y grandmother originally hailed from the hills in the province of Genova. As an Italian-American family living in Seattle, Sunday dinners at her house were blessed with a bounty of homemade regional dishes, such as pesto, ravioli (served only at Christmas), focaccia, polenta, stuffed zucchini, and so much more. My step-grandfather was born in the region of Lombardia, just on the other side of the border from Switzerland. To please him (and us), she often times would serve local dishes from his region that would include risotto, Osso Buco, and, above all, Costolette di Vittelo Milanese (circa 716 AD).

Though oftentimes confused with Wiener Schnitzel (cutlets Vienna-style) - and in some kitchens almost identical - Costolette di Vittelo Milanese is considered a dish brought from Milan to Vienna by Marshal Radetzky in 1857. Another version is that it was simply passed on to the Viennese as a result of one and a half centuries of Austrian rule. Still further proof that it is indeed a Milanese invention is a menu written in 1134 AD, which included “lumbulos cum panitio” - sliced loin in bread crumbs, in the list of dishes offered by the abbot of the Saint Ambrose monastery in Milan. I invite our readers to provide evidence to the contrary that Costolette di Vittelo Milanese is not a precursor to Wiener Schnitzel.

Whatever your opinion: Costolette di Vittelo Milanese is an easy dish to prepare and best served immediately. For those with a disdain for veal products, pounded chicken breasts can be substituted.

Ingredients:

• 6 veal loin chops, ¾ inch think
• 1/2 cup dry unflavored beadcrumbs
• 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 eggs
• Salt to taste
• ¼ cup butter
• Lemon slices

Pound veal chops lightly. Combine breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese in a small bowl. Spread on foil. Beat eggs in a medium bowl. Dip pounded veal in beaten eggs, then coat with breadcrumb and cheese mixture. Press mixture onto veal with the palms of your hands. Let coated veal stand for 10 to 15 minutes. Melt butter in a large skillet. When butter foams, add veal. Cook over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes on each side or until veal has a golden-brown crust. Drain on paper towels. Transfer to a warm platter. Garnish with lemon slices. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.