With its jagged mountain peaks that jolt vertically from the sea, stunning waterways, cascading waterfalls, tiny fishing villages and mountain farmhouses, the fjords of Norway would be my pick for the most visually striking place on the planet. I’m not exactly going out on a limb when I say this. Two of Norway’s most famous fjords, the Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, have already joined the Great Wall of China, Egypt’s great pyramids of Giza, and the Grand Canyon as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And National Geographic Traveler Magazine also rated Norway’s fjords as the top travel destination in the world in their first “Index of Destination Stewardship” – an elite list of the least spoiled, great places on earth.

Carved by the Hands of God

Gallivanting north on Norway’s western coast, the fjords were carved out in a succession of ice ages. When glaciers retreated approximately 12,000 years ago, plants soon appeared, animals thrived and humans eventually made their way into this spectacular, but remote, heaven on earth. Small fishing villages were established along with tiny sod roofed farmhouses which quietly dotted the landscape, some situated on mountains so steep that they required a ladder to ascend the terrain. Once tax collectors realized there were people living in this isolated region, they made an annual trek to the farms, only to find that many of the ladders had mysteriously disappeared. When the first tourists arrived – primarily the European aristocracy – who came to fish in this untouched paradise of crystal-clear waters, they were guaranteed all the fish they could carry. Word spread, and the fjords became the sportsperson’s paradise. Soon the rest of the world had heard about them.

HURTIGRUTEN:
“The World’s Most Beautiful Voyage.”

In 1891 Norwegian Coastal Voyage (now Hurtigruten) established a daily, year-round boat service along the western coast of Norway, with Bergen at the southern terminus and the Russian border at the north. With 34 ports of call, the coastal trek became a lifeline along the west coast of Norway, carrying cargo to isolated villages and farming communities. Tourism quickly became an important component of the voyages, giving people the opportunity to experience the fjord-filled coastline, Midnight Sun and the Northern Lights.

Travelers soon came in the thousands, making Norwegian Coastal Voyage one of Europe’s biggest attractions. On my four-day journey, I found that more than 60 percent of the tourists on the voyage were Norwegian. It was wonderful to travel with locals and see the county through their eyes, and the fact that it was a real working cargo vessel made the experience even more authentic. The vessel serves as an interesting hybrid of a working ship and tour boat, with all the comforts of spacious cabins, lounges and dining rooms overflowing with Scandinavian breakfast buffets, and regional Nordic meals for lunch and dinner. Dare I say I ate and learned with every bite. The journey also includes land tours by bus, which meet back with the vessel at future ports.

To understand the fjords is to understand the Norwegian character, whose national identity has been formed by its passionate bond with nature. When a Norwegian goes on vacation – an average of six-weeks a year – the destination of choice is usually the Norwegian countryside. Later, while sitting on the deck of my vessel under a Midnight Sun that refused to set, I asked a gentlemanly 70-something Norwegian passenger about his family’s vacation. He replied that his multi-generational family of fifteen congregates at their cabin further north for four-weeks, sans electricity and running water. He smiled when I inquired how they managed to fill the time. Fill the time! Why… we go hiking and fishing… and have grand family meals by a roaring bonfire… what can be better than that! The more I thought about it, the more I wished I too could disconnect in a similar setting in the countryside. Our conversation ended with a skål (toast) of aquavit – a potato-based snaps, considered Norway and the rest of Scandinavia’s national alcoholic beverage – in celebration of our good fortune on the voyage.

Bergen –  Gateway to the Fjords

Bergen is the second-largest city in Norway, founded in 1070 by King Olav Kyrre. Initially a small trading village, it was named Bjørgvin, ‘the green meadow among the mountains.’

At end of the 13th century Bergen’s status as a village of trade exploded when it became part of the Hanseatic League, a restrictive guild made-up of almost exclusively Germans. Bergen enjoyed protective rights to mediate trade between Northern Norway, receiving fish products and sending back oats in return. During the Hanseatic League’s peak of power, the guild had a monopoly over trade in the North and Baltic seas. Though “designed” for mutual commercial interests, such as protection against piracy and non-guild members, the German traders were endowed with almost unsurpassed treatment with duty-free trade and diplomatic privileges, complete with their own armies for mutual defense and aid.

Bergen’s Norwegian locals, though, were considered second-class citizens by the Hanseatic Germans, and were reduced to menial laborers, maids and servants, modest shopkeepers and backbreaking longshoremen. Some of the city’s female population became “comfort women” for the amusement of the German traders.

Bergen served as Norway’s capital in the 13th century, until it was overtaken by Christiania (now known as Oslo). But the city today still continues as Norway’s busiest port, a remarkable destination for tourism, and with moniker, “gateway to the majestic fjords.”

And this is where your Hurtigrutenfjord experience will begin; but before you hop aboard the boat, it is essential that you spend at least two days in this World Heritage City. Bergen boasts endless tourist attractions, and the Bergen Tourist Card is an important component to your tour of this historic harbor town. The price allows you free or reduced-price admittance to the Bergen Art Museum, Fantoft Stave Church, harbor boat tour, Bergen Castle, and St Mary’s Church.

Time will allow a wandering through the harbor fish market and down the wooden streets of the former Hanseatic warehouse district. A fish buffet should be on everyone’s list for a sampling of Bergen’s world-famous fish soup, gravlaks (cured Atlantic salmon), fish cakes and hearty breads, all washed down with the city’s Hansa beer.

A Bergen Must: Edvard Grieg’s Troldhaugen

Despite his diminutive 5 ft frame, Norwegian composer Edvard Hagerup Grieg was a towering rock star long before the expression existed. Born into a successful Bergen merchant family in 1843, his life dramatically changed when violin virtuoso Ole Bull recognized his talent and introduced him to the treasures of Norwegian folk music. Grieg studied the masters abroad but dreamed of reprieves to his beloved Norwegian countryside – a pattern which continued after he became a world-renowned composer.

Grieg and his wife built a home on Lake Nordås on the edge of Bergen, which he called his best opus so far. Christened Troldhaugen, the Victorian villa became a centerpiece for Bergen’s artistic community and visiting dignitaries. But Grieg also required periods of peace and quiet to work and built a composer’s hut by the lake. Grieg died in 1907 of chronic exhaustion. But today his legacy lives on at Troldhaugen – nothing less than a living museum which consists of the Edvard Grieg Museum, the Villa, the Composer’s Hut, Recital Hall and Edvard Grieg´s tomb. My highpoint was a concert at the hall, which is discreetly built partially underground with a sod roof. The floor-to-ceiling windows behind the stage overlooks the composer’s hut where Grieg would work, superstitiously sitting on a stack of sheet music by Beethoven so that he could reach the piano. At the end of each day, he would leave a note: If anyone should break in here, please leave the musical scores, since they have no value to anyone except Edvard Grieg.

DESTINATIONS ON YOUR VOYAGE

Trondheim – City of the Viking King

Trondheim is Norway’s third largest city and once served as the country’s first capital. Two millenniums ago, Viking King Olav Tryggvason sailed up the Trondheimsfjorden in his five longships and gave birth to the inlet’s name, and, most importantly, led the conversion of the Viking Norse to Christianity. The centerpiece of Trondheim’s greatest tourist attraction is St. Olav Catholic Church, built on the site of his own grave. Numerous kings of the middle-ages have found their final resting place in Trondheim, and the city continues to gain popularity as one of Europe’s most important medieval pilgrimage centers.

With time permitting make a stop at the Trøndelag Folk Museum, an open-air museum dating back to 1909. The museum showcases the various building traditions, with 80 vintage structures on display, ranging from wooden huts to city mansions, including the reconstructed Haltdalen Stave Church.

LOFOTEN ISLANDS – And Lutefisk

Located within the Arctic Circle, no words can do justice to the Lofoten Islands’ breathtaking archipelago, a life-reaffirming array of mountainous villages and white sand, often connected by ornate bridges. With Its inlets of little villages, sheltered by mountain peaks pirouetting out of the sea, you’ll witness why fishing has long been the very foundation of life in the islands.

While on the deck of a Hurtigruten vessel, overlooking a Lofoten fishing village, I overheard an American passenger ask a Lofoten local what those things were hanging on stilts. The Norwegian replied that it was air-dried cod for making Lutefisk. The American exclaimed, And the birds don’t eat it? The Norwegian man shrugged, No, for some reason they don’t seem to like it.  

Everyone of Scandinavian heritage knows of Lutefisk (pronounced lou-tah-fisk), but, outside the Norse world and its emigrants, few have actually eaten it. Lutefisk is a traditional Nordic food of dried cod or stockfish, prepared in lye. It is soaked in cold water for five to six days (changed daily). It is then soaked in an unchanged solution of cold water and lye for an additional two days. When this treatment is finished, a final treatment of yet another four to six days of soaking in cold water (also changed daily) is needed. Eventually, the Lutefisk is ready to be baked in the oven for 40-50 minutes. Today the dish is cherished by people of Norwegian ancestry throughout the globe as an essential Christmas season dish. And never forget about lefse, a large thin potato pancake served buttered and folded, which is even better with a slice of geitos, a processed brown goat cheese. But, for the contemporary Norwegian, Lutefisk is regarded as a common everyday dish from the past, and no longer appropriate for the Christmas Eve (Julaften) table – and now pinnekjøtt (lamb ribs) is the most popular Julaften dish in northwestern Norway, while ribbe (roast pork belly) leads the pack in the east.

Tromsø – Paris of the Arctic

Tromsø is the largest Nordic city north of the Arctic Circle, home to the world’s most northern university and cathedral, brewery, botanical garden and planetarium. Less than a century ago, visitors were surprised to find cultural and intellectual activity in a city so far to the north. Of all the destinations on my journey I found the residents of this city of 53,622 to be the most open and friendly in all of Norway. Look closely and you will see locations used in the original film, Insomnia, by Erik Skjoldbjærg (1997), far superior to the Hollywood remake. And you might notice post-WW II homes, built after Hitler attempted to burn the entire city down in fear that an Allied D-Day invasion might commence in the Norwegian north.

The Sámi –  Scandinavia’s Aborigines

My knowledge of the Sámi People was limited and underfed, with only a vague recollection that they were nomadic reindeer (caribou in North America) herders based somewhere in northern Norway. This changed upon spending four-hours in the Tromsø Museum, which houses more than 2,000 Sámi artifacts, and offers a direct insight into their unique culture and way of life.

The Sámi have been living in the Northern Arctic and sub-arctic Nordic regions (and Russia) since prehistoric times, long before the name “Viking” existed. Though Norway is considered one of the world’s most tolerant societies, this was initially not the case in the treatment of the Sámi – then referred to in the derogatory as “Lapps” – who faced soul-crunching discrimination, forced Norwegian cultural assimilation and found their traditional religion was condemned as witchcraft. Yet, due to forward-thinking Norwegians, the 2011 U.N. Racial Discrimination Committee and Sámi activists themselves, their treatment has dramatically improved where they can now maintain and develop their own language (60 words for snow), culture and way of life. The have their own style of dress, separate national identity, their own radio stations and are represented in the Norwegian parliament.

Many Sámi have become urbanites, generally living in the town of Karasjok, considered the Sámi capital. While others continue with the nomadic lifestyle of moving horizontally across the northern vertical borders of Norway, Sweden and Finland in search of new grazing ground for their herds of reindeer. I came out from the other side of the Tromsø Museum with a keen appreciation of the Sámi peoples’ unique culture and remarkable way of life.

My guide informed me that you can also camp in a traditional lavvu (tent) in the Sápmi Culture Park in Karasjok and interact with the gentle Sámi. He also noted that you’ll walk away with a better understanding of the Sámi’s deep relationship with the reindeer; the animal which plays the ultimate role in their way of life, providing milk, transportation, fur and food. Apparently, it’s not uncommon hear a traditional Sámi joik (song) at the park, which have passed from one generation to the next.

While you’re in the fjord’s, no doubt you’ll discover a few Stave Churches. Take your time and explore them. My personal pick is the church of Urnes (stavkirke), which stands in a natural setting in the Sognefjord. The church proved to be an outstanding example of traditional Scandinavian wooden architecture, a fusion of Viking art and Romanesque spatial structures.

A Bit More on Stave Churches

When Viking King Olav Tryggvason (now Olaf the Holy I) Christianized Norway in the year 1000, he established this new religion by the use of force — but also with Norse mythology as its foundation. Catholic missionaries transitioned the meaning of the pagan winter solstice of Yule as a Christian holiday to celebrate the birth of Jesus. Medieval Norwegians, now tamed Vikings, took their refined boat-building skills and constructed pine wooden churches with little more than an ax and wooden nails. The new Norwegian churches were called Stave Churches, supported by stout pine poles — or “staves” — and slathered with a protective coat of black tar. Pine wood was cheap and plentiful, and the Norseman soon stood solemnly in the Stave Churches’ dark rooms, with benches only for the aged and physically handicapped. With masses in Latin, that few could understand, it was critical to show former Viking pagans a similar value system; a fight between good and evil, illustrated with sculpted dragons and snakes standing for evil, which the Vikings used on their longships to fight evil with evil, dragon against dragon.

And it worked, with a rough estimate of 1,000 to 2,000 Stave Churches built between 1130 and 1350 throughout the Scandinavian world, which also included Russia.

But then, just when the Norwegian populace were barely Christianized, along came the 1517 Protestant Reformation. Catholic Stave Churches were met with groups of strict Protestant missionaries carrying burning torches. Some were pulled down, others transformed into Protestant parishes, ridding them of their sacred Catholic symbols, riches and mythologizes. It should be noted, though, that some Stave Churches crumbled due to rotting of pine poles built on soggy ground. But anything that reeked of Catholicism was destroyed, including the Roman Catholic Church’s celebration of the Mass of Christ. Keep in the mind that Christmas was not even a federal holiday in the U.S. until 1870, with President Ulysses S. Grant’s attempt to unite the North and South in the post-Civil War years.

Today, there are only 21 Stave Churches in existence throughout Norway. The few that remain are less of an elaborate construction, due to their former placement in the fjords and other remote outlying areas – areas that required too much time and travel to be destroyed.

On a personal note, color me as a man with a profound appreciation of Stave Churches; for my opinions are biased as my mother’s family name is Stave.

EPILOUGE

Norway’s quest for independence began in 1814, with the signing of a new constitution, but was forced into a union with Sweden as the dominant nation that lasted until the early 1990s. Prior to that, Denmark had held the reins on Norway for over 400 years. It was not until May 17, 1905, when Norway secured full independence, known as Constitution Day or Independence Day. The new Norway forged ahead, creating a liberal democracy and its own national identity devoid of an any interference from other nations and with a preference not to join the European Union. (a second Independence Day, though, was celebrated on May 8, 1945, when Norway was liberated after five years of occupation by Nazi forces.) Genuine Norwegianness was illustrated in folklore and fairytales (with happy endings), Norse mythology and Viking sagas, a written national language and the use of pine wood, and even voting for Norway’s first king. And, above all, Norway’s artists were embraced with the music of Grieg and Ole Bull; the plays of dramatist Henrik Ibsen (the world’s most popular playwriter after Shakespeare); the novels of Knud Knudsen; and the Expressionist paintings of Edvard Munch. Like the Republic of Ireland, Norway is nation who loves its artists.

In 2018, Norway was the world’s 14th biggest producer of oil and eighth biggest producer of natural gas, according to data from the US Energy Information Administration. The black gold is also the reason Norway’s 5.4 million inhabitants today have the world’s biggest sovereign wealth fund, worth $1.36 trillion (1.13 trillion euros). Despite the nation’s affluence, the Norwegian character is one of modesty, where the nation’s oil revenue is poured back into the economy allowing a higher standard of living for all citizens.

Yet, keen to present itself as a role model with its efforts to fight deforestation in the tropics and a world leader in electric car sales, the Scandinavian country aims to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions by 55 percent by 2030, and to almost nothing by 2050.

But it is regularly criticized for the CO2 emissions generated abroad by the oil it exports.

While Norway cites the need for a “green transition,” it still relies heavily on oil and gas revenues for its public finances, trade balance (accounting for 42 percent of exports of goods), employment (more than 200,000 jobs are either directly or indirectly linked to the sector) and, most importantly, to keep rural Norway populated.  Norway is nothing less than the world’s greatest planned nation. 

HOW TO GET THERE

Scandinavian Airlines

Hurtigruten.us

VisitNorway.com/us

The post Norway’s Fjords: God’s Gift to the World appeared first on Traveling Archive.

“The past is for the present, the present for the future.”
— William Least Heat-Moon, Blue Highways: A Journey into America.

Travel writer William Least  Heat-Moon  in his stunning 1982 memoir, Blue Highways: A Journey into America, said you could  once tell what side of the Missouri River you were on by how the catfish was prepared. Yes, some cities and regions — Paris, Santa Fe, Buenos Aires — still have cuisines so distinctive that when blindfolded you can actually tell exactly where you are in the world. While many others have transitioned with a spectacular fusion of flavors and ingredients, due to the rich immigrant experience.

Culinary tourism is the exploration of food as the purpose of traveling. Dining out is common among tourists and food is believed to rank alongside climate, culture, and scenery in importance to tourists. Indeed, flavor is very much in the taste of the beholder, so we thought it would be fun to compile our members’ selections of favorite food destinations. Needless to say, I was more than a little interested to read their choices in a subject which we’ve never addressed. — EB

Favorite Food Destinations Cities:

Stephen Brewer — T-Boy writer:

• Ferrara — Yes, Bologna is considered Italy’s food capital, but nearby Ferrara adds twists of its own with cappellaci di zucca, round pasta stuffed with squash, and coppia Ferrarese, sourdough bread stretched into the shape of intertwining legs. Salama da suga (local sausages) are the bases for the city’s own versions of grills and ragu.
• Palermo — The heady mix of Arabic, French, and Italian influences come to the fore in markets, street food stalls, and bustling restaurants. A walk through the blocks-long Capo market is a head-spinning introduction to the island’s bounty. Fish, especially swordfish and tuna, show up in such exotic preparations as tuna with a sauce of pistachio and mint. The favorite street foods are panino con la milza, little sandwiches with boiled spleen and cheese, and arrancine, little rice balls filled with meat and cheese. Top stop for sweet tooths is Segreti del Chiostro, bringing together old recipes from around the island for a rush of almond paste, pistachio, and mandarin cream.
• New York — It’s all here in one of the world’s most ethnically diverse cities, from traditional Italian and French to nouvelle Israeli, Haitian, blends of Cuban-Chinese, pizza, and lox and other classics of our own.

Rourke — Musician & composer:

• New York City — My walking tour of Manhattan starts in the morning in the lower east side at Kossar’s for a warm bialy, and then the Donut Plant.  Meandering through the streets of the lower east side, you burn off the calories until you end up at Clinton Street for some breakfast noshes, then press on, burning more calories, just in time for a little snack of some pastrami at Katz’s.  You end up in the streets of Chinatown for some soup dumplings and press onward through Soho, up to the village, to the west village, then back east, zig-zagging your way, all day uptown.
• Rome — Another great city for walking and getting lost.  If you’re lucky to be there in the fall, there will be street vendors everywhere selling roasted chestnuts, markets with tons of porcini and truffles, fried artichokes.   My best tip is to find out where the locals go, like Pizzeria Formula One.   In Rome you can eat just as well on a low budget as on a high budget.
• Hong Kong — This is where two worlds collide.  On one hand you have ultra-modern food and architecture, and then you find yourself in old world China, as you walk in out of alleyways.  The American Restaurant is an institution there; despite the name, no one speaks a word of English.    In Wan Chai is Hay Hay Kitchen for classic roast meats. In Hong Kong, you get the best of every region of China, all within a few square miles.
• London — Usually not on foodies’ top five destinations.  Tourists will be tempted to try classics like fish n chips, meat pies, and English Country breakfasts with blood sausage, but the real treasure in London is the ethnic foods.  The best falafel I ever had is at the Falafel King.   London is well known to have the best Indian food outside of India, but I found myself eating Lebanese and Iraqi food more than anything.   Still, I wanted to try a classic old-world British supper, and I found out in Kensington, called Maggie Jones.  It’s a space that’s over two hundred years old, lit only by candles in old bottles.  The food was so good, I went two nights in a row.
• Italian Wine Country — Rent a car and get lost.   There’s no wrong turn.  There’s no bad wine.  There’s no bad meal.  Siena is as good a starting point as any.   From there, it’s one small hillside village after another, my favorite being Spoleto, which is swarming in truffles during truffle season.

Ringo Boitano — T-Boy Writer:

• East Berlin, Germany — Arriving by time machine to the preunification GDR restaurant PILA (Pionierlager) was a fascinating step back into history.  Nostalgia restaurants are now spread across East Berlin, popular with locals for a taste of the past, and curious tourists in understanding the simple dinning experiences at the East German table. PILA’s small GDR museum, adorned with posters, artifacts and musical remembrances, puts everyone in a festive mood. Their menu features selected dishes from the former GDR as well as ‘bourgeois’ cuisine from today.  The Pioneer Camp Menu (three different course selections, including barrel shower – beer brewed in a barrel — or Berliner Pilsner) offers a good overview of their kitchen. I opted for pork chops, with sides of two epic boiled potatoes, and spinach, dressed with a unique concoction from a tube of unknown substance. The chops were tough and rather grisly, but I was appreciative of their authenticity.

Deb Roskamp — T-Boy photographer & writer: 

• Papeete, Tahiti — What is more alluring to the senses than tropical fruits and fresh catch from the Pacific in a seeming paradise?!?  Poisson cru (or, in Tahitian, ia ota), mango, papaya … bring it on!  When there, one must also explore the ornately painted vans (called les roulettes) serving inexpensive cuisine influenced by the French, Vietnamese and Chinese.
• Monterosso del Mare, Italy — Again, fresh catch from (this time) the Mediterranean, pasta, vegetables from the terraced hillsides – all cooked with centuries old traditions in a setting that is sublime.
• Parma, Italy — So much to say!  Hands-down, some of the best prepared food I’ve eaten in just a lovely little town.
• Copenhagen, Denmark — Had the most memorable meal in Tivoli Gardens!  Would love to be transported NOW!
• Coyoacan, Mexico — Fantastic lunch of exotic flavors after visiting the Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky museums.  Never to be forgotten.

Richard Carroll — T-Boy writer: 

• Los Angeles — The most ethnically diverse city in the world, Los Angeles offers an incredible dining scene with a huge number of culturally rich neighborhoods and the opportunity to experience authentic cooking. Ongoing cultural festivals with dining in the forefront are offered in a stunning collection of neighborhoods including, Little Tokyo, Thai Town, Little Ethiopia, Koreatown, Little Armenia, Boyle Heights and Mariachi Plaza, Olvera Street, Little Bangladesh, Leimert Park Village (African American), and Pico-Robertson where some 30 Kosher restaurants line the streets. The city is noted for Mexican cuisine with restaurants covering Northern Mexican cuisine, to dishes of Southern Mexico, the hot spicy sauces of Veracruz, and Puebla’s tasty mole, The French have also made their mark with a huge selection of restaurants, bistros and brasseries. Petit Trois, Barbette, Republique and Monsieur Marcel offer memorable pleasure along with a host of others all equally top drawer.
• Mexico City — Long celebrated among the world’s top five dining cities. A visit to Mexico City is a glorious dining experience. I found the cuisine in a city like this, noted as a dining mecca, would take years to cover. With more than 15 visits there seem to be surprises around every corner. The dining here ranges from home cooking and family recipes, to Maya influenced dishes, and special entrees from the various regions, along with high end international cuisine, and down home authentic Mexican dishes featuring variations from a hundred different styles of moles. A wonderful Mexico dining tradition is live music, sometimes it’s street musicians who wander in or it may be a house band or a single guitarist. Mexico City’s excellent selection of restaurants include Pujol ranked 13th in the world in 2018, Chef Rafael Bautista’s elegant Les Moustaches, influenced by the dishes of France, El Cardenal flying the Mexican flag and the essence of authentic Mexican cooking, Nico’s dating to 1957 serving traditional Mexican dishes with a modern touch, and San Angel Inn, located in a 17th century monastery, are only a tiny sampling.. For me, Mexico City is an international dining treasure.
• Grand Cayman — The island has an astonishing medley of chef’s and cooks who have landed here from all parts of the globe, all responsible for the island tabbed as The Capital of Caribbean Cuisine, Chef’s I enjoy are Executive Chef Massimo Defrancesca cooking at the Kimpton Seafire Resort & Spa, Executive Chef Danny Flanagan at the Sunshine Grill, Chef De Cuisine Crystal Marshall making her mark at the Grand Cayman Marriott Beach Resort, Anchor & Den, and Sous Chef Chamara Jeewantha, creating in the Grand Old House.

Tom Weber — T-Boy Writer:

• The Salento, Puglia, Italy — The Salento, a sub-region of Puglia in the southeastern corner of Italy where the Adriatic and Ionian seas embrace, is best savored with a knife, fork and wine goblet as its grassroots la cucina povera (poor kitchen) — the quintessential Mediterranean diet — comes straight out of the “zero kilometer” soil and nearby seas and right onto your plate and into your glass.

Ed Boitano — T-Boy editor:

• Bologna, Italy — Bologna has long been considered the gastronomic capital of Italy. With the moniker of La Grassa (the fat one), it is the birthplace of Mortadella di Bologna, Tagliatelle al ragù, Lasagne alla Bolognese, Tortellini en brodo, and Polpette alla Bolognese all washed down with a bright, frothy Lambrusco. Nearby in the rich agricultural Po Valley, the cities of Modena hail balsamic vinegar as its home, and in Parma, Parmigiano–Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma, which all seem to make their way onto the Bolognese table. My waitress looked down at my half-eaten plate of rich lasagne, and asked if it was ok.  I replied it was beyond tremendous, but I just couldn’t consume any more food.  She smiled, Well, we are called the ‘Fat One’ for a reason.
• Valparaiso Chile — I jumped into my rental car at dawn’s first light, and traversed down Valparaiso’s winding cobblestone streets to meet the fishermen as they first pulled their boats upon the shore. Locals were already there, negotiating the cost of that night’s catch. I checked my watch and realized it was actually eight in the morning. Nevertheless, there was still a bounty of the sea to be purchased: Congrio (Conger Eel); Merluza, (hake), Reinet, (pomfret), and, Jurel, (Jack Mackerel). I took a stroll over to Valparaiso’s fish market for a look at local crustaceans: ostra chilena, oysters only harvested every five years; lobsters without claws and shrimp; and the delicate Machas pink clams, that really do melt in your mouth. Too early for a nap, I took a chair in one of Valparaiso’s rustic fisherman cafes for a Pisco Sour. As I glanced around the modest cafe at the tired, rugged-looking fishermen, silently huddled around tables, I realized I was on the edge of a world which I knew nothing about.
• Hanoi, Vietnam — Phở is still Vietnam’s national dish, but after 70 years of French colonialism, traditional Vietnamese cooking also has a Gallic accent, with a remarkable fusion of flavors, ingredients and combinations. To and from the main roads of Hanoi, peddlers sell baguettes (soft interior, slightly sweet, sans the Parisian air) to motorists in plastic bags.  The sliced baguettes also serve as an essential component in making Banh Mi, the vastly popular Vietnamese sandwich. Other dishes with a Franco-Vietnamese twist include Bún Ốc, a noodle soup containing sea snails; Bò lúc lắc, marinated cubed beef; and Bánh patê sô, a hybrid savory hot pie originating from the shores of Brittany. For this, Hanoi is considered the culinary capital of Vietnam.
• Province of Genoa, Italy I am biased for the little mountain towns and villages in Northern Italy’s province of Genoa is my families’ ancestral homeland. The province of Genoa (similar to a U.S. county) claims pesto, focaccia, Geno salami, and ravioli — the traditional Genovese Christmas day meal — as its origin. I was initially introduced to these dishes by my Italian born Nonna in Seattle, whose cuisine was almost identical to those made in Genoa, give our take a few imported items. Plus, there’s an abundance of additional delicacies borrowed from other northern regions: polenta, risotto, gnocchi, Parmigiano–Reggiano, Modena balsamic vinegar and Lucca olive oil.

T. E. Mattox — T-Boy music critic:

• Tokyo — You can find the best food underground in the massive subway systems. Any cuisine, American diners to Ethiopian spices and French delicacies! Truly International.
• San Francisco — From Fisherman’s Wharf to Italian Deli’s on Mission and in the Haight. A 45-year favorite, a little workingman’s cubbyhole in Chinatown called, Sam Wo’s. The Bay area is also a cornucopia of chocolates and wines.
• Austin, TX — Blue Balls and Fried pickles. Don’t miss the Mean-eyed Cat Cafe. B-B-Q in the back!
• New Orleans — This town is one giant bowl of Gumbo! Try the Red Fish.
• Sorrento, Italy — Seafood with the ultimate pastas. Even the truck stops and gas stations on the Autostrada serve phenomenal panini and vino. Grappa is hallucinogenic!

David Erskine — T-Boy VP of advertising:

• Munich, Bavaria, Germany  My Onkel Pitt lived on Damenstiftstrasse just off the famous Marienplatz in Munich’s town center (Stadtmitte) since 1158.  A favorite restaurant was the Augusteinerbrau Bierhalle, one of Munich’s oldest breweries started in 1328 with its award-winning lager (Helles Lager).  I traveled to Munich a number of times in the 70’s, 90’s and after 2000.  One of my favorite memories was walking from my Onkel Pitt’s apartment to the rear entrance of the Augusteinerbrau to pick up a few liters of lager for supper.  In fact, for many years, I didn’t even know of the famous restaurant because my first memory was always walking up the alley with my Onkel Pitt to get a few liters of that famous beer.

Roger Fallihee — T-Boy writer:

• New York — My wife and I are very fond of the NYC cuisine. We had the privilege to visit Red Rooster in Harlem, one of Chef Marcus Samuelsson’s signature restaurants. Also, Aureole, Chef Charlie Palmer; and lastly, D.B. Bistro, Daniel Blulud. Great tip for frugal travelers. Going to lunch at these places, if open, gives the opportunity to enjoy the world class cuisine at 1/2 to 1/3 less expensive.

Gary Brouwer — Therapist:

• Lima and Peruvian villages With 4,000 varieties of native potatoes grown in the Andean highlands, it’s hard not to be impressed. In a kaleidoscope of unique shapes and colors; blue, yellow, red, pink and bright purple, each has its own cultivated flavor.  Peru also included my first encounter with Coy a deep-fried or spionitted guinea pig, served only at special occasions. Also, the Chinese-Peruvian fusion Lomo Saltado, a stir-fry of beef and vegetables, and Aji de Gallina, a creamy chicken stew served with boiled eggs, potatoes, olives, and rice.

Richard Frisbie — T-Boy writer:

You’ll find spectacular food destination on my colleagues’ lists, but this doesn’t tell you the most important information, namely, what my favorite food region is. Hands down, that designation has to go to New York State’s Hudson Valley region. Here’s why:

It is the home of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), arguably the world’s most prestigious cooking school. Because of that, the Hudson Valley has the highest concentration of CIA graduate chefs. It makes sense. After spending years living and learning in one of the most scenic sections of the United States, these top chefs don’t want to leave. Or, after leaving to pursue hands-on education in some of the top restaurants in the world, they return to the Hudson Valley with their skill honed to settle down and open their own restaurants. They know the markets and sources here, they have a steady supply of vetted employees from their alma mater, and NYC is an hour train ride away. They have the best of both worlds.

New York City is where chefs of all backgrounds go to prove themselves. The “If you can make it there, you’ll make it anywhere” mentality is especially true in the restaurant world. But what comes after that? A move upstate 40 to 90 miles north of Manhattan is the logical choice. Chefs are closer to their farmers and purveyors here, their customers all own second homes here or vacation here, and the quality of life is just better.

Trust me — I live in the Hudson Valley, next door to the best restaurant in my mid-Hudson Valley county, and I work at what is consistently called the Best Bakery in the Hudson Valley. One chef friend has won Chopped three times, others own or work in “Best of” category restaurants, and still others are great chefs respected by their peers. New York State’s Hudson Valley is home to all this talent. If you haven’t eaten here yet, I can only ask “What are you waiting for?”

Susan Breslow — T-Boy writer:

• New York
• Tokyo
• San Francisco
• Milan
• Quebec City

Greg Aragon — T-Boy writer:

Porto, Portugal — Porto is a beautiful waterfront city set on the Douro River. The city is best known for its legendary port wine industry, but visitors also love its sights, highlighted by old fishing boats, historic cathedrals, arched bridges, cobble stone streets, colorful Portuguese tiles and lots aromatic sidewalk cafes.

During my visit to Porto, I was enchanted by the exciting and eclectic cuisine. Some foods that tantalized my taste buds include the francesinha sandwich, a warm sandwich with ham, sausages, and steak. It can be topped with melted cheese and an egg and served with French fries.

Another local delicacy is Porto Tripe, a traditional tripe stew usually featuring veal tripe, white beans, smoked ham, pork sausage, carrots, onions, spices such as paprika and cumin, and various cuts of chicken and pork.

I also enjoyed a delicious Bacalhau (cod fish) plate with shrimp, potato and cream sauce; and Cozido À Portuguesa, a Portuguese boiled soup with different kinds of meats, sausages and vegetables, slow cooked until the flavor jumps out of the pot.

Other dishes to try include Petiscos, which are Portuguese “tapas.” While in Porto, I had dozens of different Petiscos. They were all tasty and featured ingredients such as shrimp, ham, cheese, pork, sausage, and lots of canned fish such as sardines, mackerel, tuna and more.

Fyllis Hockman — T-Boy writer:

China — Nope, for me, not a city — a country. In addition to just eating regularly while traveling around the country, we were lucky enough to experience a vast number of banquets, where massive amounts of food — all different — are served over hours on a table-size Lazy Susan — and God-forbid you should sip your beer a bit, it will be immediately filled to the brim — again and again…..

So yes, there were a number of foods I passed on such as worms, jellyfish and duck-foot webbing and I did put the fried bee I had picked up with my chopstick down fairly quickly. I just couldn’t imagine eating something with which I had just made eye contact.

But after 36 Chinese meals over our 12 days traveling, I arrived home wanting more Chinese food. But definitely not American Chinese food — which bears no resemblance.

James Boitano — T-Boy writer:

• Paris It’s hard to find a bad meal anywhere you go, given the high culinary standards the French demand. And in the unlikely event you grow tired of French food, Paris boasts restaurants featuring nearly every cuisine in the world.

Chloe Erskine — Educator:

• Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic — Had one of the best meals of my life there.
• Ilhabela, Brazil — An archipelago and city situated in the Atlantic Ocean four miles off the coast of São Paulo state in Brazil. The feijoada completa to die for, but the folx I was with were mostly cooking. A friend’s dad, who I stayed with, started Kinino Spice Company and he’s brilliant in the kitchen.

Brent Campbell — Musician and Composer:

As you can see by my list, I love red meat and classic steakhouses. In fact, I may be gone before you read this.

• New York — Delmonico’s, Sardis. Historic, Classic, old school.
• Chicago — Gene & Georgetti, another classic, exceptional service.
• Seattle — The Met, easily the best in Seattle.
• Atlanta — Bones Restaurant
• Portland — Ringside Steakhouse

However, my list of European selections is limited. That’s because whenever I have been either a vagabond hippie (wimpy, fish in newspaper, ham in a baguette, etc) or a dad with a hungry family in tow (local coupons or referrals, street food). Sadly, Mexico has usually been all inclusive. Nothing special there.

My real favorites have vanished in Seattle:

• Twin Teepees
• Clark’s, Dublin House, Red Carpet, et al — Almost affordable luxury.
• The original Black Angus on Elliott — A fine steak dinner with all the fixings for $3.49 before Stuart Anderson sold out.
• Frederick and Nelson’s lunch counter — Simply amazing!
• The Dog House — Last of the smoke filled, after hours joint.
• Blazes Broiler in Ballard — Eat a 64 oz steak and it’s free.
• Rossellini’s 4/10 — Get lucky on prom night.
• The Homestead — West Seattle, recently burned down. Seattle’s best fried chicken.
• Roses on Pacific Highway South — Western Washington’s best fried chicken, also burned down – who gave matches to the chickens?

A Seattle neighborhood called Magnolia (where I grew up with the one and only Ed Boitano):

• Gi Gi’s — A slightly, very slightly, upscale village cafe. I would go there to splurge while on break from the local gas station.
• Hickory Hut — A tiny cafe, but oh boy, Joe could flip a good burger.
• Magnolia Bowl — I would save two weeks allowance for a side of their sublime fries.
• I would be amiss to not mention Al’s Burgers on QA Avenue. Al’s tiny place (maybe where Betty’s is now) had the best burger secret sauce ever. I can almost taste it now.

Readers’ Poll

Charleston, South Carolina Charleston Culinary Tours offers the best of Charleston history, food, and drinks! — BB

Tenby and Swansea, Southwest Coast of Wales Welsh Rarebit, served with back bacon or tomatoes; cockles & mussel; Bara Brith, speckled bread; and laverbread — made of seaweed, described by Richard Burton as “Welshman’s caviar.” Best to enjoy while listening to a recording of Dylan Thomas’s poetry. — LF

The post T-Boy Society of Film and Music’s Favorite Food Destination Cities appeared first on Traveling Archive.

So, with Canada Day just passing our door, we thought this would be an appropriate time to ask a group of our illustrate Canadian friends, all connected to the world of travel, one question: Who is their favorite Prime Minister? It proved to be a good pathway for the beginning of dialogue between our nations. As can be expected their answers were both thoughtful and astute. And, to quote Canadian writer Will Ferguson in his affectionate, humorous book, “Why I Hate Canadians” — Why are they so damn nice?

The List: Canadians on their Favourite Prime Ministers

All are all flawed and none have a perfect record of victories but they worked conscientiously and for the people. — WC, British Columbia

1. Mackenzie King

William Lyon Mackenzie King OM CMG PC (December 1874 — July 1950) was the dominant Canadian political leader from the 1920s through the 1940s. He served as the tenth Prime Minister of Canada in 1921–1926, 1926–1930 and 1935–1948. He is best known for his leadership of Canada throughout the Second World War when he mobilized Canadian money, supplies and volunteers to support Britain while boosting the economy and maintaining morale on the home front.

“First of all he was named after a true rebel who fought the ruling classes in the mid 1800’s. William Lyon Makenzie was a hot headed Irish immigrant who really up-ended the political power structure of the day as well as being a newspaper publisher here in Niagara, Ontario. King was his grandson. He must have been good — he got elected 3 different times and was the PM during the Second World War. All that and he had almost no personality. He was described as ‘cold and tactless’ with few personal friends and never married. But he lead his party for 29 years in an effort to create ‘social harmony’ in Canada so he was obviously politically astute. However his enduring personal quality was a spiritualist who kept in touch with his deceased mother. Now that is unique!” — TC, Ontario

“Mackenzie King kept our little population country together at crisis. He was at the table with American President Roosevelt and Winston Churchill at Le Frontenac (Le Château Frontenac, historic hotel in Québec City) as a equal in planning Normandy attack that made us proud. We did not let them down with a victory at Juno.” — JPD, Québec

2. Lester B. Pearson

Lester Bowles Pearson PC OM CC OBE (April 1897 — December 1972) was a Canadian scholar, statesman, soldier, prime minister, and diplomat, who won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1957 for organizing the United Nations Emergency Force to resolve the Suez Canal Crisis. He was the 14th Prime Minister of Canada from 1963 to 1968, as the head of two back-to-back Liberal minority governments following elections in 1963 and 1965.

“Pearson introduced universal healthcare, the Canada Student Loan Program, the Canada Pension Plan, the Order of Canada, our now well recognized Maple Leaf Flag.” — WC, British Columbia

“Lester Pearson was the complete package and cared deeply for the betterment of all Canadians regardless of race, religion and social class. His liberal reforms were a shining star for those who suffered from poverty and hunger with nowhere else to turn. My elderly parents were a living example of that. And for that alone, he will always be my favourite PM.” — NM, Nova Scotia

3. Pierre Elliott Trudeau

Joseph Philippe Pierre Yves Elliott Trudeau PC CC CH QC FRSC (October 1919 – September 2000) was a prominent lawyer, intellectual, activist in Québec politics and 15th Prime Minister of Canada and leader of the Liberal Party of Canada, between 1968 and 1984. Trudeau’s outgoing personality caused a media sensation, inspiring “Trudeaumania,” and helped him to win the leadership of the Liberal Party in 1968, when he was appointed prime minister of Canada.

“Pierre Trudeau was chiefly concerned with maintaining the unity of Canada and ensuring good relations between English and French Canadians. Trudeau — a determined anti-separatist — helped defeat the French separatist movement. In 1980 Trudeau began work on plans to reform Canada’s constitution. The resulting Constitution Act of 1982 remains in place.” — GB, Ontario

“Trudeau was hip and popular (as well as unpopular) and he cared. He was a political rock star. He used the F-word, put up his middle finger 🖕🏽 and called Reagan a two bit pipsqueak. He did not like Reagan. Reagan fell asleep at meetings.” — WC, British Columbia

4. Justin Trudeau

Justin Pierre James Trudeau PC MP (born December 25, 1971) is a Canadian politician who has served as the 23rd Prime Minister of Canada since 2015 and has been the leader of the Liberal Party since 2013.Son of Pierre Elliott Trudeau, his experiences as a teacher, father, and advocate for youth have shaped his dedication to Canadians — and his commitment to make Canada a place where everyone has the opportunities they need to thrive.

“For your question, I would have to say my favourite Prime Minister is our current one, PM Justin Trudeau. I think he’s done a fantastic job through this crisis and has made young people interested in politics again.” — LF, Manitoba

“Justin Trudeau has brought vision and vigour to Canada in a changing world. His June speech honouring Nelson Mandela says it all, ‘As we reflect upon the legacy of Nelson Mandela, we are reminded of the power of individuals to bring about change, and the responsibility we all share to make the world a better place.'” — JS, Ontario

5. Kim Campbell

Avril Phaedra Douglas “Kim” Campbell PC CC OBC QC (born March 10, 1947) is a Canadian politician, diplomat, lawyer and writer who served as the 19th Prime Minister of Canada from June 25, 1993, to November 4, 1993. Campbell is the first and only woman to hold the position. She was also the first baby boomer to hold that office, and the only Prime Minister born in British Columbia.

“Well, Kim Campbell wasn’t in long but we finally had a female Prime Minister. That’s a point of pride for us. Plus, I’m a tad biased as she was from my home province of British Columbia.” — SM, British Columbia

“Probably not my favourite Prime Minister, but Kim Campbell was important for showing women that anything is possible. I believe she remains active today in the same cause.” — KA, British Columbia

Thank you all, Canada, for your illuminating comments and participation in our poll. Our lonely and polarizing eyes look to you for guidance. Soon, I pray, that North America will be united as we fight this savage pandemic together. And let’s keep the dialogue going; we can learn much from each other. Readers are welcome to reply with their own comments, which will be published in our next article. If you are so inclined, contact our editor:

**@Tr**********.com











. — Traveling Boy

Epilouge: C-19 Pandemic in Canada.

Canada has its hotspots — Toronto and Montreal, secondary Calgary and Vancouver. But, those were the 4 designated cities where international flights could enter the country until nearly the end of March, so it stands to reason they had travel-related infections at the beginning which mushroomed in to community and work place spread. Here in Manitoba we have had a total of 322 cases, 300 recovered, 22 active (none in hospital) and, thankfully, only 7 deaths and none since April. Our population is only 1.3 million, but still pretty impressive stats. Our provincial government locked down early and was very careful with the phases of re-opening. We’re now in Phase 3 with most things open, amateur sports back on, restaurants at 50%. Basically just movie theatres, concert and professional sports venues are still closed.

We watch in horror as the virus explodes in the US. I must admit I can’t even watch the news anymore as the numbers are just too depressing, the ignorance too upsetting. If I hear “Wearing a mask is against my civil rights” one more time…..!” I guess those same idiots don’t wear seat belts, either?

— LF, Manitoba

C-19 Pandemic in the U.S.

My wife and I had planned a day of fun for U.S. Independence Day at Malibu’s Zuma Beach, but found it was closed along with all other L.A. County beaches. Not a problem, we understand the theme of taking a couple steps backwards in a united front to defeat the deadly C-19 pandemic.  Yes, the arrow’s shooting straight up in the states. Nevertheless my family is fine, but worry about my wife as a frontline worker who seems to be almost exclusively helping entire families inflicted due to gatherings.   Mask shaming is a thing of the past. Some bad citizens are actually verbally attacking those wearing masks, even throwing items at shop and restaurant employees who won’t admit these self-absorbed people for not wearing them. Like California’s rage driving laws, we are told to just ignore any form of confrontation. As the French say, “What can you do if a jackass kicks you?” We hope and pray that our bad citizens come to terms with this crisis, and realize that they and the Executive Office, who considers the pandemic a mere afterthought, are the problem. Together, standing united, we can fix it.

My wife’s ancestral home county of Yakima, Washington (pop. 251,000) is off the charts with more cases by numbers than Seattle’s King County (2,25 million).  Fortunately the state government is cracking down, instructed to issue fines for not wearing masks in public places, and steeper ones for businesses who allow them in. Time will tell if this form of hard love will be effective.

We remind ourselves that Covid-19 Direct Relief,  addresses the courage of health workers on the front lines, honoring them with meaningful support, and the people most at risk in this pandemic are cared for — regardless of politics, religion, or ability to pay.

DONATE to DIRECT RELIEF

— EB, California

Postscript: Covid News from Manitoba

Manitoba had its 13^th straight day with no new cases (as of June 12). Total cases 325, recovered 314, hospitalized 0, deaths 7. I’m kind of anticipating a small spike now that we’re well into Phase 3 with small gatherings allowed, minor sports back in action and visitors travelling in the western Canada/NW Ontario bubble. Our truckers are still crossing the border for essential supplies, so the drivers are at risk of infection. But, we have to keep essentials coming in. Hopefully the drivers can stay healthy. — LF, Manitoba

CANADA / USA Relationship open letter from Florida

US Judge Praises Canada: As The Best Neighbour America Has In The Whole World!

This is an open letter written by a Florida judge about the CANADA / USA relationships & history.

Robert Meadows (Circuit Court Judge, Florida) wrote:

Here is one American’s take on the growing trade war with the US and Canada.

“Have you ever stopped to consider how lucky we Americans are to have the neighbors we have? Look around the globe at who some folks have been stuck sharing a border with over the past half century:

North Korea / South Korea

Greece / Turkey

Iran / Iraq

Israel / Palestine

India / Pakistan

China / Russia

We’ve got Canada! Canada. About as inoffensive a neighbor as you could ever hope for. In spite of all our boasts of “American exceptionalism” and chants of “America first,” they just smile, do their thing and go about their business. They are on average more educated, have a higher standard of living, free health care, and almost no gun problems. They treat immigrants respectfully and already took in over 35,000 Syrians in the last two years.

They’re with us in NATO, they fought alongside us in World War I, World War II, Korea, the Gulf War, the Bosnian War, Afghanistan, the Kosovo War and came to our defense after 9/11. There was that one time when Canada took a pass on one of our wars: Vietnam. Turned out to be a good call.

They’ve been steady consumers of American imports, reliable exporters of metals and petroleum products (they are the biggest importer of U.S. products from 37 states), and partnered with NASA in our space missions.

During 9/11 many aircraft were diverted to Newfoundland, an island province off Canada’s east coast where Americans were housed in people’s homes for two weeks and treated like royalty. In return for their hospitality, this administration slapped a 20% tariff on the products of Newfoundland’s only paper mill, thereby threatening its survival.

And what do Canadians expect of us in return? To be respected for who and what they are: Canadians. That’s what I call a good neighbor.

But the King of Chaos couldn’t leave well enough alone. Based on his delusions of perpetual victimhood, out of the clear blue, he’s declared economic war on Canada. On CANADA! And he did it based on Canada being a national security risk to the US! For no good reason, other than the voices in his head that told him it was a war he could win. So why not do it, then?

Again, we’re talking about Canada. Our closest ally, friend and neighbor.

On behalf of an embarrassed nation, people of Canada, I apologize for this idiotic and wholly unnecessary attack. Please leave the back channels open. We the People of progressive persuasion stand with you.

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