Q one: What was your first memory of Seattle?

When my family arrived from Canada, I was eleven, and was very naïve and ignorant of the ways of the world that day. So, my first memory was moving into a small apartment on Lower Queen Anne Hill. Eventually I would become a high school student on the top its hill, the first place I met my lifelong friend, Ed Boitano, now an editor of www.TravelingBoy.com.

As we unloaded our baggage, though there wasn’t much, for the small apartment was fully furnished, I noticed there was a strange buzz in the air, unlike anything I had ever heard before.

Later, I learned it came from concert at the site of the 1962 Seattle World’s Fair, by a rock group from Liverpool, who had shockingly long hair. They were named the Beatles, and in a few years would have a great impact in my own life. Soon I transitioned to John Lennon government issued horn rimmed glasses and began to wear my hair long.

Q two: When you were young, how did your parents transition into a new life in Seattle?

My father was a Cockney Londoner, who was a boxer before joining the British Merchant Marines. One of the vessels took him to Winnipeg, where he met and married a 14-year-old Canadian farm girl, who gave birth to my brother and me.

My father, Peter, found a graveyard position as a security guard in downtown Seattle’s new 50 Story Bank Building. We were proud of his new tenure, though others though it was absurb to take pride in such a low profession. But we would remind them, it was an honest job, and he was in charge of protecting a high building, which was then the tallest throughout Seattle.

Q three. You speak with admiration about your father. You must have gotten along with him.

As I said, my father was a Cockney from London, and my brother and I would laugh, when others could not understand what he was saying. And sometimes we would laugh at ourselves, too; for we couldn’t understand a single word he was saying either, and were given a one-way ticket to be alone in our bedroom.

In the early morning, around 6 a.m., his night of work was over, and he would pack our family in a Studebaker for a trip to Seattle’s Green Lake.

And it was there that he taught me how to swim and dive. Due to the early morning hour, the area that surrounded Green Lake was empty of people, and we had the lake to ourselves. And I enjoyed the solitude, for no others would see me struggle and swim, and laugh at me as I crawled up to the shore.

Our high school on the top of Queen Anne Hill was famous for its setting and spectacular city views. But for us it was just an old building and we would barely notice the views. Ed Boitano had Norwegian uncles who were QA Grizzly graduates in the 1910s. Recently, he informed me that General Leslie Groves, who was played by Matt Damon in the 2023 film, Oppenheimer, was QA alumni of the class of 1914.

My Seattle friend, Ed, would boast that he could watch the Space Needle’s construction from his elementary school playground at the Seattle district of Magnolia. He would also boast that he was a native Seattleite, while I was only a mere transplant from distant Canada. These things have always been important to him… for he likes to be one up on the next guy.

The post Reflections of my Childhood on Seattle’s Queen Ann Hill appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Curated by Ed Boitano

——————

Dear Italian-American:

I am planning my first trip to Italy. I want to see Rome, Florence and Venice. I plan on arriving in Milan. Friends have told me to quickly bail out of Milan and use it as a place to head out to more historic places. Should I ignore the city and go on my way? — Susan of Portland, OR

Dear Susan:

If you are in search of ancient Roman roads and ruins or medieval cobblestone streets, Milan is not the place. As the Italian capital of fashion and commerce, Milan is the city of now. It’s simply fun to just sip a coffee at Piazza del Duomo and watch tall, fashion clad models rushing off to unknown destinations. Yes, Venice is the city of canals, but Milan still has a few at the Navigli District, a canal area that once connected Milan with Lake Maggiore. The innovative system of locks was designed by Leonardo Da Vinci in the late fifteenth century. One of the canals actually stopped directly in front of the Duomo di Milano, the world’s most brilliant cathedral, which took nearly centuries to complete. With 3,400 statues on the façade, plus 700 marble figures and 135 gargoyles, the pink hued Condoglian marbled Duomo holds the record for the most statues in the world. Back to Leonardo, the Renaissance man spent 17-years in Milan, where his fresco of The Last Supper is available for viewing at the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, but make sure to get your tickets in advance.

Climbing up the Duomo di Milano‘s stairs to its terraced rooftop is mandatory; you’ll see spectacular vistas of the city, the Lombardian countryside and the Swiss Alps, plus be surrounded by angels built on buttresses. Also, just a few yards away is La Scala, the world’s greatest opera house. There’s a chance that tickets might be available; but can be expensive and somewhat difficult to procure. For a glimpse of the opera house’s interior, you might consider booking a museum tour, where mine consisted of watching a pre-opera arrangement of lighting in the theatre and a trip to La Scala’s museum. Outside you can walk through the passageway just like Verdi, Toscanini and Maria Callas did when strolling to and from La Scala.

And a sampling of local cuisine will introduce you to new dishes, unique to Lombardy: Costolette di Vittelo (breaded Milanese veal), saffron infused Risotto and Osso buco alla Milanese.

And, Susan, remember Milan embodies la bellafigura: “ Behaving well and looking good doing it.” With me, they apparently made an exception. — The Italian-American 

Dear Italian-American:

I’m not an Italian rookie, seen much of the sites and want more. Scheduled for another jam-packed trip back – with no Covid – this summer. But never seen Bologna or Parma. Which one should I pick? — Stan of Ventura, California

Dear Stan:

A visit to Bologna or Parma qualifies as a win-win solution. Both cities are located in the region of Emilia-Romagna and are relatively close to one another; 54 miles with 38 trains per day. So, if possible, consider revising your packed schedule, and visit both. You’ll thank yourself, but your increasingly larger stomach may not.

Parma is smaller than Bologna, more laid back, almost in a countryside setting. The city is the birthplace of conductor Arturo Toscanini, his home now a museum, and film director Bernardo Bertolucci. I noticed that the T-Boy Society of Film & Music selected his 1970 political drama, The Conformist as his best movie. It is also the birthplace of Parmigiano-Reggiano, which contains only approved ingredients, then aged at least one-year, and Prosciutto di Parma, a licensed cured ham, made only from the hind legs of pigs, and aged during a dry-curing process. Moderna, nestled between Parma and Bologna on the south side of the Po Valley, is famous for its namesake Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.

Bologna is much larger than Parma. It’s a college town, flushed with students, featuring Università di Bologna, the first and oldest university in the world (circa 1158). Bologna is also Italy’s most educated and forward-thinking city, culturally regarded as the nation’s greatest liberal city. Often referred to as the city of learning, exemplified by its status as the world’s first city-state to abolish slavery. Stan, sure you understand when speaking of Italy as a nation, the unification of the city-states didn’t happen until 1840, where Italy is often noted as a young nation and an old country.

And then there’s the food. Bologna has long been considered the gastronomic capital of Italy. On the Bolognese table you might find Mortadella, Tagliatelle (made with eggs) al ragù, Tortellini and Lasagna. You may be surprised to find Lasagna and ragù heavier and more robust than its Italian-American counterparts.

And, Stan, remember that Bologna is called La Grassa (the fat one) for a reason. — The Italian-American

Dear Italian-American:

Often times when eating at Italian restaurants in America, I notice some people twirling spaghetti with a fork into a big spoon. When some see me only using a fork but still twirling, I receive almost an arrogant look. Am I doing it wrong? — Linda of Cleveland

Dear Linda:

On the contrary, you are using proper Italian table etiquette, while the others are not. In Italy using a fork to twirl ribbon or sting pasta in a spoon is just not done. If you do use a spoon in Italy, the arrogant looks might come from the staff or diners, well aware that you might be a clueless North American, devouring pasta incorrectly. I have addressed this question to many friends and restaurant servers in Italy, and the normal reply is, Spoons are for children!

Linda, I completely understand your confusion; for I too have received those somewhat arrogant looks while dining at an Italian-American restaurant. What can we do? Nothing. The fact that we are aware of the proper Italian protocol by not using a spoon should lead to peace of mind. Simply enjoy your meal and ignore those disparaging looks. Meals are for enjoyment, not for confrontations.

I believe the popular 2015 film, Brooklyn, where the Irish immigrant, played by Saoisre Ronan, was given instructions on how to use a spoon when eating pasta, almost created a blueprint for many of us on Italian-American dining.

Buon appetito! — The Italian-American

This installment of our advice column comes to you from T-Boy’s Ringo Boitano, a second-generation Italian-American, whose ancestral home hails from the hills of Genoa in the region of Liguria. As a lifetime consumer of Northern Italian cuisine, i.e., polenta, risotto, pesto, ravioli, focaccia, and with little attention to his waistline, offers important travel advice regarding the Italian cities of Milan, Bologna and Parma; as well as addressing a question about correct Italian table etiquette when eating long strands of ribbon pasta.

Readers, feel free to ask the Italian-American any question of your choice at **@tr**********.com Also, queries about non-Italian destinations or any form of travel welcomed. T-Boy has an illustrious team of writers with an acute understanding of their ancestral homeland. Next up will be Dear Icelandic-American. I’m curious to learn more about the Icelandic tradition of eating starvation foods.

— T-Boy

The post Dear Italian-American: Travel Advice on N Italy appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The pilot on the Jack Harter Helicopter tour glided the chopper through the lush green valley of Waimea Canyon. Coined the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, you could smell the gentle fragrance of the Kaua’i laua’e ferns, alluded to in many Hawaiian chants and traditions. From my bird’s eye perspective, I was stunned by the tropical beauty of this Polynesian Garden of Eden of waterfalls, rainforests and deeply-cut valley.s.

When visiting a new destination I try to start my trip by heading up to the area’s’ tallest structure to get a good orientation of the landscape. But this was not to be due to kapu (local law) that prohibits buildings on this rural 552 square mile island to be no taller than a coconut tree – so I opted to take a helicopter tour to reflect on what I had already seen as well as sites I had missed. After all, much of Kaua’i is inaccessible by car, plus 50% of her 111 miles of coastline are beaches.

Our pilot offered a non-stop educational narration that took the helicopter tour to even a higher level. The oldest and 4th largest of the major Hawaiian Islands, it is believed that the first humans migrated to Kaua’i from the Marquesas Islands around 500 AD.

The ingenious Polynesian explorers were ultra-sophisticated sailors, with a highly complex navigational system based on the observation of the stars, ocean swells and flight patterns of birds. Their primary vessel was a 50 to 60 feet long canoe, consisting of two hulls, connected by lashed crossbeams. A precursor to the modern catamaran, the sails were made of matting drove. Long steering paddles enabled the mariners to keep it sailing on course. The canoes could accommodate roughly two dozen people, food supplies, livestock of pigs and poi dogs, and planting materials, essential for the long expeditions and the eventual founding of new island colonies. Like athletes, they would go into vigorous training prior to voyages, even conditioning their bodies to deal with less food and water.

British captain James Cook was the first westerner to arrive in 1778, which led to the invasion of grizzled New England whalers, unflinching missionaries, and unscrupulous plantation owners from the U.S. mainland. They also brought European diseases in which native Hawaiians had no immunity, killing 90% of the population. In the Marquesas Islands alone, it is believed that 98% of its people perished due to various pandemics. It is a tragic story that existed throughout the Columbian Exchange, a tragedy which history often prefers not to mention.

As the helicopter flew over 22 mile-long Na Pali Coast State Park, I could almost make-out some of the same hikers on the rugged 11-mile one-way coastal hike that I had spotted the day before while a guest on Capt. Andy’s Sailing Adventures for a snorkeling experience. As before, most of the hikers were too busy to look-up; their eyes firmly on the ground, navigating the treacherous hike, while passing mountain springs and Hanakapi’ai Falls.

Revisiting by air, I remembered how the Waimea Canyon and Wailua River Tour offered a good overview of the island by road, with the reward of a cruise on the sacred 20 mile-long Wailua River, home to the remains of historic religious sites.

Numerous family farms came in view with orchards of pineapple, papayas, avocadoes and other exotic fruits. Cattle and sheep could be seen grazing on grassy fields. Soon we flew over North Shore of Hanalei Valley to the largest taro-producing-farm in the state.

Today 90% of all food items in Kaua’i are now imported from the mainland. This includes even sugar and pineapple. Prior to the arrival of canned food brought by plantation owners and the military during WW2, there were virtually no instances of obesity. There’s now a group of cutting-edge chefs on Kaua’i who are doing something about this phenomenon – by partnering with local farmers, ranchers and fishers; bringing food items directly from the source to the table. Rather than designing a menu, then trying to find the ingredients to match them, they are creating indigenous menus based on available locally-grown produce, grass-fed livestock and fresh-caught island seafood – thus showcasing the bounty of Hawaiian Region Cuisine. The food is fresh, healthy and flavorful – and helping to sustain Kaua’i’s local food industry.

How does an entrée of wasabi-crusted snapper with Lilikoi Lemon Grass and Beurre Blanc sound? Well, how about ahi poke in a crispy Lumpia bowl with an Asian slaw of spicy sesame Aioli & Tobiko Caviar or a mushroom, fennel, onion and goat cheese tart with spinach and shaved red onion?

But let’s still not forget about the luau (feast); after all, it is all part of Hawaiian fun and an institution in backyard celebrations.

• Taro – a starch staple, generally pounded into poi, used to cut down on the more salty traditional foods
• Laulau – pork or chicken and salted butter fish, steamed in taro and ti leafs
• Lomi Lomi – diced salted salmon, tomatoes and onion
• Sweet Potatoes – by way of the Peruvian Andes
• Poke – cubed items, but primarily fresh squares of ahi/tuna
• Kalua Pig – cooked whole in an imu underground oven
• Hapuia Cake – made with coconut milk
• Shave Ice – no, not Shaved Ice, made with secret homemade tropical syrups

Where to Stay

Due to the small scale size of Kaua’i, virtually every property is convenient to the island’s seemingly endless attractions.

• Sheraton Kauai Resort
• Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas
• Outrigger at Waipouli Beach

Perhaps Jean-Marie Josselin, owner/chef of Josselin’s Tapas Bar & Grill, said it best: The greatest pleasures of the heart are the simple ones.

For further information, log on to www.kauaidiscovery.com

The post A Taste of the Garden Island of Kaua’i appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Now, as I stood on the shores of Naples, I was about to experience the real REAL THING. I had prepared myself with plenty of research for this sacred occasion. The word pizza was first documented in AD 997. Baker Raffaele Esposito from Naples is often given credit for creating the first such pizza pie. Unlike the wealthy minority, Neapolitans required inexpensive food that could be consumed quickly. Pizza, sold by street vendors or informal restaurants, met this need. The early pizzas (known to the world as Pizza Napoletana) consumed by Naples’ poor were prepared with simple and fresh ingredients: a basic dough, San Marzano tomatoes, grown in the volcanic soil of Mount Vesuvius, a splash of olive oil and some salt with no cheese, basil and fancy toppings. The pie was then baked in a wood-burning oven made of volcanic stones from Mount Vesuvius.

Italy unified in 1861, and King Umberto I and Queen Margherita visited Naples in 1889. Legend has it that the traveling pair became bored with their steady diet of French haute cuisine and asked for an assortment of pizzas from the city’s Pizzeria Brandi, the successor to Da Pietro Pizzeria, founded in 1760. The variety the queen enjoyed most was called Pizza Mozzarella, a pie topped with mozzarella di bufala – yes, the Roman brought buffalos to the Italian Peninsula – San Marzano tomatoes and green basil. (Perhaps it was no coincidence that her favorite pie featured the colors of the Italian flag.) From then on, the story goes that particular topping combination was dubbed Pizza Margherita.

The art of Neopolitan pizza-making, was recently added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. UNESCO says the designation is meant to safeguard and raise awareness about forms of cultural heritage — often passed down from generation to generation — before they die out. The Naples-based Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (True Neapolitan Pizza) will only issue its trademark to restaurants that follow even more stringent guidelines. But the result should be a pizza for the senses with “the flavor of well-baked bread. The slightly acidic flavor of the densely enriched tomatoes, mixed with the characteristic aroma of the oregano, garlic or basil ensures that the pizza, as it comes out from the oven, delivers its characteristic aroma.”

Pepperoni and pineapple lovers are out of luck. The association says only two kinds of pie are authentic: marinara pizza with tomato, oil, oregano and garlic and margarita pizza with the addition of cheese and basil. Neapolitan pizza has a thin crust. The edge of the crust, when baked, grows larger. It actually looks like a bicycle tire.

When news of the UNESCO recognition broke in Naples, pizza-makers handed out free slices on the street to celebrate, according to the BBC. Two million people had reportedly signed a petition supporting the piazzaiulo application. “After 250 years of waiting, pizza is humanity’s heritage, its intangible heritage,” Neopolitan pizza maker Enzo Coccia told the BBC.

But, how was the pizza and what will I tell my East Coast friends? Well, it was pretty good. Though I prefer focaccia from my ancestral homeland in Genoa (courtesy of my grandmother) and Chicago’s Deep Dish Pizza. But most importantly, in the future when I’m told that I don’t know what REAL pizza is – I am armed and ready with a reply.

The post Pizza Napoletana: Naples’ Gift to the World. appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Palazzo Margherita, Bernalda, Italy– Francis Suite 9

Films and hotels have many aspects that are the same. For example, there is always a big vision, an idea. – Francis Ford Coppola

Francis Ford Coppola purchased Palazzo Margherita in 2004, transforming it into a luxurious Italian boutique hotel, believing it was time to introduce visitors to the stunning Basilicata region of Southern Italy. The Palazzo was first built 1892 by the Margherita family, in the hilltop town of Bernalda, ten minutes from the Mediterranean’s Lido di Metaponto Beach. With Mr. Coppola all works of art are done with passion and based on personal experiences – whether it be writing screenplays or directing films, producing Coppola Wines or conducting regional Italian cooking lessons; his works of art now includes transitioning the Palazzo to newfound glory.

The Francis Suite, for example, was inspired by Mr. Coppola’s Tunisian-born grandmother Maria Zasa. The suite features North African design elements like colorful mosaic tiles, bold Moroccan patterns and Tunisian textiles not to mention stunning views over the hotel’s lush gardens.

Bernalda, itself, was the birthplace and home to Agostino Coppola, Mr. Coppola’s grandfather, who always referred to it affectionately as Bernalda bella.

All of Palazzo’s nine rooms are designed and decorated by Mr. Coppola and acclaimed French designer Jacques Grange, where Coppola obsessed over every detail from the frescoes to the personally curated library. He wanted the Palazzo to become a place that his children would want to visit again and again, and therefore invited the whole family to contribute ideas to the design. His daughter, film director Sofia Coppola, was married at the Palazzo.

While the neighboring region of Puglia has become popular with tourists, the town of Bernalda remains relatively undiscovered outside of Italy. It is considered a part of Southern Italy where the culture, food, and wine remain authentic. The surrounding countryside, settled by the Greeks before the Roman era, produces sumptuous fruits and vegetables, as well as the Aglianico grapes, used to make wines of the same name.

Along with intimate luxury, Palazzo Margherita offers 4-day cooking courses, and nature experiences that include olive harvests, truffle hunting, biking tours, hiking in the Rupestrian Park and Rafting in Pollino National Park.

But, above all, it is the very sense of family that distinguishes Palazzo Margherita as one of the most charming boutique hotels in Italy.

Nelson Mandela

The Saxon, Johannesburg, South Africa– The Nelson Mandela Platinum Suite

For to be free is not merely to cast off one’s chains, but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others. – Nelson Mandela

Though his narrative needs no introduction, Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela was a South African anti-apartheid political leader, a revolutionary who spent 27 years in prison, and philanthropist who served as President of South Africa from 1994 to 1999. He was the country’s first black head of state and the first elected in a fully representative democratic election. He is also one of the most admired men in history.

In 1964, Nelson Mandela arrived on Robben Island where he would spend 18 of his 27 years in prison. Confined to a small cell, without a bed and a bucket for a toilet, he was forced to do hard labor in a quarry. He was allowed one visitor a year for 30 minutes, and could only write and receive one letter every six months. But his captivity at Robben Island transformed him. Through his intelligence, charisma and dignified non-violent defiance, Mandela eventually transitioned even the most brutal prison officials to his will, assumed leadership over his jailed comrades and became the master of his own prison. He emerged from it the mature leader who would fight and win the great political battles that would create a new democratic South Africa.

The Saxon Hotel was once “home” to Mandela after his release from prison. It was during this time that South Africa’s former president used the serene setting of the palatial estate to edit his autobiography Long Walk to Freedom.

Mandela was a regular guest of the Saxon, when the property was a luxurious residential retreat due to his relationship with its owners, the Steyn family. Located in the lush suburb of Sandhurst outside Johannesburg, the property was later converted into a 53-suite boutique hotel, with six pools, a library, wine cellar, piano lounge, award-winning restaurants and a sprawling spa with eight treatment rooms.

Today you can stay in the Nelson Mandela Platinum Presidential Suite, designed by Johannesburg artist Dean Simon. His design illustrates the stages of Mandela’s life, taking guests on a journey through Mandela’s rich narrative from his days as a young militant through his years as a statesman. Dark wood, animal skin rugs, copper lamps and traditional geometric patterns create a distinctly South African ambiance. In the entrance hall, a portrait of Nelson Mandela fragments into a mosaic of words (the president’s nicknames like “Madiba”) as the viewer approaches the work.

Dean Simon also created a statue entitled “27 Years” (representing Mandela’s time in prison), along with wall screens which depict Mandela’s face, only visible at certain times of day. You can also find Dean Simon’s pencil sketches adorning the walls of the hotel’s public areas. The architraves and doors are decorated in traditional South African carvings with images of crocodiles, lizards and birds, which are symbols of protection and good luck.

J.K. Rowling

The Balmoral, Edinburgh, Scotland– Room 552

I thought I can go to a quiet place so I came to this hotel because it’s a beautiful hotel. – J.K. Rowling

J.K. Rowling wrote most of her Harry Potter books in Edinburgh Scotland, later commenting that the city is her home and the place where the Harry Potter character evolved over seven books. Rowling’s personal narrative has proved to be inspirational to many; from a single mom on welfare, treatment for depression after the loss of her mother, studying to be a teacher while writing the first Harry Potter book at a quiet café – and always with her sleeping two-year-old daughter at her side. Her initial intention was to become a school teacher in fear that her first Harry Potter book, Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone would not be published. But published it was, leading to six other Potter books, making her one of the most famous authors in the English language.

After publication of her fourth book and the release of the first Harry Potter film, Harrymania had conquered the globe, and Rowling found she could no longer write incognito in a café, and needed a quiet place outside of the glare of the public. Her quest to find that ‘quiet place’ was rather easy; she would write the ending of the final Harry Potter book in a secret suite at the city’s best-known luxury hotel, The Balmoral. Mum’s was the word at The Balmoral with many of the staff completely unaware of her six-month presence. Her daily writing routine included listening to classical music on the radio and drinking 8 to 9 cups of a tea a day.

After finishing Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Rowling left the hotel, but her spirit remains at The Balmoral who designated her secret six-month home as the J.K. Rowling Suite.

The suite was redesigned by Olga Polizzi, and features the antique oak desk Rowling used along with the queen-sized bed in which she slept. With its Harry Potter-stocked bookshelves and woodland-inspired décor, the J.K. Rowling Suite at The Balmoral is exactly how you would picture it to be. The crown jewel of suite, is a marble bust of the Greek god Hermes, which once sat on the desk where J.K. Rowling finished writing on January 11, 2007.

EXTRA

Richard Harris

The Savoy, London, England – Room Undisclosed

It was the food! – Richard Harris

At 70 years old, Irish screen and film actor, and lifelong mischief-maker, Richard Harris moved into London’s ultra-luxurious Savoy Hotel. Yes, there is a tie in to J.K. Rowling for he played the Dumbledore character in the Harry Potter movies until his death in 2002. For many T-Boy film critcs, though, he is most endeared for his roles in This Sporting Life, Il Deserto Rosso, Major Dundee and Juggernaut under the directorial hands of Lindsey Anderson, Michelangelo Antonioni, Sam Peckinpah and Richard Lester, respectively. A supporting role in Robin and Marian, with director Lester again, should also be included in his pantheon. We’ll leave 1967’s Camelot for others to decide.

According to an article by The Telegraph, He loved the fact that if he wanted a sandwich at 4 a.m., he could get one. By ringing a bell he’d have someone put his clothes away or bring his dinner-and for this he was willing to pay 9,981 a week. He told The Telegraph, If you’re paying the mortgage on a home, you can’t ask the bank manager to fetch you a pint. Oh, and the ladies? You bring those in yourself.

So attentive is the service at the Savoy, that the staff makes notes of regular guests’ likes and dislikes. Harris indicated the precise temperature at which he preferred his porridge to be served.

And perhaps the best Richard Harris story comes from an interview with a Savoy historian: While Harris was being taken out of the building on a stretcher shortly before his death, he raised his hand and told the diners, ‘It was the food!’

The post Celebrity Hotel Rooms & Suites, Part 4 appeared first on Traveling Archive.

There are places I’ll remember
All my life, though some have changed
Some forever, not for better
Some have gone, and some remain
All these places had their moments
With lovers and friends, I still can recall
Some are dead, and some are living
In my life, I’ve loved them all

— John Lennon, excerpt from In My Life

The Little Drummer Boy — Costa Rica

In 1856, American William Walker and his ragtag army of mercenaries attacked Honduras, Nicaragua and later Costa Rica with the intention of creating a slave-holding empire with himself as its president. With the blessing of US President Franklin Pierce, Walker was successful in Honduras and Nicaragua, then turned his sights on Costa Rica. President Juan Rafael Mora Porras called upon the general population to take up arms and head north to fight against the foreign invaders. After routing a contingent of Walker’s soldiers at Santa Rosa, Costa Rican troops continued marching north, following Walker’s army to the city of Rivas. The Battle of Rivas was brutal and fierce with Walker’s men retreating into a hostel near the town center where they commanded an advantageous firing position. Juan Santamaría, a poor laborer and son of a single mother, had joined the army as a drummer boy. A general suggested that a soldier should advance towards the hostel with a torch and set it on fire. Juan Santamaría volunteered for the suicide charge, but with the condition that someone would look after his mother if he died. He then advanced and succeeded in setting fire to the hostel, and was mortally wounded by the enemy. His heroics were the defining factor in the Costa Rican victory at Rivas. Walker escaped, and eventually returned to Honduras in an attempt to reestablish his control of the region, but was captured and executed by a firing squad in 1860. Juan Santamaría, the Little Drummer Boy, is Costa Rica’s national hero. You will see monuments, statues and parks named after him throughout the nation. Juan Santamaría Day, a national holiday, is held every April 11 to commemorate his courageous death.

John and Yoko — Montréal

Located in the famous Fairmont Queen Elizabeth Hotel, this one-bedroom suite was the site of the legendary 1969 Bed-in for Peace in Montréal, where John and Yoko recorded the song Give Peace a Chance.  Guests singing along included Timothy Leary, Petula Clark, Tommy Smothers and whoever happened to be present in the room. The living room and bedroom feature memorabilia composed of press articles, framed gold records and pictures of the famous couple. The suite is available for lodging and can also be rented for parties.  Sometimes I will only make a pilgrimage to the room’s exterior, just to see the plaque on the door.

The Old Hanging Oak — Houston

From the top of the double-decker tour bus we passed blocks of Houston’s commanding, almost futuristic-looking office towers that dwarfed the remaining older buildings in the surprisingly modest downtown center.  As the tour continued, an oak tree situated behind a gate caught my attention. The guide informed me that it was the Old Hanging Oak, a 400-year-old tree, the oldest in Houston. The official word was that it had been used to hang over eleven criminals between 1836 and 1845. Unofficially, I learned it was the source of an untold number of lynchings, generally of African-Americans, during the Jim Crow racial segregation laws at the end of the 19th century. In particular, when African-American troops in WW1 , treated as heroes in France, returned home to the states, they had a greater sense of self-esteem, but were pushed down and faced virulent hostility by white Americans. Perhaps only the Old Hanging Oak could tell the real story of all the atrocities in which it has played a part. It’s not unusual to bury unsavory parts of history. There was barely a mention of the now defunct Enron, whose branding was once proudly displayed throughout the city. The Old Hanging Oak made me think how much Houston had progressed, where it is now one of the nation’s most ethnically diverse cities, with one in four Houstonians foreign born. The Old Hanging Oak Tree of Houston is a symbol of hatred and racism, but now represents a reconciliation of the past and a better tomorrow.

The Doolough Tragedy — Ireland

My wife and drove through the sweeping hills of the Connemara in County Galway, a landscape once described by Oscar Wilde as a place of ‘terrible beauty.’ We pulled off the road to study a Famine Trail. Known as the Doolough Tragedy of 1849, where scores of destitute and starving people staggered through horrendous weather for 15 miles to a manor’s house in the hope of food, only to be turned away. Apparently, the grand man of the manor did not want to interrupt his lunch and never met them. Later, corpses were found  by the side of the path with grass in their mouths. Too weak to walk or speak, many were crawling to churches so that they could be laid to rest on consecrated ground. Once a year a Famine Walk  takes place on the trail to commemorate the victims.

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I will never forget the night: I had just put my head down on the pillow. The day had been a fun – but it was also long and taxing, and a good night’s sleep was in order. Suddenly, the blaring sound of a bulldozer burst into the room. I bolted out of bed.  I looked at my watch – it was 1 a.m. I charged over to the hotel window and pulled open the curtain. Across a small creek, there was a man outside who was, well, operating a bulldozer. His family must love this, I thought. Upon closer inspection, I could see he was surrounded by his wife and young children. They almost looked as if they were going to a picnic later after the chore. I forgot to mention that the time and place was the month of June in Fairbanks, Alaska. The midnight sun was so blinding that I had to squint my eyes to see. I began to understand the real meaning of insomnia, and was ready to experience more of Alaska’s unique surprises, surprises that I still carry with me today.

Alyeska – The Great Land

A colleague in the cruise industry once said to me, ‘First you do all the other cruises, and then you do an Alaska Inside Passage cruise. She was right. With its pristine fjords, sweeping glaciers and endless snowcapped mountains, the Inside Passage is a tough act to follow. So what to do after having done that cruise – particularly when the cruise experience only wets your appetite for more Alaskan wonders? Well, an exploration of the state’s interior is the next logical step. With over 3,000 rivers and more than 5,000 glaciers, the state is one-fifth the size of the continental United States and two-and-one-half times the size of Texas. Vast expanses of wilderness encompass Alaska, with millions of acres of national parkland and wildlife refuges, much of which are accessible only by boat, train or plane.

Fortunately, many cruise companies now offer extended land packages that are fully escorted, offering a comprehensive overview of many of Alaska’s amazing sights. I opted for Royal Caribbean International‘s four-day land package from Fairbanks to Anchorage. Covering over 400 miles through stunning mountains and untouched wilderness — this would prove to be the ideal way to explore more of what the Aleut Tribal Nation call ALYESKA – THE GREAT LAND.

Anchorage is Alaska’s largest city and the state’s main transportation hub. In a sense all roads lead or end in Anchorage. The city boasts all the urban pleasures of fine dining, shopping, nightlife, world-class museums along with an endless array of tours and sports packages. My pick: The twenty-six acre Alaska Native Heritage Center, which provides a fascinating insight into the arts, customs and lifestyles of the indigenous peoples of Alaska, which include Iñupiat, Yupik, Aleut, Eyak, Tlingit, Haida, Tsimshian, and a number of Northern Athabaskan cultures.

Denali National Park: Spread out over six million acres in size, Denali National Park is larger than the state of Massachusetts, and is one of the world’s last great frontiers for wilderness adventure. Established as a national park in 1917, it remains largely wild and unspoiled, just as the native people knew it. At 20,320 feet, Mount McKinley is the highest mountain in North America and the centerpiece of the park. Named for President William McKinley, it is still called Denali by the Athabasca Tribal Nation. My pick: A seven-hour bus ride on the Tundra Wilderness Tour for undisturbed wildlife viewings.

Fairbanks: Located 120 miles south of the Arctic Circle, Fairbanks was established in 1902 as a gold rush town. Today it is the bustling capital of the north and has the distinction of having the widest temperature swings in the U.S. Temperatures may fall to 65 degrees below zero in winter, and regularly hit 80 degrees above in summer. My pick: An excursion on the Riverboat Discovery Sternwheeler, with a stop at an Athabasca village where you’ll see traditional fishing, hide tanning, dog sledding demonstrations, and how the canine is trained to become a human’s best friend in the stark winter months.

Juneau: Nestled along the glistening Gastineau Channel, Juneau is the only U.S. capitol city inaccessible by road. It’s a pulsating city, buzzing with government workers on its streets. A trip to Mendenhall Glacier is the most popular excursion, but my pick is the 1800 foot tramway ride to the top of Mount Roberts for wildlife viewing platforms, the Juneau Raptor Center and breathtaking views of the channel.

Ketchikan: Billed as the Salmon Capital of the World. If it’s a fishing excursion that you want, Ketchikan is the place for it. My own pick, though, is a tour of the Totem Heritage Center, which features a collection of carved totem poles and carving demonstrations.

Kodiak: As one of seven communities and the main city on Kodiak Island. All transportation between the entire island and the outside world goes through this city either via ferryboat or airline. Kodiak is known for its own species of Brown Bear – the Kodiak Bear.  CVB pick: A flight-seeing tour to see Kodiak Bears at the Wildlife Refuge. Alaska Fish and Game built a fish ladder where you’ll witness sows (momma bears) teaching their cubs how to fish. There are no fences or no viewing platforms protected by glass. You literally walk to the side of a river and watch bears fish in the wild.

Nome:  The city of Nome is located on the south coast of the Seward Peninsula facing Norton Sound, part of the Bering Sea. The city is the site for the finish of the 1049-mile Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race from Anchorage, the longest sled dog race in the world. Summer temperatures combined with the non-stop midnight sun warms the Bering Sea to a tropical 40° to 50°F. Some Nome youngsters consider this warm enough for swimming and on rare occasions, adults can be seen kayaking and windsurfing. For those visitors who like a challenge, an invigorating swim in the Bering Sea might be something to write home about. My pick: Exploring the City of Nome’s 100 years of Gold Rush history.

Seward: Sandwiched between the Kenai mountains and the waters of Kenai Fjords National Park, Seward is one of Alaska’s oldest and most scenic communities with Mt. Marathon rising steeply behind the town. A spectacular 2.5 hour drive south from Anchorage brings you to this seaside village, which offers a bustling harbor, quaint shops and galleries, and many different ways to tour Kenai Fjords National Park. CVB pick: The six hour National Park Tour is a must see for visitors.  Seeing the glaciers and diverse marine life, particularly the humpback whales and orcas, is an experience of a lifetime.

Sitka: Nestled on Baranof Island and offers an amazing mix of Tlingit, Russian and U.S. history and culture.  The attractions are endless. My pick: The Sitka National Historical Park. The 113-acre coastal park features the Southeast Alaska Indian Cultural Center, plus beaches, hiking trails and scores of totem poles.

Skagway: Located on the northern tip of the Lynn Canal, Skagway was born as the land entryway for thousands of gold-crazed miners to the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. The town is well-preserved and rich in gold rush history. My pick: A trip aboard the vintage White Pass & Yukon Route railway for a train journey back into the days of the Klondike Gold Rush.

For further information, contact Travel Alaska

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The first thing you notice is the fragrance; where the intoxicating perfume of the tiare flower announces to your senses that you are in a magical place, overflowing with tropical vegetation and soothing trade winds. It is the same fragrance that the English seamen on the HMS Bounty first encountered; but they came not for flowers, but for breadfruit, intended as a new food staple for their African slaves in the West Indies. But that was another time and another emotional place. Today, Papeete, located on Tahiti Nui (“Big”), is Tahiti’s vibrant capital city and gateway to her islands. Roughly one-half of all of the Tahitian islands’ population live in this city. Papeete bustles with world-class resorts, restaurants, nightclubs and endless shopping.

Marche de Papeete

Spread over an entire city block, the two story Marche de Papeete has occupied the same location in the commercial center since 1869. It is a must-see for every visitor. The first floor features fruit, flowers and souvenirs to fresh seafood, produce and takeaway meals. I found that hand-painted pareus (sarong) — worn by women and men alike — make an inexpensive gift to friends. Upstairs, shoppers will find larger retailers selling Tahitian pearls, ranging from inexpensive to the opposite. Most importantly, it is the ideal venue to kick back with a tropical smoothie, and watch merchants and local shoppers laugh, gossip and converse. There is no better place to enjoy the pulse of Tahitian life.

Back Story

Like many of the Pacific Islands, it’s a widely accepted theory that around three to four thousand years ago, there was a great migration from southeast Asia which led to the settlement of many Polynesian islands. The Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands offers a good overview of the island’s history. The English were the first Europeans to arrive, stripping the islanders of much of their heritage. In 1842, the French took over, and today the islands’ inhabitants possess full French citizenship, but the Gallic texture is evident only on the surface. Yes, the police keep the islands safe, but have learned to never enter a home when there’s a family disputes or even violence. Often times when a local commits an egregious crime, justice is handled the tribal way, where the offender might ‘accidentally’ fall from the top of a mountain or mysteriously drown while fishing.

Feats of Courage

The pōpao is the Tongan outrigger canoe, one of the smaller vessels of Polynesia. The canoe’s hull is carved out of a tree trunk and sticks (sometimes bamboo) and are often used as crossbeams that connect the outrigger or smaller hull. Tahitian outrigger canoes first arrived in Hawai’i around 200 AD, some large enough to hold up to 80 people. The pōpaos were filled with essential items like edible plants and water to ensure a safe voyages in search of new lands to colonize. Prior to long ocean voyages, the wayfarers would train like athletes, building strength and limiting water consumption. The navigational voyages — voyages of spectacular feats of courage, strength and skill — are still widely admired today. Numerous canoeists attempt to emulate the Polynesian voyages; but with the backup of small motors, compasses and enhancing food items, and certainly not a voyage into the unknown.

Arahurahu Marae, the islands’ only completely reconstructed marae, is an open-air place of worship and ceremony. The sacred temple is constructed of tiers of stones where the Tahitian elite made sacrifices. Yes, sometimes even human. Only the royalty are allowed inside, while commoners risk death by entering. My guide informed me that he had never once stepped into a marae. Somehow, I survived.

Put an inland safari on your list, too. My jeep tour was deep into the mountainous valley of Papenoo; a true Garden of Eden with fertile displays of ginger, vanilla, taro, noni and breadfruit. The medicinal and cosmetic benefits of the pants and flowers are well utilized by the Tahitians, renowned for their health, physical beauty and spiritual serenity.

Tahiti Nui has much to offer, but locals also proudly tout the outlying, less-populated islands for their beauty and tranquility. Like southeast Alaska, exploring the other Tahitian islands is best accomplished by booking an excursion on a cruise ship. You get to see more islands and it’s less expensive.

Bora Bora — The Romantic Island

With its alluring blue lagoons, lush tropical slopes and Mount Otemanu looming in the distance, this enchanting island is synonymous with romance. Bora Bora is ideal for a bike ride around the island, a leisurely hike, or to simply disappear by a refreshing lagoon. The history buff will enjoy seeing remnants of cannons manned by American servicemen during World War II. Until 1942, there were no roads and no vehicles on Bora Bora. Now tourism is well on the rise, with scores of over-the-water bungalows dotting the seascape, but to North Americans, this is still paradise found.

Moorea — The Magical Island

Moorea is the very essence of a South Seas island paradise, and it comes as no surprise that it is a favorite of many Tahitians. The beauty of the island, with its jagged green mountains and palm-draped beaches, is astounding. James Michener called it Bali Hai, Herman Melville based his novel Omoo on it, and Captain Cook spoke passionately of its landscapes and the beauty of the people. Moorea is unique among the Tahitian Islands in having magnificent expanses of both white and black beaches, while in most islands it is the pristine lagoon that illustrates much of their beauty. High in Moorea’s interior mountains, Polynesian royalty practiced their archery and constructed maraes hidden in rainforests. On a hilltop lookout between shark-tooth Mount Rotui and towering Mount Tohivea, there is an once-in-a-lifetime view once reserved only for the gods.

Raiatea — The Sacred Island

Raiatea (faraway heaven) was the cultural, religious and royal heart of Polynesia — the birthplace of the gods. The second largest Tahitian isle, and where entire clans canoed  off to find new homes on other islands. Today, you can paddle around Faaroa Bay and discover why the island was a favorite of Captain Cook.

Taha’a — The Vanilla Island

Taha’a offers a glimpse of the traditional tranquil life of the Tahitians. The flower-shaped island is surrounded by tiny motus (small islands) and in its fertile valleys farmers grow watermelon and vanilla — first cultivated in Mexico, but with a stronger flavor.

The Foods of Tahiti

Indigenous Tahitian cuisine uses what’s available from the land and from the sea, and is abundant in fish and fruit. The word, ‘fresh’ is essential. The taro root (more flavorful than the Hawaiian version), breadfruit, sweet potatoes, and plantains offer typical starch fare. Mangoes, bananas, watermelon, pineapple, papaya, guava, soursop and pummelo are in abundance. From the lagoons come parrotfish, perch, and mullet; from the open sea, fresh tuna, bonito, wahoo, scad and mahi mahi. Coconut milk and vanilla are incorporated into many of the dishes. With Poisson Cru, a French interpretation of tuna cured in limejuice with chopped green onions, cucumbers and tomatoes; and Fafa, a chicken stew with spinach-like taro leaves; you’ll find your taste buds assaulted with remarkable new flavors.

Tahiti & Her Islands: The C-19 Pandemic

Upon check-in at the airport, your airline will require proof of a negative COVID-19 test. The government of French Polynesia accepts an Antigen Test administered withing 48 hours of departure, or an “RT-PCR” Test administered within 72 hours of your international departure.

Today, Tahiti & Her Islands remains the definition of an enchanting island paradise, with the warmth and openness of its people the very essence of its charm and beauty.

For further information, visit Tahiti Tourisme.

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Winterlude – Ottawa, Ontario

Every February, Ottawa, Canada’s capital city, is host to Winterlude; three weekends of excitement and activity that celebrates Canada’s winter climate and culture. The festival includes ice skating, culture and live music shows along Rideau Canal Skateway; spectacular ice sculptures competition at Confederation Park; and activities for children, skating, ice mazes, ingenious ice slides, food, music and games at Jacques-Cartier Park.

Where does Winterlude take place?

Winterlude is known as one of the biggest and most popular winter events in Canada. The festival that started in 1979 attracts, every year, thousands of tourists from Canada and USA. Due to the numerous visitors during the festival days and the high demand for accommodations it is recommended to check hotel rates and book rooms well in advance. Most Winterlude activities are free of charge, but registration and admission fees may apply to certain events. See the festival’s program, venue, lineup information show time / schedule of events, how to get, parking, etc. here.

Winterlude starts off on January 31 to February 17, 2020.

For me, a highlight is when the frozen 4.8-mile-long Rideau Canal is transformed into the world’s longest skating rink. Located in the heart of Ottawa, between Parliament Hill and the Fairmont Château Laurier, seeing business people skating to work with backpacks and briefcases in hand is a sight that I will never forget. And I know that children on skates will never forget seeing a clumsy, terrified journalist trying to negotiate the ice.

Signature Winterlude Snack: BeaverTails are named after the shape of one of Canada’s national symbols – the beaver. Made with fried whole wheat pastry, then tossed in a bowl of cinnamon and sugar, they are a popular treat when taking a break at one of the booths along the Rideau Canal. They can also be made with toppings of garlic, cheese, jam or chocolate sauce.

About Ottawa

Situated on the border of the provinces of Ontario and Québec in central Canada, the Ottawa area is one of Canada’s most bilingual places with nearly half a million people speaking both English and French. As Canada’s capital, it boasts endless tourist attractions and rates a visit regardless of the season. Your tour should begin with a trip to the observation deck of the Peace Tower on Parliament Hill, which offers sweeping views of this world-class city. If you’re lucky, you may watch the proceedings of the Senate or House of Commons from the public galleries. Other attractions include vibrant neighborhoods, the Canadian Museum of Civilization, the National Gallery of Canada and the Canadian War Museum, which shows Canada’s history of war from the perspective of an average person.

Where to Stay: Fairmont Château Laurier

When in Ottawa, why not go the distance and stay in the legendary Fairmont Château Laurier. This palatial limestone structure with turrets is modeled after a French château and is located in the heart of the city, across the river from the Parliament Buildings. It makes a great place for warming après-snow enjoyment after a day in the cold.

Carnaval de Québec – Québec City, Québec

Nestled on the banks of Old Québec City, Carnaval de Québec is the biggest winter carnival in the world. Sixty-five years of history is reflected in this two-week festival that includes snow sculptures, Ice Tower, night parades, concerts, ice fishing, skating and other activities based on Québecois folkloric traditions.

When does Carnaval de Québec take place?

The Royal Court, the centerpiece of the reimagined festivities, offers a treasure trove of experiences for all age groups. Meet Bonhomme inside his very own Loto-Québec Royal Court! With bountiful lights, interaction, games and wonders, the Royal Court is bound to delight your every sense. The western-themed Tailgate and its country music, is the best way to kick off a day of canoe racing. You’ll hear the athletes yell as they brave the ice and reach for the buoy that hangs from the ferry itself. See the festival’s program, venue, lineup information show time / schedule of events, how to get, parking, etc. here.

Carnaval’s 2020 events commence February 7 – 16, 2020.

What’s New

The post-rigodon Lower-Canadian band Alaclair Ensemble and the rising stars of Quebec rap, FouKi and QuietMike, join forces to light up the stage of Bonhomme’s Ice Palace at the Loto-Québec Zone for one crazy festive evening.  The Christie North Slope, a brand-new snow sliding site, features a dizzying slide: the Christie Descent. This 300-foot long incline launches from a pad built right on Grande Allée street. Come encourage dozens of fearless athletes and witness their spectacular performances!

Located just a short drive out of the city (10 minutes) is the Hôtel de Glace, the only ice hotel in the Americas. Entirely made out of snow and ice, this magical man-made palace features rooms and suites, exteriors spas and sauna, a bar, a café, an exhibition room, a chapel for weddings and an ice slide. Guided daily tours are also available.

Signature Carnaval Snack: Maple Taffy (“tire d’erable”) is made by pouring hot, thick maple syrup onto a board of fresh snow. When it begins to harden, you grab a popsicle stick and pick up the taffy in a rolling motion, wrapping it around the stick. Maple syrup is a staple of Québecois cuisine, reflecting the natural taste of the countryside, where “sugar shacks” in maple groves are used to boil maple.

About Québec City

Québec City was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985 and is the only walled city in North America. The best way to explore this historic city is to stroll its narrow, cobblestone streets lined with stone houses, cathedrals and cafes. The city itself is nothing less than a living museum. Québec City has embraced its history, which is reflected with more than 32 museums, exhibition halls and interpretation centers. Pedestrian streets are populated with local artisans and musicians in this city were 95% of the residents are French-speaking. A quick journey down the funicular leads you to Lower Québec, the birthplace of the city. A ferry ride on the St. Lawrence River is mandatory for stunning photo opportunities.

Where to Stay: Fairmont Le Château Frontenac

Towering over the St. Lawrence River, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac is more than a hotel – it is quite literally the symbol of Old Québec. The castle-like property, with its majestic towers and turrets, evokes an era of time-gone-by, yet still serves as a center for what is Québec today. With the boardwalk to its front and the city to its rear, it offers easy walking access to Carnaval de Québec and Québec City’s countless attractions.

How to Make it Happen: VIA Rail Canada

Let’s see, two winter festivals in two different cities, two weekends and five mid-week days in between. Well, here’s how I did it: Fly Air Canada to Ottawa, on a Friday for Winterlude’s opening ceremonies. Then, on Wednesday hop aboard VIA Rail Canada for an eight-hour train trip to Québec City. You’ll discover, as I did, that this is more than a mode of transportation for Via Rail is an experience unto itself. Between cities, you’ll watch the Province of Québec’s snowy scenery roll past your window and discover the rich land that drew the first settlers there. VIA Rail’s first-class service offers plush seats, regional cuisine and an attentive staff who never seems too busy to answer questions about your journey. Make sure you order a Caesar, Canada’s answer to the Bloody Mary. On your journey, there’s also a short stopover in the main Montreal train station, which will allow you time for a self-guided madcap A Hard Day’s Night-style one-hour tour of this premier city. You will arrive in Québec City in the evening for Carnaval de Québec, then fly back at your convenience after your stay.

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While everyone seemed to be relocating north to Seattle, I bolted from my home town for the bright lights of Los Angeles. But I would return to my ancestral home often. While visiting, I would frequently kick myself for never exploring the amazing attractions outside of Greater Seattle. Sure, I knew Western Washington’s Olympic and Cascade mountain ranges, the islands of Puget Sound, the rain forests and the rugged Washington coast, but I never really gave the rich agricultural eastern part of Washington State a chance, which is known more for sun than rain. This spring I decided to do something about it.

In October 1805, Lewis and Clark arrived in the Palouse region. They were stunned by the beauty and magnitude of this sweeping landscape of rolling hills and plateaus. As with other tribes on their historic exploration, they made friends with the nomadic Palus Tribe, renowned as expert equestrians. The term Appaloosa is a derivation of the Palouse horse. Traditionally, The Palouse region was defined as the fertile hills and prairies north of the Snake River in southeast Washington and north central Idaho.

Today The Palouse Scenic Byway combines 208 miles of sweeping hills and spectacular vistas, expansive wheat and lentil farmlands, and small towns with distinctive, rich history and charm.

There is no center to The Palouse Scenic Byway; it is a place to simply leisurely drive along the gentle curving highways, sprinkled with antique shops, wineries, easy access venues for hiking and biking, and, above all, photography. If you ever needed to stop the world and simply relax, this is the place for it.

Pullman – My Home Base

With a population of 27,030, the charming town of Pullman offers spectacular natural beauty surrounding its core, plus offering urban amenities due to Washington State University towering above it. It’s also located right smack in the middle of the Palouse. There’s a refreshing small town feel, and the locals are welcoming and excited that you are exploring their area. A number of Pullman restaurants have embraced the slow food movement with the emphasis on seasonal and locally grown food. With bread made with local wheat, produce from nearby farms, cheese made at the WSU and fish from the Snake and Columbia Rivers, you are quite literally tasting the landscape.

Recommended Pullman Restaurants

South Fork Public House is the brain child of co-owner of Jim Harbour, who is also a professor at WSU. Utilizing regional ingredients, they are known for their wine and beer pairings with seasonal local food items. My favorite dish: MAC & CHEESE – penne noodles tossed in WSU-made Cougar Gold cheese sauce, topped with locally smoked bacon & seasonal scallions. The torpedo-like grissini, made with Palouse wheat, is ideal for dunking.

The Black Cypress is a venue that reflects the qualities of the Palouse region that keep people living here. A hybrid of Greek and local food items, owner Nick Pitsilionis places an emphasis on an appreciation for honest food, company, and drink. Many of the produce items come from his own farm.My favorite dish: TIE: Golden Lentil Soup – Washington is the US’s leading producer of lentils – served with seasonal bruschetta that consists of grilled local Panhandle Bakery bread made with Palouse Sheppard’s Wheat. And in-house smoked back bacon from a hog raised on the WSU campus, along with local apples and Guinness mustard served on the side. Guinness hops are imported from Washington State.

Where to Stay in Pullman

A Holiday Inn may not seem regional or unique, but there’s something about Pullman’s Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites that takes service and amenities to the next level. And even better, the Palouse is right at your doorstep.

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