The American Symphony stateroom – a ship’s term – doesn’t accurately describe accommodations more befitting a mid-sized hotel room with more closet and dresser space than in my apartment. Flat-screen TV. Check. Vases of fresh flowers. Check. Private balcony. Check. Sumptuous robe. Check. It was so comfortable we almost hated leaving it. But ah, both food and excursions beckoned.

The gourmet meals were fortunately accessible by the half-portion, because some form of edibles is available round-the-clock. There are more snacks accessible in multiple lounges than in your neighborhood 7-11. Return from an excursion – big basket of candy welcomes you back. Enter your room only to find a delicious pastry on your dresser. Warm cookies show up every day at 10 and 3. And a menu separate from the dining room is available from 6:30 a.m. to 5 in the Sky Lounge. Of course, there is a daily cocktail hour with hors d’oeuvres preceding dinner. Heaven forbid you should go to dinner actually hungry, not that that seemed to hinder anyone… Not exactly a spa vacation. Yes, there is a fitness room but as one crew member said, “It’s the cleanest room on board!”

I’m accustomed to complimentary wine and beer available at meals but here all manner of alcohol is available all day. Being a Fireball drinker, that’s a real boon. And Madison guarded my bottle with loving care, transporting it from lounge to lounge as necessary. And you gotta love a cruise that offers Baileys with your morning coffee! If you’re a teetotaler, this may not be the cruise for you. The “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere rule” does not even begin to apply. Bloody Mary’s abound in the morning and the 3 o’clock lecture features a rum punch.

And with all of this, tipping is discouraged. Several times my husband and I said to each other: “Why in the world would every crew member be so accommodating and gracious when they’re not even getting tipped?” A very unexpected cruise benefit. Plus there’s free laundry…. Oh, and did I mention, airfare is included?

At the introductory meeting, cruise director Christian, describing all the on-board activities and shore excursions available, used the word “enrichment” about five times during the half-hour presentation.

Multiple excursions are offered daily from walking tours of the different cities to visits to a myriad of museums, historic homes, national parks, gardens, multiple plantations, cultural outings, brew and view tours, local river explorations and outdoor adventures. Onboard there are daily lectures, interactive games galore, guest speakers, music and multiple places to just get away from it all in which to drink, read, isolate, socialize or just ponder life.

Every night there is entertainment from ’50s and ’60s sing-alongs (alas, that may indicate the age of the majority of clientele…), blues band, C&W combos, comedians, and more.

Sample game? Two Truths and a Lie. Guests fill out a form listing two truths about themselves and a falsehood. The rest of the guests vote on which is the lie. Some of the interesting offerings: Former Rose Bowl Queen; Exotic Dancer in College; Met Buzz Aldrin and Alan Shepherd; Married 2 ½ times; Had a starring role in 16 adult films; Lives in Brooklyn (okay, not ALL the answers evoked interest….). And of course, much of the fun lay in discovering just what was true and what was not. Not always predicable!

You can be as social or anti- as you like. There’s the option at every meal to dine alone or with others but everyone was friendly and welcoming, interesting and well-traveled. And, of course, you can do as much or as little as you like. The al fresco upper deck is a delightful place to read or just watch the river world pass by. And if you’re anything of a Civil War buff, this trip resembles heaven – every town involves a Civil War Museum of some type, Civil War history, military encampments, Civil War forts – and once back on the boat? An assortment of lectures on Civil War history. But other options prevail with more wide appeal.

For me, this was the most appealing: The Great River Outdoor Adventure. Driving the ATV around the Double C Ranch seemed innocuous enough at first (a far cry from the Antebellum homes and Civil War museums in which I’d spent most of my time). We initially saw a herd of cows and calves cavorting the countryside, forming a very close welcoming committee – literally as we were able pet them from the vehicle. I tried to imagine what kind of treat you’d give to a 1000-pound bull to get him to French Kiss an ATV driver.

Next stop: an archery range. After a quick lesson, we got to test our skill. I felt a tremendous sense of accomplishment as I killed that bear – three hits out of three. We also stopped to pet Fred, a very imposing 1700-pound Brahma bull. He’s friendly, we were told, although the woman who got a tad more than nudged in the crotch was none too happy. Then onto fly fishing and tomahawk throwing. Not my forte. I wanted to go back to the archery range.

Initial summary of the ATV adventure: I couldn’t read the notes I took. Then I couldn’t even take any. Then Mackenzie instructed us all to put the ATV into 4WD – and we started flying over treacherous terrain, through deep mud puddles, up and down steep ravines. At this point just surviving the ride was the goal – but what an exhilarating experience! Now maybe tomahawks, bows and arrows and ATVs were products of the Civil War, but I doubt it!

Another non-Civil War getaway? The Cajun Swamp Pride Tour. Instructions ahead of time? If your hat or phone falls into water, don’t retrieve it. No one needed to be reminded twice as the waters were strewn with alligators. And why not? The captain feeds them marshmallows from the boat. Why marshmallows? Don’t ask.

We also stopped to view a herd of wild pigs on the shore – as well as an array of adorable raccoons, rewarded for showing up when called with some corn meal. Alligators obligingly ate their marshmallows alongside. It was almost more zoo-like than wild life encounters until the captain opened a gate leading to a perch attached to the boat – and from there fed the alligators chicken for which he encouraged them to jump up out of the water to retrieve, which they willingly did…. Also menacingly. I couldn’t help but wonder if anyone else on board knew how to steer the boat….

For more information, visit Lower Mississippi Cruise.

The post Mississippi River Cruise: Where the Ship Experience Rivals the Itinerary appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Despite his dream of building a capital city along the banks of the Potomac River and unlike the real estate cliché “George Washington slept here,” America’s first president never once laid his head down on a pillow within the District of Columbia, aka Washington, DC. The closest he ever got was a good night’s sleep at his homestead in nearby Mount Vernon, VA.

Some 228 years later, our nation’s capital welcomes more than 22 million visitors a year. A world-class city embedded with a vibrant history, spectacular monuments, outstanding museums, plentiful parks, lush gardens and exceptional chef-driven cuisine, Washington, DC is well worth a visit. But, don’t just take my word for it, join me as I take the lens cap off and document this monumental city originally planned by Pierre L’Enfant.

For starters, there’s the Smithsonian Institution, a collection of 19 massive, artifacts-filled museums and galleries and the National Zoo, many standing shoulder-to-shoulder on either side of the two-mile long National Mall, “America’s front yard.” Art, history — natural and chronicled — science, and red-white-and-blue ingenuity to rocket into space, are all on display inside these titanic buildings. And, the best part? Entry is absolutely free for we, the people.

Bookending the Mall is the Capitol Building at the eastern end, where the legislative branches of government apply their checks and balances atop old Jenkins’ Hill, and the awe-inspiring Lincoln Memorial, where Honest Abe sits in deep contemplation at the western edge along the banks of the Potomac. And, smack dab in the middle of it all stands the Washington Monument, a 555-foot marble obelisk — the tallest structure in the District — honoring the “Father of His Country” that’s encircled by 56 American flags, one for each state along with the five territories and the District of Columbia.

Our historical walk around the Mall also includes a bevy of memorials: Jefferson, Vietnam and Korean War Veterans, Martin Luther King, Jr., FDR and World War II. Join the lengthy queue to get inside the National Archives to view John Hancock’s John Hancock on the Declaration of Independence, along with the Constitution of the United States and the Bill of Rights. Book way in advance for access to the National Museum of African American History and Culture, the newest venue on the Mall. Spend an entire day exploring the myriad of exhibitions at the National Galleries of Art and Portrait. Reach for the sky and the stars beyond at the National Air and Space Museum. And, stop long enough to smell the plant life inside the US Botanic Garden.

The United States is a cultural melting pot and its capital reflects the nation’s sea-to-shining-sea international roots. Heavily influenced by Egyptian, Greek, Roman, medieval European and 19th-century French architecture, wherever you look, especially up, you’ll see an abundance of tall columns, massive domes and the occasional flying buttress. From the White House to the U.S. Capitol, from the Washington Monument to the Library of Congress, from Union Station to the National Cathedral, a simple stroll around architecturally impressive DC alone is well worth the airfare. Right?

The District’s a showcase of American performance arts and is home to such iconic venues as the National Theatre and the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts.

In the early 20^th century, jazz music had a dizzying effect here as DC natives, like Duke Ellington, played the night away on stages up and down famed U Street. Years later, homegrown go-go, a blend of funk, R&B and hip-hop set the beat around clubs and out on the street.

And, let’s not forget that John Philip Souza came marching down Pennsylvania Avenue at the dawn of the 1900s leading the Marine Corps Band, the oldest musical group in the US. Today, Souza’s iconic march music is one of the highlights at the annual A Capitol Fourth, the national Independence Day celebration that unfolds at twilight on the West Lawn of Capitol Hill.

The White House, Congress and the Supreme Court, the three pillars of the US government, all punch their clocks here, while the Pentagon, the State Department, the World Bank and embassies from almost every corner of the globe float around their orbit. Power, those that carry it and those eager to wrestle it away, is why DC emits such a 24/7/365 buzz. Can you feel it?

Washingtonians, all 700,000+ of them, know full well the difference between the city itself and the District of Columbia, aka “inside the beltway.”

Beyond the high profile attractions, the politics, the leaks, the lobbying and the “fake news,” the city, all 68 square miles of it, is made up of small, distinctive neighborhoods where normal folk live and breathe. Here, restaurants, cafes, bars and nightclubs are hopping; Ubers are hailed and bicycles and electric scooters are shared via smartphone apps, and one of the cleanest metro systems in the world moves the populace quickly; and, where friends share a laugh, like my DC-based fam, on colorful row-house front porches or on terraces atop apartment complexes with fab views of their fair city spread out below.

While we’re here, let’s grab some cutlery and tuck in to one of the country’s hottest food scenes. The District is a can’t-miss epicurean destination touted by the likes of Bon Appétit, the Michelin Guide and Zagat, and where celebrity chefs like José Andrés, Tim Ma and Marjorie Meek-Bradley conjure up their culinary wizardry.

From food magazine-worthy dishes created and plated at coveted tables around Penn Quarter, to local favorite half-smokes served at a 24-hour diner up in Adams Morgan, to one-stop grazing at foodie mecca Union Market, just about every kitchen on the planet is represented within DC.

Regardless of your crave, one thing’s for certain: it’s all delectable no matter where you dine. Uh, I’ll have the Maryland crab cake sandwich topped with crispy bacon, please.

With loads of attractions and activities for every visitor, budget-minded and value-added, Washington, DC is teeming with a good-time vibe. Affording unmatched free access to museums, monuments and memorials and one-of-a-kind events, like the National Cherry Blossom Festival, not to mention five pro sports teams — Redskins, Nationals, Wizards, Capitals and DC United — the District is in a class all by itself.

Washington, DC, America’s monumental city that our first commander-in-chief envisioned, is all grown up now. I’m just happy that you let me show you around.

The post Washington, DC: America’s Monumental City appeared first on Traveling Archive.

The hit Canadian TV series Our City Tonight interviews T-Boy Editor Ed Boitano

• T-Boy Society of Film, Travel & Music: Travel Nightmares: Travel Lessons Learned
• Attention Seniors 65+! San Diego Zoo is free the whole month of February 2023.
• Twenty-three minutes of New Orleans – By filmmaker Jay Bogas
• T-Boy Society of Film, Travel & Music: T-Boy Society of Film and Music’s Favorite Museums
• The 10 problems that could ruin your 2023 holiday. (telegraph.co.uk)
• T-Boy Society of Film, Travel & Music: Favorite State for a Food  Experience
• Lithuania’s Hill of the Crosses – By filmmaker Captain Ron Stowe
• Walt Mundkowsky: Time Capsule Cinema: Petulia – (Traveling Boy)
• Bearing Witness: Selected Works by Chiura Obata – (southernthing.com)

The post See the World in February with Traveling Boy appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Until recently Britain was portrayed as a culinary wasteland, home to overcooked, boring food and an abundance of uninspired bland chefs. There were only a few tasty exceptions to their miserable repertoire — namely, fish ‘n’ chips, tea, beer and dessert. In this decade, respected food critics have reversed the hype, citing a virtual renaissance in the London food scene — raving about the hot new London chefs, touting its incredibly diverse restaurants, in fact anointing London as the Crown Jewel of European cuisine… London, London, LONDON! !!

The real question is… what happens when you leave the city? Are you back in a world of sub par dining? Is the rest of the country still an abyss of mushy vegetables and lumps of gray indistinguishable meat?

Well the answer is a resounding NO! Today the English countryside offers some of the most consistently appetizing, delightfully satisfying FRESH fare a traveler could hope for. The vast majority of local pubs, inns and bed & breakfasts scattered across Britain boast menus of substantial variety and above-average quality.

But increasingly, fresh ingredients are a rarity in restaurant food, especially for us nomads on the road. Perhaps because Britain is an island, still largely agricultural outside of London proper, many products are locally grown. Whether or not that’s the reason, the fact is that the base ingredients used by English locals have a farmer’s market level of quality and no long-standing relationship with plastic containers, chemicals or freezers to interfere with natural taste. Fruits and greens are crisp and just picked from the garden, home baked breads and pastries are noticeably textured, fish tastes barely plucked from the sea, cheeses creamy, nutty or tangy, but bursting with flavor-the offerings vary, but the sum total of these parts is nothing short of sublime.

Although I’ve had occasion to visit the U.K. many times over the years, this past summer I traipsed across the island with a twenty-something city crowd visiting for the very first time. Our route initially curved south through the small villages of Sussex and Kent, amidst cascading bouquets of flowering vines, hollyhocks, 7-foot wide roads and ancient castles. Then on west to Cornwall with its uniquely quaint fishing villages dotting the shoreline and its famously breathtaking coastal scenery.

I finally got a taste of real Cornish flapjacks — yes, they’re different — soft, dense and chewy, these porridge oat bars were totally addictive and surprisingly decadent for just three ingredients: 6 oz. Demerarer sugar, 6 oz. soft tub margarine (or butter), melted together with just 8 oz. of oatmeal, topped with mini egg pieces, (!) then baked for 30 minutes.

Along the way we happily ate and drank to excess, routinely asking to partake of the warm and friendly specialties of the house. We sampled all the peasant staples: crispy fish ‘n chips, steak & mushroom and cheese & onion pies, dip-in egg cups, cock-a-leekie soup, Cornish pasties, bangers and mash, toad in the hole, shepherd’s pie, the ubiquitous ploughman’s lunch, fish cakes, bubble and squeak, Welsh rarebit, cheese straws, John Dory, and roast lamb with mint chutney, to name a few, followed by a never ending selection of desserts, such as shortbread, fruit trifle, spicy gingerbread, sticky toffee and bread & butter pudding, cream cakes, pies and custards galore. Of course most establishments offered many less traditional options as well, reflecting ethnic trends that are not restricted to the city.

And oh, the English beer… we mustn’t forget the libations! An incredible array of our favorite ale styles — mild, bitter, best bitter, porter, stout, barley wine — not to mention hard ciders, lagers and lime and shandies. All luscious and at the proper temperature, of course. We seriously almost lost some of our party permanently to the small village of in St Just, after sampling the finest, creamiest hand pumped Real Ale imaginable in the (only) local pub. I could retire here based on the beer alone, plus there were young folks inside as well.

But that was when, and this is now: Jonny McFadden, who runs the Star Inn in St Just, Cornwall, installed an electric fence in front of the pub’s bar for social distancing purposes. “We have had enough of people doing as they pleased and ignoring social-distancing guidelines,” said McFadden. “The fence had been placed there to, ahem, shock locals into behaving. To protect staff and myself and my customers you have to put in the meter [distancing] rule,” he said. Asked how customers reacted to the innovation, McFadden said, “It was quite comical. We’re in a rural area, so everybody knows what an electric fence is. I got a little sign too on it — ‘electric, danger.'”

Inevitably, in the course of our sampling, we made friends of all ages. A gentle couple in Lewes who found my oh-so-youthful companions most entertaining invited us into their home to share a traditional tea. They had a lovely manor estate complete with a croquet lawn, a wishing well and a glorious tended garden too pretty for words. The fellow next door owned homing pigeons and about 60 of them dotted his roof.

Once in Looe, we enjoyed an incredibly picturesque 180 degree view of the harbor from our bedroom window at the Deganwy Hotel perched on the hill overlooking the harbor, only a hundred yards or so walk from the station. Our luck held out even at the beach, which was sandy, sunlit and full of mostly British tourists. After sunning, we consumed a host of Cornish pasties, mostly sold as take-out. Each shop seemed to have their own slant on construction and fillings, offering us no choice but to sample them all. We ate potato and lamb and mushroom and onion and cheddar and beef and olive and chicken. A few were hefty with dough similar to a calzone; the majority were rich and flaky with a lot of shortening in the crust.

Looe itself proved to be a quaint, quiet fishing village with lovely pubs and lots of souvenir shops, bustling but not overrun with curious visitors. By far it’s best attribute, though, was its starting point for the 5-mile mostly cliff-side Looe to Polperro Walk, finishing at the next pretty fishing village up the coast. Full of incredible vistas, hauntingly beautiful rolling hills, a vivid assortment of flora and fauna and the constant sights, smells and sounds of the sea below you, it is an unforgettable sensory experience. While much of the hike was leisurely, some of the final uphill stretches were fairly aerobic, a good thing considering the delectable Cornish Clotted Ice Creams available in the teeny Talland bay shortly before its Polperro end. Without a doubt, this coastal walk was the stunning highlight of our trip.

Our hike ended on a winding street which brought us quietly down into the picturesque fishing village of Polperro. As in Looe, clusters of cottages perch on steep slopes overlooking the boats in the harbor. Narrow cobblestone streets abound in between tightly spaced homes, gurgling waterways and footbridges, garden window boxes and brightly colored flowers. The high street is tiny, so a bit crowded, but charming. Working our way slowly up the main street incline to the bus stop, we were stopped by some friendly ladies at a church yard sale. Comically, there we purchased all sorts of unique treasures, new and old, to bring back to the States… and a few homemade flapjacks for the ride home.

Getting There

If you haven’t yet toured the British countryside, here are my tips for sights and flavors you will want to sample along the way, and several ways to accomplish your travel.

TIP: Lunch is usually served from noon to 3 p.m.; the time of day to enjoy your large meal of the day throughout Britain. Prices are generally less, portions are generous — you will save a considerable amount of your travel budget by eating more at mid-day and enjoying a light meal, say soup and sandwich or salad for supper.

TIP: You can generally tell if you are drinking Real Ale if it is served using a hand pump.

TIP: Some B&Bs will help arrange for car and/or car and driver hire for day trips about the area. B&B owners are also a wealth of information on local sights, tours and best meal options. Through photos and email, you can oft-times narrow down your choices and book the best establishment for your needs well in advance. This gives you time to establish a relationship and along with it, maximum planning ability and control over your travel budget.

TIP: One aspect of traveling the British countryside that truly cannot be missed is the walking tour. Whether initially you get where you’re going by train, car or bus, the most wonderful way to truly capture the essence of England is on foot. There are a mind-boggling 630 miles of superb walks promising “the ever present sense of the sea” just on the southwest coast alone… and that comprises only one of fifteen National Trails in England and Wales.

Audrey’s Recipe for Cornish Pasties
(makes 3 large)

Processor Dough

• 2 cups flour
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1-tablespoon sugar
• 1 stick cold butter (or margarine or combination)
  cut up
• 1 egg, separated (yolk used in dough, white as glaze)
• 5 tablespoons ice water
• 1 Tablespoon milk (for wash)

Filling

• 2-3 medium potatoes, chopped in ½ inch cubes
  (about 2 ½ cups)
• 2-3 medium carrots, chopped in 3/8 inch pieces
  (about 1 ¾ cups)
• 1 med. large onion, diced ¼ inch (about 1 cup)
• 2 celery stalks, leaves okay, diced ¼ inch
  (about ½ cup)
• 1 pound ground beef or turkey (about 2 cups)
• 1-oz. packet beef au jus (or turkey) gravy mix or seasonings to taste
  (*plus additional packet for gravy)

Gravy

• Reserved vegetable water
• 1 Tablespoon flour or cornstarch (optional)
• 1 packet au jus (or turkey) gravy mix

For the dough: Put the first four ingredients in an attached food processor bowl and process with a steel blade until the consistency of coarse meal (no big lumps). Add the egg yolk, and while the processor is running, add your ice water one tablespoon at a time, stopping as soon as the dough begins to clump. Process only until it forms a loose ball. Divide the dough into three pieces. Gently form each piece into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature. If the kitchen is too hot, put the dough in the refrigerator while you make the filling.

For the filling: Wash and scrub vegetables; there’s no need to peel. Place the cut up vegetables in a roomy pot. Add only enough water to cover and boil gently about four minutes until partially cooked. Reserve (drain and save) the boiled vegetable water for the gravy, increasing both the flavor and vitamin content of your meal. Next, saute the ground beef or turkey until cooked through. Don’t indiscriminately discard juices, but do skim any excessive grease if using a high fat ground. Add to the meat one package of gravy mix (I prefer au jus even with ground turkey) or season to taste with up to one teaspoon bouillon and a sprinkling of onion and garlic powder. Add the vegetables and briefly mix together; set aside.

Constructing the pasties: Lightly flour a flexible plastic mat or cutting board and roll out one dough ball into a round-ended oval measuring approximately 10 x 7 inches and about 1/8 inch thick. Carefully transfer the dough to an outside corner edge of a large baking tray, letting one long half of your oval dough hang over the side (see photo). You will not be able to move the pasty once filling is added. Mound a generous, tall amount of filling on the supported half of the dough, leaving a ¾ inch margin around the edge. Then fold over the other half on top to resemble a filled-in letter “D”. Press the edges together, then fold the outer edge in on top of itself again and press to seal shut. Repeat with remaining dough balls. If any holes or tears result, just press the dough together to repair. Make a 1-inch slit in the top of each pasty for steam to escape. Moisten the top of each pasty with a little milk before placing in the oven, and brush with beaten egg white about 10 minutes before done. This will keep your pasty crust soft and add a lovely glazed patina. Bake at 375 degrees a total of 25 – 30 minutes.

Gravy: Use the reserved vegetable water as the liquid called for in your gravy mix. Au jus style can be thickened slightly by adding a little flour or cornstarch to the dry mix and making a smooth paste before gradually adding the vegetable water. Stir or whisk frequently while cooking to prevent sticking.

TIPS:

• Any favorite pie crust recipe can be substituted for the pasty dough. Even (horrors!) store-bought pre-made pie crust works fine. Either way, the milk and egg wash steps will enhance your results.
• Kids love a happy face or other fun design on top of their pasty. For finicky children, cook the potatoes, carrots, onion and celery six minutes and smash together to achieve a more uniform texture (i.e., hide the veggies).
• If you want to make little pasties instead of larger ones, you will need almost twice the amount of dough (up to 2 recipes, see below) for the same amount of filling. Baking time may need to be reduced to as little as 20 minutes.
• Anytime you are doubling or otherwise increasing the dough recipe for the pasty crust, make sure to process only one 2-cup recipe at a time for optimum results. Larger quantities will not process as quickly or uniformly and your crust may end up tough and overworked.
• Pasties freeze well and reheat without major repercussions in the microwave.

There are no rules as to quantities or proportions with pasties. You can put in them what you like and have on hand, change the ratio of meat to veggies, etc.; do what you will. Any leftover meat or poultry, as long as it is not too dry, makes a fabulous pasty.

The post English Countryside: Last Year’s Summer Vacation appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Iligan City is one of the 10 largest cities in the Philippines. Its history goes back to the Pre-Spanish colonial era. With 300 years under Spain, it is no wonder that the majority of the population is Roman Catholic.

Because of its central location, the city was invaded by the Japanese forces in 1942. I remember my grandmother’s story about the war. My great grandfather had all the women in the family gathered in the living room and he had drawn out his bolo (a hacking sword). The Japanese had a reputation of torture and rape and my great grandfather was ready to slaughter his own children first rather than give them up to the Japanese. Fortunately, the house was bypassed and they all lived to face another day.

There was another story of the town folk who gathered inside the church praying because the Japanese were going to bomb the city. They heard the planes roaring above them but nothing happened. No bombs were dropped. Years later one of the Japanese pilots remembered that day. He said their maps indicated they were above the city but they could not see any buildings. Was it a miracle? What do you think?

Iligan of my youth

Iligan is known for many things but for me, this is the home of my ancestors. My family would escape the metropolitan city of Greater Manila (where we lived in my youth) and spend our summer vacations here. I remember taking two day journeys by boat from Manila in the north and Iligan in the south. Half of the boat was cargo and the other half were passengers. We would rent a sardine cabin and, if not available, we would sleep barrack-style in cots on the second deck and watch the waves and the flying fishes and dolphins swim alongside. Usually we would get in the boat by mid-afternoon but the cargo would take forever to load and in the midst of the clamor of the stevedores/longshoremen and the noisy cranes, we would fall asleep. In the morning we would wake up to the deafening hum of the ship’s diesel engine in the middle of the Sibuyan Sea.

In my grandmother’s town, I remember swimming with the colorful marine life that danced in the crystal clear water and playing with the hermit crabs in the pristine black sandy beaches. Population was still sparse and gravel pathways to the different houses were clean and orderly — most probably patterned after the orderly American bases. Usually we would walk around the neighborhood wearing our rubber sandals but sometimes we would get a lift from the carabao (water buffalo) drawn sleds. Those days are gone. Alas, man had set in. There are other parts of the Philippines where nature is relatively untainted by modernity but not here in Iligan.

Getting there

Nowadays, it is much easier to travel by air. You have a choice of 2 airlines: Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific. I prefer Cebu Pacific. The fare from the Manila domestic airport to the Laguindingan Airport (the closest airport to Iligan) is about $50 for a 1.5 hour trip. Only one baggage (max. 44-60 lbs.) and one carry-on are allowed — otherwise you pay extra. Check the Cebu Pacific Airlines website for more details.

Face masks were encouraged but not mandatory. Delays are common and usually pile up at the end of the day. Often it is due to bad weather. The turbulence isn’t too bad up in the air but the pilot circles around in a holding pattern until he sees an opening in the clouds making it safe to land.

From the airport it’s a long two hour drive to Iligan City if you travel by private vehicle. Four hours if you travel by bus. And if you do travel by bus, you need to have your ID and Covid health card ready or you can’t board the bus.

It is highly urbanized. In fact, there are 181 schools and 5 hospitals. Most of the year, there are rain drizzles. It can be muggy and hot in the morning and wet with heavy rainfall and lightning in the afternoon. The sun is up by six am and sunset comes at 7pm. Traveling through the countryside, I couldn’t help but notice so many shirtless men sitting outside their homes watching traffic whiz past while the women were sweeping the dust away and doing other housework. I guess the home is an Iligano male’s castle.

The language

Cebuano is the language of Southern Philippines and is the common talk of the Iliganos. Tagalog (the national language of the Philippines) and English are used to teach in some of the classrooms. To my surprise, a few of the local middle class even prefer conversing in English than Tagalog. They probably watch too many Hollywood movies. Many Filipinos have a colonial mentality. In other words, they are starry eyed by everything American — movies, the NBA (basketball is the favorite sport of the masses … tennis and golf for the super elite) and music. In fact, if you have western features, you can be a movie star … no talent required.

I had some of the local kids introduce themselves and then sing a song in Tagalog. I think the song is about unrequited love.

The People

Most Iliganos are fun-loving brown skinned because of their exposure to the sun. They have a mix of Malay and Chinese features although some mestizos (children of mixed marriages) can be spotted (mostly from the Spanish lineage). Most are slender and muscular but there are also those who are heavy set (due to large consumption of rice). The average height I would say is 5 feet and two inches.

Catholics comprise most of the population in Iligan but there has been an influx of Muslim refugees who escaped the war in nearby Marawi City on May, 2017 between the government forces and the local branch of ISIS. You can tell who the Muslims are by the veil coverings on their heads.

The Muslims are called Moros and they are a proud race. They have a history of war in their blood — you don’t want to mess with them because they are known to seek revenge. For the most part, both religions get along well. Many of the imported goods are sold by the Moros who import from nearby Borneo of Malaysia in the south whose population is predominantly Muslim. They are very enterprising.

Food glorious food

Almost everywhere you turn there is a carinderia (a small canteen). You find them in the mall in fast food chains like Jollibee, Inasal and Chow King that serve hamburgers, fried chicken and noodles. I was surprised not to see any McDonalds franchise … I think the local competition with their local flavors drove them out of town. You can also find food along the major and minor streets. Rice is more common than bread. Local bread doesn’t taste as good as US bread. I think it has something to do with the flour and the water.

Speaking of water. DO NOT drink tap water. Any water you put in your mouth should be bottled water. That includes water to brush your teeth and gargle. Tap water is for washing your hands and taking a bath. Water is plentiful since Iligan is near the beach and is near several water falls. Water mostly come from deep wells. I think each establishment and home pump their own water. Many poorer communities pump water by hand.

The pace of life can be very slow. As long as you have a roof over your head you can live off the fat of the land and sea. Iligan Bay is rich with creatures of the salty sea. If you’re into sashimi, you’ll love it here. A regular sized Tuna of about 2 feet length costs a mere $7 a kilo. (BTW, the Philippine uses the metric system in most instances). Usually, you can select the part of the fish you want for the same price. The locals don’t appreciate this Japanese delicacy because they don’t understand the fascination for wasabi. Iliganos don’t really like spicy hot food. The favorite fish preparation of the locals is “daing” (pronounced “Da – Eeng”) which is essentially fried salted dried fish dipped in cane vinegar. Chicken is mass produced and inexpensive. Tell the butcher how you intend to prepare the meat and they will gladly slice it to your liking. Fresh milk is very rare. Not too many cows here.

A variety of tropical vegetable make interesting soup concoctions. They have eggplant, string beans, Chinese spinach, petchay (a local bok choy), squash, sweet potato and tomato. Champagne mango is cheap here at $4 a kilo. Spices like garlic, ginger, onion, pepper, fish sauce, soy sauce and calamansi are common. Coconut is also plentiful and they turn it into vinegar, wine, milk, ice cream, toppings for bibinka (a local steamed pastry) and candy. My favorite is simply partially frozen fresh pure coconut juice.

Iligan boasts of its own unique flavorful concoctions such as Pinakurat (a unique vinegar with lots of special spices), Piyaya de Iligan (some sort of pancake filled with ube, chocolate, peanuts, durian, cheese and other different flavors). Palapa (an asian cuisine made of onions, shutts and hot spices).

There are some fruits that look alike outside but are completely different like jackfruit and durian. Another set of similar fruits are makopa, marang and tambis that come in shades of pink, white to green. There are star apples and star fruit (balimbing). Santol and mangosteen are strange fruits whose inner skin remind me of pears but whose seeds (the sweet part) look like cotton balls. There are cherry-looking fruits that are called aratilis. Atis is a fruit that looks like a soft dark green grenade … open it up and you see several black seeds covered with white sweet flesh.

Energy

Most kitchens (residential and commercial) use gas tanks. Transporting full tanks and exchanging empty tanks is an age old practice. There are no cooking gas lines here like they have in the U.S.

Electricity is constant since one of the main sources of electricity comes from the Maria Christina Falls. Especially during the rainy season, this powerful waterfall supplies hydroelectricity to other parts of the country. The only reason why there might be an occasional shutdown would be due to supply preference to industrial factories.

Wish I could say the same about the internet. The service is sporadic and, even if you had fiber optics installed, the most you can get is 75 MB … usually it hovers around half of that. Blame it on the monopoly of PLDT (the Philippine Long Distance Company) for land lines and internet feeds. It costs $26 per month. With cell phones, there are several satellite providers to choose from that allow you to use your cell phone on the go – Globe, Smart, TM and Dito. A few years ago, carriers used to sell data- minutes but with so many competing players it has been simplified to $2 a week for unlimited usage. To be honest, I still don’t know how to call a local number. There are area codes, international codes and local numbers that you need to juggle around to get the working combination. I gave up! I let the locals dial the number for me but even they don’t get it right.

Tourist Attractions

Iligan boasts of 23 waterfalls, 8 springs and 15 caves. Iligan is known as the City of Majestic Waterfalls. Some of them are the Maria Christina Falls, Tinago Falls, Poldo Falls, Dodiongan Falls, Limunsudan Falls, Mimbalot Falls, Kalubihon Falls, Dalipga Falls, Kamadahan Falls, Hindang Falls, Abaga Falls and many more. It has also has a lot of caves. If you want to go to any of these, you better put on your hiking boots.

Driving

It’s fascinating to watch how people drive. It’s a thrill of amusement park proportion. Most of the roads have at least 2 lanes on each side. Like America, the driving wheel is on the left side and traffic flows from the right side. But unlike the US, the inside lane is not the overtaking side. It is the outer lane at the edge of the road where you overtake. Why? Because the outside lane is where uncertainty lies. Driving on the left side and a car length away from the car in front, you can’t see what’s on the outside lane — if a vehicle is stalled there or a shanty is built there or the road suddenly ends. Frustratingly, slow moving vehicles like tricycles or scooters or heavy trucks refuse to drive on the outer lane because it would be harder for them to return to the fast lane if the road is blocked. I think there’s also this feeling of superiority … as if they’re saying “nya! nya! I may be slow but I’m still in front of you!”

People drive defensively and communicate with their horns. Two quick horns warn the other driver that you are coming through. One quick horn says “I heard you.” One long horn is the internationally accepted shout to the other driver: “Bastard, get off the road!”

Iligan is a simple, typical Philippine city full of warm, friendly laid back English-speaking Filipinos. The standard of living is very affordable. It’s a relatively poor community judging from Western standards. It’s not the cleanest city for sure. Its economic potential has not yet peaked. Natural resources and a trained labor force are waiting for opportunities. As in my youth, it’s still a great place to escape from the stress of life.

The post Iligan City, Philippines: The Easy Life appeared first on Traveling Archive.

Often on a group press trip, civilians will address our team with, What is your favorite place to travel? It is a question that I would ask. Many fellow journalists would enthusiastically reply, New Zealand! Then followed by descriptions of its diversity: sweeping mountains and breathtaking fjords, temperate rainforests and golden-sand beaches, gigantic glaciers and boiling hot springs and unique Māori culture all packed into an accessible 103,798 square miles. And that is why this small island nation of 4.84 million people is on my Bucket List.  Plus, I’d like to shake hands with PM Jacinda Ardern.

But as the C-19 virus remains clear and present danger, I have little choice but to wait and wait and wait for my voyage to New Zealand to commence.

So, to temporarily satisfy my NZ fix, I traversed a few cooking books, recipes online, and a few friends’ words of remembrance, and transitioned them into my own, well, rather ‘unique’ hand. Certain vestiges of traditional Kiwiana dishes (another phrase for “uniquely New Zealand food”) remain popular throughout the country, such as fish and chips, meat pies, custard squares, pavlova, and others.

ANZAC Biscuits

These egg-free, oaty biscuits keep for extended periods and are still a sentimental Kiwi staple. They were created during the rationing of World War I to ship to soldiers serving far from home. Perhaps the most important public holiday in New Zealand — Australia  and many surrounding islands also commemorate it — April 25th is ANZAC Day, honoring the bravery and sacrifice of the proud members of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC).

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1 cup flour
• 1 cup sugar
• 3/4 cup dried coconut
• 4 oz. butter
• 2 Tablespoons Lyles Golden Syrup
• 2 Tablespoons boiling water
• 1 slightly rounded teaspoon baking soda

INSTRUCTIONS:
Combine oats, coconut, flour & sugar with whisk. Add melted butter and syrup. Stir soda into boiling water and add to oat mixture. Place one and a quarter inch balls of dough spaced 2 inches apart onto silicone-lined baking tray and bake at 325 degrees for 15-18 minutes. Carefully transfer to wire rack. Cool completely and store in airtight container.

Lamb Shanks with Garnish

INGREDIENTS

Lamb:

• 6 (six) 1-to 1 1/4-pound New Zealand lamb shanks
• flour for dredging
• Extra-virgin olive oil, about 2 Tablespoons
• 3 cups finely chopped onion
• 2 cups finely chopped carrots
• 1 heaping cup finely chopped celery
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 rounded tablespoon tomato paste
• 3 cups chicken broth (preferably low sodium)
• 1 1/2 cups dry New Zealand white wine
• 2 tablespoons minced flat leaf parsley
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves

Garnish:

• 2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
• 1 tablespoon lemon zest
• 1 small garlic clove, pressed
• 1 green onion (green part only) minced

Potatoes and Carrots:

• 1 1/2 pounds whole baby potatoes (approx. 1 1/2 inch diameter)
• 8 ounces slender baby carrots, trimmed & peeled
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Minced parsley for garnish

PREPARATION

Lamb Shanks:
Salt and pepper lamb shanks, lightly dredge with flour and add lamb to hot oil in large pot and cook on medium high heat until browned on all sides, turning often. Remove lamb and add onions, carrots, and celery to same pot, saute until soft. Stir in garlic and tomato paste. Once incorporated, add broth, wine, parsley, thyme, bay leaves and browned lamb. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook until lamb is very tender and begins to fall off bones, about 3 hours.

Discard bay leaves. Skim off fat and puree pan juices until almost smooth. Correct seasoning to taste.

Potatoes and Carrots:
Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Cook potatoes until tender, approximately 15 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon. Next cook carrots in same pot until tender, about 5 minutes, and remove. Cover and hold cooked vegetables at room temperature. When lamb is ready to serve, combine vegetables in large saucepan with butter and minced parsley and saute with salt and pepper until hot.

Mint Garnish:
Mix all ingredients in small bowl. (Can be made an hour ahead and chilled.)

To Serve:

Transfer lamb and pan juices to large deep platter surrounded by potatoes and carrots. Sprinkle garnish over lamb and serve.

Simply Delicious Kiwi Lime Sorbet

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 cup water
• 1/2 cup granulated white sugar
• 1/3 cup Lyles Golden syrup
• 4 ripe kiwifruits, peeled and quartered
• 1/3 cup lime juice
• 1 1/2 teaspoons grated lime zest

PREPARATION:

Place water, sugar, and Lyles syrup in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly for about 2 minutes, until all sugar granules are gone and the liquid is clear. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Process the kiwi and lime juice in a food processor until pureed. Pour into a bowl and stir in syrup and lime zest.

Transfer to ice cream maker or if one is not available, into a shallow metal (non-aluminum) pan, cover and freeze along with an empty bowl and your electric mixer beater attachments. After about an hour, scoop out the sorbet into the chilled bowl and whip with the chilled beaters until light and fluffy. Then place the bowl, covered, back in the freezer for another 2 hours or until firm enough to scoop and serve.

Pavlova with Lemon Curd and Berries

Pavlova is unquestionably the most popular (and S-W-E-E-T-E-S-T !!!) dessert in New Zealand, appearing on almost every dessert menu in every restaurant regardless of its ethnicity. I actually like this version because it’s paired with some tart counterparts — lemon curd and fresh fruit.

INGREDIENTS

Meringue:

• 1 cup superfine granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 3 large egg whites at room temperature
• 2 1/2 tablespoons cold water
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
• 1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar

Lemon Curd:

• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• Pinch of salt
• 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter
• 3 large egg yolks
• 1 Tablespoon lemon zest

Topping:

• 1 cup heavy cream, whipped
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 4 cups mixed berries

PREPARATION

Meringue:
Preheat oven to 300F with shelf in center position. Trace a 7-inch diameter circle on a sheet of parchment paper and place upside down on a baking sheet.

Whisk together superfine sugar and cornstarch in a small bowl. Beat whites with a pinch of salt using an electric mixer at medium speed until they hold soft peaks. Add water and beat again until whites hold soft peaks. Beat in sugar mixture very gradually (1 tblsp. at a time) on medium high speed and then continue to beat a minute or two once all mixed in. Add vinegar and vanilla and beat at high speed until meringue is glossy and stiff, at least 5 minutes.

Gently turn mixture out onto parchment, shape into 7 inch circle. Make edges slightly higher than center. Bake until an outer crust forms and meringue is pale golden, about 45 minutes. Inside will be soft. Turn oven off and prop door open slightly. Cool meringue in oven 1 hour.

Lemon curd:
While the meringue bakes, start the lemon curd by lightly beating yolks in a small bowl, set aside. In a heavy saucepan, stir together sugar, cornstarch and salt, then add lemon juice and butter. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, and cook, whisking constantly for 1 minute. Next whisk about 1/4 cup of the hot lemon mixture quickly into the small bowl of egg yolks, then whisk the entire egg mixture into contents of saucepan, stirring constantly to prevent curdling. Reduce to lowest possible heat and cook, whisking constantly, until curd is thickened, about 2 minutes. Do not allow mixture to boil. Transfer to a non-metallic bowl and stir in zest. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Assembly:
Beat heavy cream until stiff, add vanilla. Fold 1/4 cup of whipped cream into curd and gently incorporate. Spoon lemon curd onto cooled meringue and mound unsweetened berries on top. Serve remaining whipped cream on the side.

And How Could I Not Mention: Hangi

A traditional Māori hangi is a culinary experience that’s often prepared for large gatherings. Cooked in a deep underground hole with red-hot stones as its fuel, a hangi feast typically includes kumara (a sweet potato Māori had brought from Polynesia), pumpkin, chicken, pork, lamb, and seafood. The hangi’s smoky flavour (sorry, flavor) is an essential New Zealand culinary experience, and apparently a number of Māori tourist destinations, such as Te Puia and Mitai, offer a hangi meal for groups of visitors.

Lolly Cake

According to my friend, Ginny Boggs, every New Zealander has a lolly cake or lolly log on their birthday. It’s a traditional New Zealand sweet cake or confectionery which consists of lollies or fruit puffs (similar to soft, chewy marshmallows) that are added to a base mixture of malt biscuits with melted butter and condensed milk. The log is then rolled in coconut or powdered sugar and refrigerated. Ginny added that as a traditional dessert, lolly cake recipes are often altered and passed down through generations. They’re similar to fifteens, a type of tray bake confection, that’s popular in Northern Ireland. Yes, she’s been there, too.

The post Sample the Flavors of New Zealand appeared first on Traveling Archive.

As we dream of carefree, alluring days on the ocean’s shore, my thoughts naturally turn to fun things to nibble while at the beach.  I thought it would be fun to see what our T-Boy writers and readers’ selections might be from their ancestral homelands for the perfect and most traditional things to eat on the beach. Some I knew, and look forward to revisiting, while others I was absolutely clueless about, but will give them a try, sans digging a fire pit in my kitchen.

From Tom in Puglia, southeastern Italy:

Down in the Salento sub-region of Puglia in southeastern Italy, a real crowd pleaser is a signature dish of Cavatelli pasta with chickpeas and mussels along with a glass or two of chilled rosato wine. Mmm!

From Richard in Los Cabos, Mexico:

Los Cabos and pretty much throughout Mexico, most of the beaches are near or fronting resorts and even the more remote beaches you will find little mom and pop stands offering delight food. The food varies throughout Mexico but overall, on the beach a popular choice are the famed Mexican tacos, generally served open face, not the tight taco version you see in fast food restaurants.  You will notice with the surf singing, people will be enjoying a plate of tacos which can be as varied as wild flowers — chicken, beef and camaron (shrimp) tacos with fresh slices of avocado, sometimes mango, chopped jalapeno pepper, ginger-lime dressing, chips, salsa and a slice of lime on the side. Baja is also noted for the soft Mahi Mahi tacos tucked in a large flour tortilla.

From Alex in Peru:

Perhaps the most beloved dish throughout the coastal regions of Peru is ceviche. You’ll find it in restaurants and on the street in any coastal city, especially along the beach. The refreshing dish is made with a considerable amount of lime juice whose acidity helps cook the raw fish. The liquified juice from the ceviche, often sold separately with only a few pieces of fish, is traditionally referred to in Spanish as leche de tigre, tiger’s milk, because of its white color. While vendors may offer you either dish while you lounge on the beach, I’d recommend finding a reputable restaurant, especially if your stomach has not fully adjusted to the food in Peru.

From Annie in Ecuador:

Batidos (fruit smoothies), maracuyá was the best 🙂 We had coconut shrimp and patacones for lunch normally served with rice and ceviche (cold soup) served with plantain chips and popcorn. Also Corviche, a palm-sized, heavy bun made of fried or baked un-ripe plantain, flavored with pulvarized peanuts and often stuffed with albacore. They have a hushpuppy-like texture: crunchy on the outside and steamy inside.

From Sarah in Jamaica:

In Jamaica, the Patty is a popular snack. The Jamaican Patty is a baked or fried orangish flaky pocket filled with either curry chicken or traditional beef. On the beach, conch fritters, and if you’re lucky there’s a fish fry shack within walking distance. This was a good video about an authentic Jamaican beach Sunday.

From Harry in Nevis, St. Kitts & Nevis:

On Nevis, anything goes. Most beaches on the small island have luxury resorts that provide service. Lunch could be grilled fresh-caught lobster with a delicious organic salad, and of course, fries. And each resort and restaurant have their own special rum punch to accompany the lunch or snack. 🙂 You know, I did their 25th Anniversary commemorative cookbook when I was at Four Seasons Nevis. I’ve attached their recipe for Nevisian Spiny Lobster. The Chef’s has since moved to another resort.

From Weave in British Columbia, Canada:

Fish & chips are really popular here as take-out with tartar sauce and malt vinegar. Their fragrance ever so slightly steals some of the sea air. Moby Dick’s Restaurant is the most popular of all the fish and chip places in White Rock, British Columbia. Something interesting about Moby’s — they ALWAYS give you an extra piece of fish, it’s their thing. So, if you want two pieces just order a 1 pc. The beach is directly across the street.

From Robin in New England:

The clambake, also known as the New England clambake, is a traditional method of cooking seafood, such as lobster, mussels, crabs, soft-shell clams, and quahogs. The food is traditionally cooked by steaming the ingredients over layers of seaweed. The shellfish can be supplemented with vegetables, such as onions, carrots, and corn on the cob. Clambakes are usually held on festive occasions along the coast of New England.

A typical clambake begins with gathering seaweed at the shoreline; seaweed is an important adjunct to cooking the food. To keep the seaweed fresh, it is necessary to have a container large enough to hold both the seaweed and a fair amount of sea water.

Also important are several round medium-sized stones, or sometimes cannonballs, which are heated in the fire and used to re-radiate heat during the cooking process.

Like most other methods of steaming, a cover is necessary to allow the trapped heat and steam to thoroughly cook the food. Canvas tarps or potato sacks soaked in sea water are often used for this purpose.

Once the stones and seaweed have been collected, a fire pit is prepared. Some prefer to simply start a fire within the pit, while others line the edges with flat stones to provide support for a metal grill on which the stones may be placed.

The stones used for cooking are then placed in the center of the pit and a wood fire is started, although the exact method of heating the stones varies. The fire must burn until the stones are glowing hot. Care must be taken to ensure that the fire will burn out shortly after this optimal cooking temperature is achieved. The ashes are then swept off the stones and raked between them to form an insulating “bed.” A layer of wet seaweed is placed over the stones, followed by traditional regional foods such as steamers, mussels, quahogs, and lobsters. Side dishes usually include corn on the cob, potatoes, carrots, and onions. Alternating layers of seaweed and food are piled on top and the entire mound is covered with canvas that has been drenched in water to seal in the heat and prevent the canvas from burning. The food should steam for several hours.

From Raudi in Honduras:

A common beach snack is coconut bread. For lunch, sopa de caracol or fried fish and plantains.

From Emily in Hawaii:

• Spam musubi — We do not mess around when it comes to Spam — in fact Hawaiians consume 90% of it in the US. One slice of Spam laid onto a bed of rice and then carefully wrapped in a thin sheet of nori (seaweed) makes for a salty and hearty snack to pack in your bag.
• Poké — This is a Hawaiian staple and something Haoles (once defined as ‘newcomers,’ but now any person in Hawaii who is not of Polynesian heritage, generally a white person) shouldn’t even consider leaving the islands without trying at least once. It’s a famously popular go-to snack for going beach.
• Plate lunch — Inspired by Japan’s bento-style meal, a plate lunch usually comes with white rice, macaroni salad, and some type of main protein, making it a fantastic meal to fill you up during a day at the beach.
• Hurricane popcorn — Though you can easily pick up some store-bought hurricane popcorn on the way to the beach, it’s also very simple to make your own version at home. It’s a mix of buttered popcorn, some salty kakimochi arare, makes the perfect combination of flavors that will keep you going on a hot day.
• Malasadas — There are donuts and then there are mouthwatering, heavenly, custard-filled, life-changing malasadas, brought to us by Portuguese ranchers.

From Celia in Brazil:

The Açaí berry grows on palm trees in the Brazilian rainforests. The lifeblood of  Brazilian surfers, Açaí bowls are extremely popular in our beach towns, and have spread across the world to even metropolitan hubs because of our surfers. They’re delicious and to top it all off, they are extremely healthy.

Instructions:

1. Place the apple juice, banana, frozen berries, yogurt, honey and acai puree in the blender.
2. Blend until thoroughly combined and smooth.
3. Pour the smoothie into 2 deep bowls.
4. Arrange the desired toppings over your smoothie bowls and serve.

From Raoul in the Philippines:

Hmmm… grilled anything — fish, octopus, pork, shrimp and of course steamed white rice. Spicy Vinaigrette with chili and lots of garlic. Coconut juice, soda and beer. Tomatoes, mango (ripe and green) with bagoong (shrimp paste).

From Deb in Cinque Terre, Italy:

Eating reigned supreme in our five days at the Cinque Terre, and we decided to hike to each of the five hillside towns and have lunch. As of no surprise, our favorite Ligurian specialties were always found on the menu: Pesto all Genovese, focaccia (Genoa’s flat bread that predates pizza), fresh seafood, which included my first taste of real anchovies, and local chilled white wines. While strolling, food was still always on our mind, and we discovered many stands serving delectable street food in a cone. My husband and I never hesitated to choose a mix of fried seafood which included anchovies, fish, calamari, chips, and petite rectangles of baked bread, definitely to be eaten by the seaside.

The post Audrey’s Global Picks for Eats on the Beach appeared first on Traveling Archive.

What is Filipino food really? This was a question posed by a Filipino-American who grew up in New York as he traveled to his native Philippines with the late Anthony Bourdain in the latter’s food and travel show No Reservations. Growing up in America, this guy knew for sure what Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Korean cuisine is. But Filipino? As we somehow expected their travel to the Philippines did not yield any satisfactory answers. But in this case some questions are better left unanswered.

The Philippines’ 7,000 islands and multiple ethnicities have made its cuisine very diverse. Add the influence of the Malays, Spanish, Chinese, Indian, American and contemporary fusion trends and you will be as confused as that guy on No Reservations was. But such kind of influence has made many Filipino tourists and overseas workers adapt to foreign dishes with ease.

Perhaps, this is a major reason why Filipino cuisine is not so well-known internationally even if millions of Filipinos live and work outside their home country. Individuals of the Filipino diaspora tend to assimilate into the surrounding culture and try not to stand out; consequently Filipino food never went beyond their house kitchens and dining rooms. (That, however, is beginning to change as second and third generation Pinoys – an informal term for Filipinos – on a search for their ethnic identity are beginning to promote Pinoy cuisine where they are.)

Like any other cultural component, food is influenced by the geography of a place. Because the Philippines is a tropical archipelago lying in the apex of the Coral Triangle, seafood is a staple of local cuisine. Most of the seafood we have enjoyed at our beach and island-hopping forays are simply fried, grilled, broiled or steamed without much fancy but often very fresh (taken straight from or very close to the source). At other times they might be included in a soup dish (tinola or sinigang) or cooked in creamy coconut milk.

As with most cuisines of the world Filipino food is constantly evolving, having been shaped by history and by many unique and affluent cultures. Influences from China, India and Arabia are evident in Filipino food and culture due to economic trade over time. Influences from Spain (actually more from Mexico from which Spain ruled the Philippines) and America may be observed throughout the country’s colonial history.

Each region is known for specialty dishes and in many cases these are also the result of their geography and consequently their farm produce (or lack thereof).

Pampanga, home of great Filipino chefs, is known as the food capital of the country. There is a dizzying array of Kapampangan food available but the ones that have been adopted by the rest of the country include sisig, tocino, kare-kare, morcon and bringhe (kind of similar to biryani from South Asia).

There are exotic Kapampangan dishes too such as betute tugak (stuffed frog), camaru (deep fried, adobo-style mole crickets) and balo-balo or buro (mudfish fermented in rice) most of which may look intimidating to the fainthearted but which we did try and enjoyed.

Humba is a popular dish from the Visayas group of island provinces that has been adopted elsewhere in the country. The Visayas are known for fish dishes, no doubt because of the abundance of water in the region. But they have also developed their own specialties besides: the La Paz batchoy (a noodle soup made with pork offal, crushed pork cracklings, chicken stock, beef loin and round noodles), chicken inasal (grilled chicken marinated in a mixture of calamansi, pepper, coconut vinegar and annatto), and pansit molo (a pork dumpling soup using wonton wrappers) of the Ilonggos, a people group of the western Visayas.

Although you’ll find lechon or roasted pork all over the Philippines in different versions, Cebu province in the central Visayas is famous for their version of this dish. Lechon is a Spanish word that originally refers to a roasted suckling pig, hence the obvious Spanish influence. Often the preferred lechon – the lechon de leche – is a suckling pig whose meat is tender and whose skin is super crispy. How good is the Filipino lechon? Anthony Bourdain once said it’s the best pork he’s ever had. The “Lechon Diva,” Dedet de Leon, and her Truffle Rice Stuffed de Leche was awarded in London as the Tastiest Dish in Asia for 2015.

(See food vlogger Mark Wiens’ video of the Lechon Diva’s specialty lechon and other Pinoy dishes here, get an idea of what Filipino boodle food fight is and hear the crispy crack of the lechon skin as it is cut and devoured.)

From the Ilocos region in Luzon comes the mixed vegetable dish pinakbet, yet another crispy pork dish called bagnet and empanada. Some towns like Batac and Vigan have their own specialty empanada, a deep fried rice wrapper filled with various meat, egg and vegetable ingredients. (We should also mention the dried espada or beltfish from La Union that is so crispy good when fried that a Malaysian-American friend and mentor calls it the “Philippine bacon.”)

We’ve also come to enjoy the fresh vegetables and coffee beans from the mountain provinces of Northern Luzon and still try to get a supply whenever we can even if we no longer live there. Farther down south in Luzon, the abundance of coconuts in Bicol and the Bicolanos’ love of chili peppers have resulted in spicy dishes cooked in coconut milk such as laing. The Bicol Express, originally from the Malate district of Manila, is inspired by Bicolano cuisine. This stew is made from chili peppers, coconut milk, shrimp paste, pork, ginger, garlic and onions.

Mindanao, because it is closest to Indonesia and Malaysia, shares a lot in common with the culture and cuisine of these countries. The rich, pungent-smelling, fleshy durian from Davao and nearby provinces is a favorite of ours. And then of course, the inihaw na panga ng tuna (grilled yellowfin tuna jaw) is something that we always try to get every time we visit Davao, that is until we became plant-based eaters. In the past Visayan settlers have migrated here bringing with them their cuisine which has evolved over time to fuse with local fare. The food of our Muslim countrymen in western Mindanao though is something we still have to try.

Finally no one talks about Pinoy food without mentioning the internationally famous (or infamous) balut, originally from Leo’s hometown of Pateros. A not-so-well known fact is that this fertilized developing duck egg embryo (boiled before consuming) has its beginnings from China. Leo’s Chinese ancestors were said to have brought it with them to the country sometime in the 18^th century. After some more research we later discovered that while balut originated from Pateros, its creation was accidental. A Chinese immigrant named Lao Chuy who had married a Filipina settled in Pateros in the 18^th century. While trying to hatch duck eggs by heating them over charcoal, he ended up cooking them instead. When he tried them he found the cooked embryo delicious and started to produce and sell them. The original balut soon became a hit among locals. Surprisingly most Chinese-Filipinos never became fond of the balut. It is not unique to the country, however. There are similar eggs in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia which we encountered during our visits to these countries.

Our travels are not just about enjoying the beauty of the places we visit. Even when just traveling to other places in the Philippines we have always appreciated and relished the diversity of the people, their culture and their cuisine – all of which contribute to the richness of our travel experiences.

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In fall, 2019, I set out for the West Village in a monsoon. It was the last night of a small, culturally significant exhibit that I wanted to catch. At the designated address, I walked into a darkened courtyard, seemingly the patio of a shuttered restaurant on the far side of the enclosure, certainly not a gallery. More perplexingly, the doors to the eatery were locked. I looked at the address again, walked back out to the street, hunted for the building number, scratched my head, and plunged into the shadowy patio again. Where the heck was this elusive exhibit? Aha! I spied a doorway, kitty-corner, and when I opened the door, I figuratively tumbled through the looking glass, into the gallery!

Well, expect the reverse prelude to your dining experience at Frevo, (a Portuguese word meaning to boil, simmer, seethe), and, indeed, this boite percolates with appetizing, mouthwatering offerings. You’ll hit the proverbial jackpot if you can score a reservation here (the restaurant serves dinner only, see below), as The New York Times gave it two stars, when it opened in spring, 2019. Be forewarned to expect an experience that is the polar opposite of my autumnal outing, when I went from a barely lit restaurant into an art gallery.

At 48 West 8th Street, you’ll commence your evening in a jewel box of an art gallery. Barely six paintings hang on the white plaster and red-brick walls. The brightly lit space is no larger than 14′ x 18′. This is a restaurant? Here, a gracious young woman will greet you when you query, “I was looking for Frevo. I’m not sure I’m in the right place.” “Yes,” she’ll retort. “You’re here!” But, you’ll wonder, just where is the restaurant? Well, voila! An outsize canvas, hinged to the wall, swings away, and there you are, in the entryway of Frevo. Glide through the doorway and into the atmospherically lit, intimate dining room, and experience the transformation.

Frevo is an unusual restaurant, in that it seats a mere (but, certainly fortunate) 18 diners at a long, bar-style counter; there is a chef’s table in the corner, accommodating up to six. (COVID restrictions are enforced, so, at present only 10 may dine at the counter.) I was wondering just how could someone truly relax sitting on a bar stool long enough to appreciate a multi-course, haute cuisine meal? However, rest assured, the charcoal-gray, upholstered stools have seat backs, and are extremely comfortable. During non-COVID times, Frevo has two seatings, each with a slightly flexible window for arrival; with the dining times staggered, there is no orchestrated banquet-style service, where everyone is presented each course in an assembly line, as they would be at a banquet for 500 at a wedding, say. (During this COVID-altered time warp, the restaurant has changed its policies, to include one seating weekdays, and two seatings, weekends; see the info below.)

Seated at the bar, you face the work counter where the kitchen staff of four (sous chef, pastry chef, and two line cooks) in long white aprons are busy getting toothsome meals prepared and plated. They do this seamlessly, quietly, like ninjas. I swear, I never even saw an open flame, and I’d testify in court that there isn’t one! There is, indeed, a tiny kitchen in the back netherworld of the restaurant, but it is used, at least during meal service, for dishwashing, and earlier in the day, for prep. All the action, intriguingly, takes place right in front of you, yet you do not see it happening. A black-cloaked busman removes plates and restores flatware magically. (And, a propos flatware, the gorgeous dinner knives are distinctively unique, and each is perched on a cross-section of polished bone, so that the utensil stands at attention.) Two maître d’s do the more serious menu consulting with diners, in case you don’t or can’t eat one of the courses. (There are always substitutions for particular courses for those who have dietary restrictions—as in, “I can’t eat oysters,” or some such—although during this altered time, Frevo cannot accommodate a vegan, vegetarian, or lactose-free diet for its multi-course meal.)

Inspired by classic French cuisine, Frevo’s co-owner and chef, Brazilian-born Franco Sampogna, has crafted a menu that changes seasonally. Simplicity is the keynote, but that refined menu is exquisitely nuanced, with surprising flavors. For example, the night I dined in the spring (just before lockdown), the second course was seasonal (and prized) white asparagus, with sorrel and blood orange. At another time, that course was a cup of remarkably tasty and creamy hummus, accented with crispy quinoa and chives. Our first course was hamachi, with coconut and sea urchin, topped with golden kaluga caviar; I passed on the raw hamachi (but my dining companion raved), while I was offered one of the most mouthwatering dishes I’ve ever savored—a thick  artichoke soup, smothered in black truffles, punctuated with foamy, ethereal truffle juice and bread crumbs. I can still taste it and am still dreaming about it. I did not have to dream long—as I returned for the take-out Christmas menu and ordered extra soup!

After culinary school, Sampogna further advanced his education, working under Michelin-starred chefs Fabrice Vulin (at a Chèvre d’Or in the South of France); Guy Savoy (at the Rue Troyon in Paris); and Alain Ducasse (at the Hotel Plaza Athénée, also in Paris). His extensive in-kitchen training is apparent in the artful amalgam of flavors he has melded into each course.

I could not believe how tasty the celery root tagliatelle pasta course was, and, as it was accented with black truffles, it was all the more satiating. That was followed by a delectable scallop dish, with crispy salsify, resting on an airy cloud of roasted salsify. When the main course arrived, chicken Albufera (named for the Duke of Albufera), it looked like a chocolate brownie, smothered in hot fudge sauce, bisected with thin, striated lines of vanilla crème. Of course, it was not; it was a lovely three-inch square of poached, tender chicken, in a blackened (with squid ink), cognac-infused cream sauce. It was simply heavenly. Celestial is also an adjective suitable for the luscious dessert — dulce de leche gelato, hazelnut foam, with caramel and a sugary tuile.

A cheese course, 36-month-aged comté de garde from French cheese monger Fromagerie Antony, was served with a giant, crispy, house-made, tuile-like bread-cracker, the perfect accompaniment to the paper-thin, nutty cheese.

And, oh, yes, if you are interested, the paintings in the foyer-entryway are for sale. They have been created by the French artist Toma-L., whose work Chef Sampogna discovered in Paris. When Sampogna and his partner, restaurant manager, Portuguese-born Bernardo Silva, were planning Frevo, they invited the painter to the city to create art for the restaurant and gallery (which, parenthetically, was previously a panini restaurant). The idea was to create artwork that reflected the constant state of vibrancy and exhilaration that Gotham engenders, and that would suggest the simmering or bubbling spirit of the restaurant.

If you opt to buy the painting that is Frevo’s front door, then Toma-L. will simply have to create a new doorway for Alice and her anointed guests who are lucky enough to snag some of the precious seats at Frevo.

The Details:

Frevo Restaurant, 48 West 8th Street, New York City, NY  10011; 646-455-0804

Open for dinner only: Tuesday through Thursday, at 7 pm; Friday and Saturday, two dinner seatings, 5:30 and 8:30 pm.

Reservations, a must. The tariff for dinner is $138 per person; an additional $88 for the basic wine-pairing; $220 for the premium wine-pairing.  There are a few other supplemental fees for extras, if desired, such as additional caviar.  (Frevo, however, is a non-tipping restaurant.)

View the current menu

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This mouthwatering gem stems from T-Boy writer, foodie, and photographer extraordinaire, Steve Rosenfeld. He seems to have a knack for finding the very best dining venues in the most exotic locations. And, this one compels me to experience The Cousins Trattoria, located in Cape Town, South Africa. – Audrey

By Steve Rosenfield

I think I would be remiss if I did not tell our readers about an Italian restaurant  my bride Elaine and I visited when we were in Cape Town, South Africa. The name of the restaurant is The Cousins Trattoria and it was actually started by three cousins – Luca, Simone and Andrea Biondi – who came from Italy and somehow ended up in Cape Town.

Their signature dish is Tagliolini served with cream, mushroom and thyme, but the best part is when the meal is brought out to your table, it is dropped into a large wheel of Grana Padano cheese, which the server brings to the table on a cart, and proceeds to mix the Tagliolini around in the wheel until it picks up the cheese from the wheel, and is then placed back on your plate. We enjoyed it so much, we went back again during our short stay.

The atmosphere is very warm and intimate, the service great and the conversation enjoyable. I recommend it for anyone who has the good fortune to visit Cape Town.

The Cousins’ Pasta Dish

For the pasta, combine:

• 1kg white cake flour
• 8 eggs
• 150ml water

For the sauce, sauté:

• 500g white mushrooms
• 1 litre fresh cream
• 150ml white wine
• 20g garlic
• 20g thyme

Finish in a wheel of parmesan.

Click here and see how it is done

Here’s a look at a few other dishes:

Buon Appetito from Cape Town!

– Steve

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