to visit family once or twice a year, or my press trips which are certainly no vacation. “Sky’s the limit” travel is beyond my ken, not to mention my wallet.

That being said, after years of writing hundreds of cruise port excursions annually for the largest reseller of same, I would love to do a world cruise in the best stateroom/suite/penthouse on board, with a butler and an unlimited budget. That way I could socially distance, (which is more my nature than it is pandemic-related) and see the best of the best everywhere in the world using top guides in all ports, with enough time to eat local specialties, drink local wines, while touring museums, historic city centers, and beautiful countrysides.

Ringo Boitano — T-Boy writer:

Tuscany Calling – Italy

A private villa with a swimming pool, surrounded by vineyards in Tuscany. Included in the package would be a SUV rental car and a chef, who specializes in Cucina Toscana as well as Italy’s other 19 regions. Cooking lessons by request. The theme would be to relax, take day trips or longer, and host friends from around the globe.

Phil Marley — Poet:

Summer: Norway’s Fjords

To spend six summer months in a large remote, vacation cabin, with electricity or not. Hiking, fishing, boating, touring nearby waterside villages. Evenings spent around a grand table with family and friends, dining on mammoth communal meals. And the laughing and joking in eternal peace.

Winter: Québec City

Yes, it’s cold, but with a warm jacket, gloves and a pair of solid boots, you don’t even notice. The season is filled with the spirit of hygge, the Danish expression of coziness, evoking  a warm feeling inside. Reflections of lights and historic buildings bounce off the snow. Restaurants welcome you with blazing fires. And, if the chance you become bored, there is Québec winter festival,  Carnaval de Québec.

Skip Kaltenheuser — T-Boy writer:

Kashmir – Pakistan & India

Some places I’d like to go to are off-limits, at least to my sensibility, because of internal political strife or potential international conflict. And in this case, the tensions are between nuclear powers, Pakistan, India and China. I hope they find a way to work it out and the whole region becomes travel friendly, I’ve heard its beauty is awesome. When it opens, no doubt someone will put together some over-the-top digs and pleasures, in the style to which I’d like to become accustomed but probably won’t. But if it does open, I hope it’s also backpacker/hiker friendly, sans landmine anxieties.

Brent Campbell — Musician and composer:

• Trans-Siberian Railway, Russia — Moscow to Vladivostok.
• Former Soviet Republics — A driving trip through Eastern Europe, maybe start by taking overseas delivery of a new Audi in Germany.
• Remote South Pacific Islands — Samoa, Fiji, Tonga, Cook Islands.

Raoul Pascual — T-Boy webmaster:

With Sky’s the Limit, I wouldn’t necessarily go where it is expensive, but to where I probably could not ever imagine I could go.

• Go underwater in a yellow submarine tour.
• Go to the moon and see the earth.
• Go to the Brazilian rain forest and swing on ropes like Tarzan.
• Go to the most expensive cruise just to see what makes it so expensive.
• Go to Japan and soak up the culture of the big city and the tiny villages.
• Go to Singapore and Dubai to see how the filthy rich waste their money.
• Go to the Great Wall of China and enjoy the 360 degree view. I don’t think pictures can really capture this.
• Same goes with the Pyramids.
• Go to Alaska and marvel at the expanse of the icebergs. Eat fresh fish and crab.
• Go to Iceland and have a sauna massage.
• But in all this, I would want my wife and my kids to be with me because I’ve traveled alone before and it wasn’t fun without anyone beside me. I want to be in wonder with them.

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How the tasting for three people was done:

I briefly chilled the wines, then uncorked them and poured some into wine glasses, and we immediately took a sip. Then, we let them sit for an hour before we tasted again. While waiting that hour, I poured the wine through a Vinturi Tower wine aerator into different glasses. For each red, the sip was the worst, the aerator was second, and the open for an hour and poured was the fullest flavor – especially after swirling it in the glass for a bit. So if you don’t have time to let your wine breathe, use an aerator.

The two red wines according to Monterosola:

Mastio 2018 – “A beautiful rich ruby in color with elements of ripe fruits on the nose with a hint of red cherry, strawberries almonds and green herbs. A well-balanced combination of elegance and intensity on the palate with soft tannins and a generous aftertaste.”

Cresendo 2016 – “Deep garnet color with flavors of rich cherries, dried herbs, sweet oak, spices, black tea and toasted almonds. Both intense and complex on the palate it is powerful yet refined with a lengthy finish. Crescendo has great aging potential.”

What the tasting revealed:

Color, bouquet, and legs – both similarly red, the Mastio’s bouquet initially more inviting, but it didn’t have legs until it breathed. The Cresendo’s legs were walking from the first pour (see video), and the bouquet blossomed as the wine opened. Both are good quality for the price.

Finally, the taste:

Mastio’s medium bold and very drinkable flavor has red and black fruit notes and a smoothish tannic finish. Tuscany’s popular Sangiovese grape serves this wine well. There’s an herb taste I can’t place, surprising in a red, that adds to the complexity. One fellow taster preferred this imminently drinkable wine over the Cresendo, and went back to it after the tasting. Mastio is a great value and a perfect everyday wine that could be served for special occasions too. $15

Cresendo presents a stronger taste and smoother mouthfeel, with tobacco and oak notes beside the typical Sangiovese cherry that creates a full and complex flavor profile. If I had another bottle I might set it aside for tasting in a year or two, but it’s a lovely drink now if allowed to breathe. The other taster and I preferred this over the Mastio, and after the tasting had no trouble finishing it. Truthfully, if I’d had another bottle I’d probably have opened it right then. $28

Meanwhile… located in the heart of Tuscany, Italy, between the world-famous wine-growing regions of Chianti and Bolgheri, the Monterosola estate commands a hillside overlooking the medieval city of Volterra. Monterosola is one of the newest of the modern breed of estate vineyards that have become destinations in their own right. But what exactly is Monterosola?

Monterosola is a family owned and run vineyard with a brand-new architect-designed state-of-the-art cantina. They make award-winning organic wines by combining old traditions with modern technology. The family, Thomaeus, is a Swedish couple and their three grown children, each a sommelier in their own right, with the vision to buy an estate making good wines and turn it into a world-class producer of some of the finest organic wines in the world.

The new cantina was designed to use geothermal energy with heat pumps and a rain water collection system to generate sustainable energy and water consumption. It is naturally cooled and heated, and offers concerts and events in its various performance spaces, with fine dining to accompany their superior organic wines. I think it would be fun to visit and see their impressively located and designed facility. I’m used to seeing stainless steel fermenting vats, so a look at their concrete fermenting tanks (tulipes) and an explanation of their use would be educational. But mostly I want to taste their wines with their superb Italian food.

Tastings and tours can be arranged through the Monterosola website.

The post Monterosola – The Vineyard and Wine Tasting appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Italy is a young nation in an old land. Through much of its post-Roman history, Italy was fragmented into numerous kingdoms and city-states long before it became a unified republic in 1861. The Italy of today consists of twenty different regions, each offering their own customs and gastronomic holiday traditions. Today, the whole world seemingly knows of biscotti. Pronounced in Italian as bee-SKOH-tee, it literally means “twice baked” – with the result of an absence of any moisture in the biscuit. Known for its resistance from spoiling, it was a staple for Roman Legionnaires; both Christopher Columbus and Marco Polo would also take containers of biscotti with them on their long sea voyages.

The modern day renaissance of biscotti began in Tuscany, where it is known as biscottini or cantucci, and made with almonds. Some Tuscans call these hard, crunchy cookies wine-dunkers, for they are often times served with wine and dipped into the beverage. Like most Italian dishes, biscotti can vary from region to region. In Sicily, biscotti a rumba are diamond-shaped cookies and Regina (queen’s biscuits) are sesame seed biscuits.

In the Boitano family household it would not be Christmas without my Italian immigrant grandmother’s plate of biscotti which stemmed from her region of Liguria. There were countless other sweet delights on the table, but biscotti were everyone’s favorite.

Here’s her recipe that makes about 9 dozen.

• 2 cups sugar
• 1 cup melted butter
• ¼ cup anise seeds
• 2 tablespoons of vanilla (sometime whiskey)
• 6 eggs
• 5 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 2 cups coarsely chopped walnuts

In a bowl, mix sugar with butter, anise seeds, vanilla or whiskey. Beat in eggs. Mix with flour and powder and stir into sugar mixture. Mix in walnuts. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

Directly on a butter-greased baking sheet, shape dough with hands to form flat loaves and ½ inch thick, 2 inches wide, and as long as the baking sheet. Place loaves, two to a sheet, parallel and wide apart. Bake in a 375 degree oven for 20 minutes or until lightly browned

Remove from oven and let loaves cool on baking sheets until you can touch them, then cut into diagonal slices ½ to ¾ inch thick. Place slices close together, cut sides down, on baking sheets, and bake in 375 degree oven for 15 more minutes or until lightly toasted. Cool on wire racks and store in airtight containers. They can last forever; well, maybe at least a year.

Buon appetito!

This article is dedicated to the memory of Adelina Boitano Bogny: June 26, 1902 – January 11, 1997.

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